A glance at a physical
map of the country will serve to show the relative position of the main
bodies of the North American forest, the division of the woods where the
wedge-shaped north-western corner of the plains comes in, and their
well-defined limit on the edge of the barren grounds, coincident with
the line of perpetual ground frost.
Characterised by a
predominance of coniferous trees, the great belt of forest country which
constitutes the hunting grounds of the Hudson’3 Bay Company, has its
nearest approach to the Arctic Ocean in the Mackenzie Valley, becoming
ever more and more stunted and monotonous until it merges at length into
the barren waste.
In its southern
extension, on meeting the northern extremity of the prairies, it
branches into two streams— the one directed along the Pacific coast line
and its great mountain chain; the other crossing the continent
diagonally between the boundaries of the plains and Hudson’s Bay towards
the Atlantic. On this course the forest soon receives important
accessions of new forms of trees, gradually introduced on approaching
the lake district, and loses much of its Sterner character.
The oak, beech, and
maple groves of the Canadas are equally characteristic of the forest
scenery of these regions, with the white pine or the hemlock spruce.
On approaching the
Atlantic seaboard, the forest is again somewhat impoverished by the
absence of those forms which seem to require an inland climate. In the
forests of Acadie many Canadian trees found farther westward in the same
latitude are wanting, or of so rare occurrence as to exercise no
influence on the general features of the country, such as the hickory
and the butternut. “In Nova Scotia,” says Professor Lawson, “the
preponderance of northern species is much greater than in corresponding
latitudes in Canada, and many of our common plants are in Western Canada
either entirely northern, or strictly confined to the great swamps,
whose cool waters and dense shade form a shelter for northern species.”
Though certain soils
and physical conformations of the country occasionally favour exclusive
growths of either, the woods of the Lower Provinces display a pleasing
mixture of what are locally termed hard and soft wood trees—in other
words, of deciduous and evergreen vegetation. Broken only by clearings
and settlements in the lines of alluvial valleys, roads, or important
fishing or mining stations, the forest still obtains over large sections
of the country, notwithstanding continued and often wanton mutilation by
the axe, and the immense area annually devastated by fire. The fierce
energy of American vegetation, if allowed, quickly fills up gaps, and
the burnt, blackened waste is soon re-clothed with the verdure of dense
copses of birch and aspen.
The true character of
the American forest is not to be studied from the road-side or along the
edges of the cleared lands. To read its mysteries aright, we must plunge
into its depths and live under its shelter through all the phases of the
seasons, leaving far behind the sound of the settlers axe and the
tinkling of his cattle-bells. The strange feelings of pleasure attached
to a life in the majestic solitudes of the pine forests of North America
cannot be attained by a merely marginal acquaintance.
On entering the woods,
the first feature which naturally strikes us is the continual occurrence
of dense copses of young trees, where a partial clearing has afforded a
chance to the profusely sown germs to spring up and perpetuate the
ascendancy of vegetation, though of course, in the struggle for
existence, but few of these would live to assert themselves as forest
trees. As we advance we perceive a taller and straighter growth, and
observe that many species, which in more civilised districts are mere
ornamental shrubs, throwing out their feathery branches close to the
ground, now assume the character of forest trees with clean straight
stems, though somewhat slender withal, engendering the belief that, left
by themselves in the Spen, they would offer but a short resistance to
wintry gales. The foliage predominates at the tree top; the stems
(especially of the spruces) throw out a profusion of spikes and dead
branchlets from the base upwards. Unhealthy situations, such as cold
swamps, are marked by the utmost confusion. Everywhere, and at every
variety of angle, trees lean and creak against their comrades, drawing a
few more years of existence through their support. The foot is being
perpetually lifted to stride over dead stems, sometimes so intricately
interwoven that the traveller becomes fairly pounded for the nonce.
This tangled
appearance, however, is an attribute of the spruce woods ; there is a
much more orderly arrangement under the hemlocks. These grand old trees
seem to bury their dead decently, and long hillocks in the mossy carpet
alone mark their ancestors' graves, which are generally further adorned
by the evergreen tresses of the creeping partridge-berry, or the still
more delicate festoons of the capillaire.
