“We will give the names
of our fearless race
To each bright river whose course we trace;
And will leave our mem’ry with mounts and floods.
And the park of our daring in boundless woods;
And our works unto many a lake’s green shore,
Where the Indians’ graves lay alone before.”
—Mrs Hemans.
IT is hardly possible
to believe that only thirty-five years ago this part of Muskoka w as
almost an unknown country. I have just been reading a little pamphlet
published a few.’months ago by Mr. A. P. Cockburn, who may rightly be
called the lather of the Muskoka Navigation Company. In it he says that
in 1865 none of this region had even been surveyed by the Government.
The first work of any importance done here was the construction of the
locks at Port Carling, which connected Muskoka Lake with Rosseau. This
was followed by the canal being cut and bridged at Port Sandfield,
connecting Lake Joseph with Rosseau, thus completing the direct route
from Gravenhurst to Port Cockburn. The first boat on Lake Muskoka was
the Wenonah, launched at Gravenhurst in June of 1866. The old Nipissing
followed in 1871—this is the boat which was burnt in 1885.
At the time my father started for Muskoka, May 1873, the Northern
Railway ran no farther than Wash ago. Thence our travellers had to go by
stage to Gravenhurst, a long drive and over very rough roads, so that
they were thankful to see Lake Muskoka and the welcome steamboat
awaiting them. They came on this as far as Port Carling, on the Indian
River, and from here they had to trust to their own devices for further
progress. Mr. Roberts had. however, given them some pointers before
leaving Toronto, and as there were a few English settlers already in
this neighbourhood, they were fortunate enough to obtain accommodation
for the night, and a rowboat in the morning with which to proceed to
their destination; they also received numberless instructions as to the
route. “Dale End” was the name of Mr. Barton's place; it might have been
the “world’s end” from the distance it seemed to the occupants of the
boat before they reached it. They had been directed to go up the Joseph
River into Lake Joseph, the distance being considerably shorter, but as
they rounded point after point, passed island after island, the course
became almost bewildering, and they were nearly giving themselves up for
lost.
It was a lovely day, Nature just bursting forth in all her spring
beauty—the water sparkling in the sunshine. the woods with the vivid
tints of the fresh young leaves contrasting with the sombre hues of the
hemlocks and pines. The Joseph River struck them as being particularly
beautiful; indeed, I think many of my readers who are familiar with
these lakes will beat me out in saying that on a calm summer evening the
reflections on this river are quite equal to those on the far-famed
Shadow River at Rosseau.
My father was delighted with the scenery, and then and there fell “head
over heels,” as you may say, in love with Muskoka. This love never
changed through all the labor, care and troubles of the succeeding
years, it only grew stronger as long as his life lasted. They found near
the passage from the river into Lake Joseph a very narrow channel; only
by pushing on the rocks with their hands could they get the boat through
at all. These rocks have since been blasted out and the passage made
more navigable.
It was late in the afternoon when our travellers arrived at their
destination. The first glimpse of “Dale End” pleased them, for it was a
better house than some they had seen at Port Carling ; indeed at that
time it had the reputation of being quite a fine house. It possessed a
bedroom, divided from the living room, and also a big loft overhead, to
which you climbed by a ladder. Then there was a shed— one could hardly
dignify it by the name of barn—a good-sized clearing, and an attempt at
a garden.
On entering the house they found that it contained a rusty
cooking-stove, a rough table or two, and some chairs; in the other room,
a home-made bedstead and mattress. These. with a few kitchen utensils,
completed the furniture.
The house stood not many yards from the lake, so they soon hauled up
their little stock of provisions, bedding, and sundries from the boat
and proceeded to make themselves at home. They lit a fire and made some
tea, after which refreshment they went outside again to view’ their
surroundings. So far as my father could judge, the place fully realized
his expectations, so, after exploring in various directions until night
came on, they returned to the house, made up their bed, and retired to
rest in quite a happy frame of mind.
Next morning they were up bright and early, and ready to start work, for
father was anxious to get some seeds in the ground as soon as possible.
Things did not go so badly with them at first; it was toward the end of
the month, and after there had been a few hot days, their troubles
began, for the mosquitoes arrived in force. Oh! the mosquitoes in those
days ! We think them bad at certain times of the year now, but if we
listen to the stories of some of the old settlers we shall soon discover
they were a hundred times worse then. Of course, my father and poor
little Ber were new arrivals, too, and in that fact lies the road to the
special favor and attentions of these bloodthirsty hordes.
