THESE "Reminiscences of
Pioneer Days in B. C.” are mostly of a personal nature. They have been
jotted down at the request of relations and friends, partly from memory
and partly from letters written at the time to my mother, which were
returned to me after her death. They are not intended to be a record of
church work nor of the official life of my husband, this having been
dealt with in “Pioneer Church Work in British Columbia: A Memoir of
Acton Windever Sillitoe, by the Rev. H. H. Gowen, and in “Early Days in
B. C.,” published Christmas, 1922.
These “Reminiscences” deal more with the little daily happenings and
journeyings in the semi-pioneer days covered by the duration of my
husband’s episcopate from 1879 to 1894.
OUR tirst journey out to British Columbia in 1880 was by no means an
uneventful one, and the latter part was distinctly uncomfortable.
The steamer on which we crossed the Atlantic, the Allan liner Sarmatian,
was the last word in luxury, as it was accounted in those days. A suite
of apartments on board had been arranged shortly before for carrying H.
R. H. the Princess Louise and H. E. Lord Lorne, when he was appointed
Governor-General of Canada.
Luxury in those days meant a very different thing to what it does now.
The best of staterooms was exceedingly small, with the regulation upper
and lower berths, a narrow sofa opposite, and a small washstand facing
the door. The cabin was lighted by an oil lamp enclosed in a
ground-glass case, shared between two staterooms, and the light was very
dim.
Arrived in the Gulf of St. Lawrrence we were caught in a huge ice-field
and could neither go forward nor backward. It was a wonderful scene, ice
in every direction as far as the eye could reach, and innumerable
vessels of all sorts and such were in the same uncomfortable plight as
ourselves. Little fishing schooners and big ocean liners were caught
fast in the ice. There wrere the Allan liners Polynesian and Moravian,
the mail steamers that had left the week and fortnight ahead of us, and
to whom we were able to send the latest news and also a supply of
newspapers, etc. People were out on the ice amusing themselves. The ice
was from 15 to 20 feet thick, but was getting rotten, so that we were
able, after a delay of about twenty-four hours, to grind our way
through, and we arrived in Quebec ahead of the other steamers.
The Union Pacific was the only transcontinental line, and though the
trains were comfortable, there were no dining cars, and the meals
provided at the stopping places during the latter part of the journey,
to put it mildly, were not appetizing.
The voyage from San Francisco in the old Idaho was even worse, for the
steamer was crowded to capacity with men engaged to work on the railway
construction of the C. P. R.; which had just commenced on the Western
Division, and at night all the floor space was covered with sleeping
figures. These men were described elsewhere as the scum of the San
Francisco market!
Arrived at Victoria we went to stay at Bishops’ Close with the Bishop
and Mrs. Hills, and the kindness of our hosts and the cleanliness of the
house and meals and the sweet scents of the flowers wafted in through
the open windows, by very force of contrast, made it seem like a
foretaste of Paradise. Mrs. Hills was a wonderful gardener, and the
Bishops’ Close garden was one of the sights of Victoria, to which all
visitors from other parts were taken as a matter of course.
When we arrived in New Westminster on June 18, 1880, there was no house
ready for us, and Archdeacon and Mrs Woods received us most hospitably
at the Rectory. We made our headquarters with them for nearly three
weeks, the Bishop making trips of a day or two to Burrard Inlet, Ladner
and the North Arm of the Fraser and other nearby places, I accompanying
him.
Then a move was made to Yale, and we took up our abode for a while in
the four-room Mission House, built many years before. It was here I
began to wrestle with the difficulties of cooking and housekeeping.
The summer and autumn were occupied by the Bishop in getting to know the
diocese and the people, and many short journeys and one long one were
made.
We arrived back in New Westminster on October 26, and were much
disappointed to find that work on the old Archdeaconry House at
Sapperton (which was to be our home), and which was afterwards renamed
S. Mary’s Mount, had progressed so slowly that it was not nearly ready
for us. This time the Rev. C. Baskett came to our rescue and offered us
a room in his house, a very ramshackle building roughly built of
material from some abandoned sappers’ houses, for Sapperton was where
the Royal Engineers were located when they were laying out the city of
New Westminster. It is interesting to recall that it was Queen Victoria
herself who gave New Westminster its name. Originally it was to be
called Queenborough, but objections were raised, and affairs became so
heated that the question was referred to England, and Her Majesty
decided the matter by herself choosing the name, thereby conferring a
singular honor on New Westminster.
At that time there were two Crown Colonies: Vancouver Island, with
Victoria as the capital, and the mainland of British Columbia, with New
Westminster as its capital.
Government House was built on the high ground of the ravine which runs
through the Penitentiary grounds, and where the house of the governor of
that institution now stands.
Our quarters (or perhaps I should say “quarter,” as we had only one
room) in Mr. Baskett’s house were far from luxurious, although in a
missionary magazine Mr. Baskett had been described as one of the city
clergy “languishing in the lap of luxury” so different from the
up-country missionaries, whose many hardships were feelingly described.
