OF all the forces of
Nature governing human endeavour, none it would seem, are at once more
intimate and exacting than Time and Tide.
But, while Time is
everywhere, Tide is local. And though by a system of daylight-saving we
have sought to get the best of Time. Tide, as wiseacres of old put it,
"waits tor no man."
Such a play of thought
and words as can scarcely be conceive in surge and race with "tide". "A
full tide," "a brimming tide", high ^.de", are synonyms for success in
life, for progress, for the acquisition of wealth, for "Bon Chance", as
"good luck" is phrased in Quebec. Whereas "Low Tide", "Ebbing Tide", and
kindred terms, we all know only too well what they mean—dull business
and empty pockets. But over-riding all these is the cheerful swing of
encouragement in "There's a tide in the affairs of men, which taken at
the flood leads on to Fortune."
Nowhere does the daily
line of a people hang so intimately on tide as down Bay of Fundy way.
Tide there plays a titanic scale. It lengthens out the scant octave
spanned of other shores to fifty, and in some places it is said, to
sixty feet. The people of these parts live "on the landwasb" as it were,
with "high tide" and "low", a daily portion. The Bay of Fundy apportions
to its people the biggest slice of tide afforded to any people anywhere
in the world. And, as it disregards the ordinary laws of all ordinary
tides in the matter of ebb and flow, so, strangely enough, its physical
"low tide" is more often than not, the "high tide" of business and
affairs. It is when the edge of the Fundy Basin is a line of mud from
St. John to Parrsboro, around the Minis Basin and back to Digby, that
life awakens and things begin to happen. It is as if the old Bay said
"Any old place can have a high tide but who can have a 'low' lute mine?"
The Low Tide of Fundy
is indeed its most prominent feature, playing an important part in the
despatch of passenger and mail steamers from both Saint John and Digby.
Indeed, the Bay-steamers actually play a game with the tide. If the
steamer is "in" and the tide "out", the steamer must wait for the tide
to come "in" before she can go "out", on its brimming fullness through
Digby Cut. So, the schooners and square-riggers all come "in" and go
"out" when the tide is full but they load the deal in West Bay whichever
way the tide "sets" 'round Cape Split. So, too, the stateliest
Square-rigger or most sail-crowded schooner going up the bay for a load
of plaster has the water out from under her keel when the Mower scythes
the waves and sweeps them away to the ocean, leaving all keels, whether
great or small, hard and fast in Fundy Sound.
The Bay of Fundy is the
greatest natural drydock in the world. And in its day, which began the
evening the stately ship of Sieur de Monts first floated in on its flood
tide to found a settlement at Annapolis Royal, it has docked thousands
of craft of all rigs and sizes. As drydock, as well as sheltering
harbour, while it belongs 'n particular to New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia, in a wider sense it belongs to all Canada. So that in the great
future in trade now before Canada, it requires no great foreknowledge to
venture that the volume of vessels frequenting the Bay in the palmiest
days of the past, will soon be eclipsed both in number of ships and in
increased displacement. As yet, the Bay of Fundy is like a masterpiece
hanging in a gallery, which we have not sat down to look at carefully
and appraisingly.
No other country apart
from the thought of it as a drydock en;oys such a haven Tor ships as
Canada possesses in the Bay of Fundy. The Bay of Fundy whose "power" is
the tremendous ebb and flow of its tides, has hitherto seemed somet! ing
"out cf us", and beyond our power to turn to account,
Bliss Carman, it will
be remembered, penned a beautiful lament in "The Ships of Saint John".
But we may take it that the condition lamented was but temporary, merely
"the ebb tide" in affairs and that when the tide comes again, roaring
round Blomidon, the tide of Canadian shipping, it will be such a
brimming tide of prosperity as old timers of these parts never even
dreamed of The ships of the world will surely dock again in numbers
where "The fog still hangs on the long tide-rips." One saw during the
years of the war a re-birth of old-time trade around the shore in the
large number of square-riggers calling at Bay-ports for deal. You could
count them three and four deep in West Bay by Fartridge Island out of
Parrsboro. And how all the forests and sawmills around were touched at
once into new life by a mere sight of these stately old craft, many, an
hundred years or thereabouts :n age, in their turn awakened from
graveyards n out of-the-way havens of the Old World by the clash of
arms.
