THE BROOK TROUT
Salmo Fontinalis (Mitchell.)
The following description
of this fish—and I believe the latest—appears in the “Transactions of
the Nova Scotian Institute of Natural Science for 1866/’ and is due to
Dr. J. Bernard Gilpin, M.D.—
“The trout, as usually
seen in the lakes about Halifax, are in length from ten to eighteen
inches, and weight from half a pound to two pounds, though these
measurements are often exceeded or lessened. The outline of back,*
starting from a rather round and blunt nose, rises gradually to the
insertion of the dorsal fin, about two-thirds of the length of the head
from the nose ; it then gradually declines to the adipose fin, and about
a length and a half from that runs straight to form a strong base for
the tail. The breadth of the tail is about equal to that of the head.
Below, the outline runs nearly straight from the tail to the anal fin;
from thence it falls rapidly, to form a line more or less convex (as the
fish is in or out of season), and returns to the head. The
inter-maxillary very short, the maxillary long with the free end
sharp-pointed, the posterior end of the opercle is more angular than in
the S. Salar, the lower jaw shorter than upper when closed, appearing
longer when open. The eye large, about two diameters from tip of nose;
nostrils double, nearer the snout than the eye. Of the fins, the dorsal
has ten or eleven rays, not counting the rudimentary ones, in shape
irregularly rhomboid, but the free edge rounded or curved outward: the
adipose fin varies, some sickle-shaped with free end very long, others
having it very straight and short. The caudal fin gently curved rather
than cleft, but differing in individuals. Of the lower fins they all
have the first ray very thick and flat, and always faced white with a
black edge, the other rays more or less red. The head is blunt, and back
rounded when looked down upon. The teeth are upon the inter-maxillary
bone, maxillary bones, the palatine, and about nine on the tongue. There
are none so-called vomerine teeth, though now and then we find one tooth
behind the arch of the palate, where they are sometimes irregularly
bunched together. The colour varies; but through all the variations
there are forms of colour that, being always persistent, must be
regarded as typical. There are always vermilion spots on the sides;
there are always other spots, sometimes decided in outline, in others
diffused into dapples, but always present. The caudal and dorsal fins
are always spotted, and of the prevailing hue of the body. The lower
fins have always broad white edges, lined with black and coloured with
some modification of red. The chin and upper part of the belly are
always white. With these permanent markings, the body colour varies from
horn colour to greenish-grey, blue-grey, running into azure, black, and
black with warm red on the lower parts, dark green with lower parts
bright yellow; and, lastly, in the case of young fish, with vertical
bands of dusky black. The spots are very bright and distinct when in
high condition or spawning ; faint, diffused, and running into dapples
when in poor condition. In the former case all the hues are most vivid,
and heightened by profuse nacre.' In the other the spots are very pale
yellowish-white, running on the back into vermicular lines. The iris m
all is dark brown. I have seen the rose or red-coloured ones at all
times of the year. The young of the first year are greenish horn colour,
with brown vertical stripes and bright scarlet fins and tail, already
showing the typical marks and spots, and also the vermilion specs. Fin
rays D. 13, P. 13, Y. 8, A. 10 ; gill rays 12. Scales very small; the
dorsal has two rudimentary rays, ten or eleven long ones, varying in
different fish. Typical marks—axillary plate nearly obsolete, free end
of maxillary sharp, bars in young, vermilion specs, both young and adult
lower fins red with white and black edge.”
To the above description
I would add that the numerous yellow spots which prevail in every
specimen of S. Fontinalis vary from , bright golden to pale primrose,
that the colour of the specs inclines more to carmine than vermilion,
and that in bright, well-conditioned fish, the latter are surrounded by
circlets of pale and purest azure.
It will thus be seen that
the American brook trout is one of the most beautiful of fresh-water
fishes. Just taken from his element and laid on the moist moss by the
edge of the forest stream, a more captivating form can scarcely be
imagined. His sides appear as if studded with gems. The brilliant brown
eye and bronzy gill-covers reflect golden light; and the gradations of
the dark green back, with its fantastic labyrinthine markings, to the
soft yellow beneath, are marked by a central roseate tinge inclining to
lavender or pale mauve.
This species abounds
throughout the Northern States and British provinces, showing a great
variety as to form and colour (both external and of the flesh) according
to locality. In the swampy bog-hole the trout is black ; his flesh of a
pale yellowish-white, flabby and insipid. In low-lying forest lakes
margined by swamp, where from a rank soft bottom the water-lilies crop
up and almost conceal the surface near the shores, he is the same coarse
and spiritless fish. Worthless for the camp frying-pan, we leave him to
the tender mercies of the mink, the eel, and the leech. The bright, bold
trout of the large lakes, is a far different fish. His comparatively
small and well-shaped head, followed by an arched, thick shoulder, depth
of body, and brilliant colouring; the spirited dash with which he seizes
his prey, and, finally, the bright salmon-pink hue of his delicate
flesh, make him an object of attraction to both sportsman and epicure.
Such fish we find in the clearest water, where the shores of the lake
are fringed with granite boulders, with beaches of white sand, or
disintegrated granite, where the rush and the water-weeds are only seen
in little sheltered coves, where the face of the lake is dotted with
rocky, bush-covered islands, and where there are great, cool depths to
which he can retreat when sickened by the heat of the surface-water at
midsummer.
Though more a lacustrine
than a river fish, seldom attaining any size if confined to running
water between the sea and impassable falls, the American trout is found
to most perfection and in greatest number in lakes which communicate
with the sea, and allow him to indulge in his well ascertained
predilection for salt, or rather brackish tidal-water. A favourite spot
is the debouchure of a lake, where the narrowing water gradually
acquires velocity of current, and where the trout lie in skulls and give
the greatest sport to the fly-fisher.
In a recent notice of S.
Fontinalis from the pen of an observant sportsman and naturalist
appearing in “Land and Water,” this fish is surmised to be a char. Its
claim to be a member of the Salveline group is favoured by reference to
its similar habits in visiting the tidal portions of rivers on the part
of the char of Norway and Sweden, its similar deep red colouring on the
belly, and general resemblance. I am quite of “Ubique’s” opinion
touching this point, and think the common name of the American fish
should be char. Indeed, I find the New York char is one of the names it
already bears in- an American sporting work, though no comparison is
made. Besides its sea-going propensities, its preferring dark, still
waters, to gravelly shallow streams, and its resplendent colours when in
season, a most important point of resemblance to the char would seem to
be the minuteness of its scales.
The American trout spawns
in October and November in shallow water, and on gravel, sand, or mud,
according to the nature of the soil at the bottom of his domains.
In fishing for trout
through the ice in winter to add to our camp fare, I have taken them at
the “run in” to a large lake, the females full of spawn apparently ready
to drop at the end of January, and all in firm condition. This would
seem a curious delay of the spawning season : my Indian stated that
trout spawn in early spring as well as in the fall. They congregate at
the head of a lake in large numbers in winter, and readily take bait, a
piece of pork, or a part of their own white throats, let down on a hook
through the ice. In such localities they get a good livelihood by
feeding on the caddis-worms which crawl plentifully over the rocks under
water.
TROUT FISHING
Before the ice is fairly
off the lakes—and then a few days must be allowed for the ice-water to
run off— there is no use in attempting to use the fly for trout fishing
in rivers or runs, though eager disciples of Walton may succeed in
hauling out a few ill-fed, sickly looking fish from spots of open water
by diligently tempting with the worm at an earlier date. Indeed trout
may be taken with bait through the ice throughout the winter, but they
prove worthless in the eating. But after the warm rain storms of April
have performed their mission, and the soft west wind has coursed over
the surface of the water, then may the fisher proceed to the head of the
forest lake and cast his flies over the eddying pool where the brook
enters, and where the hungry trout, aroused to appetite, are congregated
to seek for food.
“Now, when the first foul
torrent of the brooks,
Swell’d with the vernal rains, is ebbed away,
And, whitening down their mossy-tinctur’d stream
Descends the billowy foam: now is the time,
While yet the dark-brown water aids the guile,
To tempt the trout.”
About the 10th of May in
Nova Scotia, when warm hazy weather occurs with westerly wind, the trout
in all the lakes and streams (an enumeration of which would be
impossible from their extraordinary frequency of occurrence in this
province) are in the best mood for taking the fly; and, moreover, full
of the energy of new found life, which appears in these climates to
influence such animals as have been dormant during the long winter,
equally with the suddenly outbursting vegetation. A few days later, and
the great annual feast of the trout commences—the feast of the May-fly.