In point of fact nothing could have been more misleading. Mr. Baskett
led a most self-denying life, and in his home few luxuries found place.
Even his bed was only a built-in bunk in a tiny place off the kitchen,
and the house was so badly constructed that the four winds of heaven
blew at their sweet will through it. The room given to us was the
diningroom, and in a small alcove was the bed. It measured 2 ft. 6 ins.
in width, and, having to accommodate two people, was widened by a wooden
bench out of the church, on which for mattress was placed the original
red cushion that adorned the gubernatorial pew in S. Mary’s Church and
which was much worn by long usage. It was better, however, than the
mattress proper, which was of flock, which had gathered into hard lumps
like raw potatoes, and the solitary pillow was filled with the same
material. However, extreme fatigue made sleep possible, or if not, there
was the pleasure of contemplating the stars through the holes in the
roof, or for change we could look down through the cracks and knotholes
in the floor to see how three of the would-be clergy, who had arrived
from England, were getting on, and who were housed in a kind of
basement, possibly even more airy than the house. Mr. Sheldon, one of
them, not having a sufficient supply of blankets, we noticed was
sleeping under a violet funeral pall which he had annexed from the
church.
Our stove was a very small sheet-iron one with a drum in the stovepipe
for oven, and in which on the first day I baked a beeksteak pie. To my
immense astonishment it turned out a success; I think a special
providence watches over the efforts of the very ignorant, but how
inhospitable I felt when I had cooked a joint or pie which I hoped might
last at least for two meals and it was picked to the bone or the last
scrap at the first one!
Fortunately for us the Bishop could turn his hand to anything, but this
quality was by no means shared by the embryo clergy. One day the menu
for dinner consisted of herrings. Now I could clean herrings when
necessity called for it, but I could not eat them afterwards, and the
Bishop was very quick to notice any loss of appetite on my patt. I asked
all three of the young men if they would undertake this job for me, and
all with one accord made some excuse or other, so I was just settling
down to my work when the Bishop came along, sized up the situation, and
took over the job himself. It was just the same with the wood chopping;
if Mr. Baskett was not on hand to help, the Bishop did it. One good,
kind engineer’s wife saved me a lot of work by baking the bread for us.
As it was I became ill with the strain, and in consequence we moved into
our house when it was still far from complete, and shared it with the
workmen. The move was made on the day before Advent Sunday, 1880, when
we at long last acquired a home of our own, and never before or
afterwards did anything seem such an acme of luxury, and though our
friends prophesied all sorts of ills from damp walls, etc., nothing
happened.
Soon after S. Mary’s Mount was completed and the workmen had left, the
Bishop was called over to Granville on some business and was obliged to
stay overnight, and for some reason or other I did not accompany him. By
this time we had a Chinaman, and as Sapperton is some distance from New
Westminster, he slept in the house. We also had two dogs, a collie and a
black retriever, the latter a dog of great character, by no means good
tempered, but very much attached to us. At about two in the morning on
the night of the Bishop’s absence, I was awakened from my first sleep by
the dogs barking most furiously, and slipping on my dressing gown I ran
downstairs, calling to the Chinaman as I passed. The dogs were throwing
themselves against the front door, and when I opened it they tore off in
the direction of the gate. After some time and after hunting round the
outside of the house, for I thought it might be a telegram from or about
the Bishop, I returned and called the dogs in.
Our dogs, although allowed in the house, were never permitted to come
upstairs. When I was returning to bed the black retriever started to
follow me, and when he did not obey my first order to go down, I spoke
to him sharply, and for the only time in his life he growled at me. That
night he slept on the bare boards outside my door, and was there when I
came out in the morning and begged his pardon. He knew his duty was to
look after me in his master’s absence and intended to do it in spite of
anything I said. The Chinaman never came out of his room at all, but
told me that he had heard steps on the verandah, and in the morning
there were footprints, showing that two men had been around and some
tools left outside were missing. It was well for the burglars that I was
not as quick as I might have been in waking and getting downstairs or
they might have fared badly from the teeth of the dogs.
Another occasion, when I was even more frightened, had a most ludicrous
ending. I was at this time quite alone, the Bishop was in New
Westminster attending a meeting and the Chinaman was away also. I was
sitting working when I was startled by a crash at the back of the house.
There was no nearby house to flee to, and I knew that I must not allow
my nerves to get the better of me, so with a beating heart and taking my
courage in my hands, or rather hand, the other being occupied by the
lamp which I carried, I made my way to the kitchen and there discovered
the reason of the noise.
The Chinaman had left a bowl of batter on the table, and the cat in her
peregrinations had pushed it off and it fell on the floor with a crash,
which probably sounded about ten times as loud as it really was, and in
falling had poured the contents into the Chinaman’s slippers, which
stood handy. My relief was such that I laughed till I was almost
hysterical.
