“A land of brooks of
waters, of fountains, and depths that spring out of valleys and hills—a
land whose stones are iron and out of -whose hills thou rnayest dig
brass.”—Deut. viii. 7, 9.
The province of Nova
Scotia, according to its present limits, lies within the latitudes of
48° and 47° north, and the longitudes of 60° and 67° west. It consists
of a Peninsula, usually known as Nova Scotia proper, connected with the
continent by an isthmus twelve miles wide, and the island of Cape
Breton, separated from the mainland by a narrow passage, called the
Strait of Canso. In length it extends a distance of about three hundred
and fifty miles, and its average breadth is about seventy. But from the
extent to which it is out into by inlets of the sea, and the amount of
surface in the interior occupied by rivers and lakes, its superficial
extent is not so large as might be expected. Its computed area is 18,600
square miles, or about 12,000,000 acres.
Along the southern
coast, the shore is generally rugged, but it seldom rises into steep
cliffs, so that the general aspect is not romantic or sublime, yet it is
generally picturesque, and in many places the scenery is rich and
beautiful. In the interior the country is generally traversed by hills,
•which however scarcely ever rise to the height of mountains, the
highest elevation being estimated at fifteen hundred feet above the
level of the sea. From these flow down many small streams, which, though
not long in their course, render the country one of the best watered on
the face of the earth, and being generally navigable for small vessels,
afford great conveniences for trade. The surface also is much broken by
innumerable lakes, so that the general aspect of the province is that of
a hilly country, agreeably diversified with hill and dale, river and
lake, forest and grassy glade.
In respect to soil and
fitness for agricultural purposes, Nova Scotia presents a great variety.
Along the whole Atlantic coast it is barren and stony, but in the
interior the soil is generally capable of cultivation, and much of it,
especially on the Bay of Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, is of the
very best quality. Many of the hills are fertile to their summits, while
the richness and beauty of many of the valleys cannot be surpassed. The
province, however, is chiefly remarkable for its immense mineral
resources. These, with its valuable fisheries, and its convenient
situation for trade, will yet render it one of the most important
commercial and manufacturing places of the new world.
The climate of Nova
Scotia, like that of America generally, possesses the characteristic of
having a higher temperature iu summer and a lower in winter than the
same latitudes of the old world. From its position on the coast it has
more humidity than places in the interior of the continent, and for the
same reason has not the extremes of heat and cold, which prevail in the
neighbouring provinces. The most unfavourable impressions have been
abroad regarding its climate. It has been represented as enveloped in
fog, covered so deeply with snow as to render travelling impracticable,
and bound for the most of the year in the chains of frost. Nothing can
be more unfounded. The fogs which prevail on the southern coast at
certain seasons do not extend inland, so that at the distance of a dozen
miles from the shore there will be clear air and brilliant sunshine, at
the very time that thick fogs come upon the coast from the sea, while on
the northern coast there is not on an average above one day’s fog in the
year. Though the winter is more severe than in Britain, yet it is not so
much so as in the neighbouring provinces or in portions of the
north-eastern States. Of the healthiness of the climate there can be no
question. There are no diseases peculiar to the country, and epidemics
or other diseases do not rage with peculiar virulence, while those
violent and protracted intermittent fevers, prevalent in other parts of
America, arc never generated here, and those afflicted with them will on
their removal to Nova Scotia entirely recover in a short time.
For some time after its
discovery, Nova Scotia received but little attention from Europeans.
When it did attract notice, the first attempts at colonization were made
by the French. At that time, under the name of Acadia, it embraced not
only what is now included under the government of Nova Scotia, but also
Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick. As early as the year 1606, they
sent forth an expedition for the purpose of colonization, and though the
settlement of the country was interrupted by the uncertain tenure by
which it was held, it being alternately in the possession of the English
and French, yet in the early part of the last century their settlements
had made considerable progress.
In the year 1713 Nova
Scotia was finally ceded to Britain. But the French still retained Cape
Breton and Prince Edward Island, and claimed a large portion of New
Brunswick. From this time efforts were made by the English for the
colonization of Nova Scotia, but for some time with but little success,
in consequence of the hostility of the French and the deadlier hostility
of the Indians, who were leagued with them. The first effectual attempt
of importance made by the former was at Chebueto, since called Halifax,
by Lord Cornwallis, who, in 1749, landed a body of 3760 persons, chiefly
disbanded soldiers and sailors. About the same time invitations were
sent to various parts of Europe, inviting Protestants to settle in the
British provinces. In consequence, a large number of Germans arrived in
this province, who principally settled at Lunenburg. A few of them
however reached the eastern part of the province.
We need scarcely
remark, that the early settlement of the country was attended with great
toil and privation. The majestic primeval forest, which covered the
whole surface of the ground, seemed an almost insuperable barrier to the
cultivation of the soil. The difficulties of forming a home in such a
situation would not now appear very formidable to those brought up in
the new States or the frontier settlements of America. But thoso who
came from an old country, entirely unacquainted with such a mode of
life, and unaccustomed to the use of the gun or the axe, were in very
different circumstances. The winter seemed to them terrible. Of a
severity of which they had in the old country no conception, ill
provided either with clothing or shelter against its inclemency, and
with none of the facilities for locomotion, which the inhabitants now
possess, we need not wonder that it was at first regarded as truly
appalling. More fearful still was the hostility of the Indians. The
first settlers could scarcely enter the neighbouring woods without being
either shot, scalped, or taken prisoners. When the latter was their
fate, torture and death were their lot, or if spared, they were dragged
by long marches through trackless forests, suffering intolerable
hardships, and were finally sold to the French as merchandise, in
exchange for arms and ammunition. The French inhabitants, who remained
in the province, had taken an oath of neutrality; but under the
continual instigation of their countrymen in Canada and Cape Breton, and
especially of their priests, they were excited to acts of hostility,
which led the government in the year 1755, to remove them from the
province and disperse them over the other colonies.
