“The lochs and lakes of
other lands,
Like gems may grace a landscape painting,...
But ours is deep, and broad, and wide,
With steamships thro’ its waves careering,
And far upon its ample tide
The bark its devious course is steeling,
Whilst hoarse and loud the billows break
On islands in our own broad lake!”
Thomas M'Queen.
THE Huron County seal
is dated 1841, but the emblems that it bears suggest pioneer days, as
well as the easier periods after the woods had been laid low. Upon a
shield of gold and blue is first a bare and brawny arm wielding an axe.
Next is a plough, and finally a wheat-sheaf, while a laurel bough on the
left and a spray of oak leaves on the right all but encircle the whole.
In one respect, perhaps, the wheat-sheaf was an even more appropriate
symbol for the county a decade ago than it is now, for it is said that
at that time a thousand bushels of grain were marketed in Goderich for
every hundred to-day. This only means that the farmers of Huron are
becoming more alive to the advantages of mixed farming, are raising more
stock than formerly, and are even beginning to make a serious business
of apple-growing.
Long before 1841, what
is now Huron County was included in the Huron Tract or District, the
settlement of which began about 1827, when the town of Goderich was
founded by Dr. Dunlop and John Galt, Commissioner of the Canada Company.
It was a period when thousands of immigrants were arriving annually in
Canada, and the lands of the Company, scattered through the more settled
districts, were speedily taken up, but the settlement of the Huron Tract
was slow, and the immigrants who did settle there were often
disappointed and dissatisfied. The bridges, roads, and mills, liberally
promised by the Company, often proved lacking altogether, or were very
poor, and, chafing against such conditions, a party was soon formed
amongst the settlers in the Huron Tract, in strong opposition to the
Company and its representatives. John Galt did not long remain in its
service, and Dr. Dunlop soon became the head of the anti-Company party.
Principal Grant (in his
preface to Miss Robina and Miss Kathleen Lizars’ In the Days of the
Canada Company, which is a veritable mine of information on the Huron
pioneers and their times) says that Galt was too big a man for the
Company, which distrusted him, and showed its distrust by sending out an
accountant to be a sort of spy upon him. Galt was, perhaps, somewhat
egotistical and self-sufficient, but at least he was “a man of ideas,”
and he did good service to Canada in bringing out people “of the right
stock.” In physique he was himself a magnificent specimen of humanity,
being almost six feet four inches in height, and broad in proportion. In
complexion he was fresh-coloured, and his hair was black and his eyes
keen. He was convinced of the necessity of roads, and Principal Grant
says that the road he cut, nearly a hundred miles in length, between
Lakes Huron and Ontario, is “one of his best monuments.” For the making
of this highway Galt was allowed only three thousand pounds, but by
paying the settlers whom he employed partly in land he was able to
accomplish the work. It was, however, but a narrow track, and after a
storm was often obstructed by huge trees that had fallen across it.
The directors of the
Company wished Galt to change the name of his little new town of Guelph
to Goderich. To mollify them, the novelist bestowed the latter name on
the infant port of Lake Huron. From the first it was chief town of the
district, as it is now of the county. Perhaps Dunlop—“Tiger” Dunlop, he
was nicknamed, from his exploits in hunting big game in India—ought to
be counted founder of Goderich, for it was he who led a party through
the woods, fixed on the site of the town, and had a log-house built on
the rising ground above the River Maitland, so named in honour of Sir
Peregrine Maitland, the Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada. A little
later John Galt, sailing in the Government gunboat Bee, from
Penetanguishene, doubling Cabot’s Head, which he called "the Cape of
Good Hope of the Lakes," and examining the coast with a telescope for
possible harbours, saw “a small clearing in the forest, and on the brow
of a rising ground a cottage delightfully situated.” While he was
debating whether this could be the location of Dunlop, the vessel was
met by a canoe, “having on board a strange combination of Indians,
velveteens, and whiskers," and Galt “discovered within roots of red hair
the living features of the doctor.”
Except for the last
brief period of his life, when acting as Superintendent of the Lachine
Canal (an office said to have been given to get him out of Parliament,
where his sharp tongue was an annoyance), the old “Tiger” identified
himself with the Huron district. At the roomy log-house of “Gairbraid”
he and his brother, the Captain, kept “bachelor’s hall.” About 1833 a
Highland dairy-woman, Louisa M'Coll, came out to them from Scotland. She
was something of a character, and when asked how she came to this
country used to reply: "Oh, indeed, shuist by poaste!” She was devoted
to “the deare gentlemen,” but (the story goes) gossip started, and, both
being unwilling to let the girl go, the doctor told his brother that
they would toss up to see which should marry her. The Captain won—which
is not surprising, seeing that the doctor tossed a double-headed penny—
so “Lou’’ became, by a marriage in which “Black Jimmy,” the butler,
officiated, Mrs. Dunlop. It was of doubtful legality, so the bride
wisely insisted on having the ceremony repeated in more regular form at
a later date. She continued to serve and look after both brothers to the
end, but failed to check their too convivial habits. The Captain died
first, and was buried by the river, with a cairn to mark the spot. Some
time later came the news that the doctor, then in charge at Lachine, was
dangerously ill, and the faithful “Lou” journeyed to his bedside, nursed
him till the end, and then in the Indian summer set out to bring back
his body to his old home. At Hamilton it was given a temporary
resting-place in Sir Allan M'Nab’s plot, but when winter improved the
roads, “Lou” continued her doleful journey with the heavy leaden coffin,
and at last laid the doctor in the grave next to his brother’s beside
the Maitland. Still the old “Tiger” lives in the pioneer legends, and
his queer, energetic personality meets us at every turn in The Days of
the Canada Company. It was the doctor who, when there was but a ferry
over the Maitland, drove “an inoffensive cow” into the stream and
crossed upon her back. It was he who took vengeance upon Galt’s bugbear,
“the Cockney accountant,” by persuading a servant and Major Strickland
(who, by the way, took service with the Canada Company in 1828) to howl
like wolves while the innocent-seeming “Tiger” was guiding the wretched
new-comer through the dense woods to Goderich. But Dunlop’s love of a
practical joke was equal to his love of strong drink.
In the latter taste he
was not singular, and, like other counties, Huiron seems to have been
fairly flooded in the early days with cheap whisky and more costly
imported intoxicants. Almost at the beginning of things the thirty white
men, then at Goderich, spent “a night of terror," because five hundred
Chippewas on the flats below were engaged in a great drinking bout.
The pioneers of all
ranks wee chiefly of a hardy, adventurous type, and many even of the
gentlemen chose to affect in dress and behaviour the fashions depicted
in such books as those of Fenimore Cooper. But, though red shirts and
unconventionable manners were in vogue, “society” in the restricted
sense was not lacking in the “backwoods” of Huron. “A fat, dark little
Baron” from Belgium was amongst the early speculators in land, and was
duly succeeded by a much handsomer heir, who caused a flutter by his
good looks, his high play, and great flirtations. Then there was the
“Colborne (Township) clique” of Scotch gentlemen, who made common cause
against the Canada Company, And (to name but one more) there was Van
Egmond (descendant, it is said, of the luckless Count who figured in the
history of the Dutch Republic). He left the farm, where was grown the
first wheat cut in Huron, to lead the rebels in 1837, but on the day of
his funeral, his son, true to his adopted country, refused to allow a
volley to be fired over the grave—because, as he said, his "father was
Mackenzie's general.” |