The busy occupation of
all available space in the American forest by a great variety of shrubs
and herbaceous plants, constitutes one of its principal charms—the
multitudes of blossoms and delicate verdure arising from the sea of moss
to greet our eyes in spring, little maple or birch seedlings starting up
from prostrate trunks or crannies of rock boulders, with wood violets,
and a host of the spring flora. The latter, otherwise rough and
shapeless objects, are thus invested with a most pleasing
appearance—transformed into the natural flower vases of the woods. The
abundance of the fern tribe, again, lends much grace to the woodland
scenery. In the swamp the cinnamon fern, 0. cinnamomea, with 0.
interrupta, attain a luxuriant growth; and the forest brook is often
almost concealed by rank' bushes of royal fern (0. regalis). Eocks in
woods are always topped with polypodium, whilst the delicate fronds of
the oak fern hang from their sides. Filix foemina and F. mas are common
everywhere, and, with many others of the list, present apparently
inappreciable differences to their European representatives.
There is a beauty
peculiar to this interesting order especially pleasing to the eye when
studying details of a landscape in which the various forms of vegetation
form the leading features. The luxuriant mosses and great lichens which
cover or cling to everything in the forest act a similar part. Even the
dismal black swamps are somewhat enlivened by the long beards of the
Usnea; fallen trees are often made quite brilliant by a profusion of
scarlet cups of Cladonia gracilis.
But now let us examine
further into the specific character of at least some of the individuals
of which the forest is composed. As we wander on we chance, perhaps, to
stumble upon what is called, in woodsman’s parlance, a “ blazed line ”—a
broad chip has been cut from the side of a tree, and the white surface
of the inner wood at once catches the eye of the watchful traveller; a
few paces farther on some saplings have been cut, and, keeping the
direction, we perceive in the distance another blazed mark on a trunk.
It may be a path leading from the settlement to some distant woodland
meadow of wild grass, or a line marking granted property, or it may lead
to a lot of timber trees marked for the destructive axe of the lumberer—perhaps
a grove of White Pine. This is the great object of the lumberer’s
search. Ascending a tree from which an extensive view of the wild
country is commanded, he marks the tall overbearing summits of some
distant pine grove (for this tree is singularly gregarious, and is
generally found growing in family groups), and having taken its bearings
with a compass, descends, and with his comrades proceeds on his errand
of destruction. In the neighbourhood of the coast, or on barren soil,
the pine is a stunted bushy tree, its branches feathering nearly to the
ground; but the pine of the forest ascends as a straight tower to the
height of some 120 feet, two or three massive branches being thrown out
in twisted and fantastic attitudes. As if aware of its proud position as
monarch of the forest, it is often found on the summit of a precipice ;
and these conspicuous positions, which it seems to prefer, have doomed
this noble specimen of the cone-bearing evergreens to ultimate
extermination as certain as that of the red man or the larger game of
this continent. Some half-century since, the pine was found on the
margins of all the large lakes and streams, but of late the axe and
devastating fires have, as it were, driven the tree far back into the
remoter solitudes of the forest, and long and expensive expeditions must
be undertaken ere the head-quarters of a gang of lumber-men can be fixed
upon for a winter employment. At the head waters of some insignificant
brook, and in the neighbourhood of good timber, these hardy sons of the
forest fell the trees, and cut and square them into logs, dragging them
to the edge of the stream, into whose swollen waters they are rolled at
the breaking up of winter and melting of the snow, to find their way
through almost endless difficulties to the sea. That most useful animal
in the woods, the ox, accompanies the lumberers to their remote forest
camps, and drags the logs to the side of the stream. It is really
wonderful to watch these animals, well managed, performing their
laborious tasks in the forest: urged on and directed solely by the
encouraging voice of the teamster, the honest team drag the huge
pine-log over the rough inequalities of the ground, over rocks, and
through treacherous swamps and thickets, with almost unaccountable ease
and safety, where the horse would at once become confused, frightened,
and injured, besides falling on
THE LUMBERER’S CAMP IN WINTER.
the score of
comparative strength. Slowly but surely the ox performs incredible feats
of draught in the woods, and asks for no more care than the shelter of a
rough shed near the lumberers’ camp, with a store of coarse wild hay,
and a drink at the neighbouring brook.