In the year 175S
Louisburg was taken by the British, and Cape Breton and all Prince
Edward Island immediately passed under the English sway. In the year
1761 a formal treaty of peace was made with the Indians, and the hatchet
buried with due solemnity. These events prepared the way for the
peaceable settlement of the country. About the years 1760 and 1761, in
consequence of the invitations of Governor Lawrence, a large number of
persons removed from the old American colonies, particularly Connecticut
and Massachusetts, attracted especially by the fertile lands from -which
the French Acadians had been driven. These settled Horton, Cornwallis,
Falmouth, Newport, Truro, Onslow, and some other portions of the
province. About the same time Colonel Alexander MacNutt brought out a
few families of north of Ireland people who settled in Londonderry,
giving that township the name of their native place. A few of the same
people also settled at Noel, on the opposite side of the bay, and have
extended through Colchester and part of Hants and Halifax counties. In
the year 1773 came the ship Hector to Pictou, the first emigrant vessel
from Scotland to this province. Since that time the emigration from
Scotland has been so constant, that the overwhelming majority of the
inhabitants of the eastern portion of Nova Scotia are either Scotch or
of Scottish descent, and probably more than half of the inhabitants of
the whole province are of the same character.
These successive
settlements considerably increased the population, yet from the failure
of land speculations in subsequent years, and from the American
revolutionary war the province rather retrograded, so that in 1781 the
English population was estimated at only 12,000. The conclusion of the
American war brought a large influx of population. Several regiments
which had served in the war were disbanded, and received grants of land
in various parts of the province. And large numbers of refugees, or
loyalists as they called themselves, preferring the protection of the
British Government, removed to Nova Scotia. Of this class it was
estimated that 20,000 landed during the years 1783 and 1784. A number of
these afterwards removed from the province, and in the latter year, New
Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Cape Breton were formed into
separate governments. So that the population of the province at the time
of his arrival would probably not exceed 30,000.
From this account of
the early colonization of the province, our readers will have a view of
the extent to which it was settled at the time of Dr. MacGregor’s
arrival, and the classes by which it was first peopled. There was
Halifax—containing a mixed population of three or four thousand—to the
westward was Lunenburg settled by Germans. The other leading places in
the west, as well as Onslow and Truro, were settled by emigrants from
the old colonies, especially New England. Londonderry was settled by
north of Ireland people, and a few of the same class had occupied some
neighbouring portions of Colchester and Hants counties. Amherst and
portions of Cumberland had received a body of emigrants from Yorkshire
and other places in the north of England, while Pictou and some portions
of Hants had been settled by emigrants from Scotland. Eastward of Pictou,
except the remnants of Acadian French in Cape Breton, there was scarcely
a settlement worthy of notice. Even the settlements referred to were
small, and the ground they occupied appeared but as spots upon the face
of the country.
We must, however, give
some account of the moral and religious condition of the inhabitants.
From what has been said, it will be seen that there was much in the
persons by whom the province was settled unfavourable to its social well
being. A large proportion of the population consisted of disbanded
soldiers and sailors, who were not only unfitted by the idle habits
acquired in the army and navy for any employment requiring industry and
perseverance, but introduced wide-spread profligacy. Then a portion of
the refugees, or loyalists as they were called, were very undeserving
the honour they received. Many of them doubtless left their homes in the
old colonies from a sincere attachment to British rule, and were men of
high principle. But others had joined the British cause from the hope of
plunder under British protection. There was no class whom the Americans
so detested,—and from what we have heard of some of them in Nova Scotia,
we believe that this character was not undeserved.
But “when the enemy
comes in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord will lift up a standard
against him.” Among the emigrants from different quartern, were many who
feared God, and loved his ordinances. The settlers from the old
colonies, who arrived both before and after the Revolutionary war,
brought with them not only the steady habits and the enterprise of New
England, but the religious principles of their Puritan forefathers. The
Germans carried hither the simple faith from which the churches of the
Fatherland had not then departed, while the Scotch and Scotch Irish as
thoroughly transplanted to this western wilderness the sturdy
Presbyterianism for which their covenanting forefathers had shed their
blood.
Already the gospel
standard was raised by ministers of different denominations. The Church
of England had its ministers in the province from the time that it was
first settled, supported partly by the British Government, and partly by
the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. A few old Methodists who
had emigrated from England, began about the year 1779 to hold meetings
among themselves for prayer and exhortation. Through these meetings
several persons were raised up as exhorters and occasional preachers.
Among these was Mr. Wm. Black, who was shortly after accepted as a
regular preacher, and was at this time, with several others, labouring
in various parts of the province. There were also a few
Congregationalist ministers in the Western part of the province. Several
Presbyterian clergymen had also arrived. The Rev. Andrew Brown,
afterward Professor of Rhetoric in the University of Edinburgh, had
arrived the same year, and was preaching in Halifax to a mixed
congregation of Scottish Presbyterians and New England
Congregationalists and three ministers of the Burgher Synod were already
prosecuting their labours.' The Baptist body, though now one of the most
numerous and influential in the province, had but few ministers or
churches, but that important movement, in which most of the Baptist
churches of the province originated, viz., the rise of what were called
the New Lights, had just reached its height. Without some account of
this, it would be impossible to give any thing like a view of the early
state of the province in a religious point of view.
