“What manner of entering
in we had unto you.”—1 Thesa. i. 9.
“On Thursday, 18th
(July,) a farmer from Truro, one of Mr. Cock’s hearers, offered, if I
would start next day, to accompany me through the woods to Truro, which
would be sixty miles of the hundred to Pictou. I hired a horse, and we
set off on Friday afternoon on a good road, but a miserably rocky soil.
About eleven miles from Halifax the road grew worse, but the woods
became gradually better, till their beauty, strength, and loftiness far
surpassed any thing of the kind I had ever seen in the Highlands. I
imagined myself riding through the policies of a Scottish duke; but the
policies of no Scottish duke can compare in grandeur with the forests of
Nova Scotia. After riding two or three miles through this beautiful
scene, I began to look for a house, but no house, great or small,
appeared; till after we had ridden eight miles more, there appeared a
small clearing in rocky land, where, after supping upon good bread,
fish, and bohea tea, we lodged for the night. Thenceforth we had no
road. A narrow avenue had been cut down indeed, and some of the trunks,
cut across, and rolled a little out of the way, but many of them lay as
they fell, and none of the stumps or roots were removed.
“In proportion as the
land became less rocky, and in every place where it was wet, the horses
had to wade nearly to the knees, and often far above them, in mud or
water, and the one horse behoved to put his foot in the very spots where
the other before him put his. Next morning we rode eight miles before we
breakfasted, which we did on fish, bread, and tea : then with great
exertion and fatigue (to me) eighteen miles to dinner, which again was
composed of bread, fish, and tea. I was very thankful for our safety, as
the greatest part of the road was both difficult and dangerous, on
account of the many swamps full of roots and logs, which we had to pass.
I was attentive to direct the horse as dexterously as possible, and keep
a good bridle hand, and often ascribed the safety of both to my cautious
management. But at last we came to a place so apparently dangerous, that
it seemed quite impossible to escape without broken bones. There was no
way to get to a side, or to go back, and the horse was in such haste to
get on, that he did not allow time to think. I threw the bridle upon his
neck in perfect despair. How amazed was I to find myself completely
delivered from the great danger in a few seconds by the sagacity of a
mere beast! This incident was of great use to me afterwards, by
inspiring me with perfect confidence in the horses reared in the forest
here. Toward evening we came to the river Stewiacke, where there was a
considerable clearing on the side of the river, and the soil very
fertile. It is called intervale in Nova Scotia, and haugh or dale in
Scotland.
“The river was small,
though still and deep; and seeing neither boat nor bridge, I thought
only of swimming across it, but my companion showed me a trough on the
edge of the river on the other side, told me that it was one of the
canoes of Nova Scotia, and that it would carry us over in safety.
Perceiving a man mowing hay at some distance, on the same side of the
river with the canoe, my fellow-traveller called aloud to him. He
understood that we wanted a passage, at once threw aside his scythe, and
on reaching the river turned the canoe upon its side, to empty it of
some water which it had leaked, launched it, and quickly paddled it over
to us. He directed us to take the saddles off our horses, and helped us
to drive them into the river, to swim across. Putting my saddle in the
bottom of the canoe, he desired me to sit down upon it; I did so, and he
ferried me across quickly and safely, and afterwards my companion in the
same manner. These operations being new to me, I observed them with no
small degree of curiosity. The man was dressed iu a home made check or
woollen shirt, and striped trousers, without hat, handkerchief, or
stocking. I admired his dress, as the best I had seen for labourers in
hot weather, which was now the case in a high degree. He accompanied us
to his house, put our horses to pasture, and lodged us hospitably. Here
again we supped on bread, fish, and tea, so that I began to conclude
that there were no other eatables in Nova Scotia. Upon inquiry, I was
told that the country people could not afford meat, as it kept fresh for
only a very short time in such hot weather; but that fish could be had
at any time, as almost every house stood beside a stream, and the fish
were plentiful in proportion to the scarcity of the inhabitants. We had
passed three houses only during the whole day, and each was by a stream.