This aristocrat of the
forest, Pinus strobus, refuses to grow in the black swamp or open bog,
which it leaves to poverty-stricken spruces and larches, nor in its
communities will it tolerate much undergrowth. Pine woods are peculiarly
open and easy to traverse. Bracken, and but little else, grows beneath,
and the foot treads noiselessly on a soft slippery surface of fallen
tassels. A peculiarly soft subdued light pervades these groves—a ray
here and there falling on the white blossoms of the pigeon berry (Cornus
Canadensis) in summer, or, later, on its bright scarlet clusters of
berries, sets frequent sparkling gems in our path. That beautiful forest
music termed soughing in Scotland, in reference to the sound of the wind
passing over the foliage of the Scotch fir, is heard to perfection
amongst the American pines.
The white pine,
according to Sir J. Eichardson, ranges as far to the north ward as the
south shore of Lake Wini-peg. “ Even in its northern termination,” he
says, “ it is still a stately tree."
The Hemlock, or Hemlock
Spruce (Abies Canadensis of Michaux), is a common tree in the woodlands
of Acadie, affecting moist mossy slopes in the neighbourhood of lakes,
though generally mixing with other evergreens in all situations. It is
found, however, of largest growth (80 feet), and growing in large
groves, principally in the former localities, where it vies with the
white pine in its solid proportions. The deeply grained columnar trunk
throws off its first branches some 50 feet above the ground, and the
light feathery foliage clings round the summit of an old tree in dense
masses, from which protrude the bare twisted limbs which abruptly
terminate the column.
Perched high up in its
branches may be often seen in winter the sluggish porcupine, whose
presence aloft is first detected by the keen eye of the Indian through
the scratches made by its claws on the trunk in ascending its favourite
tree to feed on the bark and leaves of the younger shoots.
Large groves of hemlock
growing on woodland slopes present a noble appearance; their tall
columns never bend before the gale. There is a general absence of
undergrowth, thus affording long vistas through the shady grove of
giants; and the softened light invests the interior of these vast forest
cathedrals with an air of solemn mystery, whilst the even spread of
their mossy carpet affords appreciable relief to the footsore hunter.
The human voice sounds as if confined within spacious and lofty halls.
Hawthorne, describing
the wooded solitudes in which he loved to wander, thus speaks of a grove
of these trees :—“These ancient hemlocks are rich in many things beside
birds. Indeed, their wealth in this respect is owing mainly, no doubt,
to their rank vegetable growths, their fruitful swamps, and their dark,
sheltered retreats.
“Their history is of an
heroic cast. Kavished and torn by the tanner in his thirst for bark,
preyed upon by the lumberman, assaulted and beaten back by the settler,
still their spirit has never been broken, their energies never paralysed.
Not many years ago a public highway passed through them, but it was at
no time a tolerable road ; trees fell across it, mud and limbs choked it
up, till finally travellers took the hint and went around ; and now,
walking along its deserted course, I see only the footprints of coons,
foxes, and squirrels.
“Nature loves such
woods, and places her own seal upon them. Here she shows me what can be
done with ferns and mosses and lichens. The soil is marrowy and full of
innumerable forests. Standing in these fragrant aisles, I feel the
strength of the vegetable kingdom and am awed by the deep and
inscrutable processes of life going on so silently about me.
“No hostile forms with
axe or spud now visit these solitudes. The cows have half-hidden ways
through them, and know where the best browsing is to be had. In spring
the farmer repairs to their bordering of maples to make sugar; in July
and August women and boys from all the country about penetrate the old
Barkpeeling for raspberries and blackberries; and I know a youth who
wonderingly follows their languid stream casting for trout.
“In like spirit, alert
and buoyant, on this bright June morning go I also to reap my
harvest,—pursuing a sweet more delectable than sugar, fruit more savoury
than berries, and game for another palate than that tickled by trout".
Hemlock bark,
possessing highly astringent properties, is much used in America for
tanning purposes, almost entirely superseding that of the oak. Its
surface is very rough with deep grooves between the scales. Of a light
pearly gray outside, it shows a madder brown tint when chipped. The
sojourner in the woods seeks the dry and easily detached bark which
clings to an old dead hemlock as a great auxiliary to his stock of fuel
for the camp fire; it burns readily and long, emitting an intense heat,
and so fond are the old Indians of sitting round a small conical pile of
the ignited bark in their wigwams, that it bears in their language the
sobriquet of “the old Grannie.”
The hemlock, as a
shrub, is perhaps the most ornamental of all the North American
evergreens. It has none of that tight, stiff, old-fashioned appearance
so generally seen in other spruces: the graceful foliage droops loosely
and irregularly, hiding the stem, and, when each spray is tipped with
the new season's shoot of the brightest Sea-green imaginable, the
appearance is very beautiful. The young cones are likewise of a delicate
green.