Emerging from their cases all round the shores, rocky shallows, and
islands, the May-flies now cover the surface of the lakes in multitudes,
and are constantly sucked in by the greedy trout, which leave their
haunts, and disperse themselves over the lake in search of the alighting
insects. Although the fish thus gorge themselves, and, for some days
after the flies have disappeared, are quite apathetic, they derive much
benefit in flesh and flavour therefrom. The abundance of fish would
scarcely be credited till one sees the countless rises over the surface
of the water constantly recurring during the prevalence of the May-fly.
“It’s a steady boil of them,” says the ragged urchin with a long
“troutin’-pole,” as he calls his weapon, in one hand, and a huge cork at
the end of a string with a bunch of worms attached, in the other.
There is now no one more
likely place than another for a cast. Still sport may be had with the
artificial May-fly, especially in sheltered coves, where the fish resort
when a strong wind blows the insects off the open water. Some anglers of
the more patient type will take fish at this time on the lake by sitting
on rocks, and gently flipping out a very fine line with minute hooks, to
which the living May-fly is attached by means of a little adhesive fir
balsam, as far as they can on the surface of the water, where they float
till some passing fish rises and sucks in the bait. However the best
sport is to be obtained on the lakes a few days after the “May-fly
glut,” as it is termed, is over.
The May and stone flies
of America, which make their appearance about the same time, much
resemble the ephemeral representatives of their order found in the old
country. The May-fly of the New World is, however, different to the
green drake, being of a glossy black colour.
With the exception of
these two insects, we have no .representatives of natural flies in our
American fly-books. The scale is large and the style gaudy; and, if the
bunch of bright feathers, which sometimes falls over the head of Salmo
fontinalis, were so presented to the view of a shy English trout, I
question whether he would ever rise to the surface again. Artificial
flies are sold in most provincial towns in the Lower Provinces, and are
much sought for by the rising generation, who, however, often scorn the
store-rod, contenting themselves with a good pliable wattle cut in situ.
It is surprising to see the bunches of trout the settlers' “sonnies"
will bring home from some little lake, perhaps only known to themselves,
which they may have discovered back in the woods when hunting up the
cows; and the satisfaction with which the little ragged urchin will show
you barefoot the way to your fishing grounds, skipping over the sharp
granite rocks strewed in the path, and brushing through fir thickets
with the greatest resolution, all to become possessed of a bunch of your
flies and a small length of old gut.
The cast of flies best
adapted for general use for trout-fishing in Nova Scotia consists of the
red hackle or palmer, a bright bushy scarlet fly, with perhaps a bit of
gold twist or tinsel further to enhance its charms, a brown palmer, and
a yellow-bodied fly of wool with mallard wings. The latter wing on a
body of claret wool with gold tinsel is also excellent. Many other and
gaudier flies are made and sold to tempt the fish later on in the year :
they are quite fanciful, and resemble nothing in nature. I cannot
recommend the artificial minnow for use in this part of the world,
though trout will take them. They are always catching on submerged
rocks, and are very troublesome in many ways. The most successful minnow
I ever used was one made on the spot by an Indian who was with me after
moose—a common large trout-hook thickly bound round with white worsted,
a piece of tinfoil covering the under part, and a good bunch of
peacock’s herl inserted at the head, bound down along the back, and
secured at the end of the shank, leaving a little projection to
represent the tail. It was light as a feather, and could be thrown very
accurately anywhere—a great advantage when you find yourself back in the
woods and wish to pull a few trout for the camp frying-pan from out a
little pond overhung with bushes. The fish took it most greedily.
The common trout is to be
met with in every lake, or even pond, throughout the British Provinces.
One cannot walk far through the depths of a forest district before
hearing the gurgling of a rill of water amongst stones beneath the moss.
Following the stream, one soon comes on a sparkling forest brook
overhung by waving fern fronds, and little pools with a bottom of golden
gravel. The trout is sure to be here, and on your approach darts under
the shelter of the projecting roots of the mossy bank. A little further,
and a winding lane of still water skirted by graceful maples and
birches, leads to the open expanses of the lake, where the gloom of the
heavy woods is exchanged for the clear daylight. This is the “run in,”
in local phraseology, and here the lake trout resort as a favourite
station at all times of the year. A basket of two or three dozen of
these speckled beauties is your reward for having found your way to
these wild but enchanting spots.
Though, as has been
observed, the trout of America is more a lake than a river fish, yet the
gently running water at the foot of a lake just before the toss and
tumble of a rapid is reached is a favourite station for trout. Such
spots are excellent for fly-fishing ; I have frequently taken five dozen
fine fish in an hour, in the Liverpool, Tangier, and other noble rivers
in Nova Scotia, from rapid water, weighing from one to three pounds.
Towards midsummer the
fish begin to refuse fly or bait, retiring to deep pools under the shade
of high rocks, sickened apparently by the warmth of the lake water. As,
however, the woods, especially in the neighbourhood of water, are at
this season infested with mosquitoes and black flies, a day’s “outing”
by the lake or river side becomes anything but recreative, if not
unbearable. The twinge of the almost invisible sand-fly adds, too, to
our torments. In Nova Scotia the savage black-fly (Simulium molestum)
disappears at the end of June, though in New Brunswick the piscator will
find these wretches lively the whole summer. They attack everything of
life moving in. the woods, being dislodged from every branch shaken by a
passing object. No wonder the poor moose rush into the lakes, and so
bury themselves in the water that their ears and head are alone seen
above the surface. In Labrador the flies are yet worse, and travelling
in the interior becomes all but impracticable during the summer.
In August the trout
recover themselves under the cooling influence of the frosty atmosphere
which now prevails at night, and will again take the fly readily,
continuing to do so until quite late in the fall, and even in the
spawning season.
THE SEA TROUT
(Salmo Canadensis (Hamilton Smith).
Closely approximating to
the brook trout in shape and colouring—especially after having been some
time in fresh water—the above named species has been pronounced
distinct. They have so near a resemblance that until separated by the
careful comparison of Dr. Gilpin, I always believed them to be the same
fish, especially as the brook trout as aforesaid is known to frequent
tidal waters at the head of estuaries. The following description of the
sea trout is taken from Dr. Gilpin’s article on the Salmonidee before
alluded to, and is the result of examination of several fish taken from
fresh water, and in the harbour :—
“Of those from the
tide-way, length from twelve to fourteen inches; deepest breadth,
something more than one quarter from tip of nose'to insertion of tail.
The outline rounds up rather suddenly from a small and arched head to
insertion of dorsal; slopes quickly but gently to adipose fin; then runs
straight to insertion of caudal; tail gently curved rather than cleft;
lower line straight to anal, then falling rather rapidly to make a very
convex line for belly, and ending at the gills. The body deeper and more
compressed than in the brook trout. The dorsal is quadrangular; the free
edge convex ; the lower fins having the first rays in each thicker and
flatter than the brook trout. The adipose fin varies, some with very
long and arched free end, in others small and straight. The specimen
from the fresh water was very much longer and thinner, with head
•proportionally larger. The colour of those from the tide-way was more
or less dark greenish blue on back shading to ash blue and white below,
lips edged with dusky. They all had faint cream-coloured spots, both
above and below the lateral line. With one exception, they all had
vermilion specs, but some only on one side, others two or three. In all,
the head was greenish horn colour. The colour of the fins in pectoral,
ventral, and anal, varied from pale white, bluish-white, to pale orange,
with a dusky streak on different individuals. Dorsal dusky with faint
spots, and caudal with dusky tips—on some a little orange wash. The
lower fins had the first ray flat, and white edged with dusky. In the
specimen taken on September the 10th from the fresh water, the blue and
silver had disappeared, and dingy ash colour had spread down below the
lateral line; the greenish horn colour had spread itself over the whole
gills except the chin, which was white. The silvery reflections were all
gone, tlie cream-coloured dapples were much more decided in colour and
shape, and the vermilion specs very numerous. The caudal and all the
lower fins had an orange wash, the dorsal dusky yellow with black spots,
the lower fins retaining the white flat ray with a dusky edging, and the
caudal a few spots. The teeth of all were upon the inter-maxillary,
maxillaries, palatine, and the tongue; none on the vomer except now and
then one tooth behind the arch of palate. Fin rays, D. 13, P. 13, V. 8,
A. 10 ; gill rays 12. Axillary scale very small. Dorsal, with two
rudimentary rays, ten or eleven long ones, free edge convex; first ray
of lower fins flat, scales very small, but rather larger than those of
brook trout.’’