I was also told that they caught fish in winter, when the ice was a foot
thick, as well as in summer, merely by cutting a hole through the ice,
and letting down a baited hook. The fish, seeing the light by the hole,
come to it immediately, and bite readily. It was said, moreover, to be
common for country people to keep beef, moose meat, and caribou meat (I
suppose the same as the elk and reindeer) fresh, in the snow, for three
months.
“The house in which we
lodged consisted of a kitchen and two or three bed-closets, with a
garret for lumber, and a sleeping-place for some of the children. We all
sat in the kitchen, and here I had an opportunity of seeing how the
country women prepared their bread. After kneading the dough, the
landlady formed it into a beautiful large cake of an oval form, nearly
an inch thick, swept a hot part of the hearth clean, and there laid it
flat. She then spread over it a thin layer of fine cold ashes, and over
that a thick layer of hot ashes, mixed with burning coals. By the time
the tea-kettle boiled, the bread was baked. The landlady with a
fire-shovel removed the ashes, and took it off the hearth; and then,
after a little agitation to shake off the ashes, she wiped it with a
cloth, much cleaner than I could have expected when it was laid down. It
made very good and agreeable bread. It seems this was the way of baking
bread in the days of Abraham, (Gen. xviii. 6.) It is a speedy way; and,
though not clean, still not so foul as a stranger would imagine. Some
cover the cake with paper when it is laid upon the hearth, which keeps
it perfectly clean, but this is not a common mode. Our host, I suppose,
kept up family worship, for the Bible was at hand, and laid it on the
table after supper, which I had seen done before.
“My companion roused
rue pretty early next morning, which was Sabbath, intending to be at
Truro to attend public worship. I did not relish the idea of travelling
on the Lord’s day, but could not persuade him to stay; and, having found
him extremely useful, I thought it a work of necessity to accompany him.
When we went to the pasture to saddle our horses, his was not to be
found. We sought for it a long time, but in vain. I then proposed to
stay where we were till next day. Truro was but fourteen miles off, and
we might still be in time for sermon, had the road been tolerable; but
it was no better than what we had travelled already. He replied that we
could be at Truro in time for the afternoon service; that doubtless his
horse was moving slowly homeward, eating as he went, and that probably
we would overtake him after travelling a mile or two. So saying, he took
his saddle and bridle on his own back, and invited me to come along with
him. I obeyed, as I could not think either of travelling alone, or
waiting till chance would bring forward another traveller, which might
not be for a number of days. We overtook the horse, as he expected, and
reached Truro by the time the afternoon’s service was to begin; but I
was so fatigued as to be fit for nothing but rest.
"On Monday, I went to
pay my respects to the Rev. Daniel Cock, the minister of Truro; a man of
warm piety, kind manners. and primitive simplicity. He received me with
great kindness; but when we came to speak of uniting, as members of the
same presbytery, he was disappointed, and a little chagrined at my
refusal, lie was the more disappointed, as he was the writer of the
petition which the Pictou people sent home, and never had doubted but
that the person it would bring out would sit in presbytery with him;
besides, he had given most supply of sermon and other ordinances to the
Pictou people previous to my arrival. He accompanied me next day to
Londonderry, fifteen miles down the Bay of Fundy, to visit the Rev.
David Smith, then minister of that place. lie was a man of more learning
and penetration, but less amiable, than Mr. Cock. His untoward
disposition had alienated a great part of the congregation from him. He
proposed several judicious considerations to induce me to join the
presbytery; but at that time they had no influence upon me. I believe
that every honest Scottish emigrant that goes abroad, carries with him a
conscientious attachment to the peculiarities of his profession, which
nothing but time and a particular acquaintance with the country he goes
to will enable him to lay aside. It may be so with more than Scotchmen:
it was so with me. They both informed me that their presbytery was to
meet that day two weeks, and proposed to me to come to the presbytery,
to preach to it, and to converse with the members about the point in
question. To all these things I agreed. Mr. Cock and I lodged with Mr.
Smith that night, and next day we returned to Truro.