In one of my home letters I described the first meeting of the clergy at
our house in February, 1881. These meetings became annual events during
my husband’s episcopate. As far as I remember there were six guests to
be housed at the 1881 gathering. The weather was bitterly cold and when
I had distributed our none too liberal supply of blankets there remained
only one very thin single one for ourselves. This we supplemented by the
Bishop’s Inverness cape and my winter coat, but in spite of these we
spent a very shivery night.
Next morning, just as we were assembling for breakfast, Mr. Whiteway,
one of the visitors, came up to me and said: 'Mrs. Sillitoe, could you
let me have another blanket? I was not quite warm enough last night.”
With a sinking heart but with hypocritically cheerful countenance, I
said “Certainly,” and that night our one and only blanket was given up.
But our sufferings had a very practical silver lining, for when reading
of our difficulties in my letters home, my mother and two aunts were so
sympathetic that they sent us out a goodly supply of blankets; so our
shivering nights had not been in vain.
The following is a description of one of these meetings from another
point of view, published in “Pioneer Work in B. C ”:
The whole staff of the Diocese was present. The Bishop, realizing most
acutely the dangers that beset the clergy in their lives of comparative
isolation in this extensive Diocese, knowing how much the spirituality
of the work depends upon the maintenance of a high tone of piety and
devotion in all to whom the care of souls is committed, and deeply alive
to the importance of fostering a spirit of brotherly kindness between
himself and his spiritual sons, “yea, rather, brethren beloved,” is
aided by his wife at no little cost and trouble in the preparation he
makes for affording a retreat whilst the examination of candidates
proceeds.
At six a.m. the calling bell arouses all from slumber, and by seven the
chapel is occupied by silent worshippers preparing for the Eucharist,
celebrated by the Bishop himself every morning at 7.30.
It is needless to anyone acquainted with the Bishop’s regard for order
and reverence to add that the administration of Holy Communion is
invested with the solemnity and impressiveness that befit the Divine
Mysteries.
At eight breakfast is partaken of in silence, whilst each in turn reads
from some book of an edifying character. This season we read Milman’s
“Love of the Atonement.”
At ten the examination of the candidates is conducted by the Archdeacon.
Dinner is at 1 p.m., with reading in turn, as also at tea, which is at
six it is with almost a feeling of reluctance that one returns to the
custom of making such occasions periods of social relaxation and common
talk.
Friday is passed in a still more marked manner, though it is generally
termed a “quiet day.” Absolute silence is enjoined on all by the Bishop,
himself not excluded, from the rising of the sun till breakfast on the
day following. On the walls are posted the proceedings in which all are
expected to take part; subjects for meditation suitable to the
ministerial life, and earnest addresses by the Bishop and others are
given in the chapel, concluding with a special service at 7.30, to which
the parishioners are generally invited. So the day of separation from
the world, of self-communing, and personal exhortation, passes away—but
not so, we trust, the deeper insight into ourselves, the high resolve,
the kindled desire and the chastened spirit.
DURING our sojourn at S. Mary’s Mount we had the honor of entertaining
three governors-general. Princess Louise accompanied her husband, the
Marquis of Lorne; Lord Lansdowne was only accompanied by his staff,
while Lady Stanley of Preston came out with her husband. In each case
our house, which was none too big, was taxed to the limit, and beyond.
The Marquis of Lorne was the first one to come, in the early autumn of
1882. His party consisted of H. R. H. the Princess Louise, with her two
ladies-in-waiting, Miss McNeil and Miss Harvey; Col. de Winton,
comptroller of the household; and two valets. Other members of the party
we found room for in the old Government House and in town.
We had only twenty-four hours’ notice of the honor in store for us, and,
as usual, it found us with every room in the house occupied; indeed I
never remember the time when the house was not full. We had, therefore,
not only to provide for the incoming guests, but to find quarters for
the outgoing ones. Staying with us at the time were two of the Cowley
Community, Fathers Hall and Shepherd, who had come out to spend the
summer ministering to the men working on the Canadian Pacific Railway
construction. Later Father Hall became (and still is) Bishop of Vermont,
while lather Shepherd died in South Africa.
I was still very young at the time, and very shy, and stood in great awe
of these two holy men, but when they asked if they could do anything to
help, my need of assistance was so great that I promptly accepted, and
giving them two big aprons, set them to work to clean the silver! Like
everything else they undertook, the work was done to perfection! Miss
Kendal, who at that time was in charge of Columbia College, the Church
school for girls, was also most kind in helping me.
S. Mary’s Mount had three fair-sized bedrooms and two very small ones,
and into these the party was packed, H. R. H. and the Governor-General
having our bedroom and one of the small rooms as dressing-room, the two
ladies-in-waiting sharing a room, and Colonel de Winton occupying the
remaining large one. The Bishop and I and all our possessions were piled
into the second small one, which was about six feet by ten or twelve,
with no cupboard. I shudder when I think of the appearance of that room.
The party arrived at about 1 o’clock and in great style, for there being
no carriage on the mainland, other than the high, old-fashioned stages,
a landeau had been imported for the time being from Victoria.