Dr. Gilpin sums up as
follows on the question of its identity with brook trout:—
“We must acknowledge it
exceedingly closely allied to Fontinalis—that it has the teeth, shape of
fins, axillary plate, tail, dapples, vermilion specs, spotted dorsal,
alike; that when it runs to fresh water it changes its colour, and, in
doing this, approximates to its red fin and dingy green with more
numerous vermilion specs, still more closely. Whilst, on the other hand,
we find it living apart from Fontinalis, pursuing its own laws,
attaining a greater size, and returning year after year to the sea. The
Fontinalis is often found unchanged under the same circumstances. The
former fish always preserves its more arched head, deeper and more
compressed body, and perhaps shorter fins. In giving it a specific name,
therefore, and using the appropriate one given by Colonel Hamilton
Smith—so far as I can discover the first de-scriber—I think I will be
borne out by all naturalists.”
The size attained by this
fish along the Atlantic coasts rarely exceeds five pounds : from one to
three pounds is the weight of the generality of specimens. The favourite
localities for sea trout are the numerous harbours with which the coasts
of the maritime provinces (of Nova Scotia in particular) are frequently
indented. First seen in the early spring, they affect these harbours
throughout the summer, luxuriating on the rich food afforded on the sand
flats, or amongst the kelp shoals. On the former localities the
sand-hopper (Talitrus) seems to be their principal food; and they pursue
the shoals of small fry which haunt the weeds, preying on the smelt (Osmerus)
on its way to the brooks, and on the caplin (Mallotus) in the harbours
of Newfoundland and Cape Breton. They will take an artificial fly either
in the harbour or in fresh water.
When hooked by the
fly-fisherman on their first entrance to the fresh water, they afford
sport second only to that of salmon-fishing. No more beautiful fish ever
reposed in an angler s basket. The gameness with which they prolong the
contest—often flinging themselves salmon-like from the water—the
flashing lights reflected from their sides as they struggle for life on
removal of the fly from their lips, their graceful form, and colouring
so exquisitely delicate—sides molten-silver with carmine spangles, and
back of light mackerel-green —and, lastly, the delicious flavour of
their flesh when brought to table, entitle the sea trout to a high
consideration and place amongst the game-fish of the provinces.
In some harbours the
trout remains all the summer months feeding on its favourite grounds,
but in general it returns to its native fresh water at distinctly marked
periods, and in large detachments. In the early spring, before the snow
water has left the rivers, a few may be taken at the head of the
tide—fresh fish from the salt water mixed with logies, or spent fish
that have passed the winter, after spawning in the lakes, under the ice.
The best run of fish occurs in June—the midsummer or strawberry run, as
it is locally called—the season being indicated by the ripening of the
wild strawberry. As with the salmon, there is a final ascent, probably
of male fish, late in the fall. The spawning fish remain under the ice
all winter in company with the salmon, returning to sea as spent fish
with the kelts when the rivers are swelled by freshets from the melting
snow.
SEA TROUT FISHING
A more delightful season
to the sportsman than “strawberry time” on the banks of some fine river
entering an Atlantic harbour and well known for its sea trout fishing,
can hardly be imagined. With rivers and woods refreshed by recent rains,
the former at a perfect state of water for fishing, and the river-side
paths through the forest redolent with the aroma of the summer flora,
and the delicious perfume of heated fir boughs, the angler’s camp is, or
should be, a sylvan abode of perfect bliss. Or even better — for then we
are free from the persistent attack of mosquito or black fly — is the
cabin of a comfortable yacht, in which we shift from harbour to harbour,
anchoring near .the mouth of the entering river. The flies and sea fog
are only drawbacks to the pleasant holiday of a trouting cruise along
shore. The former seldom venture from land (even on the forest lake they
leave the canoe or raft at a few yards’ distance from the shore) and, if
the west wind be propitious, the cold damp fog is driven away to the
north-east, following the coast line, several miles out to sea.
Nothing can exceed the
beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbours of Nova Scotia; their
innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fringed with the golden
kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the
patches of meadow, and the neat little white shanties of the fishermen’s
clearings, are the prettiest and most common details of such pictures,
w^hich never fade from the memory of the lover of nature. How easily are
recalled to remembrance the fresh clear summer mornings enjoyed on the
water; the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning
sunbeams, the perfect reflections of the islands and of the little
fishing schooners, the wreaths of blue smoke rising from their cabin
stoves, and rendered distinct by the dark fir woods behind, and the roar
of the distant rapids, where the river joins the harbour, borne in
cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful sounds of awakening life
from the clearings. The bald-healed eagles (H. leucocephalus) sail
majestically through the air, conspicuous when seen against the line of
woods by their snow-white necks and tails. The graceful little tern
(Sterna hirundo) is incessantly occupied, circling over the harbour,
shrilly screaming, and ever and anon dashing down upon the water to
clutch the small fry; whilst the common kingfisher, as abundant by the
sea-shore as in the interior, thinking
MUSQUODOBOIT HARBOUR.
all fish, salt or fresh
water, that come to his net, equally good, shoots over the harbour with
jerking flight, and uttering his wild rattling cry; now and then he
makes an impetuous downward dash, completely burying himself beneath the
surface in seizing his prey.
If there is a run of
trout, and we wish to fish the river, we go to the sea-pools, which the
fish enter with the rising tide, and where we may see their silvery
sides flashing as they gambol in the eddies under the apparently
delightful influence of the highly-aerated water of a large and rapid
stream, or as they rush at the dancing deceit which we agitate over the
surface of the pool. Here, in their first resting-place on their way up
the river, they will always take the fly most readily; and with good
tackle, a propitious day, and the by no means despicable aid of a smart
hand with the landing-net, the mossy bank soon glitters with a dozen or
two of these delicious fish.
Should they not be
running, or shy of rising in the fresh water from some of the many
unaccountable humours in which all game fish are apt to indulge, harbour
fishing is our resource, and we betake ourselves to the edge of the sand
flats where the fish, dispersed in all directions during high water, now
congregate and lie under the weeds which fringe the edge of the tide
channels. Half-tide is the best time, and the trout rush out from under
the kelp at any gaudy fly, temptingly thrown towards the edge, with a
wonderful dash, and may be commonly taken two at a time. The
trout-beaches in Musquodoboit Harbour, lying off Big Island, of which an
engraving is given, may be a pleasant remembrance to many who may read
these lines.
A deserted clearing, with
soft grassy banks positively reddened with wild strawberries, is a most
tempting spot for a picnic, and we go ashore with pots and pans to
bivouac on the sward. “ Boiled or fried, shall be the trout ? ” is the
question ; we try both. Perhaps the former is the best way of cooking
the delicate and salmon-flavoured sea trout (especially the larger
fish), but in camp we generally patronise a fry, and this is our mode of
proceeding. The fire must be bright and low, the logs burning without
smoke or steam; the frying-pan is laid on with several thick slices of
the best flavoured fat pork, and, when this is sufficiently melted and
the pan crackling hot, we put in the trout, split and cleaned, and lay
the slices of pork, now sufficiently bereft of their gravy, over them. A
little artistic manoeuvring, so as to lubricate the rapidly browning
sides of the fish, and 'they are turned so soon as the under surface
shows of a light chestnut hue. Just before taking off, add the seasoning
and a tablespoonful of Worcester. The tin plates are now held forth to
receive the spluttering morsels canted from the pan, and we fall back on
the couch of maple boughs to eat in the approved style of the ancients,
whilst the fresh midday breeze from the Atlantic modifies the heat, and
drives away to the shelter of the surrounding bushes the fisherman’s
most uncompromising foes—the mosr quitoes and black flies.
In Nova Scotia the best
localities for pursuing this attractive sport are the harbours to the
eastward of Halifax—Musquodoboit, Tangier, Ship, Beaver, Liscomb, and
Country harbours. In Cape Breton the beautiful Margarie is one of the
most noted streams for sea trout, and its clear water and picturesque
scenery, winding through intervale meadows dotted with groups of witch
elm, and backed by wooded hills over a thousand feet in height, entitle
it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf.
Prince Edward's Island
affords some good sea-trout fishing, and, further north, the streams of
the Bay of Chaleurs and of both shores of the St. Lawrence are so
thronged with this fish, in its season, near the head of the tide, as
seriously to impede the salmon fisher in his nobler pursuit, taking the
salmon fly with a pertinacity against which it is useless to contend;
nor is he free from their attacks until a cascade of sufficient
dimensions has intervened between the haunts of the two fish.
THE SALMON
(Salmo Salar.)
The Salmon of the
Atlantic coasts of America not having been as yet specifically separated
from the European fish, a scientific description is unnecessary, and we
pass on to note the habits of this noble game fish of our provincial
rivers.
From the once productive
rivers of the United States —with the exception of an occasional fish
taken in the Penobscot, or the Kennebec in Maine—the salmon has long
since been driven, the last recorded capture in the Hudson being in the
year 1840. Mr. Roosevelt, a well-known American sportsman and author,
states that “the rivers flowing into Lake Ontario abounded with them,
even until a recent period, but the persistent efforts at their
extinction have at last prevailed ; and, except a few stragglers, they
have ceased from out our waters.”