“I understood that two
gentlemen of Truro intended to go to Pictou on Friday; therefore I
waited willingly for their company. Till this time there had been no
road from Truro to Pictou but a blaze; that is, a chip taken off every
tree, in the direction which the road should have, to help the traveller
to keep straight on: but a number of Pictou Highlanders were now cutting
down the trees where the road was intended to be; for the Government had
voted money to open it. My companions had taken with them a small flask
full of rum and a ham of lamb, to refresh us by the way, as it was too
far to travel fasting, and there was no public house. Just as we thought
it time to take our snack; wc came to a place where there was a patch of
good grass, and a boiling pot hung on sticks, laid on two forked sticks
stuck in the ground. Here we took our snack. The ham rather more than
sufficing us, we agreed to put the bones and the remaining meat into the
pot, that the roadmen might get the good of them. We then took each a
mouthful out of the flask, and mounted our horses. By-and-by we met two
men on foot going toward Truro, and coming to the roadmen, I told them
in Gaelic that I was the minister expected to Pictou. They all came and
shook hands with me, and welcomed me cordially.
“It was well for my
companions and me that the two men went along, otherwise we stood fair
for a good threshing. The Highlanders went by-and-by to their dinner,
and finding the meat and bones in the pot, were exasperated to the
highest degree against those who did it, and vowed revenge, imagining
that it was done purely to insult them. As it could not, in their
opinion, be done by any of the decent gentlemen who went to Pictou, it
must have been done by the two footmen who went to Truro. They were so
persuaded of this, that the two most fiery of them set off after them to
give them a drubbing; but having pursued them three or four miles
without overtaking them, they returned—not forgetting, however, to
publish that, if ever they came to Pictou, they might expect broken
bones. I took occasion, when they returned home, after finishing their
job on the road, to inform them who put the meat and bones into the pot,
and from what motive it was done. They were satisfied; but I saw it
needful to caution them against such rashness hereafter.
“Before night, we
arrived at George MacConnell’s, the nearest house to Truro." This road
was better than the road between Pictou and Halifax; for as few horses
had ever passed on it, the surface was not broken nor cut into holes,
like the other. I had a hearty welcome from George; but as there was
only one apartment in his house, he took me over, for lodging, to his
next neighbour’s, William Smith, in whose house there was a sort of two.
I had now arrived within the bounds of my congregation, and had a sample
of it; but the sample was better than the stock. William Smith was an
active, public spirited man; but he did not live long, and his death was
to me the death of half the congregation. Having asked Smith where it
would be most proper to have sermon on Sabbath, he answered at Squire
Patterson’s, which was ten miles off, one half of which must be
travelled by land and the other by water. I requested him to give notice
of it as widely as possible. He said he would; and did it so
effectually, that they came to the sermon from every corner in Pictou,
except the upper settlement of the East River.
“Next morning, I moved
down the West River toward the harbour and Squire Patterson’s. William
Smith accompanied me past two or three of the houses, at which we
called, and delivered me to Hugh Fraser, afterward an elder, who engaged
to see me safe at Squire Patterson’s. We called at the remaining houses
down the West River, then travelled three miles without a house, when
the harbour appeared—a beautiful sheet of water, very much like one of
the Highland lakes in Scotland, about nine miles long and one broad. It
is an excellent harbour, but its entrance is rather narrow. Three rivers
run into it. The West River falls into the west end or head of it; and
the Middle and East River into the south side of it. The rivers are
small, none of them having a run of thirty miles; but the East River is
as large as the other two, and is often called by the Highlanders the
Great River. The greatest detriment it sustains is by its freezing for
three or four months in winter, so that uo vessel can come in or go out.
When I looked round the shores of the harbour, I was greatly
disappointed and cast down, for there was scarcely any thing to be seen
but woods "rowing down to the water’s edge. Here and there a mean timber
hut was visible in a small clearing, which appeared no bigger than a
garden compared to the woods. Nowhere could I see two houses without
some wood between them. I asked Hugh Fraser, ‘Where is the town?’ He
replied, "There is no town but what you see." The petition sent
home had the word township in it, whence I had foolishly inferred that
there was a town in Pictou. The reader may have some conception of my
disappointments, when he is informed that I had inferred also the
existence of many comforts in the town, and among them a barber, for I
had never been partial to the operation of shaving. My disappointments
were immensely discouraging to me; for I looked on myself as an exile
from the Church and society. I saw that Nova Scotia, and especially
Pictou, was very far behind the idea which I had formed of them. I
renounced at once all idea of ever seeing a town in Pictou. Nothing but
necessity kept me there; for I durst not think of encountering the
dangerous road to Halifax again, and there was no vessel in Pictou to
take me away, and even had there been one, I had not money to pay my
passage home.