This movement
originated with an individual named Henry Alline, who commenced of his
own notion, or as he regarded it, by the call of the Spirit of God, to
preach, as early as the year 177G. He first preached at Falmouth where
he had previously resided, and about Cornwallis and Horton. Having
gained adherents in these places, the people took .measures to have him
ordained, but difficulties having arisen on the part of the clergymen
applied to, he was ordained an itinerant preacher, by some laymen.
Shortly after he
published his peculiar views in a book entitled, "Two mites on some of
the most important and much disputed points of divinity, east into the
treasury for the poor and needy, and committed to the perusal of the
unprejudiced and impartial reader, by Henry Alline, servant of the Lord
to his churches.” There are but few copies of this work now in
existence, and we have never had the perusal of one; but we have seen a
considerable volume in reply to it, by the Rev. Jonathan Scott, of
Yarmouth, which contains copious extracts from it. It is not easy to
give a clear statement of his views, for his notions were so crude, that
he could not have defined them clearly himself. At one time he is an
Arminian, and at another time professes to confute their views. It may
be said, however, that he either denied all the leading doctrines of
Christianity, or so misrepresented them that he might as well have
denied them. The doctrines of election and the divine decrees he
especially assailed, and he has shown more than the usual ignorance on
the subject. The doctrine of original sin he professed to hold, but
explained it in the following manner: All the souls of the human race
were emanations from or parts of the one great Spirit,—and were actually
present in Eden at the making and breaking of the covenant, that we all
acted for ourselves on that occasion, and thus all the souls that have
ever lived or will ever live in the world, were actually in the first
transgression. He supposed that our first parents were pure spirits, and
that the material world was not then made. But, in order that mankind,
in consequence of the fall, might not sink into utter destruction, this
world was produced, and men clothed with material bodies, and in them
enjoy a state of probation for immortal happiness. Conversion he
explained as Christ’s “changing and taking possession of the inmost
soul, which is at the time of the change completely sanctified.” The
reason why man after conversion is not without sin, he explained thus,
“Man in his fallen state consists of body, soul, and spirit, an animal
or elemental body, a spiritual and immortal body, and an immortal mind.
And at the hour of conversion, the Son of God takes possession of the
inmost soul or immortal mind, but leaveth the fallen immortal body in
its fallen state still.” he denied the resurrection of the “elemental
bodies,” and maintained that they would be dissolved and burnt up. He
denied the utility of water baptism, but sometimes practised it when
desired.
There were other
subjects on which he broached some peculiar views, but the above will be
sufficient to show the crudeness of his notions. Indeed the extracts
from his writings that we have seen, would almost indicate unsoundness
of mind. Yet he was possessed of a lively and earnest mode of address as
a preacher, and in private his manner was very attractive to ordinary
people, so that he excited great attention wherever he went. Refusing
any thing like a pastoral charge, he traversed the then settled parts of
Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island, preaching his own
doctrines, or preaching on the ordinary subjects of Christian doctrine
and keeping his peculiar views in the background, depreciating the
regular ministers of the gospel or denouncing them in the lowest terms,
urging separation from other communions and forming societies after his
own model. So successful was he that there was scarcely a place that he
visited, in which he did not make a breach in the religious societies
already formed, to whatever denomination they might belong. After
prosecuting this course for several years, he went to the United States
in September 1783, and died on the February following, having
established a small scct in that country -who continued for a time under
the name of Allinites.
With all his fanaticism
we have reason to believe that he was a good man; and as he preached the
necessity of regeneration, and that in an earnest and impressive manner,
at a time and in places where there was a great want of sound gospel
ministrations, we may hope that through his instrumentality souls were
added to the Lord. Yet the good he did was accompanied by much evil, if
not more than counterbalanced by it. Every where he filled the minds of
people with delusive notions— puffing up the most ignorant with
extraordinary self-conceit of their spiritual enlightenment, and
substituting the fancies of a disordered imagination for the faith and
holiness of the gospel, and exciting to every extravagance, that would
render their religious proceedings a mockery. Every where he excited
division in other Christian societies, so that Mr. Scott, in his work
referred to, says, ‘‘Not only is our land overspread with tenets and
principles, which by their plain construction and meaning, and their
most natural and direct tendency, overthrow and destroy the doctrines of
divine revelation, but also this Province is overspread with religious
contentions, divisions, and separations, so that there is scarcely a
church or religious community in the Province, but what our author has
broken in upon, and drawn off a party from it by some means or other.”
We need not therefore wonder that he and his followers were, by other
denominations, generally regarded as enemies of the church.
It will be seen that
the founder of the sect had passed away a short time previous to Dr.
MacGregor’s arrival; but under the teachers whom he had commissioned,
the -movement was just at its height. If it is difficult to give a clear
account of his doctrines, it is more difficult to give an account of the
doctrines of his followers, as they not only differed from him, but from
one another; and under the claim to superior illumination from which
they derived their name, each new teacher proclaimed his own fancies as
the teaching of the Holy Spirit.