A party of bluejackets formed the escort. As the luggage was to follow
later, the Princess asked if she might borrow one or two articles from
me, and happily amongst the wilderness piled up I was able to find what
she needed. Amongst other things, put in at the last minute, was our
little dog, who was apt to bark at strangers.
When the Princess came downstairs she said to me: “I hope I have not
done wrong, but when returning your belongings I let out your little
dog!”
Just imagine my feelings at H. R. H. having seen that awful room! The
Princess told me to be sure to make use of the valets—these two men
having been accommodated with tents pitched in the field at the back.
If I had been awed at the thought of entertaining royalty, I was simply
terrified at the valets, but again extreme need came to my aid. Our
domestic staff consisted of one Chinaman, who had to look after the
horses, milk the cow, attend to the vegetable garden, besides cooking,
baking and washing for the family, and help, therefore, was urgently
needed, so I had the head valet in, giving him directions as to the
setting of and waiting at table, etc.
I explained that I made the coffee myself in the drawingroom, of which
he quite approved, saying that H. R. H. did the same at Government
House, but when I further explained that after returning from viewing
the torchlight procession and illuminations on the river, I wanted him
to bring in the tea tray, which I would have all ready, there his
approval ceased— “We don’t have tea at Government House, madam!”
Feeling that I must assert myself, I said: “I think I would like you to
bring it in,” and he then thought he probably had been a little too
officious, for he added rather apologetically: “You see, madam, our
gentlemen don’t drink enough to require it!” His enlightening of my
unsophisticated mind on the reason of tea and coffee after dinner was so
deliciously funny that I had to go into the drawing-room to repeat the
conversation, which caused much amusement.
Princess Louise was an ideal guest, so simple and unassuming, as were
the ladies-in-waiting. Miss Harvey was a first-rate musician. Miss
McNeil afterwards married, as his second or third wife, the old Duke of
Argyle, and so became step-mother-in-law to Princess Louise.
The Princess made several sketches from our field and these appeared
later in the London Graphic. As it was still too early for fires, she
went into the kitchen herself to dry her sketches, catching the Bishop
at the back of the house in his shirt sleeves doing some necessary
chores. Between tea and dinner we spent the time with music, the
Princess and I singing duets, she taking the alto and I the soprano.
Next morning there was a great gathering of Indians to see the “Queen’s
Papoose” and also to make speeches to the Governor-General. Just before
leaving, Colonel de Winton came in to tell the Princess what
arrangements had been made, for she was to return to H. M. S. “Comus”
that day en route for Victoria, and the whole party, ourselves included,
were to go with her to Port Mood. The Marquis was to return with us, as
he was going on up country next day. The arrangements were that the
Governor-General, the Princess and the two ladies-in-waiting should
drive in the landeau, the Bishop and I in the buckboard, and the rest in
all sorts and conditions of buggies and stages.
“Oh, no,” said the Princess, “that won’t do. I am going to drive in the
buckboard with the Bishop,” and no amount of persuasion or expostulation
would turn her from her purpose.
This was the first the Bishop had heard of the honor in store for him,
and he hastily slipped out to the stable to have a look at the harness
and see to the harnessing of the horse. The buckboard had seen service,
hard service, and indeed very little of its original coating of paint
remained, while the harness had been second-hand when we bought it and
had since then grown perceptibly shabbier, and although not held
together (as much B. C. harness was) by cord and telegraph wire, still
it was only a few degrees better.
“Punch,” my beautiful horse, given to me on my first birthday in British
Columbia by the Bishop, had blue blood in him. He was bred for a racer
but had ignominiously failed in his first race, and the Bishop,
therefore, was able to acquire him for the price of an ordinary horse.
But even “Punch” did not appear at his best. His coat was shaggy and
none too well groomed; in fact, the whole turnout, to say the least, was
appallingly shabby. It headed the procession, passing through the
decorated grounds to the playing of the bands, the waving of flags and
the cheering of the crowds.
Next came the landeau with the Governor-General and myself, and the two
ladies-in-waiting opposite. The honor thrust upon me was not at all
appreciated, and I sighed for the buckboard and the company of my
husband. We all lunched on the “Comus,” returning in the afternoon, and
next day, after bidding adieu to the Marquis of Lorne, we returned to
our ordinary “daily round.”
I have very little recollection of the Marquis of Lome’s visit on his
return from the upper country.
Lord Lansdowne’s visit was a most delightful one. Of all the guests we
had—and they were many—he and Sir John Macdonald were perhaps the most
charming. Lord Lansdowne was accompanied by two aides and, I think, a
secretary. When they arrived, one of the aides said to the Bishop: “Do
you remember, My Lord, when we last met?”
The Bishop did not recollect, and small wonder, when the aide said:
“Don’t you remember bailing me out of the police court at Darmstadt in
78?”
As this bailing out of the police court of the many young Englishmen who
were learning German, preparatory to going into the army, was a constant
occurrence, it is hardly to be wondered that the Bishop did not remember
the circumstance. The numerous German notices of “verboten” or “streng
verboten” were irresistible incentives to the English youths to do what
was “forbidden” or “strictly forbidden” by the German police. Many of
these youths whom we knew in Germany turned up in B. C. to renew the
acquaintance.