To all the people
living on the Bay of Fundy shores these old vessels, newly painted, with
their "yards" abeam and "figureheads" on the bow refurbished, were happy
sights indeed. It was like their own yout come back, in case of the old.
To the young "vision". Old ports thought dead awoke to nev/ life. In
"trade" around the Bay it was no longer "ebb tide".
One never ceases to
marvel at the number of other trades that spring to life in the wake of
shipping. Ships and big "water-tramps", such as Canada's are the things
to make dreams come true. Shins resemble railroad trains in the matter
of faithfulness to prescribed routes having ports for stations. And
there's not an ocean wanderer of them ail, or a skipper of importance,
but knows the Bay of Fundy and its "tides" Nevertheless, however import
ant from the commercial point of view, hard and fast trade is not the
only phase of Fundy life. It also has its romantic side.
"Low tide" fills the
shoreline with the rich, wet colours which artists love to paint. It
builds too, new kinds of wharves, breakers with an upstairs and down,
and greeny bronze reeds clinging to water-ranked piles; and "craft" of
some kind, schooners, or tropic-bleached and-warped old vessels with
rakish yards, looking like pirate craft by reason o£ many trips in the
white [suns, leaning against them.
It is a signal when the
mud-line begins, to all the clam-diggers of the countryside to come out
with shovels, forks, rake-hoes, or any old garden tools that can be used
to dig clams. Sometimes one sees here some old woman alone, using a
rake-hoe as a staff, her skirts blowing in the wind and a genuine joy in
her heart every time an oozy squish is emitted by her old boots. The
tide of life has come and gone for her to the accompaniment of the ebb
and flow of the waters of Fundv. In them she has found comfort and by
them, perhaps, a living. They have been the outlook of a lifetime,
companionable whatever their mood.
In the matter of c!am-digging
the Bay of Fundv has a decided rival in the long-stretching sandspits or
bara-chois of the Madeleine Island, in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, then
one sees a one or more of habitant women, their skirts tucked about the
middle, wading in the shallow water with their horses and carts and even
dog-carts, themselves working for hours the tide to it. But, on the
white sand one sees no vessel in friendly fashion as on the soft mud of
Fundy.
At another spot the kelp-gatherer is at work. Edible
kelp can be bought in many Wolfville and other Bay of Fundy-town grocery
shops. And in season the kelp-gatherer, with his sack, is an interesting
figure of the Digby and Parrsboro tide-flats and algae covered rocks.
Romantic treasures are uncovered by the low tides, in
the amethyst geodes to be picked up along shore. Amethyst outcroppings
provide a romantic objective for taking geologist hammer in hand in a
jaunt to the cliffs of Blomidon and the jagged, beetling wall presented
by Partridge Island on its southern side to the sweep of the Bay. Nor is
amethyst alone, here. Other semiprecious crystals abound, making the
gamut run by Romance one of great range. For, when the tide is low, over
against the fire of the Glooscap jewels, are set the figures of carts
going out over the wet mud, scintillating with the colours that artists
love, to the amphibious little Bay coasting-schooners, stranded, for the
time being, like so many jellyfish.
Then come out the caulkers, caulking-irons in hand,
are old seams filled, old leaks and new made tight the caulking mallet
in a race against the fast-coming tide. For the caulker knows that with
the return of that great force, gathering in strength with every inch of
rise, the old plaster-carrier will slowly right herself, lifting,
lifting herself out of the mud, "locked" to the higher level, by that
greatest of natural forces the flooding tide of Fundy, till, presently
sitting like a swan on the water, she declares herself afloat and ready
for the race to Boston with her cargo of "Plaster-of-Paris", out of
Acadie. |