“Hugh Fraser, having
borrowed a canoe, paddled me along, with a good deal of labour, to
Squire Patterson’s, but it was much nearer than going by land. I was
received by the squire and his lady with every mark of the most sincere
kindness. They were of the very first settlers of Pictou, and had all
along maintained a Christian character; and now rejoiced in the prospect
of enjoying public ordinances, of which they had been long deprived. The
afternoon I spent partly in preparation for the morrow, and partly in
getting accounts of the state and people of Pictou. The first settlers
of Pictou were about a dozen families from Maryland, in the year 1765.
In 1773, came the ship Hector, loaded with Highlanders from Lochbroom,
sent out by the Philadelphia Company, to settle a large grant of theirs
in Pictou. But many of them left Pictou for Truro, Onslow, and
Londonderry, townships in Colchester; for the families who had been in
Pictou before could not afford winter provision for a third part of them
; but they almost all returned after some years. Many of these settlers
suffered incredible hardships in bringing provisions from Colchester,
without roads, horses, or money, but earning them by hard labour. One or
two years afterwards there arrived about fifteen families, emigrants
from Dumfriesshire to St. John, now Prince Edward Island, who had been
almost starved to death there, and gladly exchanged total want for the
scanty allowance of Pictou. In the fall of 1783, and spring of 1784,
came about twenty families of soldiers, mostly Highlanders, who had been
disbanded after the peace with the United States in 1783, and some of
their officers having half-pay. The same summer brought eight families
of Highlanders by the way of Halifax. There were a few of the families
Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, &c.; but they were mostly Scotchmen and
Presbyterians. They were settled round the shores of the harbour, and on
the sides of the rivers, except two families on the East River, and one
on the West, who chose to go two miles for the sake of better land, Such
was the account I had from Squire Patterson of the first settlement of
Pictou. His own house was rather the best in Pictou, and the only framed
one. There were only seven or eight log houses in the whole settlement
that had two fireplaces.
“The squire gave orders
to lay slabs and planks in his barn for seats to the congregation; and
before eleven o’clock nest morning I saw the people gathering to hear
the gospel from the lips of a stranger, and a stranger who felt few of
its consolations in his own soul, and had but little hope of
communicating them to his hearers. None came by land, except certain
families who lived a few miles to the right and left of Squire
Patterson’s. Those who came from the south side of the harbour, and from
the rivers, had to come in boats or canoes; and I doubt not but all the
craft in Pictou available at the time was in requisition. It was truly a
novel sight to me, to see so many boats and canoes carrying people to
sermon. There were only five or six boats, but many canoes, containing
from one to seven or eight persons. The congregation, however, was not
large; for numbers could not get ready their craft, the notice was so
short. I observed that the conduct of some of them, coming from the
shore to the barn, was as if they had never heard of a Sabbath. I heard
loud talking and laughing, and singing and whistling, even before they
reached the shore. They behaved, however, with decency so long as I
continued to speak, and some of them were evidently much affected. I
endeavoured to explain to them in the forenoon, in English, ‘This is a
faithful saying, and worthy of all acceptation, that Christ Jesus came
into the world to save sinners;’ and in the afternoon, in Gaelic, ‘ The
Son of Man is come to seek and to save that which was lost.’ I had been
afraid of the want of proper precentors, especially for the Gaelic, as I
knew in Scotland that readers were scarce in the North Highlands; but I
was happily disappointed, for William Smith did very well in English,
and Thomas Eraser in Gaelic. The first words which I heard after
pronouncing the blessing, were from a gentleman of the army calling to
his companions, Come, come, let us go to the grogshop; but instead of
going with him, they came toward me, to bid me welcome to the
settlement; and he came himself at last. I could not be displeased with
their politeness; still there was no savour of piety in their talk.
