NO call sounded by the
pipes of this New Era is more insistent than that of the Canadian
Sea-coast. One sometimes wonders if Canadians as a whole even yet
realize the important gift bestowed, when Heaven, gave to Canada so
magnificent a coastline as that which the constant sword-play of land
and sea traces from Saint John, New Brunswick, to the
Newfoundland-Labrador Boundary? The man of Eastern Canada is "a study in
charts" worthy of basest attention. For it s here the Dominion rings up
the outside world.
But to get the real
"lay of the land", the true spirit of its people, one must not be a
stay-at-home, a mere map-student only, but a follower of the Piper
leading by the longshore road through New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape
Breton, and Prince Edward Island. Canadians must be able to say, "these
are our Maritime Provinces", and say it with a pleasurable, personal, as
well as deep, national sense. And visitors from other lands must be able
to become personally possessive if they are to enjoy the life etched
quaintly enough of Grand Pre, of the Valley of the Gaspereau, of the
bonnie Hielands o' Cape Breton. One hardly sets foot in any part of this
long stretch, without being at once conscious that the sea invades all
the life of Bluenose land, that the marine spirit is here in a
beautiful, intimate sense, like the figurehead on a ship, both soul and
mascot of the "half-island".
Sailing-vessels in
themselves, are genre crowding the Nova Scotia stage. Her earliest
discoverer came hither, over the sea, in the picturesque craft of a
Norse Dragon-ship. And the immediate chapters of her history, after
these half-shadowy voyages of the Norsemen, were written by Basque and
Breton fishboats and sail, drawn across the Atlantic Ocean in the wake
of Cod.
Cod is still, more than
ever, King in Bluenoseland and bej'ond. Over all the vast stretch of the
Canadian "Maritime" his huge fleet holds sway. And what is so romantic
as a fleet-winged schooner speeding away under full sale on her voyage
to the Banks? Unless it be the one coming in, her decks almost awash,
with the full load? Oars and sails, and the tripping bows of the
Dragon-ships and Breton bateaux founded this long one of "Bankers" and
Dories--laid the foundation of Nova Scotia's talent for shipbuilding.
The "gift" which turned out the big square riggers from the Hantsport
and Parrsboro "ways" was a natural sequence of the maritime beginning of
this land, where thought turns so naturally to the sea, and to
sea-power. It was those wooden wind-jammers, wind-jammers with mere
boat-beginnings, which paved the way to the ocean-greyhounds which now
home true to Halifax and Saint John. Oh, the Maritimes is the life blood
of Nova Scotian and Newfoundlander.
Halifax is the heart of
the Marine circulatory system. And serving Halifax with fish for
re-shipment, are 'enumerable little Havens and Outposts, all up and down
Saint Margaret's Bay, Spry Bay, the Gut of Canso, and along the vast
stretch reaching to Scuris, P.E.I., and Havre Aubert in Les Madeleiies.
And in each of these little Outports there is, of course, a family
behind every little "dory". The morning greeting among all these people
is not, "Good Day!" but, "How's Fish?" To these coastal families,
Halifax is not a mere cold city of business, but a "mother" to whom they
can turn with the catch, be it great or small, and ask bread.
And so, in a morning
spent on the Halifax waterfront, the lifting fog reveals schooner after
schooner snugly riding against the old wet piers that artists love, or
idly floating into dock amid harbour reflections, weathered spars and
mildewed sails a-drip. Sometimes there is a clump of these schooners
hitched together, all discharging at the same time. So in a single
morning at a fish-receiving wharf here, we have chatted with skipper
from Newfoundland, skipper from the Madeleine Islands in the Gulf, and
skipper from. Prince Edward Island, and not moved from the one dock.
Codfish overflows the
roofs n the final stages of the dr> ng, and lies upturned to the sun
almost under the shadow of city cathedrals. And here on the wharves is
an army of men and boys, the coopers and brine-mixers, moving about from
barrel to barrel of mackerel, mending leaks and otherwise putting them
in shape for trans-shipment; and over there, overflowing the basement of
some old warehouse, the half and whole drums, called-for by the cod
a-drying on the roof. Old scales are trundled back and forth to this
schooner and that, as the flying cod hurtles through the air, hurled by
some unseen hand at work in the hold of the "Nancy Ann", "The "Village
Leaf", or the schooner, "Passport."
In sharp contrast to
the fish-schooners is the brig, brigantine, or barque, painted white,
with water-casks the last thing in paint and fancy designs on deck. She
is discharging hogsheads of molasses brought from Barbadoes or other of
the British West Indies. Molasses has played its part and commandeered
the sailing vessel of the Bluenose fleet from the earliest times. For in
the rationing of the sea-craft up and down the coast molasses was the
"sweetening"; and old-timers to this day prefer it to sugar.
