IN no part of the world
are there more noble lays than in Newfoundland. Eighty and ninety miles
the ocean is penetrated by those great arms of the sea, into the land,
bringing the treasure of the deep to the very doom of the inhabitants.
It is very probable that the whole of the earlier voyagers to
Newfoundland visited Trinity Bay. The celebrated Captain Whitbourne, who
went in a whip of his own against the Spanish Armada, in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth, visited Trinity Harbour so early as 1578, where he
obtained poultry and fish. In 1762 Trinity shared the fate of all the
other British settlements by being destroyed by the French fleet.
Trinity Harbour (so called from being entered in Trinity Sunday) is the
Capital of the District of Trinity Bay. It is one of the best and
largest harbours, not only of Newfoundland, but of the world. It has
several arms and coves, where thousands of ships may ride land-locked,
secure from wind, tide, or sea. The N. W. arm runs in various directions
for a distance of three miles.. The S. W. arm also flows in different
branches to about the same distance,
when both arms nearly meet, forming
Rider’s Hill (which is situated in the centre of the harbour and at the
foot of which stands the town) into a peninsula. It has a Swiss
appearance. The scenery on all sides of both arms is extremely
picturesque, romantic and beautiful. The woods in some parts, skirt the
edge of the water, amongst which are seen the graceful birch, shining
like a silvery column amid the dark evergreens and underwood. Towering
rocks are seen tossed into fantastic shapes from the Assures of which
the fir, birch, and mountains spring, waving with the slightest breeze.
Here also is heard the roaring of several large brooks thundering in
solitude, and creating an ever varying succession of spray and foam, as
they dance along their course from rock to rock in musical cascades.
In 1842, Trinity was
visited by the first steamer, and which was the second that ever
appeared in Newfoundland. She was called the John Me Adam, and had been
previously employed running between Cork and Liverpool, and was sent to
St. John’s 'n order to be sold. Trinity was long the seat of some of the
oldest mercantile establishments in Newfoundland. The Messrs. Garlands
and Slades, for a great number of years, carried on large and
flourishing trades. The premises that formerly belonged to Mr. Garland
were afterwards owned by Messrs. Brooking, Son & Co., of St. John’s, who
carried on a large trade there, presided over by their agent. The
executors of the late Robert Slade, also did a very extensive business.
The venerable William Nelson, Esq., the Isaac Walton, of Newfoundland,
resided here, who was always the unflinching advocate of the hook and
line, over all other modes of catching fish.
The Circuit Court sits
at Trinity once a year. There is a Stipendiary Magistrate and a Clerk of
the Peace, and also a Custom House Officer. There are also two medical
gentlemen. In 1838 a “Benefit Club ” was established here which, since
its organization, has paid to sick members, and the relief of widows
82,000. Trinity has three churches, which belong to the Episcopalians,
Methodists, and Roman Catholics. There is one English Church and one
Roman Catholic School. The population of Trinity in 1836 was 1,253; in
1845 it was 1,268, and in 1857 it was 1,510. In 1833, Trinity employed
thirty-seven vessels in the foreign trade, besides nineteen more in the
seal fishery. There are several populous settlements in the
neighbourhood of Trinity, such as Eughah Harbour, Trouty, and
Bonaventure. These places, with Catalina and Bird Island Cove, are the
only important settlements on the north side of the Bay. In 1857, over
6,000 pounds of soap were manufactured in these settlements. At Catalina
is found the celebrated “Catalina stone,” iron pyrites. A light-house
has been erected on Green Island, at the entrance of the harbour. Random
Sound is a beautiful lake of water, the shores of which are well adapted
for cultivation. Here John Tilley, Esq., resides, who by indomitable
energy and perseverance rose from obscurity to eminence as a man of
learning. Mr. Tilley taught himself to read and write at twenty-six
years of age. He was the first to commence brick-making, and preserving
salmon in tins in Newfoundland. The Rev. Henry Petley, Missionary of the
Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, thus describes his visit to
Random Sounds in 1859:
“I had long wished to
go round Random Island, and visit the people in the North-West Arm and
Smith’s Sound, as the two reaches of sea water on two sides of the
triangle of Random are called; the third side being that open to the
bay, Trinity Bay. To visit these, I started about half-past nine A.M.,
on the 22nd August, from Heart’s Content, and got off Heart’s Ease,