The Presbytery of
Pictou, in a letter some years later, thus describe them: “It is
impossible to give any just account of their principles, because like
the lips of the strange woman their 'ways are movable' that you cannot
know them. Their chief topics are plunging and conversion, concerning
the last of which they entertain very extravagant notions. They
evidently differ from one another in their sentiments, while they
profess to be agreed—yea, the very same persons affect to believe things
contradictory, and every new teacher or succeeding day brings a new
doctrine.” Dr. MacGregor afterwards describes their sentiments as “a
mixture of Calvinism, Antinomianism, and enthusiasm.” This seems to be
the most correct account of them that we have seen.
In general it may be
said of them that in their teaching they were characterized by the use
of Antinomian paradoxes, such as that sin would never hurt a
believer—that a believer was not bound by the law—that God loved a
believer even when falling into the vilest sins—and that such were sure
of salvation however they lived; that in their religious proceedings
they were characterized by the wildest extravagance, and that in their
outward conduct, many carried out their principles to their legitimate
issue. A missionary of the London Missionary Society, who came in
contact with them some years later, thus describes them, “They deny the
divine rite of infant baptism; they maintain that conviction is
conversion—that after they are converted they are freed from the
performance of every Christian duty—and that they are sure of salvation
though they live in the neglect of every command, and daily practice
every vice, so that among them Sabbath breaking, swearing, drinking, and
such like sins, are not considered sins against the blessed God.” This
picture of their moral principles, if applied to the whole, may be
considered overcharged, but it was too true of a large portion of them.
We may add in
explanation, that most of the churches founded by them afterward
received Baptist teachers, and adopted Baptist views. They thus
abandoned the notions of their founder, and since that time the
extravagance which marked the origin of the movement has been toned
down, and they have become more fixed in their theological principles.
From these most of the Baptist churches, particularly those of the Free
Will Baptists and Free Christian Baptists, in the Lower Provinces
originated. A few, however, continued under the original standard till a
very recent period.
But we must give a more
particular account of the early settlement of Pictou and its condition
at this time. This fine county, which formed the principal sphere of Dr.
MacGregor’s labours, and with the material and moral progress of which
his name is so intimately associated, lies on the southern shore of the
Straits of Northumberland. It is about forty miles long by about twenty
in breadth. Its coast is indented by a number of harbours, the principal
of which are River John, Carriboo, Pictou, and Merigomish. Into these
flow River John, the East, West, and Middle Rivers of Pictou, and
Sutherland, French, and Barney’s River of Merigormish, besides smaller
streams, so that it is well watered throughout. Along the shore the land
is generally level, but in the interior, ranges of hills extend in every
direction, presenting scenery of the most varied and beautiful
description. A range of higher elevation, being a branch of the Cobequid
hills, extends along the western boundary. Another range traverses the
southern portions of the county, which, though not rising to as great an
elevation, has a broken and rocky appearance.
It has no marsh land,
but along its rivers is much valuable intervals, and much of the upland
soil even to the summits of the hills is fertile, and every where it is
capable of cultivation. It has also abundance of mineral resources,
especially coal, iron ore, freestone, gypsum, and limestone.
Although Pictou is now
the first agricultural county in the province, and has a larger
population than any other, with the exception of the Metropolitan county
of Halifax, yet it was one of the latest in being settled. The French
had made no permanent settlement there at all. They had visited the
place, and, just before the final cession of Nova Scotia to the English,
had made preparation fur occupying it, but they never accomplished their
purpose.
In the year 17G5, a
grant of 200,000 acres of land, embracing the western part of the county
and part of the county of Colchester, was made to fourteen persons in
the city of Philadelphia, usually known as the Philadelphia Company.
Some of the shares were afterward transferred, so that the celebrated
Dr. Witherspoon, and John Pagan of Greenock, became proprietors. The
condition of their grant was that they should settle so many families
upon it within a given time. Before however their grant was actually
laid out, Col. MacNutt obtained a grant of a considerable block of land,
where the town of Pictou now stands, and extending a considerable
distance along the shore of the harbour. This grant was afterward
transferred to Governor Patterson, and has been commonly known since as
the Cochrane grant.
The Philadelphia
company sent the first band of settlers to Pictou. They consisted of six
families from the borders of Pennsylvania and Maryland, who sailed from
Philadelphia in May 17G7, in a small vessel called the Hope, of Rhode
Island, Captain Hull. Having been delayed by calling at Halifax to
obtain information regarding the coast around, they reached Pictou
Harbour on the 10th of June. The people of Truro having heard of them in
Halifax, several persons set out to meet them and arrived at the harbour
the same afternoon. They saw the vessel coming up the harbour, and
kindled fires on the shore to attract those on board farther up. The
latter saw the fires, but concluded that they were made by the savages,
and held a consultation whether they should oppose them or submit to
them, and resolved upon resistance.
On the following
morning they saw the party from Truro coming alone shore, and by
examining them with their spyglasses found that they were white people.
That afternoon they landed at the point on Mr. Thomas Waller’s farm just
above Halliburton stream. The prospect before them was dreary indeed.
One unbroken forest extended to the water’s edge, an alder swamp
occupied the lower portions of what is now the town of Pictou, and there
were no inhabitants, but Indians, whom they feared as savages. Mrs.