In addition to her
fishing industry and tale of ships, Nova Scotia enjoys a pastoral side
no less rich in genre. Farms are here. In following the highways and
little by-paths rambling among apple orchards and gardens, potato fields
and hay meadows —paths etched in Spring by the pink flush of
apple-blossoms, or in autumn by boughs curling to earth under weight of
rosy Baldwins or creamy Bellefleurs—one follows everywhere hard on the
heels of romance. It s her hand that beckons into every little cottage
snugly tucked away in valley and glen; where every grandmother sitting
carding. spinning, hooking rugs, knitting or reading her daily portion
of Scripture, can keep you entertained with tales and the recounting of
interesting happenings and not go outside the range of the half-dozen
houses which have been her little world for more than half a century.
Along these roads and
about these inland homes, friendly old willows mingle atmospherically
with tall and stately Lombardy poplars. It is or. these uplands of Nova
Scotia one follows the old Post-reads—roads that recall the dashing
coach of other days and still cross rivers by old covered-bridges, and
preserve the quaint, rambling old houses that served as Inns where
passengers of old sought refreshment, or spent the night, while waiting
to make connections with the coach to this or that objective.
Sitting clown by the
roadside to rest, some old-timer driving a spar of oxen and urging them
along with an apple-bough goad, s sure to come along and enter into
conversation in that happy way which s half the charm of adventuring by
Nova Scotia highways. This old farmer-carter well remembers Harry
Killcup, the Robin Hood Jehu of the Post-road from Annapolis Royal to
Halifax. He relates how Harry was talking to a girl and didn't pay
attention to his horses, and drove them too near the edge of the bridge
and they fell over, dragging the coach with them. "The river was in
flood, too, but Harry managed to get the girl clear of the wreckage, and
saved her, but the young man, with whom she travelled, was drowned." It
sounds like a movie stunt in the cold light of to-day, whereas, in fact,
it was Victorian realism and a typical incident of the dashing times of
'the chaise in which Sam Slick engaged a permanent seat in that other
"chaise of Canadian literature" by which Judge Haliburton eventually
established his name in Canada's Hall of Fame. The events live very
graphically before you as recited by this old eye-witness; who, with
many a "gee" and "whoa there", again starts his oxen on the way.
To the period of the
Post Road belongs that old landmark of time and the road, Grand Pre
Church, outstanding figure of the countryside in which dwelt Evangeline
and her people. In order to catch its romantic spirit, the time to see
Grand Pre church is in the evening, when there is just a wee flare of
daylight and a soft mist arises from the waters of Minas, shedding
itself like a diaphanous veil over the land, as one strolls up the
country-road that comes through the village from the North, under
willows and poplars, to the door of the old church and then rambles off
to the South between clover fields and stacks of hay; the hay resembling
Hottentot villages outlined against the ashes-of-roses sky. It is at
dusk, that the rather austere lines of window, tower and roof lose their
sharp, almost Quaker-like severity. It is at that hour that the old
stones of the graveyard become time-softened, ivory-tinted pages of
history assembled under the stately poplars. Inside the church, in the
strong, simple lines of its painted box-pews and high pulpit; in the old
gallery; and in the square windows with little panes, there is the
quaint atmosphere which clings especially to old churches of the early
Colonial Period.
Sitting in these old
pews during service is to be carried away on the wings of history to a
pivotal point, whence to behold a Cyclorama of all Canada. To the left,
on this great canvas—Glooscap and Micmac; succeeded by crude Breton and
Portuguese fishermen in their strange bateaux; followed by stirring
panels of Annapolis Royal and Louisburg, contrasted against panels of
tenacious pioneer Scotch and English settlers; in the next, the clash
between France and England for supremacy, not alone in this sweet
countryside of Grand Pre, but in every other contained in the word
Canada. These are followed by a panel of united empire royalists—very
realistic this, because, in the village, you have just been looking at
an old oil-painting of Colonel Crane and fingering his fine old sword,
that never wavered in its allegiance.
The other half of the
Cycle, begins the New Order. First, a symbolic figure of the stream of
emigration flowing through the Maritime Gate to the great Canadian West,
followed by prairie scenes and mountain peaks, mining scenes, cattle
scenes, tawny grain, and Trans-Canada trains, sisters of "Glooscap", and
"The Flying Bluenose". That, is Grand Pre Church—a link between the Past
and the Present. |