across the bay about fourteen miles, about one. Upon nearing my port
here, Gooseberry Cove, I saw a punt with two hands making towards me,
and slackened my sheets to allow it to come up ; it had my intended
pilot on board, who welcomed me, and finding I was going the proposed
journey, asked for a couple of hours to get his breakfast and split his
fish, for he had been fishing since dawn on an empty stomach. We were
soon under sail, and a light breeze carried us up the North-West Arm of
Random, to near Mr. Blundell’s, Reekes’s Harbour, when down came the
rain, and we had to row a mile or so up to his house. Blundell and his
wife were away in St John’s, but his son received us kindly, and made up
a blazing fire, which soon dried our wet clothes. After tea, at the
request of young Blundell, I read some prayers, and explained the Gospel
for the Sunday before, the Parable of the Unjust Steward. Soon after we
went to rest, and I slept soundly till about four A.M., when I was awoke
by my worthy pilot going out and commencing battle with some Indian
dogs, used by the Blundells for hauling wood. The battle raged with fury
whilst near the house, but as it got more distant slackened and died
away. But it commenced again more severely when the poor pilot thought
to return to the house ; stones and sticks flew about, and I was just
starting up, fearing the dogs were on him, when the door opened, and the
tumult ceased. Even tho inmates of the houses here are in dread of these
dogs. I have not heard of their attacks being fatal on men, but an
Indian dog and three others were shot in Heart’s Content, only a week or
two, for killing a cow. They have a bad name, and deservedly. And yet
some of these dogs must have been the ancestors of the noble dogs known
in England as the breed of this island. The best are jet black, and of
good size ; but the ordinary dogs, if not of the Indian breed, are very
curs, and could be made to walk under the English Newfoundland dog.
There are here, some miles in, remains of Indian gardens ; gooseberries,
raspberries, and nuts are still growing there in profusion. Mr. Blundell
has a sawmill worked by water. From this harbour to Smith’s Sound,
across Handom, the distance is only, in Eastern phrase, a couple of
hours.
“Leaving early, after
giving away a few books, I went to a place called Piston Mere, where
another saw mill has been set up; this has a more convenient wharf than
any of the mills, shallow water being found -w here the streams issue
into the arm. A house was building here for the owner’s brother, and the
ground was good-sheltered and well cropped. It lies under a cliff, which
receives the warmth of the sun in the day, and throws it back at night,
thus causing an even temperature. Whilst here, the rain fell in torrents
; on its slackening a little, we started, refusing, for want of time,
the friendly hospitality of the people. The weather soon appeared
decidedly against us, so we were obliged to give up going to Maggottv
Gove, Deep Bight, and Upper Shoal Harbour, places like those we had
visited, occupied chiefly by Wesleyans, and similarly, each containing
two or three families. After we had passed Foster’s Point, a dangerous
shallow, with a rock, to take a skiff up about a third across the arm,
we took to the oars, and rowed up under the shore till we got past
Bound’s Head, when we got sail on the boat, and ran across to Mr.
Tilly’s, of Lower Shoal Harbour.
Here we threw out our
grapnel in about eight feet of water, and waited for a ‘flat’ to take us
ashore. We were kindly entertained by Mr. Tilly, an old gentleman, who
appeared to have found pleasure, and profit too, in scientific and
learned pursuits. He is a Wesleyan, and, as I was the first clergyman, I
believe, who had burst into this silent sea,’ I did not feel disposed,
single-handed, as I am in this mission, to discuss the church question
with him at any length, particularly when I found him recognising the
Wesleyan teachers as a lay body, and giving me leave to have service in
his house. He had a Homer’s Iliad in the Greek, which, as he did not
want, he exchanged with me, after Diomed’s fashion, for Parker’s
National Miscellany. I had no time to visit his saw-mill, or to take a
walk into the country to see the large pines, now only to be met with
some three miles in. But I saw his farm, a good extent of land for these
parts, bearing fine crops of potatoes, oats, and grass. There is an old
Englishman here, who is his principal labourer, who is very careful over
the potatoes. The next morning brought St. Michael’s Day, and the
service, Morning Prayer and sermon, was well attended. I soon after had
to leave. My visit here gave me much pleasure ; the people were
evidently more intelligent than the usual settlers ; and everything
seemed to tell of prosperity following the track of industry and order.
