“Down by the river our
log hut stands,
Where father and mother dwelt;
And the old door-latch that was worn by our hands,
And the church where in prayer we knelt.”
Old Song.
IT has been quaintly
said that the “dawn of civilisation" in Middlesex County first appeared
in the township of Delaware, and here we also find a trace, but only a
trace, of the pioneer Highlander of the county, Ronald M'Donald, who in
1798 obtained a patent of the land on which Delaware village stands, but
soon after sold out to Dr. Oliver Tiffany. It was, however, twenty years
later that there began the great Highland immigration, lasting (save for
a short break) for something like thirty years, and giving almost every
township a greater or less number of immigrants from the northern
counties and western isles of Scotland.
These settlers were of
a notably fine order, tall, strong, and sturdy in physique, and
possessing solid mental qualifies, enlivened by the imaginative fire and
poetry of the Celt. As to their moral qualities, honesty, earnestness,
hospitality, and a strong sense of the unseen seem to belong to the
type, and if, like other folk, they had their faults, these were often
“the defects of their qualities." It is somewhat strange that these
immigrants— most of them poor—should have set an unusually nigh value on
education; but it was so, and the little log schoolhouses were amongst
the earliest buildings in the new' settlements. Often the pupils could
at first speak no language save Gaelic, but they speedily acquired
English, and soon a surprisingly large number of teachers, ministers,
and other professional men looked back to these little country schools
as the scenes of their first triumphs in life and "book-learning.”
The majority of the
Gaelic pointers of Middlesex were Presbyterians, and often they mei
together for worship, to read “the Book” and sing their Gaelic versions
of the Psalms, without waiting for the visit of missionary or minister.
Until the Rebellion of 1837 and the gradual multiplication of
newspapers, tlie Highlanders were slow to take an interest in politics.
Some notable men are
connected with the early history of Middlesex. First and foremost must
be mentioned Governor Simcoe, who from careful study of maps and
accounts of the country had concluded that the forks of "La Tranche"
which he named the Thames would be the best situation for the capital of
Upper Canada.
In February, 1793, he
undertook an arduous journey across the peninsula from Newark to Detroit
to investigate the matter for himself. Taking five or six officers, a
dozen soldiers, and twenty Indians as guides, the Governor travelled on
foot most of the way, a journey of about 400 miles, but, as it was a
“service of no danger” and likely to “afford him amusement,” his wife
was “quite easy about it”; in fact, she thought the excursion would
improve his health. On his departure “the Governor wore a fur cap,
tippet and gloves and moccasins, but no greatcoat. His servant carried
two blankets and linen. The other gentlemen carried their blankets in a
pack on their backs.” The party was accompanied by a Newfoundland dog,
Jack Sharp, which got into sad trouble with a porcupine, probably one of
those which made a woodsman’s feast for the Governor and his suite,
tasting u like pork.” At Detroit, "all his Majesty’s ships lying there”
fired a salute on Simcoe’s departure. On a Sunday "his Excellency
ordered prayers to be read in the woods . . . and forty people
attended.”
"The Governor rose
early on the march and walked till five o’clock. A party of the Indians
went on an hour before”—I quote from Mrs. Simcoe’s recently published
Diary—“to cut down wood for a fire and make huts of trees, which they
cover with bark so dexterously that no rain can penetrate, and this they
do very expeditiously.” When the Governor came to the spot the Indians
bad fixed upon a spot to lodge for the night, and the provisions were
cooked. “After supper the officers sang ‘God Save the King,’ and went to
sleep with their feet close to an immense fire, which was kept up all
night.” On the outward journey the party passed through the (future)
townships of Delaware and Westminster, and, returning, spent a March day
at the spot which Simcoe thought “eminently calculated for the
metropolis of all Canada.” During the night it rained incessantly, and
the travellers found that the hemlock boughs which served for beds had
been wet when gathered, but such trifles did not chill the Governor’s
enthusiasm for the situation.