They dote on fresh blood. They attack every stranger with a most lively
zest, and “forsaking all others, cling only unto him" with a most
exasperating tenacity. In vain did father and Ben make use of every
known remedy. They nearly blinded themselves with “smudges.” They
anointed themselves all over with pork fat and carbolic, till between
the smoke and the grease they looked like nothing else so much as a
couple of “Yarmouth bloaters.” They tried sleeping in the loft, then out
on the lake in the boat, then under the boat on the shore, all to no
purpose. The pesky things continued to draw their life blood at a most
alarming rate ; even when eating their meals the smudge pot had to be
smoking under the table, or the enemy would have been so aggressive they
would never have been able to eat.
One morning, early, my father had to row to Port Carling, which was the
nearest post office. He had written bis letters the evening before, and
as soon as breakfast was over he made a start. An hour or two later,
Benny, who was at work in the field, saw' father madly rushing across
the clearing to the house, a cloud of mosquitoes in his wake. Ben, quite
alarmed, ran to see what had happened. He found poor Dad, quite
exhausted, wiping the perspiration from his face, which was covered with
inflamed knobs as big as marbles, and gave him a somewhat comical
appearance. “My eyes, sir!” he broke out (this is an old English
expression, and a favorite expletive of my father’s when at all
excited), “I’ve had a fearful fight! The mosquitoes wouldn’t let me go
to the post. I did my best, and got as far as the river, but there they
met me in swarms, and, though I made a dead stand at first, lai l down
my oars and fairly fought them, it was no good; the minute I took hold
of the oars again they made another set on me, and at last I had to give
in and come back as soon as I could. Never saw anything like it. They
followed me all the way home!” I think this adventure was the climax.
Perhaps this victory satisfied them for awhile ; anyway, to the great
relief of father and Ben, a strong breeze sprang up, the weather got
cooler, and the mosquitoes took a rest.
Now a word or two about the fare which these pioneers enjoyed. There was
certainly not much variety about it. They had some salt pork, and father
baked bread; then they had all the fish they could catch, and soon
became quite expert fishermen. This was the evening amusement for them
both. And you all know the taste of Muskoka bass; “it can’t be beat.”
The only difficulty was the bait. It was much easier in those days to
catch the fish than to catch the worm. Every worm meant a fish, so they
were valuable and, like other valuables, extremely scarce; but there
were minnows to be had, and these served their purpose, or sometimes
they tried a strip of fat pork. Then, several times during the summer,
we sent up a box from Toronto stuffed full of groceries and provisions
of various kinds. We found we had to be careful what we put in the box,
though, for there was no “Muskoka Express” in those days to bring you
fruit gathered in Toronto in the morning and other dainties in time for
your six o’clock tea, No 1 the box was often a week on its way, and I
have a letter by me now from my father, written about this time, in
which he says, “The box arrived on Monday, but it had been so long on
the way that the meat had gone bad, and all the other things spoilt in
consequence. Ben almost cried over the big plum cake, it smelled so bad.
He is baking it anew in the sun to see if it will sweeten it. We have
spread out the tea, too, and hope we may be able to use it.”
We felt as sorry as they did when we got this letter, for we knew what a
disappointment it would be to them, poor things, living on such hard
fare, but it made us more careful for the future.
My lather worked hard during this summer. At times he hired one of the
settlers for a few days to help him, and before he came down to Toronto
in the fall he made arrangements to have the five acres chopped, ready
for clearing up in the spring. He had also decided on certain lots, not
far distant, which he meant to apply for to the government grant agency,
when he returned to Toronto. He was very anxious mother should pay him a
visit and see the spot he had chosen, but this pleasure had to be
deferred until the following spring. He returned to Toronto about the
end of September with Ben, who had grown so tall and looked so well
mother could do nothing the first evening but feast her eyes on his dear
face. My father, too, was looking first-rate. We all were delighted to
have them back, and I think the tongues of the Hathaways never wagged
faster than they did that night. How interested we all were in
everything that had befallen them. We could not ask enough questions
about this lovely Muskoka, and all looked forward with longing eyes to
the day when we should see it for ourselves.
We had also many things of interest to tell father. One very important
piece of information was whispered blushingly into his ear that first
night—“Bet was engaged.” Her sweetheart (the young Englishman I told you
of) was very anxious, too. that the wedding should be soon. He wanted to
have it at Christmas. We girls, of course, were very much interested, as
this would be the first marriage in the family. We ail felt it was the
right thing that Bet’s should be first; “wasn’t she always first in
everything?” And so, with my father’s and mother’s consent, Christmas
Eve was fixed upon as the happy day, and preparations began in earnest.