Mr. Tilly’s is about half-way between Trinity and the electric telegraph
station in Bay of Bull-arm.
“Nearing the shoal
water of the Bar, a score or two of wild geese took to wing. Spurrell
had a winter tilt near this, and once on a March morning walked with two
others to Trinity, arriving there the same day about five o’clock.
Marshes and ponds, with a few woods, are the character of the interior
of the country. Leaving the Bar, we entered Smith’s sound, and after a
long sail came to Burgon's or Berrigon’s Cove, where were three
families. Opposite this, on the other side of the sound were several
small settlements, Apsey Cove, with a good harbour, Lance Cove, Lalle
Cove, Porridge Cove, &c., with from one to three or four families, as I
understood, in each. The people have all come here within the last five
years or less. The land is good in places, and the fishing has been
productive this year; but the people seem living too much for the day.
The only one in these parts representing the ‘ king of men ’ (I have
been reading Mr. T.’s Homer), has been the sheriff from Harbour Grace
last spring ; whilst the sole visit of a pastor they have had has been
my own. The next morning they came over, and I was sorry to tell them I
could do nothing for them in the way of church or school, their numbers
being so few. Mr. Corbury, my host at Burgon’s Cove, has an old
Englishman with him, the only man about here who can read; he has been
in the habit of reading part of the services on Sundays. Mr. Corbury
wished to have a burial-ground consecrated, but as this was beyond my
power, and as performing a partial service might have seemed to fix a
station for a church, I thought it best to ask him to wait for the
present.
“After the service.
Morning Prayer with two christenings and a sermon, we started again, and
soon passed the slate quarries, now becoming useful to the colony, and
rowed, under a hot sun, to near a tickle called the Thoroughfare,
containing four or live houses, where a slight breeze relieved us, and
brought us once more out into the Bay. Here we had to take to our oars
again, find row to Rider’s Harbour, where a poor fisherman named Bayly,
kindly entertained us, and I gave him of such things as I could, holding
a service in his house, and christening two of his children ; sponsors
for whom, as well as the majority of the congregation, were found from
some boats lying in the harbour.
I ought to have
mentioned the pleasure it gave me when a poor man, who had been
grass-cutting, came alongside of me as I was coming in, and gave me for
himself and his neighbours a kindly invitation to Island’s Eye, or
Ireland’s Rye, a very primitive place, where there is a little
school-church, in which, if. report speaks correct, psalmody is unknown.
But as this is out of my Mission, I could only say I had no time for
such a visit. Here are great quantities of raspberries, and soon after
arriving I had some with milk—very refreshing after the day’s work;
“Next morning we
breakfasted about four, and were soon off, wishing to reach Heart’s Ease
before night. The distance was not great; but tho wind, blowing frosh,
was right ahead. We rowed up to Deer Harbour head, when we hoisted sail,
and beat up, standing off and on between the small islands which dot tho
coast here, and the main. We made our way up towards the Eastern Head of
Random, a fine bold point where iron ore, or something unknown to
Sinbad, attracts the compasses of passing boats, and renders them
useless. My pilot once had the needle of his compass spinning here, in a
gale of wind and fog, and by this he guessed where he was, just before
the fog lifting showed the Head right above him. After passing the
Eastern Head a squall of wind and rain came on, and if the little boat
had not hooked well up into the arm, as Spurrell said, we should have
had to run back again. One or two tacks brought us well into the arm,
and under the Western Head, where the wind fell, and we had to row into
the tickle above Heart’s Ease, where the wind came on smart again, and
we beat up to Gooseberry Cove about five o'clock.”