Our house was often called Hotel Sillitoe, because all sorts and
conditions of people, both invited and uninvited, came to stay with us.
It was a holiday home for any of the workers in the Diocese, and when
people were ill they came to be nursed and to recuperate; some of our
guests were indeed angels that we entertained unawares, and owing to
conditions and difficulties of travel, they would turn up quite
unexpectedly. On one occasion at four o’clock one morning in summer
time, the Bishop, hearing steps on the verandah, put his head out of the
window and called, “Who is there?” A meek voice from below replied: “Me,
my Lord.” “Me” was the Rev. R. Small, later Archdeacon of Yale, and his
colleague, the Rev. H. Edwardes, who had just arrived from Lytton. I was
getting up to make beds ready for them, when I was ordered to remain
where I was. I had been ill and was only just recovering. For the
remainder of the night the two men had to sleep between blankets, to the
great distress of my housewifely soul.
In travelling about B. C., as we did every year, we met with the most
wonderful hospitality. We could turn up quite unexpectedly at the most
busy season of the year, or probably at other times equally
inconvenient, but always the same smiling welcome was accorded; only
once in all those years do I remember being turned away, probably for
some good reason. I have no recollection now of what it was, but I do
remember the sinking of heart I experienced, for it was late in the
afternoon, the next stopping place being fifteen miles further on—a long
stretch for tired horses, to say nothing of ourselves. By the time we
reached our second destination it was quite dark. Our host came out to
welcome us and then went with the Bishop to unharness and see after the
comfort of our horses. This was a job my husband always attended to
himself, and he did not leave until the horses were rubbed down and
comfortably stabled; always the first thing in the morning he was out
again at the stables scraping the collars, greasing the axles and
generally over-hauling the harness.
This particular stopping place boasted of no women kind. I had been
ushered into a large barroom, or at least what appeared to be one, with
ten or twelve men lounging about. I was very tired, and, making for the
nearest chair, felt a great inclination to weep. The real dangers of the
road, so long as my husband was with me, were as nothing, but to be left
unprotected in the company of so many unknown men was terrifying. It
soon became evident that if I were frightened of the men they were
equally so of me, for one by one they made their way out, and I was left
absolutely alone. When our host returned, he asked if he could show me
to my cabin, and at first I thought he must have been a seafaring man,
but no; following the light of the lantern he carried, he ushered us
into a one-room cabin with mud floor and just two beds, not another
thing, and our host made many apologies to me for the absence of a
looking-glass! After supper the men again gathered together, and the
Bishop held a short service, and then, after I had retired, he stayed on
awhile to have a smoke and talk with them. Next morning he managed to
get a pail of water in which I could perform my ablutions. Although our
baggage had to be very limited—just a small Gladstone bag shared between
us—I always carried soap, towels, a pair of sheets and pillowcases; such
things as clean sheets or sheets of any kind were by no means the
invariable rule. We borrowed a newspaper to pin over the window as a
shade. Another time, when not even a pail could be found in a bachelor
establishment, the Bishop commandeered the bread-pan, which no doubt
served many other uses, besides being a receptacle for the mixing of the
dough.
The most striking case of hospitality occurred on one of our visits to
the Nicola Valley. It was late in October and the weather had turned
very cold. Towards the middle of one afternoon, when we pulled up at our
destination, we found only the shell of a house; the side walls were in
place, but no roof, no filling between the logs, and, of course, no
doors and windows. We were beginning to figure out the distance to the
next house when a young couple came out to greet us, the wife looking
like a charming picture out of a Kate Greenaway book.
O, yes, they could certainly take us in, and, going through the shell of
a house, we were shown into a large room — kitchen, sitting-room and
bedroom all in one, with a bed in one corner. I could see no other room,
so, after the horses were housed, we decided to take a walk and give our
hosts an opportunity of making any preparations necessary. It was so
cold that, instead of going farther than about half-a-mile, we gathered
a lot of fir cones, made a fire and sat down on a log to enjoy the
warmth. On our return, things were, to all outward appearances, just as
when we left. After supper the Bishop held evening prayers, and about 9
o’clock our host and hostess got up, and, saying good-night, left us in
possession; we supposed there must be some other accommodation of which
he knew nothing. It was not until next morning that we learned they had
slept in blankets on the floor of the unfinished building, and the
thermometer when we got up in the morning stood at 2 below zero!
The Bishop was, I think, the hardest worker I ever knew; he was never
very strong, and even before coming out to British Columbia he had had a
good deal of trouble with his throat, and this was a source of
difficulty during the winter months especially, as the constant
preaching and speaking was a great strain on the vocal cords. Five
services on a Sunday, with some three or four sermons, was very usual.
One winter, during the absence in England of Archdeacon Woods, the
Bishop had entire charge of Holy Trinity, New Westminster, and S.