There were a number of pious persons there, who would gladly have spoken
to me; but, as they told me afterwards, they had not the courage to show
themselves iu such company; by which means I had a worse opinion of the
place than it deserved. The gentlemen stayed some time; and while they
did, we had little else among us but profanation of the Sabbath. Perhaps
I was too timid myself; for all that I did to repress this profanation
was some faint attempts to turn the talk into a more profitable channel.
It soon turned back. When they were gone, Squire Patterson’s family
offered no hindrance to religious conversation.”
It may be remarked
here, as we shall have occasion to notice more particularly hereafter,
that he had a remarkable talent for directing conversation into
religious channels. In company, whatever subject was started, he almost
instantly gave a religious turn to it, and that so naturally, as not
only to give no offence to any, but to attract the attention of the
thoughtless to the subject. This seldom failed to render his social
intercourse the means of spiritual profit. To this source many owe their
first impressions of divine things.
At this point in the
original MS., the following words occur inserted at a later period:
“Mrs. MacMillan converted,” as if he intended to mention some incident
connected with her being brought to the knowledge of the truth. We may
therefore give such information concerning her as we have been able to
collect. Her mother had been a Roman Catholic, and if she had any
religious opinion she was the same. She was not, however, very bigoted,
for before Dr. MacGregor’s arrival she attended Robert Marshall’s
“readings.” What was the reason of the introduction of her name at this
stage of the narrative, we know not, but think it probable that an
impression was made upon her mind by his first sermon. A visit which he
paid to her shortly after is traditionally mentioned as a chief cause of
her conversion. She lived at the Narrows of the East river, and on his
way up he called at her house. As he went in, the cat having misbehaved,
he heard her giving utterance to some reprehensible language. He said
nothing about it at first, but in a little turned the conversation to
the subject, and mildly reproved her, saying that he would not have
spoken in that way. Other conversations followed in which he completely
won her affection, so that she never after had any thing to do with the
Priests. She early became a member of the church, and was remarkable for
her attachment to him, and for following his preaching to great
distances. She could neither read nor write, but learned many of the
Psalms in the Metrical version, as well as many chapters of the Bible,
and the Shorter Catechism. Her descendants are numerous and respectable;
a great-grandson being at present a member of the Provincial Assembly
for the County of Pictou. Appended to one of his Gaelic MS. we have
found the following curious documents:
“I request all my
children, and my children’s children to join together and aid one
another in paying the expenses of printing Poems, if Providcnee provides
an opportunity for so doing.”
James MacGregor,
"M M. Mary MacMillan
Her mark.
When she died, she left
all her little property to the British and Foreign Bible Society.
As we have given his
impressions of Pictou when he first arrived, we may give the impressions
formed in Pictou regarding him. Probably from being down east at the
dreary appearance of the place and the prospects before him, he did not
at first impress them very favourably. They at first thought him dull,
if not stupid. William Smith, already referred to, said to one of his
neighbours, “I fear we have been disappointed in our minister; I don’t
think that he will do much good/' The first sermon he preached
materially altered his opinion, and his first remark on coming out to
the same individual was, “Ah, he is better than I thought; I think he
will do jet.” On this first Sabbath’s preaching some of the disbanded
who attended, stood at some distance, and did not even take off their
hats till towards the close of the sermon, when they drew near, and
uncovered their heads.
“By Squire Patterson’s
direction I gave out sermon next Sabbath on the East River, at the head
of the tide, and the second Sabbath on the harbour, a few miles up from
Squire Patterson’s; and the sermon continued alternately at these places
for about two months, when the people agreed to have two
meeting-houses—one on the west side of the East River, half a mile below
the head of the tide, to accommodate boats; and the other on the east
side of the West River, two miles below the head of the tide—alternate
preaching to be at these places till winter, when a winter regulation
should be made. These two places were ten or eleven miles apart, and
there was no road to either.
“Towards the beginning
of the week I went up the East River, to get acquainted with the people,
and be near the place of preaching next Sabbath. Except two families,
the whole population of the East River was from the Highlands. But few
of them, or of those in other parts of Pictou, could read a word.