Patterson used to tell that she leaned her head against a tree, which
stood on the point, in despair. She thought that if there was a broken
hearted creature in the world, she was the one. It was, however, no time
for giving way to despondency, and they commenced erecting their
shanties and preparing for a settlement. They had a supply of provisions
and each was allotted a farm lot. They discovered however that Governor
Patterson had obtained the most eligible site for a town. They did
however lay out a town at Waller’s Point already referred to, but it was
never built.
Of the six families who
came in the Hope, two removed to Truro, the remaining four set to work
energetically to provide for their support, but of course little crop
could be raised that season. For some time they obtained a large portion
of their food by hunting, a work in which they usually had the
assistance of the Indians, whose jealousy however it sometimes required
all their address to allay; or by catching the fish with which the
harbour and rivers abounded. On the following spring they proceeded to
Truro for seed potatoes. Though the distance is only forty miles it
required three days to perform the journey, there being no path, and
they being the first even to make a blaze on their course. They carried
home on their backs what they planted that year. The proceeds were not
sufficient for their subsistence during the subsequent winter. In the
following spring they again proceeded to Truro for a supply of seed, but
they only brought the eyes, which they had scooped out of the potatoes.
They could carry a large quantity of them, which yielded enough to keep
them the following season.
The heads of the
families which remained were Robert Patterson, Dr. John Harris, John
Rogers, and John MacCabe. About a year after their arrival they were
joined by two families from Truro, and two or three from Cumberland, and
in the year 1771 a few more families removed from Philadelphia to join
their brethren. Some trade also was carried on, but several got
discouraged by the long and cold winters, so that little progress was
made, till the arrival of the ship Hector, with passengers from Scotland
in the year 1773, from which time the actual settlement of the place may
be dated.
Some of the proprietors
of the Philadelphia company offered liberal terms for the settlement of
their grant. They made an agreement with one John Ross, by which they
were to give him and every person he might bring to this country a
certain quantity of land. These proposals were eagerly embraced by
numbers, who knew not the hardships of settling a new country. About
thirty families, most of them Highlanders, allured by the prospect of
owning a farm, bade adieu to the land of their nativity, and arrived at
Pictou on the 15th September following. The Hector had been ill
provided, so that eighteen died during the passage and were cast into
the sea, and when she arrived there were some either dying or dead. The
latter were buried on the beach, while the living were landed at Brown’s
point, without provisions, and left to provide shelter and food for
themselves as best they might.
It being so late in the
season when they arrived, of course no crop could be got into the ground
that year. The Hector was immediately despatched to Philadelphia to
bring back a supply of provisions. But by the time she returned, the
settlers having found that the Philadelphia grant, which they had come
to settle, extended far into the interior with only a small frontage on
the shore, and that occupied by those who had previously arrived, they
refused to occupy it. They were afraid of Indians and wild beasts, and
besides, unprovided as they were with compasses, they were liable to be
lost in the woods, and they were shut out from what they soon saw must
for a time prove their principal dependance for subsistence, the fish in
the harbour and rivers. When the Hector returned, and it was found that
they had refused to settle the company’s grant, the provisions were
refused. A jealousy also arose between them and the American settlers,
so that the latter did not so readily render the assistance, which they
might have done under other circumstances. A dispute also arose between
Ross and the company. They refused his demands, and soon after he
abandoned the passengers he had brought out, so that they were left
without food, and entirely destitute of means to provide for themselves.
And even difficulties were thrown in the way of their getting their
grants, and being unaccustomed to hunting they were reduced to great
distress. Most of them moved away to Truro, or places adjacent, and some
even to Halifax and Windsor, to obtain by their labour the necessary
means of support for their families. Some went that season, but others
not till afterward. Those who remained had only rude camps to shelter
themselves and their families, during the winter, of the inclemency of
which they had previously no conception. To obtain food for their
families, they had to proceed to Truro through a trackless forest and in
deep snow, and there obtaining a bushel or two of potatoes and sometimes
a little flour, in exchange for their labour, they had to return
carrying their small supply on their backs, or in winter dragging it on
hand sleds through snow, sometimes three or four feet deep.
Those who remained got
on pretty well the two following seasons. Timber of the best quality
abounded, and American vessels came in which supplied them with
necessaries in exchange for staves, shingles, &c. And they were
beginning to surmount their difficulties, when the American
Revolutionary war broke out, and this branch of trade being stopped,
they were cut off from all supplies from abroad. Even salt could not be
obtained except by boiling down sea water, and in summer the settlers
might be seen in fine weather, spending days at the shore preparing
their winter’s supply.
The breaking out of the
American war increased the jealousy between them and the American
settlers. The Scotch were decided loyalists, while those who had come
from Philadelphia, as well as most of the inhabitants of Truro and the
adjacent settlements, had a very warm sympathy with the Americans. A
number of the former, joined by reinforcements from Truro, seized a
valuable vessel belonging to Captain Lowden, then loading in the harbour,
and started off to join the Americans, who then had possession of the
country about Bay Yerte. On one occasion at least they were in danger
from the Americans. Two American armed vessels, probably the same which
plundered Charlotte Town and carried off the President administering the
government, appeared off the entrance of the harbour threatening to
plunder the people. But one of the first settlers named Horton went on
board, and represented that there were only a few poor Scotch people
there just commencing a settlement, and having nothing worth taking
away. Through his persuasion they left them unmolested.
We cannot give the
names of all the passengers by the ship Hector, but their descendants
embrace a large proportion of the inhabitants of Pictou, such as the
MacKays and Frasers, of the East River, the MacKenzies, MacLeods,
MacDonalds, Ma-thesons, Camerons, and Frasers, of West River and Loch
Broom, and the Douglasses, MacDonalds, and Frasers, of Middle River.