We made all the modest trousseau ourselves except the wedding dress; we
were rather scared of tackling that, so entrusted it to a dressmaker. We
all had a hand, I think, in concocting the wedding cake. I know I did
the decorative part, and very handsome we all thought it looked when
finished. Sue and Winnie were the bridesmaids. I think we fixed upon
Christmas Eve for the wedding because all the students who were boarding
with us would be gone, and also Mr. Baylis would have some holidays ami
be able to take Bet away for a few days. The wedding was quiet, but
pretty, and took place in the parlor, which at that time seemed very
strange to our English ideas. The only contretemps occurred towards the
end of the ceremony.
Winnie, it appears, had been teasing the bridegroom for some days
beforehand by boasting of her determination to secure the first kiss
from the bride. He was equally as determined that prize should be his
own, so they were both watching for the first chance, and, being a
little too eager, when the clergyman made a slight pause in the service,
thinking he had concluded, they fell simultaneously upon the bride’s
neck. We never knew which was first, both positively claiming the
victory, but the minister put an end to the dispute by saying with a
very grave face, “Pardon me, my friends, but if you will kindly allow me
to complete the ceremony first you can then perform the kissing.”
We were slightly abashed, and Winnie was afterwards called out of the
room by mother and told that her “conduct was simply disgraceful”; but
scoldings had no more effect on Miss Winnie than water on a duck’s back.
After the wedding breakfast —or rather supper—the happy pair took their
departure, first to Hamilton and then Niagara, but they were to return
before January nth, as that would be our mother’s and father’s silver
wedding day and we were to have a party.
The students were back again, and the bride appeared in her
wedding-dress. We demolished the rest of the wedding cake and drank to
the health of the “two bridal couples,” as we persisted in calling them,
everybody assuring dear mother she looked nearly as young as her
daughter. We finished off with “Sir Roger de Coverly” in grand style.
And so ended our wedding festivities, and we returned to the prose of
everyday life. Bet’s new home was not far away, and we went often to see
her, and she came to our assistance when there was any extra work on
hand.
I forget whether I told you Ben started to go to school again in the
fall, and was working hard to make an extra good showing in the spring,
so that there might be no excuse to prevent him returning to Muskoka
with father. However, as soon as navigation opened father went alone,
and Ben was comforted by the promise of being mother’s escort a month
later, when she was to pay her first visit to her future home. Bet
offered to come and stay with is while mother was away, and we were by
no means dull, I can assure you.
We did one daring deed during her absence, Miss Winnie being the prime
instigator. Mother had an occasional boarder, an actor, who had given
her a lot of trouble, for she could never get any money from him and he
would return time after time, whenever he was acting in Toronto, and,
with the greatest assurance in the world, bamboozle my good-natured
mother in a kind of free and easy style into once more taking him in. He
always contrived to get the best of everything going and was a natural
dead-beat.
Well, it happened one day during mother’s absence the boarders had
finished dinner, and we girls were just sitting down to finish what they
had left, when in stalked this Mr. Orlando Hawkins, with two fellow
actors, and, proceeding straight upstairs to the room which he generally
occupied, sent word down by one of the other boarders ordering “dinner
at once for himself and two friends,” Now this seemed carrying things in
rather too high-handed a way, and raised our ire, for he already owed us
over fifty dollars, which we felt sure we should never get; so we held a
hurried consultation and came to the decision that now was the time to
do the deed—we had the reins of government in our own hands, and we
would give this gentleman his walking ticket. We sent Bet upstairs as
spokeswoman, she being the most valiant, and she scored a victory after
a short but severe combat.
Winnie and I, peeping from the lower windows, saw to our delight the
trio departing, bag and baggage, in high dudgeon, shaking the very dust
from their feet with indignation.
“Bless you, Bet! forever bless you!” cried Winnie, throwing her arms
around Bet’s neck, as she came downstairs, “You have done a brave deed
this day, have routed the enemy from his stronghold, and it shall be
recorded in future history to your worthy praise.” Well, here’s the
record, anyway, so her words have come true.
Before I close this chapter I must tell you that mother returned from
her visit to Muskoka more than delighted with all she had seen. She
preferred the position of father’s land to that of Dale End; it lay
surrounding a beautiful bay, gently sloping to the edge of the lake. She
never tired of describing it to us, our home of the future, “Hathaway’s
Bay.” |