The most important
place to Trinity is Old Perlican on the south side of the Bay, which is
one of the oldest settlements. It had a population in 1857 of 793. The
next populous settlements are Grate’s Cove, Hants Harbour, New Perlican,
and Heart’s Content, each of which has a population of from four to six
hundred, with churches and schools. At Old Perlican there is a Methodist
church and school. Stephen March, Esq., carried on a mercantile
establishment here, and is now a member of the Assembly, and a merchant
in St. John’s. There is also a Methodist church and school. There is a
mercantile establishment, which is a branch of Messrs. Slade’s, of
Trinity.
At New Perlican, there
is an Episcopal church and school. There are also two mercantile
establishments. New Perlican is celebrated as being the residence of the
Astrologer of Newfoundland, the late Mr. Pittman, who was an Englishman,
and formerly agent for Garland’s house, of Trinity. New Perlican is
famous for shipbuilding.
At All Heart’s Content
there is an Episcopal church and school. There are several merchants
resident here. A packet-boat runs from this place to Trinity once a
week. Here are the buildings of the Atlantic Telegraph Company.
The next places of any
importance are New Harbour and Dildo Cove. At the former place ‘Mr.
Newhook resided, a merchant and ship-builder. Dildo Cove is noted as
being the residence of the late celebrated Tom Fitz-gibbon Moore, a poor
fisherman, who was the representative of Trinity Bay, in 1836, in the
Second House of Assembly of Newfoundland. Trinity Bay is famous for
ship-building. In 1836 the population of Trinity Bay was 6,803.
In 1857, the following
was the population :—


There were also 1,747
dwelling-houses; 20 schools, with 1,035 scholars. There were 1,819 acres
of land in cultivation, the annual produce of which were 916 tons of
hay, 10 bushels of wheat and barley, 39,312 bushels potatoes, 205
bushels of turnips, 277 bushels of timothy and clover seed, 126 bushels
of other root crops. Of live stock there were 1,352 neat cattle, 680
milch cows, 240 horses, 536 sheep, and 1,395 swine and goats. There were
five saw mills, valued at $6,000. The quantity of butter manufactured
was 10,136 pounds. The numberjof vessels employed in the seal and cod
fisheries was 37 boats carrying from 4 to 30 quintals of green fish and
upwards. Nets and lines, 1,933. Quantity of fish cured as follows:—
86,723 quintals of
codfish.
176 teices of salmon.
1,072 barrels of herring.
The number of seals
taken was 6,100. Seal nets owned, 234. Quantity of oil manufactured,
95,562 gallons.
The following are the
number of vessels employed in the seal fishery at different periods from
Trinity Bay :—

Some of the above
vessels were sent from St. John’s to Catalina and Hants Harbour in the
Fall to be fitted out for the seal fishery. The above also include six
schooners belonging to Bonavisto which sailed from Catalina.
The number of seals
manufactured in Trinity Bay during the years 1839 and 1845 was as
follows :—
In
1839........................38,560
In 1845........................14,350
At Trinity, the
practice for a number of years had been to claim for the owners of the
sailing vessels, a man’s share beyond the number of persons engaged in
the voyage. In 1836, however, the hardy seal hunters determined to
submit to this iniquitous practice no longer, They held a public meeting
and threw the “dead man overboard.”
Measures were taken to
extend a submarine Telegraph across the Atlantic from Newfoundland to
Ireland.”
The following is from
Lieutenant Maury, of the U. S. navy :—
“The United States brig
“Dolphin,” Lieutenant-Command !ng O. H. Berryman, was employed last
summer upon special service connected with the researches that are
carried on at this office concerning the winds and currents of the sea.
“Her observations were
confined principally to that part of the ocean which the merchantmen, as
they pass to and fro upon the business of trade between Europe and the
United States, use as their great thoroughfare.
“Lieutenant Berryman
availed himself of this opportunity to carry along, also, a line of deep
sea soundings from the shores of Newfoundland to those of Ireland.
“The result is highly
interesting, in so far ass the bottom of tho sea is concerned, upon the
question of a submarine telegraph across the Atlantic, and I therefore
beg leave to make it the subject of a special report.
This line of deep sea
soundings seems tc bo decisive of the questions as to the practicability
of a submarine telegraph between the two continents, in so far as the
bottom of the deep sea is concerned.