Mary’s, Sapperton, with only intermit-tant help from a deacon.
The summer travelling, hard though it was in many ways, always found us
in better health at the end than at the start. In connection with loss
of voice, a most curious entry was made in the Yale service book,
unnoticed at the time, but discovered within the record of some service
was being looked up. The Rev. Darrell Horlock was in charge of the
Church, and on a certain Sunday, in place of the usual entry of the
services, which included the text of the sermon, it read: “No services,
Rector ill, voice gone.” The next Sunday he was somewhat better, and the
entry appeared, “Eight o’clock Celebration, eleven Mattins, no sermon,
Rector’s voice still gone,” and on the third Sunday the usual services
were entered, and the following was the sermon text: “And the Lord
opened the mouth of the ass.”
All Saints’ Day, the date of the Bishop’s consecration in 1879, and
consequently the birthday of the Diocese, was a day much observed, and
we always had to be back from our travels before that date. A service at
Holy Trinity, New Westminster, with special music on the eve of the
festival, always attracted a very large congregation, and latterly the
choir was augmented by the choirs of some of the Vancouver churches. At
eight o’clock in the morning of All Saints’ Day there would be a
Communion service, fully choral, the music being most beautifully
rendered by the choir, which had been trained by the Bishop himself. His
great relaxation was music, of which he was passionately fond, and when,
during his last illness, the reading of ordinary books tired him, the
reading of music scores was generally possible He organized, soon after
our arrival, the New Westminster Choral Union, which once a week, during
the winter months, brought all the musical people together, and was
himself the trainer and conductor; several concerts were given each
season, one always being a performance of Handel’s “Messiah.” Such
tramps we used to have in those early days into New Westminster, through
deep mud, lighting ourselves on our way with a lantern ! The sidewalk,
which was built later to the outskirts of New Westminster, was done by
private subscriptions, gotten up by the Bishop, the Brunette Saw Mill
giving all, or at least part, of the lumber. This made the night
journeys into town much easier. After the Bishop’s death I gave his
music scores to the Library in New Westminster, and also a file of the
concert programmes. A concert by some members of the Choral Union was
given at Granville, in the winter of 1884, before anybody thought it
would be the terminus of the C. P. R., though the Bishop always
prophesied that Burrard Inlet would some day rival San Francisco as a
seaport, and was laughed at for his optimism. Those taking part in the
concert made the 12-mile journey over the Douglas road by sleigh, the
snow making-travelling much easier, for during the rest of the year the
road was more or less a combination of corduroy and mud-holes.
We had two sleighs, which greatly helped in the transportation of the
performers. One of the sleighs was a necessity, the other a luxury, and,
as we did not indulge in many luxuries, I had better explain this
exception to the rule.
Our original sleigh was just a rough box upon runners, with boards
nailed across for seats, the whole thing built at the least possible
cost. We were driving over to Granville one winter’s day, and stopped to
speak to Mr. Black, mine host of the Road End Hotel, and some of his
friends. They remarked upon our sleigh in not very complimentary terms,
and the Bishop explained that it was strong and serviceable, and the
best he could afford. A few days later there was brought to S. Mary’s
Mount a beautiful little two-seated cutter, a present to me from these
generous-hearted men.
On our travels in the out-of-the-way places, services had to be held in
all sorts of places. On our first visit to the Coldstream Ranch, near
what is now Vernon, the services were held in a big barn, and in “Early
Days in B. C.” I told f the comical interference with the sermon by a
proud hen which had just laid an egg. On our next visit to Coldstream
different arrangements were made for the services. A new dining-room had
just been added, but the floor boards had been left loose so as to allow
of their shrinking before being nailed down. The service proceeded
uneventfully until the first lesson, when the chairs on which we were
seated began to jerk up and down in a most curious way, giving the whole
scene a most ludicrous appearance. The explanation was that a party of
pigs had got in underneath the room, and finding the unusual resistance
of the boards provided delightful scratching for their backs, had a
delightful time. A little later our gravity was again sorely tried. An
old mother pig, surrounded by a large and growing family, had inserted
her head into a receptacle where the Chinaman threw the refuse from the
kitchen, and, while the meal proceeded, all went well; but, when she
tried to withdraw her head, she could not do it, and, growing
frightened, rushed around with the tin still on her head, terrifying her
poor offspring, who scattered with loud squeals in all directions at the
unwonted appearance of their parent, and all this was in full view of
the room. I hope that the service was edifying—certainly it was not
dull.
REMINISCENCES of Pioneer Days in B. C.” would indeed be incomplete
without mention of Father Pat, one of the best-known and best-loved men
in the Diocese of New Westminster. The Rev. H. Irwin came out in 1885,
and was stationed at Kamloops as assistant to the Rev. Darrell Horlock.
The parish, or rather Missionary District, was a most extensive one, and
soon Father Pat was riding-here, there and everywhere, holding services
in all sorts of places and making friends wherever he went. A little
Memoir, written by Mrs. Mercier, tells how a friend of his at Oxford had
given him this name, which stuck to him all his life, and was used by
everyone who knew him, in the new world as well as the old.
