“Ontario, Ontario,
Thy water rolls as blue
As in the flays thy bosom bore
The Indian’s birch canoe.”
Anon.
JUTTING out into the
blue waters of Lake Ontario is a sunny, fruitful “half-island"—to use
the Nova Scotian phrase—which by cool breezes, excellent roads, and fine
fishing attracts numerous summer visitors and pleasure-seekers. But,
better than that, with its fertile fields, its rich orchards, and its
sleek, well-nourished herds of cattle, it might seem that it had become
a little paradise for the farmers were it not that it is so hard for
them to obtain a sufficient number of men to carry on the "intensive”
methods of cultivation now so much in favour in the district. With all
but a small fraction of its area rated as arable land, with no great
towns, but with several thriving smaller centres of population, it is
emphatically a farmers’ county. Of the hundred automobiles owned in
Prince Edward County, fifty belong to farmers. Of the several hundred
motor-boats that give life to its many bays and inlets, farmers possess
two hundred, whilst a large proportion of the twelve hundred telephones
of the county serve the rural population. Moreover, in Prince Edward,
the plan of rural mail delivery has passed the experimental stage, and
there are nine rural mail routes, with 450 boxes.
Originally connected
with the mainland at the old Indian “Carrying- Place” by a narrow
isthmus, the county has been made into a second Prince Edward “island”
(in many respects resembling its larger namesake in the Atlantic), by
the cutting of the Murray Canal, five miles in length and deep enough to
allow the passage of large boats. But, as if to make up for this
interference with nature's plans, a bridge gives connection with
Belleville. Without this, however, the county would be by no means
devoid of easy communication with its neighbours, for no part of it is
over six miles from navigable water, and several lines of steamboats ply
from its ports to those of the mainland.
This pleasant farmers’
county, called “Presqu’ Isle de Ouinte by the French, now bears a
royal name. About the time of the division of Upper from Lower Canada,
the Duke of Kent, on his return from a journey to Niagara, called at
Marysburg, and in memory of that brief visit the county received its
name of Prince Edward. Of the numerous sons of George III, Edward was
the most popular. In many relations of life he is said to have been
kind, courteous, and gracious, but, as a soldier, his notions of
necessary discipline led him into harshness and severity. He had no
special opportunity to win distinction, and much of the posthumous
interest in his character has arisen from the fact that he was the
father of the future Queen Victoria, though she was but an infant when
he died.
The three original
townships of the county, afterwards subdivided to make seven, were named
after the Prince’s sisters, Mary, Sophia, and Amelia. The latter was the
youngest child of King George, and was described by her eldest sister as
“a sweet, amiable, pious, good little soul, patient (during a long
illness) beyond all description.” Another writer (quoted in Mr.
Gardiner's Nothing but Names) says!: ‘‘Amelia! Everyone who has read
Thackeray remembers her-—the pretty little maiden, prattling and smiling
in the arms of the fond old King, her father—and then her death in the
bloom of womanhood and the shock to the father’s reason.”
It is said that Prince
Edward County, or part of it, was included in the seigniory granted to
La Salle. In the middle of the eighteenth century, Indians of different
tribes were scattered along the shores from Gananoque to the Bay of
Quinte, but they relinquished their claim to most of the land in
consideration of the promise of an annual payment to each brave of two
blankets, cloth for a coat, a gun and some other articles. To receive
these things they used to go in their canoes to Fort Froutenac, and
sometimes as many as a thousand men were afloat at one time on the bay.
Many years later, the small island called Waupoos, about a mile from the
coast of Prince Edward, was still the home of an Indian chief.
The settlement of
Prince Edward County was begun by the Loyalists, many of whom were
officers or soldiers. A number of Hessians settled in Marysburg, but the
first house in the township was built by a Scot, Colonel Archibald
Macdonald. This building, erected by ships’ carpenters instead of
amateur joiners, was not of the usual pattern. The walls were built of
hewn logs, nicely squared and dove-tailed at the corners. It stood for
over a century, but was torn down in 1900.
Colonel Macdonald never
married, but his niece, Frances, who kept house for him, married a
French gentleman, Mr. Prinyer, and her descendants preserve as heirlooms
the old “grandfather’s clock,” the despatch box, and mahogany chairs,
desk, and table brought out by the Colonel from Scotland.
It is told in a paper
read to the Women's Historical Society of Ottawa how during the War of
1812 a party of Americans landed at Macdonald’s Cove, intending to carry
off the master of the old house, for colonels were esteemed "big game.”
But Macdonald was too “canny” for them. Knowing the Americans’ dread of
the Indians, he placed two or three men in the woods to whoop and yell
like savages, then sent his nephew to demand the surrender of the
interlopers, with the suggestion that otherwise their scalps might soon
be adorning the belts of the ambushed warriors. In terror of such a fate
his would-be captors surrendered, and were imprisoned in a blockhouse
near the Colonel’s dwelling till he could find opportunity to send them
to Kingston.
No land was taken up in
Sophiaburgh till 1788, when it was settled by Loyalists, who had
previously spent a few years in Nova Scotia or in the neighbouring
township of Adolphustown, or were "late Loyalists," who before leaving
their native land had tried the uncomfortable experiment of remaining
there under the new Government. These did not receive grants on the same
terms as the original Loyalists, but were able to buy lands at very
small cost. For instance, one of the best farms in Sophiasburgh, valued
a few years ago at seven or eight thousand dollars, was then purchased
for an old horse.
The first man to set
foot on the site of Picton (of which there is a most picturesque view
from the water between the lofty shores of the bay) was Colonel Henry
Young, with his two sons. That was in the year 1784, when a dense forest
covered the spot; but it was over thirty years later when Mr. McAuley,
the minister and builder of the first church in the settlement, bestowed
upon it the name of Picton, in honour of a general who had fallen in the
battle of Waterloo. The name did not appeal to everyone, and for some
time the village to the south of the bay clung to its designation of
Halliwell, still perpetuated in the name of the township. As early as
1798, by the way, “the town meeting” of HalliwelJ had shown its iuterest
in agricultural matters by passing by-laws about fences, and ordering
that any freeholder suffering "the Canadian thistle,” that bugbear of
careful farmers in our own day, to go to seed on his premises should be
fined twenty shillings.
For years the growth
and progress of Picton was very slow, but 1830 saw the first issue of
The Halliwell Free Press, and the formation of a company to run a
steamer between Picton and Prescott. In the following year Prince Edward
became a separate county, and a courthouse and jail were added to the
buildings of Picton, which now has a population of about 4000 souls.
Ten miles away in a
northerly direction is the village of Demorestville, near which was
built “the first canning factory in Canada.” Ten miles southward of the
county town are "the far-famed sandbanks,” or hills of white, shifting
sand, which stretch for four and a half miles along the shore of^West
Lake, and five miles to the east is the curious, clear, circular
“Lake-on-the-Mountain,” 200 feet above the little village of Glenora.
From this lake water was brought down the hill in iron pipes to turn the
wheels of a grist mill which was once rented by the father of John A.
Macdonald, then a lively little lad. |