He thought of naming
the future city, in compliment to his Sovereign,
“Georgina-on-the-Thames,” but ultimately pitched, instead, on the
briefer, and already famous, name of London. Though circumstances forced
him to make York his headquarters, he regarded the necessity as only
temporary, but the Governor-General, Lord Dorchester, was of another
mind, and Simcoe’s wishes were overruled. He had, however, had a
town-site surveyed, and in consequence, while the land all around London
was being taken up, the beautiful park-like spot where Simcoe had set
apart for his city “remained in primeval beauty.” George Heriot, writing
about 1807, mentioned that there were several “ rich settlements ” along
the banks of the Thames, and that “new establishments” were “every week
added to this as well as to other parts of the neighbouring country by
the immigration of wealthy tanners from the United States.”
It is told also in some
of the Ontario Historical Society papers that Governor Simcoe promised a
grant of two thousand acres to a certain B. Allen, on condition that he
should erect a grist-mill in Delaware. He began, accordingly, in 1799,
to build a mill on Dingman’s Creek, but before it was finished “ had to
go to jail for counterfeiting." About that time the post-office at
Delaware was the only one between Newark and Detroit. Sir George
Drummond established a military post at this village, and from it, on
March 3, 1814, “a sortie of 240 men, under Captain Basden, was made
against a United States post at Longwoods.” This was not captured, but
soon afterwards the Americans retreated to Detroit.
About 1816 one John
Applegarth began cultivating hemp on a ridge east of what is now Mount
Pleasant Cemetery, but, being somewhat unsuccessful, soon went
elsewhere, leaving his log cabin to squatters. There was as yet no
bridge over the river, but a canoe ferry afforded some means of
communication between the opposite banks. In 1817 Gourlay estimated that
there were nearly 9000 settlers in the London district, of which the
official centre was the inconsiderable hamlet of Vittoria. This was
fifty miles, as the crow flies, from the forks of the Thames; and when
the court-house there chanced to be burnt, the people of Middlesex began
a vigorous agitation for the removal of “the headquarters of the
district to a more convenient locality.”
The agitation was
successful, and early in 1826 the Provincial Parliament authorised a
second survey of London and appointed five commissioners to erect a
court-house. Three of these were II011. Thomas Talbot (founder of the
Talbot Settlement), Mahlon Burwell, after whom Port Burwell was named,
and Charles Ingersoll, who gave his name to the town in Oxford County.
Talbot, particularly, had much to dc with the settlement of London. The
incoming people were required to pay the equivalent of $32 for the
patent of each lot, and to erect some kind of a house, 24 feet by 18
feet in dimensions, upon it. A Scotch tailor, Peter MacGregor, built the
first house in London, on King Street, where the Grand Central Hotel now
stands. It was a mere shanty, but served as an hotel. When the courts
were first held in London, MacGregor had to turn away many guests, who
were obliged to go three miles further before they could obtain shelter.
The "first native-born
Londoner,” Nathaniel Yerex, “saw the light of day in 1826.” By the
following year thirty-three families, numbering, all told, 133 souls,
had settled in the place. The first Court of Quarter Sessions was held
011 January 9, 1827, in a temporary building, afterwards used for a
school; and one of the first trials was that of a murderer, who had
slain a sheriff’s officer and, being found guilty, was hanged three days
after sentence was pronounced. Thus, the beginnings of London, as it has
been said, “centred in a tavern, a jail, and a post-office.” The latter
was opened as soon as the work began of building the court-house, which
was designed, on an imposing scale, in the Gothic style.
At first London grew
slowly; and in 1845 a terrible fire destroyed no less than 150 of its
buildings, causing a loss which, for so small a place, was enormous. Now
the city covers some 4500 acres instead of its original 240 (of which,
by the way, the estimated value is something like thirty million
dollars), and the 133 people of its second year have now increased to
over 46,000. |