This tree has a wide
range in the coniferous woodlands of North America, extending from the
Hudson's Bay territory to the mountains of Georgia. The great southerly
extension of the northern forms of trees on the south-east coast, is due
to the direction of the Alleghanian range, which, commencing in our own
province of vegetation, carries its flora as far south as 35 degrees
north latitude, elevation affording the same conditions of growth as
distance from the equator.
It would appear that
this giant spruce has no analogous form in the Old World as have others
of the genus Abies found in the New. All the genera of conifers,
however, here contain a larger number of trees, which, though they are
exceedingly similar in general appearance, are specifically distinct
from their European congeners.
Under the Arctic
circle, as pointed out by Sir J. Richardson, and beyond the limits of
tree growth, but little appreciable difference exists in circumpolar
vegetation, and so we recognise in the luxuriant eryptogamous flora of
the forests we are describing most of the mosses and lichens found
across the Atlantic, which here attain such a noticeable development. As
with nobler forms, America, however, adds many new species to the list.
.
The Black Spruce is one
of the most conspicuous and characteristic 1 forest trees of
North-Eastern America, forming a large portion of the coniferous forest
growth, and found in almost every variety of circumstance. Sometimes it
appears in mixed woods, of beautiful growth and of great height, its
numerous branches drooping in graceful curves from the apex towards the
ground, which they sweep to a distance of twenty to thirty feet from the
stem, whilst the summit terminates in a dense arrow head, on the short
sprays of which are crowded heavy masses of cones. At others, it is
found almost the sole growth, covering large tracts of country, the
trees standing thick, with straight clean stems and but little foliage
except at the summit. Then there is the black spruce swamp, where the
tree shows by its contortions, its unhealthy foliage, and its stem and
limbs shaggy with usnea, the hardships of its existence. Again on the
open bog grows the black spruce, scarcely higher than a cabbage sprout
—the light olive-green foliage living on the compressed summit only,
whilst the grey dead twigs below are crowded with pendulous moss; yet
even here, amidst the cold sphagnum, Indian cups, and cotton grass, the
tree lives to an age which would have given it a proud position in the
dry forest. Lastly, in the fissure of a granite boulder may be seen its
hardy seedling; and the little plant has a far better chance of becoming
a tree than its brethren in the swamp; for, one day, as frost and
increasing soil open the fissure, its roots will creep out and fasten in
the earth beneath.
In unhealthy situations
a singular appearance is frequently assumed by this tree. Stunted, of
course, it throws out its arms in the most tortuous shapes, suddenly
terminating in a dense mass of innumerable branchlets of a rounded
contour like a beehive, displaying short, thick, light green foliage.
The summit of the tree generally terminates in another bunch. The stem
and arms are profusely covered with lichens and usnea. As a valuable
timber tree the black spruce ranks next to the pine, attaining a height
of seventy to a hundred feet. Being strong and elastic, it forms
excellent material for spars and masts, and is converted into all
descriptions of sawed lumber—deals, boards, and scantlings. From its
young sprays is prepared the decoction, fermented with molasses, the
celebrated spruce beer of the American settler, a cask of which every
good farmer’s wife keeps in the hot, thirsty days of haymaking. To the
Indian, the roots of this tree, which shoot out to a great distance
immediately under the moss, are his rope, string and thread. With them
he ties his bundle, fastens the birch-bark coverings to the poles of his
wigwam, or sews the broad sheets of the same material over the ashen
ribs of his canoe.
For ornamental purposes
in the open and cultivated glebe the black spruce is very appropriate.
The numerous and gracefully curved branches, the regular and acute cone
shape of the mass, its clear purplish-grey stem, and the beautiful bloom
with which its abundant cones are tinged in June, all enhance the
picturesqueness of a tree which is long-lived, and, moreover, never
outgrows its ornamental appearance, unless confined in dense woodland
swamps.
The bark of the black
spruce is scaly, of various shades of purplish-grey, sometimes
approaching to a reddish hue, hence, doubtless, suggesting a variety
under the name of red spruce, which is in reality a form depending on
situation. In the latter, the foliage being frequently of a lighter
tinge of green, strengthens the supposition. No specific differences
have, however, been detected between the trees.