Cape Sable being, then,
the south-easternmost point in the salmon's range, we first find him
entering the rivers of the south coast of Nova Scotia very early in
March, long before the snow has left the woods; thus disproving an
assertion that he will not ascend a river till clear of snow water. At
this time he meets the spent fish, or kelts, returning from their dreary
residence under the ice in the lakes, and these gaunt, hungry fish may
be taken with most annoying frequency by the angler for the new comers.
As a broad rule, with,
however, some singular exceptions, the run of salmon now proceeds with
tolerably progressive regularity along the coast to the eastward and
northward, the bulk of the fish having ascended the Nova Scotian rivers
by the middle of June. The exceptions referred to occur in the case of a
large river on the eastern coast of Nova Scotia—the Saint Mary—and some
of the tributaries of the Bay of Fundy, in which there is a run of fish
in March, as on the south-eastern coast. This fact militates somewhat
against the theory of the salmon migrating in winter to warmer waters to
return in a body in early spring and ascend their native rivers,
entering them progressively.
In the Bay of Chaleurs
the season is somewhat more delayed ; the fish are not fairly in the
fresh water before the middle of June, which is also the time for their
ascending the rivers of Labrador.
At midsummer in Nova
Scotia, and in the middle of July higher up in the gulf, the grilse make
their appearance in fresh water in company with the sea trout. They are
locally termed jumpers, and well deserve the title from their liveliness
when hooked. With a light rod and fine tackle they afford excellent
sport, and take a small bright, yellowish fly with great boldness.
The American salmon
spawns very late in the fall, not before November, and for this purpose
affects the same localities as his European congener—shallow waters
running over beds of sand and gravel. The spawning grounds occur not
only in the rivers, but around the large parent lakes, at the entrance
of the little brooks that feed them from the forest, and where there are
generally deltas formed of sand, gravel, and disintegrated granite
washed down from the hills. The spent fish, as a general rule, though
some return with the last freshets of the year, remain all winter under
the ice (particularly if they have spawned in lakes far removed from the
sea), returning in the following spring, when numbers of them are taken
by the settlers fishing for trout with worm in pools where the runs
enter the lakes. They are then as worthless and slink as if they had but
just spawned. In May the young salmon, termed smolts, affect the
brackish water at the mouth of rivers, and fall a prey to juvenile
anglers in immense numbers—a practice most destructive to the fisheries,
as these little fish would return the same season as grilse of three or
four pounds weight. The salmon of the Nova Scotian rivers vary in weight
from seven to thirty pounds, the latter weight being seldom attained,
though a fair proportion of fish brought to market are over twenty
pounds. Those taken in the St. Mary are a larger description of fish
than the salmon of the southern coast. In the Bay of Chaleurs, in the
Restigouche, salmon of forty and fifty pounds are still taken; in former
years, sixty pounds and over was not an uncommon weight. The salmon of
the Labrador rivers are not remarkable for size: the average weight of
two hundred fish taken with the fly in the river St. John in July, 1863,
was ten pounds, the largest being twenty-three; and the largest salmon
ever taken by the rod on this coast weighed forty pounds.
The average weight of the
grilse taken in Nova Scotia and the Gulf appears to be four pounds. Fish
of seven or eight pounds which I have taken in American rivers are, to
my thinking, salmon of another years growth, and present an appreciable
difference of form to the slim and graceful grilt. In the latter - part
of November, the time when the salmon in the fresh water are in the act
of spawning, a run of fish occurs along the coast of Nova Scotia. They
are taken at sea by nets off the headlands, and are, as affirmed by the
fishermen, proceeding to the southward. Brought* to market, they are
found to be nearly all females, in prime condition, with the ova very
small and in an undeveloped state, similar to that contained in a fish
on its first entrance into fresh water. Where can these salmon be going
at the time when the rest of their species are busily engaged in
reproduction ? Another of the many mysteries attached to the natural
history of this noble fish ! In fresh running water the salmon takes the
artificial fly or minnow, whether from hunger or offence it does not
clearly appear; in salt water he is not unfrequently taken on the coast
of Nova Scotia by bait-fishing at some distance from shore, and in sixty
or seventy fathoms water. The caplin, smelt, and sand-eel, contribute to
his food.
Dr. Gilpin, of Nova
Scotia, speaking of many instances of marvellous captures of salmon,
tells the following authentic story; the occurrence happened in his own
time and neighbourhood—Annapolis :—
“Mr. Baillie, grandson of
the ‘Old Frontier Missionary' was fishing the General’s Bridge river up
stream for trout, standing above his knees in water, with an old negro
named Peter Prince at his elbow. In the very act of casting a trout fly
he saw, as is very usual for them, a large salmon lingering in a deep
hole a few yards from him. The sun favoured him, throwing his shadow
behind. To remain motionless, to pull out a spare hook and penknife, and
with a bit of his old hat and some of the grey old negro’s wool to make
a salmon fly then and there, he and the negro standing in the running
stream like statues, and presently to land a fine salmon, was the work
of but a few moments. This fly must have been the original of Norris’s
killing £ silver grey.’”
THE RIVERS OF NOVA SCOTIA
AND THE GULF.
Rivers and streams of
varying dimensions, but nearly all accessible to salmon, succeed each
other with wonderful frequency throughout the whole Atlantic Sea-board
of Nova Scotia. In former years, when they were all open to the ascent
of migratory fish, the amount of piscine wealth represented by them was
incalculable. The salmon literally swarmed along the coast. Their only
enemy was the spear of the native Indian; and the earlier annals of the
province show the prevalence of a custom with, regard to the hiring of
labourers similar to that once existing in some parts of England—a
stipulation that not more than a certain proportion of salmon should
enter into their diet. Now, the salmon having passed the ordeal of
bag-nets, with which the shores of the long harbours are studded, and
arrived in the fresh water, vainly loiters in the pool below the
monstrous wooden structure called a mill-dam, which effectively debars
his progress to his ancestors’ domains in the parent lakes, and before
long falls a prey to the spear or scoop-net of the miller. FronjL
wretchedly inefficient legislation the salmon of Nova Scotia is on the
verge of extinction, with the gaspereaux and other migratory fish, which
once rendered the immense extent of fresh water of .this country a
source of wealth to the province and of incalculable benefit to the poor
settler of the backwoods, whose barrels of pickled fish were his great
stand-by for winter consumption.
One of the noblest
streams of the Nova Scotian coast is the Liverpool river, in Queen’s
County, which connects with the largest sheet of fresh water in the
province, Lake Eossignol, whence streams and brooks innumerable extend
in all directions through the wild interior, nearly crossing to the Bay
of Fundy. All these once fruitful waters are now a barren waste. The
salmon and gaspereaux are debarred from ascent at the head of the tide,
where a series of utterly impracticable mill-dams oppose their progress
to their spawning-grounds. A pitiful half dozen barrels of salmon taken
at the' mouth is now shown against a former yearly take of two thousand.
A few miles to the
eastward we come to the Port Medway river, nearly as large as the
preceding, which, not being so completely closed against the salmon,
still affords good sport in the beginning of the season, in April and
May. This is the furthest river westwardly from the capital of the
province—Halifax—to which the attention of the fly-fisher is directed.
There are some excellent pools near the sea, and at its outlet from the
lakes, twenty miles above. The fish are large, and have been taken with
the fly in the latter part of March. The logs going down the stream are,
however, a great hindrance to fishing.
Proceeding to the
eastward, the next noticeable salmon river is the La Have, the scenery
on which is of the most picturesque description. There are some
excellent pools below the first falls. The run of fish is rather later
than at Port Medway, or at Gold River, which is further east. On the 4th
of May, when excellent sport was being obtained in these waters, I have
found no salmon running in the La Have. About the 10th of May appears to
be the beginning of its season.
We next come to Mahone
Bay, an expansive indentation of the coast, studded with islands, noted
for its charms of scenery, and likewise commendable to the visitor in
search of salmon-fishing. About six miles west of the little town of
Chester, which stands at its head, is the mouth of Gold River. Until
very recently this was the favourite resort of sportsmen on the western
shore. Its well-defined pools and easy stands for casting added to its
inducements; and a throng of fish ascended it from the middle of April
to the same time in May. The increase of sporting propensities amongst
the rising generation of the neighbouring villages proves of late years
a great drawback to the chances of the visitor. The pools are
continually occupied by clumsy and undiscerning loafers, who infest the
river to the detriment of sport, and do not scruple to come alongside
and literally throw across your line. Though dear old Isaac might not
possibly object to rival floats a yard apart, another salmon-fly
careering in the same pool is not to be endured, and of course spoils
sport. Still, however, without such interruptions, fair fishing may be
obtained here, and a dozen fish of ten to twenty pounds taken by a rod
on a good day. Excessive netting in the salt water is, however, fast
destroying all prospects of sport here as elsewhere.