These settlers had
scarcely surmounted the first difficulties of their settlement, when
they were again, plunged into difficulties by the influx of a class in
poorer circumstances than themselves. These were a body of emigrants,
who had been sent out from Dumfriesshire by one of the proprietors of
Prince Edward Island to settle his land. They landed at Three Rivers,
part of them in the year 1774, and part of them in the following year,
and were left in a state of almost entire destitution. They continued
there about eighteen months, and I have heard the most affecting tales
of the sufferings they endured. In summer their principal means of
subsistence 'was the shell-fish, which they gathered on the shore. They
sowed seed, but the crop, even the potatoes planted were devoured by
mice. In winter they were reduced to the very verge of starvation. Their
principal source of relief was a settlement of French people some miles
distant. From them they received supplies, principally of potatoes, in
exchange for the clothes they had brought with them from Scotland, until
they scarcely retained sufficient to cover themselves decently. From
want of food the men became reduced to such a state of weakness, and the
snow was so deep, that they were scarcely able to carry back provisions
for their families; and when with slow steps and heavy labour they
brought them home, such had been the state in which they had left the
children, that they trembled to enter their dwellings, lest they should
find them dead, and sometimes waited at the door listening for any
sound, that might indicate that they were yet alive.
Having heard that there
was food in Pictou, they despatched one of their number to enquire into
the prospects there. His report was on the whole so favourable, that
fifteen families immediately removed over. They arrived in almost entire
destitution, and though the Highlanders received them with all the
kindness in their power, yet their supplies were quite inadequate to
meet such an influx, and were soon consumed. The result was a great
aggravation of their hardships. An aged female in my congregation
recollects that for two or three months in summer after the seed was
committed to the ground, she and other children were obliged to live on
berries and nettles. They were sent to the woods during part of the day
to gather wild fruits, and the only other meal consisted of nettles
boiled to form a sort of greens; and the late Andrew Marshall used to
tell that his father had actually beaten him for refusing to eat beech
leaves boiled, which he would not do for the simple reason that his
stomach refused them. Though these people arrived in such destitution,
they were among the most valuable of the early settlers of Pictou, and
their descendants to this day, both in the church and in civil society,
are among the most respectable members of the community. They embrace
the MacLeans, Smiths, MacLellans, Blaikies, Clarks, Marshalls, Cultons,
Brydones, Crocketts, Turnbulls, &c.
The circumstances of
the settlers however soon improved. By cutting the timber and burning it
on the land, which however could only be done with great labour, they
were enabled to sow wheat and plant potatoes among the stumps, and
covering them with the hoe, they derived from them a plentiful return.
They learned too to hunt moose, by which means they had a supply of meat
for the winter—to make sugar from the juice of the maple, and to catch
the fish which abounded in the harbours and rivers. They were still
however at a loss for British goods, but in the year 1779, John
Patterson, afterward known as Deacon Patterson, went to Scotland and
brought out a supply, and afterward continued to trade, taking wheat
from the people in exchange for British merchandise.
The next accession to
the settlers was at the peace with the United States in 1783. A large
number of disbanded soldiers who had served in the war arrived in the
fall of that year, and in the following spring. They had received a
large grant of land, still called the 82nd Grant, embracing Fisher’s
Grant, and extending eastward to Merigormish, and were to receive
rations of food for some time. But the habits of the army ill fitted
them for the work of clearing the forest, or for any employment
requiring industry and perseverance. A number of them were Highland
Catholics from the island of Barra, very ignorant. These, drawn together
by the ties of religion and clanship, moved farther east along the gulf
shore. There would probably be fifty of them remaining when Dr.
MacGregor came. Most of them were idle and profligate, but a few were
sober and industrious, and their descendants are among the most
respectable members of the community. Among these may be mentioned the
Carmichaels, Iveses, Ballantynes of Cape George, Smiths, Simpsons, and
MacDonalds of Merigomish, &c.
In the latter summer
there arrived a small band of Highlanders, who had also served in the
American war. They had just arrived at New York, when the war commenced.
Orders had been sent out by the Home Government to raise a regiment
among the emigrants from Britain to serve “until the present unnatural
rebellion be suppressed,” with the promise, in addition to regular pay,
of 200 acres of land at the close of the war, and 50 acres additional
for each child. They were induced partly by threats and partly by
persuasion to enlist in the regiment thus raised, which was called the
84th Royal Highland Emigrants. Having served during the war, most of
them obtained their land on Nine Mile River and Kennetcook, but a few
obtained theirs on the upper settlement of the East River of Pictou.
These were very steady, industrious settlers, and their descendants
embrace the Grants, MacDonalds, Chisholms, MacMillans, MacNaughtons,
Camerons, and Forbeses of that quarter.
During that summer
(1784) a few families of Highlanders, who with a number of others had
arrived at Halifax, removed to Pictou, and settled on the East River.
The most noteworthy of these were Thomas Fraser and Simon Fraser, who
had been elders in the parish of Kirkhill, and who will be noticed
hereafter.