The White Spruce or Sea
Spruce of the Indians (Abies alba, Mich.) is a conifer of an essentially
boreal character. Indeed in its extension into our own woodlands it
appears to prefer bleak and exposed situations. It thrives on our rugged
Atlantic shores, and grows on exposed and brine-washed sands where no
other vegetation appears, and hence is very useful, both as a shelter to
the land, and as holding it against the encroachment of the sea. Its
dark glaucous foliage assumes an almost impenetrable aspect under these
circumstances. I have seen groves of white spruce on the shore, the
foliage of which was swept back over the land by prevailing gales from
the south-west, nearly parallel to the ground, and so compressed and
flattened at the top that a man could walk on them as on a platform,
whilst the shelter beneath was complete.
The Balsam Fir growing
in these situations assumes a very similar appearance in the density and
colour of its foliage and trunk to the white spruce, from which,
however, it can be quickly distinguished, on inspection, by the pustules
on the bark and its erect cones. In the forest the white spruce is rare
in comparison with the black, whose place it however altogether usurps
on the sand hills bordering the limit of vegetation in the far
north-west. The former tree prefers humid and rocky woods.
Our Silver Fir (Abies
balsamea, Marshall) is so like the European picea that they would pass
for the same species were it not for the balsam pustules which
characterise the American tree. Both show the same silvery lines under
the leaf on each side of the mid-rib, which, glistening in the sun as
the branches are blown upwards by the wind, give the tree its name. We
find it in moist woods—growing occasionally in the provinces to a height
of sixty feet where it has plenty of room—a handsome, dark-foliaged
tree; short-lived, however, and often falling before a heavy gale,
showing a rotten heart.
The silver fir is
remarkable for the horizontal regularity of its branches, and the
general exact conical formation of the whole tree. An irregularity in
the growth of the foliage, similar to that occurring in the black
spruce, is frequently to be found in the fir. A contorted branch,
generally half-way up the stem, terminates in a multitude of interlaced
sprays which are, every summer, clothed with very delicate, flaccid,
light-green leaves, forming a beehive shape like that of the spruce. It
may be noticed, however, that whilst this bunch foliage is perennial in
the case of the latter tree, that of the fir is annually deciduous. Up
to a certain age the silver fir in the forest is a graceful shrub. Its
flat delicate sprays form the best bedding for the woodman's couch; the
fragrance of its branches, when long cut or exposed to the sun, is
delicious, and their soft elasticity is most grateful to the limbs of
the wearied hunter on his return to camp. The bark of the larger trees,
peeling readily in summer, is used in sheets to cover the lumberer's
shanty, which he now takes the opportunity to build in prospect of the
winter’s campaign.
The large, erect,
sessile cones of the balsam fir are very beautiful in the end of May,
when they are of a light sea-green colour, which, changing in June to
pale lavender, in August assumes a dark slaty tint. They ripen in the
fall; and the scale being easily detached, the seeds are soon scattered
by the autumnal gales, leaving the axis bare and persistent on the
branch for many years. In June each strobile is surmounted with a large
mass of balsam exudation.
A casual observer, on
passing the edges of the forest, cannot help remarking the brown
appearance of the spruce tops in some seasons when the cones are
unusually abundant. They are crowded together in bushels, and often kill
the upper part of .the tree and its leading shoot, after which a new
leader appears to be elected amongst the nearest tier of branchlets to
continue the upward growth. From such a crop the Indians augur an
unusually hard winter, through much the same process of reasoning as
that which the English countryman adopts in prophesying a rigorous
season from an abundant crop of haws and other autumnal hedge fruits,
and generally with about the same chance of fulfilment.
No less majestic than
the coniferse are many of the species of deciduous trees, or “hard
woods,” which, intermingled with the former, impart such a pleasing
aspect to the otherwise gloomy fir forests of British North America.
Growing, as the firs, with tall straight stems, and struggling upwards
for the influence of the sunlight on their lofty foliage, the yellow and
black birches aspire to the greatest elevation, attaining a height of
seventy or eighty feet. Mixed with these are beeches and elms; and in
many districts the country is covered with an almost exclusive growth of
the useful rock or sugar-maple.
In these <e mixed
woods,” as they are locally termed (indicative, it is said, of a good
soil), the prettiest contrast is afforded by the pure white stems of the
canoe birch (Betula papyracea) against the spruce boughs; and, as these
are generally open woods, the latter come sweeping down to the ground.