When first he arrived in Kamloops, some of the boys, looking upon the
new parson as a tenderfoot, and therefore fair game, thought they would
have some fun with him, and asked if he could ride; when Father Pat said
that he could, they offered him a mount, not, however, mentioning that
the horse was a buck-jumper. Mr. Irwin was an excellent horseman, and in
his Irish home could ride any horse bare-backed or otherwise, but a
buck-jumper was a new experience. He soon realized that a trick had been
played upon him, but this only put his back up, and, after he had been
twice thrown, the boys were heartily ashamed of themselves and
apologized, but Father Pat had established a character, and this
incident was published far and wide and was a most helpful introduction
for him.
The following letter I wrote to Mrs. Mercier in answer to her request
that I would tell her something about Mr. and Mrs. Irwin’s married life.
On January 8th, 1890, he was married to Miss Frances Stuart Innes,
daughter of Mr. J. H. Innes, head of H. M. Naval Establishment at
Esquimalt. My letter, published in “Father Pat,” is as follows:—
“You ask me to tell you what I can about Mr. Irwin’s short married life,
and the time afterwards that he spent at the See House as the Bishop’s
Secretary and Chaplain.
“Being away from all my papers, it is impossible for me to remember
exact dates, but I think it was about the New Year, 1890, that Mr. Irwin
brought his bride to New Westminster, to a little house not far from the
Church.
“Father Pat and his wife were like two children in the delight they took
in everything, in the pride they took in each other and their cosy
little home; and, although it was given to them to spend so short a time
together here below, that time was one of unclouded happiness. This I
say from observation and from what Mr. Irwin has since told me, for he
loved to talk to me of his wife and of their happiness, telling me all
sorts of anecdotes of their life.
“At the choral evensong on All Saints’ eve, 1890, the hymn ‘For all the
Saints who from their labours rest’ was sung for the first time. Mrs.
Irwin was not feeling well enough to attend the service, but walked over
to the Cathedral to listen from outside. She thought she had never heard
anything more beautiful than this hymn, the beauty of which lifts one
for a while above the small worries and harassments of earth, the last
triumphant verses carrying one almost into the Divine presence. ‘And to
think,’ as Mr. Irwin said to me, ‘that so soon afterwards it should have
been sung for her.’
“The little baby, whose advent was to fill up the cup of happiness
already so full, was not permitted to see the light of this world; and
on the evening of a Sunday in November, on which so many prayers had
been offered for the safety of mother and child, the little one was laid
at rest in a corner of the beautiful cemetery overlooking the Fraser
River and the snowclad mountains beyond. The grave is now marked by a
tiny stone on which is a touching inscription.
“Three days later Mrs. Irwin died, the shock being all the more
crushing, as she was supposed to be recovering. On the evening of the
funeral Mr. Irwin took up his residence at the See House, and here he
stayed until early in 1894, when he was called to Ireland, a few months
before the Bishop’s death, on account of his father’s severe illness.
“Of his work during these three years there is not much to be recorded.
It consisted of humdrum every-day drudgery, the writing and copying of
letters, interviews, parochial work (for he was curate of the
Cathedral), and numberless other things too insignificant to mention.
“The office, a large room in the See House, used for meetings and the
transaction of business, was where he was usually to be found, although
he had a private sitting-room. In the evenings he was usually surrounded
by a number of young fellows, for the most part either strangers or
those down on their luck.
“Our Sunday evening suppers at the See House were always motley
gatherings of all sorts and conditions of men; frugal meals they were,
as indeed was all our fare; but happy and restful after the day’s work
was over. It was a great amusement to Father Pat to tell us afterwards
of the remarks that were made, the great simplicity was so different
from what was supposed to be en regie in an episcopal household.
“Mr. Irwin’s sunny disposition made him a charming member of the family,
and the love between him and the Bishop was more that of a father and
son, and in all these years I never remember any friction dimming its
brightness.
“Mr. Irwin always believed the best of everyone, and his character was
to strangers a misleading one: he was so sweet-tempered, so anxious to
think others right and to yield his own way, that people were inclined
to think that he could be easily led and influenced; it was only when
they were brought up against his principles that they found themselves
face to face before a solid wall round which there was no way of
getting.
When he felt a thing to be right, there was no shadow of yielding. He
was from the first one of my truest and dearest friends; but though I
knew he was out of health, I had no idea that the end, for which he so
much longed, was so near. The sorrow for my personal loss could not but
be very great, and yet there was happiness in knowing that his many and
arduous labours were over, and that in the rest of Paradise he was
re-united to those loved ones gone before.
Mr. Irwin’s thoughtfulness for others was wonderful. On my first visit
to England after the Bishop’s death, he made a special journey over from
Ireland, so that there should be somebody to meet me at Liverpool.