There are two fair sized
salmon rivers entering the next harbour, Margaret’s Bay, which, being
the nearest to the capital of the province, are over-fished. With the
exception of a pretty little stream, called the Nine-mile River, which
is recovering itself under the protection of the Game and Fish
Preservation Society, these conclude the list of the western-shore
rivers of Nova Scotia.
The fishing along this
shore is quite easy of access by the mail-coach from Halifax, which
jolts somewhat roughly three times a week over the rocks and fir-pole
bridges of the shore-road through pretty scenery, frequently emerging
from the woods, and skirting the bright dancing waters of Margaret’s Bay
and Chester Basin. The woodland part of a journey in Nova Scotia is
dreary enough; the dense thickets of firs on either side being only
enlivened by an occasional clearing with its melancholy tenement and
crazy wooden out-buildings, and by the tall unbarked spruce-poles stuck
in a swamp or held up by piles of rocks at their base, supporting the
single wire along which messages are conveyed through the province
touching the latest prices afloat of mackerel, cod-fish, or salt, on the
magnetic system of Morse.
Indian guides to the
pools, who are adepts at camp-keeping, canoeing, and gaffing the fish
for you, as well as at doing a little stroke of business for themselves,
when opportunities occur, with the forbidden and murderous spear, reside
at the mouths of most of these rivers. Their usual charge, as for
hunting in the woods, is a dollar per diem.
The flies for the western
rivers of Nova Scotia are of a larger make than those used in New
Brunswick and Canada, owing to the turbidity of the water at the season
when the best fishing is to be obtained. They may be procured in several
stores in Halifax, where one Connell ties them in a superior style, and
will forward them to order anywhere in the provinces or in Canada. A
claret-bodied (pig’s wool or mohair) with a dark mixed wing is good for
the La Have. Green and grey are good colours for Gold River. With the
grey body silver tinsel should be used, and wood-duck introduced into
the wing. An olive body is also good. There is no feather that sets off
a wing better than wood-duck. It is in my estimation more tempting to
fish than the golden pheasant tippet feather. Its broad bars of rich
velvety black and purest white give a peculiarly attractive and soft
moth-like appearance to the wing.
The harbour of Halifax,
nearly twelve miles in length, has but one stream, and that of
inconsiderable dimensions, emptying into it. The little Sackville river
was, however, once a stream affording capital sport at Midsummer, its
season being announced, as the old fisherman who lived on it and by it,
generally known as “Old Hopewell,” told me, by the arrival of the
fireflies. He has taken nineteen salmon, of from eight to eighteen
pounds weight, in one morning with the fly. It offers no sport to speak
of now; the saw mills and their obstructive dams have quite cut off the
fish from their spawning grounds.
To the eastward, between
Halifax and Cape Canseau, occurs a succession of fine rivers, running
through the most extensive forest district in the province. The salmon
rivers of note are the Musquodoboit, Tangier river, the Sheet Harbour
rivers, and the St. Mary's. There are no important settlements on the
sea-coast, which is very wild and rugged to the east of Halifax, and
consequently they are less looked after and more poached. Formerly they
teemed with salmon. Besides the mill-dams, they are netted right across,
and the pools are swept and torched without mercy by settlers and
Indians. The St. Mary’s is the noblest and most beautiful river in Nova
Scotia, and its salmon are the largest. The nets overlap one another
from either shore throughout the long reaches of intervale and wild
meadow, dotted with groups of elm, which constitute its noted scenic
charms, and the lumbermen vie with the Indians in skill in their nightly
spearing expeditions by the light of blazing birch-bark torches.
There are many other fine
rivers besides those mentioned discharging into the Atlantic, which the
salmon has long ceased to frequent, being completely shut out, and which
would swell the dreary record of the ruin of the inland fisheries of
Nova Scotia. In these waters, at a distance from the capital, “Halifax
law,” as the settlers will tell you, is “no account’ The spirit of
wanton extermination is rife ; and, as it has been well remarked, it
really seems as though the man would be loudly applauded who was
discovered to have killed the last salmon.
Salmon are abundant in
the Bay of Fundy, which washes a large portion of Nova Scotia, but its
rivers are generally ill adapted for sport. Running through flat
alluvial lands, and turbid with the red mud, or rather, fine sand, of
the Bay shores, they are generally characterised by an absence of good
stands and salmon pools. The Annapolis river was once famous for salmon
fishing. On its tributary, the Nictaux, twenty or thirty might be taken
with the fly in an afternoon ; and the Gaspereau, a very picturesque
stream entering the Basin of Minas at Grand Pre, the once happy valley
of the French Acadians, still affords fair sport.
We will now turn to the
rivers of the Gulf which enter it from the mainland on the shores of New
Brunswick, Lower Canada, and Labrador, commencing with those of the
former province.
Proceeding along the
eastern shore of New Brunswick from its junction with Nova Scotia, we
pass several fine streams with picturesque scenery and strange Indian
names, which, once teeming with fish, now scarcely afford the resident
settler an annual taste of the flesh of salmon. The Miramichi, however,
arrests our attention as being a noble river; its yield and exportation
of salmon is still very large. Winding sluggishly through a beautiful
and highly cultivated valley for nearly one hundred miles from tlie
Atlantic, tlie first rapids and pools where fly-fishing may be practised
occur in the vicinity of Boiestown; here the sport afforded, in a good
season, is little inferior to that which may be obtained on the
Nepisiguit. One of its branches, also, the north-west Miramichi, is
worth a visit; and I have known some excellent sport obtained on it in
passing through to the Nepisiguit, from which river the water
communication for a canoe is interrupted but by a short portage through
the forest. .
It is, however, on
entering the southern expanses of the beautiful Bay of Chaleurs that we
first find the paradise of the salmon-fisher; and here still, despite of
many foes—innumerable stake-nets which debar his entrance, the sweeping
seine in the fresh water, the torch and spear of the Indian tribes, and
lastly, and perhaps the least destructive agent, the tackle of the
fly-fisher-man—the bright foamy waters of the Nepisiguit, the
Restigouche, the Metapediac, and many others, repay the visitor and
sportsman, whence or how far soever he may have come, by the sport which
they afford, and by the wild scenery which surrounds their long course
through the forests of New Brunswick.
And, first, of the
Nepisiguit. This now famous river, which of late years has attracted
from their homes many visitors, both English and American, to spend a
few weeks in fishing and pleasantly camping-out on its banks, discharges
its waters into the Baie des Chaleurs at Bathurst, a small neat town,
easily accessible from either Halifax, St. John, or Quebec, and by
various modes of conveyance—coach, rail, and steamboat. Rising in the
centre of northern New Brunswick, in an elevated lake region which gives
birth to the Tobique and Upsal-quitch, rivers of about equal size, the
Nepisiguit has an eastward course of nearly one hundred miles through a
wilderness country, where not even a solitary Indian camp may be met
with. It is one of the wildest of American rivers; sometimes contracted
between cliffs to the breadth of a few yards, coursing sullenly and
darkly below overhanging forests, and sometimes, though rarely,
expanding into broad reaches of smoothly-gliding water—its most common
feature is the ever-recurring cascade and rapid.
The adventurous fisherman
will do well to supplement his sport on the river by embarking on a long
journey through the solitudes of the interior to its parent lakes. A
short portage of a couple of miles, and the canoe floats on the Tobique
lakes, and thence descends the Tobique through another hundred miles of
the wildest and most beautiful scenery imaginable. At the junction of
this latter river with the broad expanse of the upper St. John,
civilisation reappears; the traveller changes his conveyance for the
steamer or coach, and the frail canoe returns, with her hardy and
skilful sons of the river, to battle with the rocks and rapids of the
toilsome route.
The whole of this tour
is, however, fraught with interest to the sportsman and lover of wild
scenery. Moose, cariboo, and bear are invariably met with; the two
former being generally seen bathing in the water in the evenings, whilst
a visit from a bear at night is by no means an uncommon occurrence at
some camp or another on the way; or, perchance, Bruin may be surprised
when gorging in the early morning, breakfasting amongst the great
thickets of wild raspberries which abound on the banks. A little search,
up the tributary brooks will discover the wonderful works of beaver now
in progress; and other frequenters of the river, mink, otters, and
musquash, are plentiful, and frequently to be seen. In July and August
the young flappers of many species of duck form an agreeable change in
the daily bill of fare ; and though salmon do not ascend the Nepisiguit
beyond the Grand Falls, twenty-one miles from Bathurst, they may be
taken at the head waters of the Tobique; whilst river trout of large
size, and affording excellent sport, will greedily rise at an almost
bare hook throughout the whole extent of water.