Such were the settlers
of Pictou previous to Dr. MacGregor’s arrival, and we must now notice
briefly their social and moral condition. We need scarcely say that they
were still very poor. The following was the general construction of
their huts : The sides and ends were composed of logs, generally in
their round state, laid upon one another, with moss stuffed between
them, while the roof was formed of the bark of trees, cut in pieces of
equal length, disposed in regular tiers, the ends and the edges
overlapping, and kept in their places by poles running the whole length
of the building, placed on the ends of each range of bark, and fastened
at the ends of the building by withs. Except in dimensions they might
answer the description given by the Poet of Ellen’s bower:
"It was a Iotlgo of
ample size.
But strange of structure and device,
Of such materials as around,
The workman's hand had readiest found.
Lopped of their boughs, their hoar trunks bared
And by the hatchet rudely squared,
To give the walls their destined height
The sturdy oak and ash unite;
While moss, and clay, and leaves combined,
To fence each crevice from the wind;
The lighter pine trees overhead,
Their slender length for rafters spread;
And withered heath and rushes dry,
Supplied a russet canopy.”
Our readers at a
distance however must not suppose that in the reality such a building
possessed the charms with which it is invested in the imagination of the
poet. Their furniture was of the rudest description, frequently a block
of wood or a rude bench, made out of a slab, in which four sticks had
been inserted as legs, served for chair or table. Their food was
commonly served up in wooden dishes or in wooden plates, and eaten with
wooden spoons, except when, discarding such interventions, they adopted
the more direct method of gathering round the pot of potatoes on the
floor. And among the new comers at least, a little straw formed the only
bed. Money was scarcely seen, and almost all trade was done by barter;
wheat, and maple sugar, being the principal circulating medium.
They were also very
ignorant. Few of the Highlanders could read. Of course there were but
few books among them. In general they were particularly ignorant in
regard to religion.
Of the first settlers,
the Harrises and Squire Patterson were Presbyterians, the father of the
former being from the north of Ireland, and the latter from Scotland,
and they as well as others maintained a respect for the duties of
religion. Among the Highlanders some were decidedly pious, of whom Colin
Douglass and Kenneth Fraser are especially worthy of notice, but among
the rest the state of religion was very low. So little did a number of
them know or care about the subject, that we have heard it said, that if
a clever priest had come here at the time that Dr. MacGregor did, the
one half would have become Roman Catholics. An individual still living,
told the writer, that at the first funeral he ever attended, being that
of a child, the father, a nominal Protestant and Presbyterian too, as
soon as the grave was completed, kneeled down at the foot and commenced
praying for the departed. And I have heard of a father and mother
kneeling down, the one at the head and the other at the foot of their
child’s grave, to pray for it. It is even said that some of them were in
the habit of praying to the Virgin Mary. The settlers from Dumfriesshire
were however more intelligent and much better instructed in religious
matters.
Until Dr. MacGregor’s
arrival, they had never enjoyed the regular ministrations of the gospel.
They were not however without the means of grace. In the petition from
Pictou for a minister it is said, that “the Philadelphia company made
provision for and sent a minister, viz., the Rev. James Lyon, at the
first settlement, yet he did not continue among us, which very much
discouraged the people, and was exceedingly detrimental to the settling
of the place.” Mr. Lyon was one of the proprietors of the Philadelphia
company. How long he remained in Pictou we have not been able to
ascertain. From the records of the Presbytery of New Brunswick, New
Jersey, by which he was ordained, it appears that he was in the Province
in the year 1772, and that the Presbytery corresponded with him till
that date. Wherever he laboured, it was not in Pictou, where the only
memorial of his presence is the name Lyon’s Brook, still given to a
small stream about three miles from the town of Pictou, on the side of
which he had taken up land.
The pious settlers
however, in the absence of a minister, put forth their best efforts to
maintain religion among themselves, and to impress it upon the rising
generation. Among the first settlers was one named James Davidson, who
was instrumental in doing much good. Even before the arrival of the
Hector’s passengers, he gathered the young for religious instruction on
the Sabbath day, at Lyon’s Brook. This was the first Sabbath-school in
the county of Pictou, and I think I may safely say in the Province, and
was established some time before Haikes commenced that movement, which
has rendered these institutions every where a part of the machinery of
the Christian Church.
The Scottish settlers,
too, were not unmindful of the lessons of their native land. They were
accustomed to assemble on the Sabbath day for religious worship, Robert
Marshall holding what the Highlanders call “a reading” in English, and
Colin Douglass in Gaelic. The exercises at these meetings consisted of
praise and prayer, and especially, as their name indicated, reading the
Scriptures and religious works. Marshall was a man of great theological
information, and good gifts. Douglass had not the same gifts, but he was
one of the few among the Highlanders who could read tolerably well. But
there were scarcely any books in Gaelic, and as the old people among the
Highlanders understood no English, they were under great disadvantages.
The books in English were also few. Even those that the Dumfries people
had brought out with them had been mostly consumed by the mice in Prince
Edward Island. The few they possessed were well used. An imperfect copy
of Boston’s Fourfold State did good service. An old man, still living at
the age of eighty-eight, dates back some of his earliest religious
impressions to the reading of it, and retains such a feeling of
veneration for the work as to regard it as next to the Bible the best
book ever produced. Of these meetings we cannot help thinking, that they
realized the divine word: “Then they that feared the Lord spake often
one to another, and the Lord hearkened and heard it, and a book of
remembrance was written before him for them that feared the Lord, and
that thought upon his name.”