The young stems of the yellow birch (B. excelsa) gleam like gilded rods
in sunlight; their shining yellow bark looks as though it had been fresh
coated with varnish.
These American birches
are a beautiful family of trees, particularly the canoe or paper birch,
so called from the readiness with which its folds of bark will separate
from the stem like thick sheets of paper. Smooth and round, without a
knot or branch for some forty feet from the ground, is the tree which
the Indian anxiously looks for; it affords him the broad sheets of bark
which cover his wigwam and the frame of his canoe, and long journeys
does he often undertake in search of it. The bark is thick as leather,
and as pliable, and in the summer can readily be separated for any
distance up the stem. From it the Indians make the boxes and
curiosities, by the sale of which these poor creatures endeavour to earn
a livelihood. Their fanciful goods cannot, however, compete with the
useful productions of civilised labour, and are only bought by the
stranger and the charitable. The white birch of the forest is as closely
connected with the interests of the Indian as the pine is with those of
the lumberer, and the former dreads the ultimate comparative scarcity of
the birch as the latter does that of the noble timber-tree.
From the mountains of
Virginia, on the south-east, this important tree ranges northwardly in
Atlantic America far into the interior of Labrador, whilst in the
extreme north-west it ascends the valley of the Mackenzie as far as 69
degrees N. lat.
In travelling the
forest in summer it is quite refreshing to enter the bright sheen of a
birch-covered hill, exchanging the close resinous atmosphere of heated
fir-woods for its cool open vaults. The transition is often quite sudden
—the scene changing from gloom to brightness with a magical effect. Such
a contrast is presented to the marked lights and shades of the pine
forest! The silvery stems with their light canopy of sunlit leaves,
through the breaks in which the blue sky shows quite dark as a
background, the innumerable lights falling on the light green
undergrowth of plants and shrubs beneath, and the general absence of
appreciable lines of shadow everywhere, stamp these hard-wood hills with
an almost fairyland appearance.
If at all near the
borders of civilisation, we soon strike a “hauling road,” leading from
such localities into the settlements—a track broad enough for a sled and
pair of oxen to pass over when the farmer comes in winter to transport
his firewood over the snow. And a goodly stock indeed he requires to
battle with the cold of a North American winter in the backwoods; logs,
such as it would take two men to lift, of birch, beech or maple, are
piled on his ample hearth; the abundance of fuel and the readiness with
which he can bring it from the neighbouring bush, is one of his greatest
blessings. He deserves a few comforts, for perhaps his lifetime, and
that of his father, has been spent in redeeming the few acres round the
dwelling from the fangs of gigantic stumps and boulders of rock. A patch
of potatoes, an acre or so of buckwheat, and another of oats, and a few
rough-looking cattle, are his sources of wealth, or perhaps a rough saw
mill, constructed far up in the forest brook, and the whirr of whose
circular saw disturbs only the wild animals of the surrounding woods.
How vividly is recalled
to my memory the delight experienced on many occasions by our tired,
belated party, returning from a hunting camp through unknown woods, on
finding one of these logging roads, anticipating in advance the kindly
welcome of the invariably hospitable backwoods farmer, towards whose
clearings it was sure to trend. Perhaps for hours before we had almost
despaired of quitting the forest by nightfall. On sending the Indians
into tree-tops to reconnoitre, the disheartening cry would be, “Woods
all round as far as we can see.” Further on, perhaps, we should hear
that there were “Lakes all round!” Worse again, for then a wearisome
detour must be made. But at last some one finds signs of chopping, then
a stack of cord-wood, and then we strike a regular blazed line. Now the
spirits of every one revive, and we soon emerge on the forest road with
its clean-cut track, corduroy platforms through swamps, and rude log
bridges over the brooks, which brings us within the welcome sound of
cattle bells, and at length to the broad glare of the clearings.
Before leaving the
woods, however, we may not omit to notice those characteristic trees of
the American forest, the maples, particularly that most important member
of the family, the rock or sugar maple—Acer saccharinum. Found generally
interspersed with other hard-wood trees, this tree is seen of largest
and most frequent growth in the Acadian forests on the slopes of the
Cobequid hills, and other similar ranges in Nova Scotia, often growing
together in large clumps. Such groves are termed “Sugaries,” and are
yearly visited by the settlers for the plentiful supply of sap which, in
the early spring, courses between the bark and the wood, and from which
the maple sugar is extracted. Towards the end of March, when winter is
relaxing its hold, and the hitherto frozen trees begin to feel the
influence of the sun, the settlers, old and young, turn into the woods
with their axes, sap-troughs, and boilers, and commence the operation of
sugar-making. A fine young maple is selected; an oblique incision made
by two strokes of the axe at a few feet from the ground, and the pent-up
sap immediately begins to trickle and drop from the wound. A wooden
spout is driven in, and the trough placed underneath; next morning a
bucketful of clear sweet sap is removed and taken to the boiling-house.