Reclining in the bottom
of the canoe, the position of the traveller is most comfortable, and he
may make notes or sketches, as fancy leads him, with ease; indeed, from
the facility with which all necessaries and even luxuries may be
conveyed, but little hardship need be anticipated in a canoe voyage
through the rivers of northern New Brunswick.
The length of the journey
just described much depends on the state of the water and the number of
the party. With good water a canoe will get through with two sportsmen,
two canoe men, and all their goods —camps, blankets, and provisions—in
ten or twelve days; but should the rivers be low, two canoes must be
employed by the same number. A few years since I took a still more
northern route to the upper St. John, vid the Restigouche and Grand
River; the head-waters were so shallow that we literally had to drag our
canoe, fixed on long protecting slabs of cedar, for some days over the
rocky bed; we were, moreover, nearly starved, and occupied nearly three
weeks in reaching Fredericton on the St. John, down whose broad, deep
stream, however, we paddled at the rate of fifty miles a day.
The scenery on this line
of water-communication with the St. John, is grander, but not so wild as
on the former route, which I recommend as possessing many advantages,
particularly in the way of sport.
Mais revenons d nos
saumons—to describe the capabilities of the Nepisiguit to afford sport
to the salmon-fisher, and direct the visitor. The ascent of salmon in
this river is restricted to twenty-one miles of water by an insuperable
barrier—the Grand Falls ; but from the head of the tide, two miles above
the town, to this point, are a succession of beautiful pools with every
variety of water, so stocked with fish, and with such picturesque
surrounding scenery, that the eye of the sportsman who may happily
combine the love of nature with the lust of sport drinks in constant and
ever-varying delight as he is introduced to these bewitching spots. And
now of the pools seriatim.
Two miles above Bathurst
we come to the “Rough Waters,5’ where there is good fishing. No camp is
needed here ; for it is so near the accommodation of a comfortable
hotel, that I question whether any one would care to experiment, except
for novelty. It is a pretty spot, and the dark water here and there
breaks into pure white foam as it passes over a ledge which crosses the
channel from the steep red sandstone cliffs opposite. A short distance
above are the “Round Rocks,” with little falls and intervening pools,
where the river begins to show its true character; and here, as at the
last-mentioned spot, a good day’s fishing may be obtained from the town.
But one is now-a-days liable to interference, however, for of late years
the little ragged urchins from the Acadian settlement on the south shore
have imbibed a strong love of sport in addition to their hereditary
poaching propensities, and with a rough pole, a few yards of coarse
line, and a bait in appearance anything but a salmon fly, they will hook
some dozen or more salmon in a day when they are running freely, of
course losing nearly every fish.
Distant eight miles from
Bathurst, and accessible by a fair waggon road, are the Pabineau Falls,
one of the choicest fishing stations on the river. The scenery here is
most beautiful; the forest has now claimed the banks, and, as the.
stranger emerges from its shade, and stands on the broad, smooth
expanses of light grey and pink rocks which slope from him towards the
brink of the stream, viewing its clear grass-green waters rolling in
such fierce undulations over long descents, and thundering, enveloped in
mist, through various contracted passes into boiling pools, with
congregated masses of foam ever circling over their black depths, he
becomes impressed with the idea of irresistible power, and is
constrained to acknowledge that he stands in the presence of no ordinary
stream, but of a mighty river.
I have here stood by the
margin of the water, where hundreds of tons momentarily rushed past my
feet in a compact mass, and watched the bright gleam of the salmon' as
they would dart up from below like arrows to encounter the fall; a
slight pause as they near the head; another convulsive effort, and they
are safely over; but many fall back, at present unequal for the contest,
into the dark pool.
There are several
well-built bark shanties on the rocks above the falls, for the fine
scenery, and the ease with which the numerous pools in the neighbourhood
of the Pabineau can be fished, have made this a favourite haunt for
anglers.
THE PABINEAU FALLS, RIVER NEPISIGUIT.
Two miles above are the
Beeterbox Pools, where there is some swift, deep water at a curve in the
river, and at the foot of a long reach of rapids. It is a very good
station to fish, en passant, but not of sufficient extent to induce more
than an occasional visit.
“Mid-landing” is the next
spot where good sport may be obtained, particularly at the end of July,
when the river becomes low. The great depths of water here, shaded by
high rocks, induce large fish to remain long in these cool retreats.
Very small, dark flies, and the most transparent gut must be used; and
with these precautions, when other pools have been failing in a dry
season, I have taken half a dozen salmon a day from the deep waters of
Mid-landing, and from the long, rough rapid which runs into the pool.
Three miles above are the
“Chains of ^Rocks,” the great and the little. A camp below the last fall
of the lower chain will command all the pools. This range of pools
contains an abundance of fish. Below the fall is a long expanse of
smooth water, at the head of which salmon congregate in great numbers
preparatory to ascending the rough water above ; they lie in several
deep, eddying pools, where projecting ledges narrow the channel, and may
be seen flinging themselves out of water throughout the day. Above this
long series of cascades which fall over terraces of dark rocks, for
nearly half a mile, there is some evenly-gliding water, in which fish
may be taken from stands on the left bank. Here, and at the little chain
just above, is my favourite resort at this part of the river; there is
excellent camping-ground in the tall fir-woods on the north shore, and
bold jutting rocks command the pools admirably.
Between this spot and the
Basin, two miles above, there are but few spots where the fly may be
cast profitably ; and, taking the bush-path which skirts the river, we
may now shoulder our rods, and trudge up to the Grand Falls, our canoes
following, spurting through the rapid water in long strides as they are
impelled by the vigorous thrusts of the long iron-shod fir-poles. The
Basin is a broad and deep expansion of the river, and a reservoir where
the salmon congregate in multitudes, ultimately spawning at the entrance
of numerous gravelly brooks which flow into it from the surrounding
forest, and daily making sorties to the Falls, a mile above, to enjoy
the cool water which flows thence to the lake between tall, overhanging
cliffs, sometimes completely shaded from the sunlight save during a very
limited portion of the day.
In this mile of deep
swift water, which winds in a dark thread from the Basin to the foot of
the falls between lofty walls of slate rock, salmon lie during the day
in thousands; there are certain spots which they prefer, found by
experience to be the best pools, where the splash of the fish and the
voice of the angler awaken echoes from the cliffs throughout the season.
Fine fishing, and fine tackle for these—aye, and a good temper, too—for
it is the most favoured resort for rods, and we may often be compelled
to cease awhile from our sport, whilst a canoe (here the only mode of
conveyance from pool to pool) with its scarlet-shirted paddlers, creeps
through the water by the opposite shore.
There are but one or two
places in the cliffs here where a camp may be pitched, and, if these are
occupied, we must drop down-stream again to some less-frequented
locality. The best of these is a green sloping bank, over which a cool
brook courses between copses of hazel and alder into the river below. It
is a charming situation, and from a grassy plateau overhanging the
river, where the camps are usually placed, we may look down into a clear
pool, some seventy feet below, and watch the salmon which occupy it,
dressed in distinct ranks.
The Grand Falls are
rather more than 100 feet in height. The river, here greatly contracted,
descends into a deep boiling pool, first by a succession of headlong
tumbles, and then in a compact and perpendicular fall of forty feet. The
first fishing pool is just below the eddying basin at the foot of the
fall, which is seldom entered by the canoe men, as currents both of air
and water sweep round it towards the pitch; besides, the fish here are
so engaged in battling with the heaving water, in their vain attempts to
surmount the falls, that they will not regard the fly.
All this portion of the
Nepisiguit must be fished from a canoe, excepting a few rocky stands,
where almost every cast is made at the risk of the hook snapping against
the cliffs behind; and this leads us to say a few words on the canoe men
of the river. They are a hardy and generally intelligent race of
Acadian-French, apparently a good deal crossed with Indian blood,
exceedingly skilful in managing their bark canoes, and in getting fish
for the sportsman; they have great experience in the requirements of a
camp in the woods, and are, withal, very merry, companionable fellows.
For a fishing camp anywhere above the Pabineau, a canoe and three men
(one to act as cook and camp-keeper), are indispensable; and on arriving
at Bathurst, the services of any of the following men of good character
should be secured : The Chamberlains, the Yineaus, David Buchet? Joe
Young, and others; Baldwin, the landlord of the little hotel, knows them
all well. Their wages are a dollar a day for the canoe men ; the cook
may be hired for half a dollar, but he will grumble, and most likely
succeed in getting three shillings. If a voyage through to the St. John,
vid the Nictaux and Tobique lakes, be contemplated, selection should be
made of those men who have taken parties through before. All provisions
necessary for a sojourn on the river—everything, from an excellent ham
to a tin of the best chocolate—are to be had at the store of Messrs.