“From Newfoundland to
Ireland the distance between the nearest points is about 1,600 miles;
and the bottom of the sea between the two places is a plateau, which
seems to have been placed there especially for the purpose of holding
the wires of a submarine telegraph, and of keeping them out of harm’s
way. It is neither too deep nor too shallow; yet it is so deep that the
wires, but once landed, will remain forever beyond the reach of vessels’
anchors, icebergs, and drifts of any kind; and so shallow that tho wires
may be readily lodged upon the bottom.
“The depth of this
plateau is quite regular, gradually increasing, from the shores of
Newfoundland to the depths of from J,500 to 2,000 fathoms, as you
approach the other side.
“The distance between
Ireland and Cape St Charles, or Cape St. Lewis, in Labrador, is somewhat
less than the distance from any point of Ireland to the nearest point of
Newfoundland.
“But whether it would
be better to lead the wires from Newfoundland or Labrador is not now the
question; nor do I pretend to consider the question as to the
possibility of finding a time calm enough, the sea smooth enough, a wire
long enough, a ship big enough, to lay a coil of wire sixteen hundred
miles in length; though I have no fear but the enterprise and ingenuity
of the age, whenever called on .with these problems, will be ready with
a satisfactory and practical solution of them.
“I simply address
myself, at this time, to the question in so far as the bottom of the sea
is concerned, and as far as that, the greatest practical difficulties
will, I apprehend, be found after reaching soundings at either end of
the line, and not in the deep sea.
“I submit herewith a
chart, showing the depth of the Atlantic according to the deep-sea
soundings, made from time to time, on board of vessels of the navy, by
authority of the Department, and according to instructions issued by the
Chief of the Bureau of Ordnance and Hydrography. This Chart is Plate
XIV. of the sixth edition of ‘Maury’s Sailing Directions.’
“By an examination of
it, it will be perceived that we have acquired by these simple means a
pretty good idea as to the depression below the sea-level, of the solid
crust of our planet which underlies the Atlantic Ocean, and constitutes
the basin that holds its waters.
“A wire laid across
from either of the above-named places on this side will pass to the
north of the Grand Banks, and rest on that beautiful plateau to which I
have alluded, and where the waters of the sea appear to be as quiet and
as completely at rest as at the bottom of a mill-pond.
“It is proper that the
reasons should be stated for the inference that there are no perceptible
currents, and no abrading work at the bottom of the sea upon this
telegraphicive this inference from a study of a physical fact which I
little deemed, when I sought it, had any such bearings.
“It is unnecessary to
speak on this occasion of the germs which physical facts, even
apparently the most trifling, are often found to contain.
“Lieutenant Berryman
brought up with Mr. Brook’s deep sea line sounding apparatus specimens
of the bottom from this plateau.
“I sent them to
Professor Bailey, of West Point,^for examination under his microscope.
This he kindly gave, and that eminent microscopist was quite as much
surprised, as I was to learn, that all these specimens of deep-sea
sounding are filled with microscopic shells; to use his own words, ‘ not
a particle of sand or gravel exists in them.’
“These little shells,
therefore, suggest the fact that there are no currents at the bottom of
the sea, whence they came— that Brook’s lead found them where they were
deposited in their burial-place after having lived and died on the
surface, and by gradually sinking were lodged on the bottom.
Had there been currents
at the bottom, these would have swept and abraded, and mingled up with
these microscopic remains, the debris of the bottom of the sea, such as
oozle, sand, gravel, and other matter; but not a particle of sand or
gravel was found lying among them. Hence the inference that these depths
of the sea are not disturbed either by waves or currents.
“Consequently, a
telegraphic wire once laid there, there it would remain, as completely
beyond the reach of accident as it would be if buried in air-tight
cases. Therefore, so far as the bottom of the deep sea between
Newfoundland, or the North Gape, at the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and
Ireland is concerned, the practicability of a submarine telegraph across
the Atlantic is proved.”
Bay of Bull's Arm, in
Trinity Bay, has acquired great celebrity as being the place of landing
of the first Atlantic Telegraph Cable. |