A larger supply of
books was obtained after the late John Patterson visited Scotland in
1779. lie had before leaving Scotland built a number of small cottages
on what was called a thirty-nine year tack, at Quarrelltown, in the
neighbourhood of Paisley his native town, and during his absence the
rents had accumulated to about Ł80. This he invested partly in goods,
but principally in books. Returning by way of New York he bought a large
supply of the New England Primer. Blessed book ! In how many youthful
minds hast thou sowed the seeds of heavenly truth ! Young as we are, we
too have tender recollections of thee. Thy very shape and appearance was
peculiar. Thy form was square, a figure well chosen to represent
perfection. Thy paper was dark in colour and somewhat dingy in
appearance, as well beseemed the modest humility of thy character. We
have seen thee since in perfectly white paper, in shape like an ordinary
catechism, with bright red cover— Pah! thou art not the Primer of our
youth. As well present to us John Knox in the picture of a modern dandy,
with Joinville necktie, or his renowned daughter Mrs. Welsh, in hoops
and crinoline. Then thy frontispiece with the picture of John Rogers
perishing in the flames, while his wife and ten children were standing
by. Did ever work in gallery of Fine Arts excite more attention and
study, and influence a greater number of minds for good, impressing upon
them the principles of religious liberty, and instilling into them the
martyr spirit of Christianity, than did that same old wood cut ? Then
its contents, how did we go through its alphabet with two lines of rhyme
and an illustrative picture for each letter, beginning at that
foundation truth of theology.
And then the Shorter
Catechism,—But we must stop. O New England! where hast thou been
drifting in thy morals and theology, since that primer has gone from thy
schools and thy households, even as the glory from Israel.
But to our narrative.
These were distributed gratuitously among the young; all that was
required of them being that they should learn the contents, which they
did very rapidly.
They also received
occasional ministerial service. As early as the year 1780, and probably
before, they were visited by the Rev. Daniel Cock and the Rev. David
Smith. For several summers previous to Dr. MacGregor’s arrival, one of
them, but most frequently Mr. Cock, visited them, preaching for a week
or two in private houses or in the open air, and baptizing children. The
people deemed it absolutely necessary to attend to this last service.
Hence even the Highlanders got their children baptized, although
sometimes they scarcely understood a single word that the minister said.
Indeed the people considered themselves under Mr. Cock’s charge, and a
number of them used to travel to Truro to attend his sacraments, and in
some instances parents carried their children over to be baptized.
They also received some
visits from stragglers. The renowned Henry Alline visited them. In his
journal he says, under date July 25th, 1782, “Got to a place called
Plcto, where I had no thought of making any stay, but finding the Spirit
to attend my preaching I staid there thirteen days, and preached in all
the different parts of the settlement. I found four Christians in this
place, who were greatly revived and rejoiced that the gospel was sent
among them.” He preached at Alexander Fraser’s at the lower end of the
Middle River, in William Mac-Kay’s barn on the East River, and his last
sermon was preached at the head of the harbour. On that occasion he got
some of the most intelligent of the Highlanders to translate into
Gaelic. There were also some Indians present whom he addressed in
French. He had a very free and sociable turn with him in private, his
conversation being distinguished by readiness in quoting Scripture, and
his manner was very engaging. A number of the people were taken with
him, and two or three particularly so. He did not broach any of his
peculiar views. Some of the old people however were dubious about him.
Colin Douglass, at parting from him, said, “I am not very sure about
you; I like what you say very well, but you did not come in by the
door,” alluding to the irregular mode of his entering the ministry.
“Oh,” replied Alline, “I had no opportunity of coming iu any other way
than by the window. But you just follow me as far as I follow Christ.”
Robert Marshall, on bidding him farewell, said, “If you are a true
minister of Christ, may the Lord prosper you, and if you are not, I hope
that we may never see your face again.” After his departure Mr. Cock
visited them to warn them against him. He asked Colin Douglass what he
thought of Mr. A’s preaching. He replied, that what he understood, he
liked very well, but some of what he said he did not understand, which
he attributed to his own ignorance (an exhibition of wisdom not common
among hearers of the gospel in our day). “ Oh,” said Mr. Cock, “ that is
just the way he would act with you. If he wanted to drown you he would
not take you into a deep place at first. He would take you in where the
water was only to the knees, and afterward take you in deeper until
finally he would souse you overhead.” As an example of the poverty of
some of the first settlers at that time, it may be mentioned that Robert
Marshall borrowed Colin Douglass’s coat to hear him one day, while Colin
wore it himself on the next. Alline, hearing of his circumstances, took
off his own coat, and gave him his vest.
They were also visited
by the Rev. James Fraser, who had been a chaplain in the army during the
American war, and who had laboured for some time at Onslow. He was but
an indifferent character, and afterward moved to Miramichi.
But there was a strong
desire to have the services of a settled minister. A meeting was
accordingly held in the summer of 1784, at which it was resolved to
endeavour to obtain the services of a minister for themselves. For this
purpose they engaged to pay annually the sum of Ł80, for the first two
years, Ł90 for the two succeeding years, and Ł100 afterward, which they
agreed to increase as their means enabled them, besides paying his
passage out. A committee was appointed to send to Scotland a petition
for a minister. Their petition, which was drawn up by Mr. Cock, is given
in the Appendix, and the result, as already described, was the securing
the services of Dr. MacGregor.
This account of the
early social and moral condition of Pictou, though it may be deemed by
some unnecessary to our work, will, we believe, assist in giving the
reader some idea of the scene of the Doctor’s labours at the time of his
entering upon it. We shall return to his own narrative in our next
chapter. |