Ferguson, Rankin, and Co., in Bathurst, obliging people, very moderate
and liberal; they will deduct for all the cooking utensils, supplied by
them, which may be returned on coming down the river.
Notwithstanding the
immense destruction of fish in the Nepisiguit in every possible
way—netting and torching in fresh water, whenever the nature of the
stream allows of such proceedings, wholesale sweeping and spearing on
their spawning beds by tribes of Indians, even into the month of
November, when they are quite black and slimy, extensive netting at its
mouth, and the number taken by fiy-fishers—even yet the river swarms
with salmon; a favourable condition of the water and the command of a
few pools will insure good sport. The fish are not very large, as in the
more northern rivers of the bay; the average of the weights, of seventy
salmon killed by one rod at the Grand Falls a few seasons since, was
11lb. 8oz.; and of thirty grilse, 41b. The fish commence running up in
June, but, from the height of the water, there is rarely good fishing
before July; the 10th is about the best time, and by that time they have
gone up as high as the Grand Falls. The flies for the Nepisiguit should
be small and neat, and of three sizes to each pattern, for different
states of water. As mistakes are often made from the different mode of
numbering by different makers, it will be sufficient to say that the
length of the medium fly should be 1-fin. from the point of the shank to
the extreme bend, measuring diagonally across. The patterns should be
generally dark, and all mixed wings should be as modest as possible; no
gaudy contrasts of colour, as used in Norway or Scotland, will do here.
A dark fly, tied as follows, is a great favourite: body of black mohair,
ribbed with fine gold thread, black hackle, very dark mallard wing, a
narrow tip of orange silk, and a very small feather from the crest of
golden pheasant for a tail. Then I like a rich claret body with dark
mixed wing and tail, claret hackle, and a few fibres of English jay in
the shoulder. Small grey-bodied flies ribbed with silver, grey legs, and
wing mixed with wood-duck and golden pheasant, will do well. Many other
and brighter flies may be used in the rough water, and a primrose body,
with black head and tip, and butterfly wing of golden pheasant, will
prove very tempting to grilse, which, late in July, may be taken in any
number in many parts of the river, particularly at the Pabineau and
Chain of Rocks. These flies will do anywhere in New Brunswick.
At the head of the Bay of
Chaleurs, and about fifty miles from Bathurst, we come to the
Restigouche, one of the largest rivers of British North America, 220
miles in length, and formerly teeming with salmon from the sea to its
upper waters. So abundant were the fish some twenty-five years ago, that
Mr. Perley, Her Majesty's Commissioner for the Fisheries, states that
3000 barrels were shipped annually from this river, and in those days
salmon of 60lb. weight were not uncommon. Of late years there has been a
sad falling-off, and instead of eleven salmon going to a barrel of
200lb., more than twice the number must now be used. Unfortunately for
the preservation of the fish, and the prospects of the fly-fisher, the
character of this beautiful river is very different to that of the
Nepisiguit. For 100 miles the Restigouche runs in a narrow valley
between wooded mountains with an almost unvarying rapid current, with
but few deep pools and no falls. Hence the chances of rod-fishing are
greatly diminished, whilst settlers and Indians torch and spear
everywhere. The channel is much used by the lumberers for the
water-conveyance of provisions to the gangs employed in the woods at its
head-waters—scows {i.e., large flat-bottomed barges) being employed,
drawn by teams of horses which find a natural tow-path in its shingly
beaches by the edge of the forest. High up the river there are many
rifts and sand-beaches, partly exposed in a dry season, through which
the channel winds ; and the scow is often dragged through shallow
places, thus ploughing up the spawning grounds of the salmon.
A few years since, after
a fortnight’s fishing on the Nepisiguit, during which my companion and
myself took eighty salmon, notwithstanding an unprecedented drought, we
visited the Restigouche, more for the sake of enjoying its fine scenery
than expecting sport. Staying for a day, however, at the house of a
hospitable farmer who dwelt by the river-side, at the junction of the
Matapediac with the main stream, I had the pleasure of hooking the first
salmon ever taken with a fly in the Restigouche water, a fine clean fish
of twelve pounds. In an hour’s fishing I had taken three salmon, each
differently shaped, and at once pronounced by my host to be frequenters
of three separate rivers which here unite—the two already mentioned and
the Upsal-quitch.
The Matapediac has a
course of sixty miles from a large lake in Rimouski, Lower Canada, and
the Upsal-quitch runs in on the New Brunswick side. They are both fine
rivers, and ascended by salmon in large numbers; the latter is stated to
be very like the Nepisiguit in character—full of falls and rapids, and I
believe it would afford equal sport. It looked most tempting as we
passed its mouth on our long canoe voyage up the main river, but we had
not time to stay and test its capabilities. About sixty miles from the
sea we discovered a salmon pool in the Restigouche, and took eight small
fish from it in an afternoon ; but such pools are few and far between,
and I would not recommend any one to ascend this river for sport above
the Upsalquitch. The flies we used here were dark clarets and reds; I
believe any fly will take, recommending, however, larger sizes than the
Nepisiguit flies, as the Restigouche salmon run much larger, and even in
these days commonly weigh thirty pounds.
Campbelltown, a neat
little village at the head of the tide, twenty miles from the sea, is to
be reached from Bathurst by coach; and here the traveller or sportsman
intending to ascend the Restigouche or its before-mentioned tributaries,
will find a large settlement of Indians of the Micmac tribe. They all
have canoes, and many of them are good guides, and trustworthy. There is
a good store at which to purchase provisions, and a very comfortable
little hotel kept by a Mr. M‘Leod.
We now leave the rivers
of New Brunswick: the Restigouche being the dividing line between the
two provinces, the rivers of the north shore of Chaleurs Bay are
Canadian. About thirty miles from the head of the bay we come to the
Cascapediac, a large river running in a deep chasm through the mountains
of Bonaventure. It is frequented by salmon of large size, and I have
been told by Mr. R. EL Montgomery, who resides near its mouth, that the
average weight is between thirty and forty pounds. He offered to procure
me good Indians and canoes for ascending to the first rapids, which are
some distance up the river. The whole district of Gaspe is intersected
by numerous and splendid rivers, abounding in salmon and sea trout, the
latter of four pounds to seven pounds in weight. The mountain scenery
through which they flow is magnificent, and many of them have never been
thrown over with a fly rod. Amongst the largest may be noticed the
Bonaventure, the Malbaie, and the Magdeleine.
On the south shore of the
St. Lawrence, from Gaspd to Quebec, these are several streams which
formerly abounded in salmon, but of late years have been so unproductive
that attention need not be directed to them. From the Jacques Cartier, a
few miles above Quebec, to the Labrador, the north shore of the St.
Lawrence is intersected by innumerable rivers ; in many of these the
salmon fishery has been nearly destroyed, but the energy of the Canadian
Government is fast remedying the evil. The process of reproduction by
artificial propagation under an able superintendent, and the
preservation of the rivers, are bringing back the salmon to comparative
plenty in many a worn-out stream; and the visitor to Quebec will soon be
enabled to obtain sport on the beautiful Jacques Cartier and other
rivers in the neighbourhood, without having to seek the distant fishing
stations of the Labrador. The Saguenay, too, with its thirty
tributaries, is improving; for many years past this noble river has
scarcely proved worth a visit, except for its wonderful scenery. In
fact, the legislature, aided by an excellently constituted club for the
protection of fish and game, have taken the matter up in earnest;
fish-ways are placed on those rivers which have dams or slides upon
them; netting and spearing in the fresh water is prevented; an able
superintendent of fisheries, and several overseers, have been appointed
; and, finally, an excellent measure has been adopted—the annual leasing
of salmon rivers to gentlemen for fly-fishing, for small rents—on
condition of their aiding and carrying out the proper preservation of
the fisheries.
Amongst the largest and
most notable salmon rivers which are passed in proceeding from the
Saguenay along the northern shore are the Escoumins, Portneuf,
Bersia-mits, Outardes, Manacouagan, Godbout, Trinity, St. Margaret,
Moisie, St. John, Mingan, Natashquan, and Esquimaux. Salmon ascend all
these rivers, and take the fly readily. Whether they will rise in the
rivers of the north-eastern coast, past the straits of Belle-Isle,
remains to be proved. It has been affirmed that they will not do so in
the Labrador rivers of high northern latitude, thus evincing the same
peculiarity which has been observed on the part of the true sea salmon
of Siberian rivers flowing into the Arctic Ocean. I have heard, however,
that they will rise at a piece of red cloth trailed on a hook over the
water from the stem of a boat.