During my stay in England he told me he did not intend to return to
British Columbia, that he could not face the work there without the
Bishop. I objected to this, saying that it would not be fair to the new
Bishop who was not then appointed; also I felt sure that this would be
contrary to the wishes of my husband, who always placed the welfare of
the Church before any private feelings. In the end, Mr. Irwin decided to
return, taking up work in the Kootenays, remaining there until his death
in 1902. The end was very sad in its loneliness. He was on his way to
Ireland very much out of health, nervously and physically, and he
alighted from the train just before reaching Montreal, probably craving
for the exercise to which he was so much accustomed. He was picked up by
a farmer with both feet badly frozen, taken to the Notre Dame Hospital,
but from the first his case was hopeless. In spite of great suffering,
he was most considerate and cheerful. The Sisters had notified the Rev.
Canon Wood of S. John’s, Montreal, when they found that their mysterious
patient (who refused to give his real name) belonged to the Church of
England, and during the last three days Canon Wood was often with him.
He lost consciousness only a few hours before death. Dr. D. A. Kingston,
who attended him, wrote: “For my own part, I have never seen so much
strength and so much gentleness combined.”
“In a corner of the beautiful little cemetery at Sapperton is a
semi-circular headstone, very low and small. In its centre is a sacred
symbol, the Cross enclosed in a circle. It is the grave of the nameless
little one who never saw the light; and beneath the symbol are these
touching lines:
‘No name had I, O Christ, to offer Thee,
Nor from Thy font received the sacred sign;
Yet in Thy Book of Life remember me,
I plead my Saviour’s Name instead of mine.’
‘Child of H. and F. S. Irwin.’
“Not far off lie the parents in one grave, with two white marble crosses
at head and foot.”
ON one of our journeys up country, whither we were going to attend a
gathering of Indians, we took with us as our travelling companion Miss
Woods, the eldest daughter of the Archdeacon of Columbia. There were
trains running irregularly on part of the western section of the C. P.
R., but the cantelever bridge where the line crosses the Fraser River
had not then been built. Crossing the river was made in a sort of basket
slung on wire ropes. Only two persons, we were told, were allowed to
cross at one time. Miss Woods, however, absolutely refused to go without
either the Bishop or me, and I would not permit him to go without me,
saying that if anything happened we would at least die together. The
situation was a difficult one, for we could not possibly leave Miss
Woods behind. The authorities finally allowed the three of us to crowd
into the basket, and we reached the further shore safely. We spent the
night in Lytton in the little one-room cottage, the Bishop and I
sleeping on the bare boards with our Gladstone for a pillow. There were
no blankets, these having been sent on ahead of us to the camp.
Another time, soon after the completion of the C. P. R., we were
journeying to fill an engagement at Chilliwack, and, while in the
Pullman car talking to friends, the car began to roll about in a very
curious fashion. Happily for all concerned, a quick-witted newsboy
pulled the cord connecting with the engine, causing the engineer to stop
the train, without, however, being able to see what was wrong. By that
time our car was on its side, having gone off the track. Prompt action
probably saved many lives, for, had we gone a few hundred yards further,
we should have been landed, or rather submerged, in the Fraser River. As
it was, it all happened so quickly and quietly that we were hardly
frightened, and were able to climb out of the car safely. It was
impossible for us to reach Chilliwack in time for our engagement, and
our only alternative was to tramp back over the tracks to Westminster
Junction.
In concluding his book, “Church Work in British Columbia,” Doctor Gowen
says: “With such a Bishop’s grave amongst us, the Diocese can never be
poor; as we gaze upon it under the shadow of the mighty trees of the
western fore t, it speaks to us of the continuity of a cause which
marches in victoriously, though every standard-bearer fall in the light.
We know that while God has given rest to His ser-wmts> their work is not
done, nor can their graves be cold.”
Now, thirty years later, more of the standard-bearers have fallen. Six
months after my husband’s death Archdeacon Woods was called to his rest,
and was later followed by the Rev. Richard Small, Archdeacon of Yale, a
Missionary to the Indians; by the Rev. H. Irwin, the Rev. Charles
Croucher, and the Rev. H. G. Fiennes-Clinton, whose name will always be
associated with S. James’, the mother Church of Vancouver, and who was
identified with everything that made for the well-being of the Church
and of the City of Vancouver.
All these men, of whose friendship I must ever feel proud, have died out
here. Archdeacon Woods, “Father Pat” and Mr. Croucher are buried not far
from my husband in the Sapperton cemetery, while Archdeacon Small’s body
lies underneath the spot where stood the altar of the first S. Paul’s
Church at Lytton. Father Clinton’s body rests in Vancouver’s beautiful
Mountain View cemetery. The second Bishop of New Westminster, the Right
Rev. John Dart, is also buried in the Sapperton Cemetery. These graves,
too, testify to the continuity of the cause for which they lived and
died.
These are a few of the reminiscences, interesting most of all to myself,
inasmuch as through them I live over again in memory, those happy bygone
days, but if, through them, a desire is awakened in others to learn more
about our Church’s work in British Columbia, the object will indeed have
been accomplished. |