Sometimes two or three hundred trees are tapped at a time, and require
the attention of a large party of men. At the camp, the sap is carefully
boiled and evaporated until it attains the consistency of syrup. At this
stage much of it is used by the settlers under the name of “maple honey,
or molasses.” Further boiling; and on pouring small quantities on to'
pieces of ice, it suddenly cools and contracts, and in this stage is
called “ maple-wax,” which is much prized as a sweetmeat. Just beyond
this point the remaining sap is poured into moulds, in which as it cools
it forms the solid saccharine mass termed “maple sugar.” Sugar may also
be obtained, though inferior in quality, from the various birches; but
the sap of these trees is slightly acidulous, and is more often
converted into vinegar.
White or soft maple (A.
dasycarpum), and the red flowering maple (A. rubrum), are equally common
trees. Both contribute largely to the gorgeous colouring of the fall,
and the latter species clothes its leafless sprays in the spring almost
as brilliantly with scarlet blossoms. Before these fade, a circlet of
light green leaves appears below, when a terminal shoot has a fitting
place in an ornamental bouquet of spring flowers.
As a rule, all the
Aceracese are noted for breadth of leaf, and, being even more abundant
than the birches in the forests of Acadie, the solid appearance of the
rolling hard-wood hills is thus accounted for. These great swelling
billows in a sea of verdure form the grandest feature of American forest
scenery. In Vermont and New Hampshire, to the westward of our provinces,
they become perfectly tempestuous. The black arrow-heads of the spruces,
or the slanting tops of the pines, pierce through them distinctly
enough, but the summits of the hard-woods are blended together in one
vast canopy of light green foliage, in which the eye vainly seeks to
trace individual form.
Amongst the varieties
of scenery presented by our wild districts, I would notice the burnt
barrens. These sometimes extend for many miles, and are most dreary in
their appearance and painfully tedious to travel through. Years ago,
perhaps, some fierce fire has run through the evergreen forest, and its
ravages are now shown in the spectacle before us. Gaunt white stems
stand in groups, presenting a most ghost-like appearance, and pointing
with their bleached branches at the prostrate remains of their
companions, which, strewed and mixed with matted bushes and briars, lie
beneath, rendering progress almost impossible to the hunter or traveller.
In granitic districts,
where the scanty soil—the result of ages of cryptogamous vegetation and
decay—has been clean licked up by the fire, even the energetic power of
American vegetation appears utterly prostrated for a period, as if
hopeless of again assimilating the desert to the standard of surrounding
features.
As a contrast to such a
scene, and in conclusion to our dissertation on the forests, turn we to
the smiling intervale scenery of her alluvial valleys, for which Acadie
is so famous. Many of the rivers, coursing smoothly through long tracts
of the country, are broadly margined by level meadows with rich soils,
productive of excellent pasture. The banks are adorned with orange
lilies; and the meadows, which extend between the water and the uplands,
shaded by clumps of elm (Ulmus americana).
Almost the whole charm
of these intervales (in an artistic point of view) is due to the groups
of this graceful tree, by which they are adorned. Its stem, soon forking
and diverging like that of the English hornbeam, nevertheless carries
the main bulk of the foliage to a good elevation, the ends of the middle
and lower branches bending gracefully downwards. The latter often hang
for several yards, quite perpendicularly, with most delicate hair-like
branchlets and small leaves. We have but one elm in this part of
America; yet no one at first sight would ever connect the tall trunk and
twisted top branches of the forest-growing tree with the elegant form of
the dweller in the pasture lands.
Whether from
appreciation of its beauty, or in view of the shade afforded their
cattle, which always congregate in warm weather under its pendulous
branches, the settlers agree in sparing the elm growing in such
situations.
These long fertile
valleys are further adorned by copses of alders, dogwood, and willows—favourite
haunts of the American woodcock, which here alone finds subsistence, the
earth-worm being never met with in the forest.
ELMS IN AN INTERVALE.
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