In conclusion, the salmon
rivers of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, though they offer no extraordinary
sport, possess the charms of wild and often noble scenery; life in the
woods, in a summer camp, will agreeably surprise those who hold back for
fear of hard work, and the discomforts of “ roughing it.” Any point,
excepting the extremes of Labrador, may be reached with ease from either
Quebec or Halifax ; whilst the economy which may be practised by a party
of two or three, will be found to be within the means of most sportsmen.
At the termination of the fishing season a few weeks may be spent in
tourising through the Canadas or the States; and in the nionth of
September the glowing forests of Nova Scotia or New Brunswick may be
traversed in search of moose, cariboo, or bear. Between the Ottawa and
the great lakes there is excellent duck-shooting, and the woods abound
in deer (Cervus Yirginianus), whilst the vast expanses of wilderness in
Newfoundland teem with cariboo, ptarmigan, and wild fowl; the former so
abundant as sometimes to tempt the sportsman (?) to kill more than
he can carry away or
dispose of, leaving the meat rotting in the woods. To all such, Avaunt!
say we ; wholesale and thoughtless slaughter, except on the fiercer
species —the natural enemies of man—is always to be deprecated; but the
true sportsman we confidently invite to the forests and rivers of
British North America, believing that his example in carrying out the
fair English principles of sport, will tend much to the preservation of
game.
GLOVER’S SALMON
S. Gloverii (Girard.)
My first acquaintance
with this handsome salmonoid began many years since, when I would take
basketsfull in the month of April in the runs connecting the upper lakes
of the Shubenacadie river in Nova Scotia. At first I took them to be
young salmon, both from their jumping propensities when hooked and the
resemblance they bore to the parr on scraping away the scales from the
sides. Yet their rich olive black backs and beautiful bronze spots on
the head and gill covers made them appear dissimilar, and I could no
longer doubt them distinct from salmon, when I had succeeded in taking
them of one, two, and three pounds weight, and still spotted, in the
early summer, quite dissimilar in colour from grilse, and far exceeding
the size of smolts, which the smaller individuals somewhat resembled.
Finding out their haunts, and seasons for changing their abode, we were
content to take them in the spring and late in the autumn, in the runs
and streams lying between their spawning grounds and the deep waters of
large lake basins (where they spent the hot season and could only be
tempted by bait), under the common local misnomer of Grayling. And
glorious sport we found it; the dash with which this game fish seizes
the fly, its surprising jumps to the level of one’s shoulder, and its
beautiful metallic hues, particularly in the spring, invested it with an
interest far exceeding that of fishing for S. Fontinalis.
At length, however, on
referring several specimens to Dr. Gilpin, they were identified by him
in the “Proceedings of the Nova Scotian Institute” as S. Gloverii, or
Glovers Salmon of Girard, better known in New Brunswick as the Silvery
Salmon Trout of the Scoodic Lakes, where its abundance in the rapid
waters connecting the upper lakes of the St. Croix river, render this
locality one of the friost famed fishing stations of the Lower
Provinces. The following is Dr. Gilpin’s description taken from
specimens forwarded by myself and others :—
“Length, about seventeen
inches ; breadth of widest part from first dorsal, two and a half
inches; length of head nearly two and a half inches; the shape of the
head fine and small, the back rising rather suddenly, from posterior to
head, sloping very gradually upward to insertion of dorsal, thence
downward to insertion of tail, lower line corresponding with line of
back; a long elegant shaped fish with a strong base to a powerful tail;
eye large, nearly half an inch in diameter and two diameters from end of
nose ; opercles rounded, and with the pre-opercles marked with numerous
concentric streaks; the lower line of inter-opercle parallel with line
of the body, labials, both upper and lower, arched, line of pre-opercle
not so rounded as opercle; the pectoral fins coming out very far
forward, almost touching the gill rays, dorsal commencing about two
lengths of head from tip of nose, sub-quadrangular, free edge concave;
ventral about opposite sixth ray of dorsal; adipose fin opposite
posterior edge of anal; caudal deeply left, and very nearly the length
of head in depth. In one instance the tail was square.
Inter-maxillaries, maxillaries, palatines, vomer and tongue armed with
sharp and recurved teeth, the teeth on the vomer extending half an inch
down the roof of mouth, a fleshy line extending from them to the gullet,
the upper jaw notched to receive the lower. In two specimens a prolonged
hook in lower jaw advancing beyond the teeth. Girard says the male fish
has adipose fins opposite anterior edge of anal, the female opposite
posterior edge. Whilst in the following description, taken from a female
fish, I have verified his remarks, I have added, that in the male the
adipose fin is very much larger, which is almost the same thing. Colour
black above, shading down to sepia brown at the lateral line, the brown
being the back ground to numerous black spots, some round, some lunated
extending from opercles to tail. The opercles partake of the same
general colour with yellow reflections and blue tints, but also marked
with spots extending to the pre-opercles, beautifully round and
distinct; sides yellowish, and belly white with pearly tints, the whole
covered with bright scales larger about the sides than beneath. The
colours vary much by the reflected lights made in turning the fish. The
colour of the fins when fresh out of water,—caudal brown, dorsal
brownish black, and spotted, lower fins dark brown, edges and tips dark,
a very fleeting lavender wash on dorsal. Sides yellowish. In one adult
specimen I noticed a few red spots on sides, but in the young fish they
are very marked and beautiful. Some seen by myself in July had vertical
bars, red spots, very silvery on sides, and all, even the smallest, had
the typical opercular spots very distinct. They were exceedingly
beautiful and might have readily been taken for a different species. On
opening the fish from gills to tail, the heart with its single auricle
and ventricle first presented, the liver overlapping the stomach and
pale yellow; the stomach descended about one-half the length of the
fish, was then reflected suddenly upon itself where it was covered by
numerous cceca (about thirty) ; these are the jpyloric ceeca of authors.
It then turned down again, and soon was lost in small intestine ending
at the vent. The spawn were each of the size of currants and bright
scarlet, about a thousand in number, and encased in a very thin
bilo-bular ovary, the left lobe occupying the left side, being a little
over three inches, and only one half the length of right lobe occupying
right side; a second fish gave the same placing of ovary. Both these
fish were taken on the 2nd and 4th November at Grand Lake, Halifax, and
evidently near spawning. Fins, D. 12 or 13, P. 14, Y. 9, A. 9, C. 20.
Axillary scale small. The first dorsal ray in some instances contains
two, in other three small rays. Typical marks, spots on opercles.”
In its general
appearance, markings, and delicate primrose tint on the belly, the fish
is not unlike the trout of gravelly streams in England.
In former years, before
the construction of the Shube-nacadie Canal, it was found in that river
during the summer months far below the lakes. A place called the “Black
Bock,” just above the head of the tide, was a famous stand for grayling
fishing; and five and six pound fish were not unfrequent. Now cut off
from salt water by the locks, their migrations are restricted between
the deep basin of the Grand Lake and the numerous chains of lakes which
give rise to its affluents; and the fish, whilst they seldom attain a
greater weight than three pounds, are not so silvery in the spring as
formerly. The same fish taken at Loch Lomond, near Saint John’s, New
Brunswick, are much smaller, browner, and paler in flesh than the St.
Croix trout, and apparently from the same cause.
In Nova Scotia this trout
will take the fly as readily late in the fall (even to first week in
November) as in the spring, and long after the common brook-trout ceases
to rise. As it is then, however, immediately proceeding to the spawning
grounds, and with fully developed ova, this sport should be rendered
illegal after October.
Two great lake trout
inhabit the deep lakes of the Provinces—Salmo confinis and S. Amethystus—the
former being abundant, and sometimes attaining a weight of twenty
pounds. They may be taken in deep holes with bait or spoon-hook trolled
and well sunk. Their flavour is insipid, and they are unentitled to more
than a passing notice in a description of the game fish of Acadie.
The yellow perch (Perea
flavcscens) is exceedingly numerous in lakes and rivers. Though seldom
exceeding half a pound in weight, heavy baskets may be taken in a day's
fishing on some lakes (where they seem to affect particular localities)
by those who care for such sport. It is a handsome fish, of a bright
golden yellow colour, striped with dusky perpendicular bands. Its fins
are vermilion ; and altogether it is a decided analogue to the English
river perch. It may be taken on either a fly or bait. When properly
cooked it is very palatable. The so-called white perch, also very
abundant in fresh waters, is in reality a bass (Labrax pallidus), and a
worthless fish. The common sucker (Catostomus) will sometimes rise at
the fly, as also will the cat-fish, whose enormous mouth, surrounded by
long fleshy feelers, gives it a hideous appearance. It will seize a
trout of half its own size. |