Several people applied to me for baptism next Sabbath. I was in great
difficulty with some of them, and not 9* then only, but often
afterwards; and doubtless often erred, not knowing what to do with them,
especially for their ignorance. To those whom I thought quite unfit, I
advised delay for some time till they got more knowledge, and to come
again and converse on the subject; telling them that it was far safer
for them to wait till they were fit for it, than to receive it without
the blessing of God. One of these thought fit to stand up in the
congregation next Sabbath, and say, in a loud and angry voice, that I
was good for nothing, and did not deserve the name of a minister, and
that he would never pay me a shilling, as I refused to baptize his
child. Some of those near him endeavoured to still him, but in vain,
till he got out his blast. I was sorry to hear him, but said nothing.
Some of the neighbours, in the course of the week, made him believe that
he was liable to a heavy fine, and frightened him greatly; so that, lest
I should take the law to him, he came and acknowledged his great pride
and folly, and begged me to pardon him. I told him I had no thought of
taking the law, and advised him to consider how he could escape the
anger of God for such behaviour; that God’s grace never produced such
conduct as his, and that he needed to ask God’s pardon for offending
him, and troubling his people, and exposing himself.”
In connection with this
we may mention an occurrence that took place at this point, which was to
him a severe trial. On the very first Sabbath after his arrival, two of
the gentlemen of the army applied to him for baptism for their children.
He demurred, not knowing the character of the men. They asserted their
good character and appealed in corroboration of their testimony to John
Fraser, who had been a captain in the Regiment, and who was now a
magistrate. He corroborated their testimony. The Doctor yielded and
baptized their children. During the week, however, lie discovered that
both the men had left wives in the old country, and that their children
were the result of adulterous connection formed with other women here.
Though he was innocent in what he had done, yet his tender conscience
upbraided him as having profaned a holy ordinance. This and the deceit
practised upon him by one in the highest station, added to the dreary
circumstances of his position, so impressed his mind that one of my
informants says, that he has seen him actually in tears about the
matter. lie spoke of it long after with deep sorrow. Among the
applicants for the same privilege during the week following was Colin
Douglass. The Doctor replied, “I do not know what to do, I have done a
thing last Sabbath, that I will regret all my days.” Mr. D. referred him
to the different character of the other settlers and afforded such
satisfactory evidence of his character, that the Doctor gave him the
privilege sought.
“Ever since I accepted
the Synod’s appointment, I had been concerned lest I should find no
elders in Pictou, and thus not have a regular session. It was,
therefore, a great happiness to me, that I now heard of three on the
East River, who had been ordained in Scotland, viz., Thomas Fraser, and
Simon Fraser, who had officiated in the parish of Kirkhill with my late
respected and dear friend, the Rev. Alexander Fraser; and Alexander
Fraser, alias MacAndrew, from Kilmorack. It was an addition to this
happiness, that, in obtaining acquaintance with them, I found them
possessed of considerable knowledge, and pleasing appearances of piety.
I was now relieved from my fears about a regular session ; as nothing
else was necessary to the exercise of their office here but the call of
the congregation; which I hoped would be obtained in due time, if God
prospered my labours”
While we honour his
scrupulous conscientiousness in regard to the order of Christ’s house,
we do not think that there was reason for his difficulty. Whatever may
be proper, where the church has been already established, we hold that
as the apostles "ordained Elders in every city" where of course there
could not have been already a constituted Eldership, and as Titus was
commissioned in Crete, to “set in order the things that are wanting and
ordain Elders in every city,” so one regularly commissioned as an
Evangelist had all the authority requisite for the ordination of Elders.
Of these elders, Alexander Fraser was an old man, and lived but a short
time. Simon Fraser also did not long survive, but Thomas Fraser was one
of his closest companions and firmest supports almost till his death.
“Next Sabbath I went by
water from the East River to the place mentioned above, to preach. The
boat was crowded with people, and notwithstanding all that I could do to
restrain them, their tongues walked through the earth; at least the
restraint continued but a short time, when some one would forget and
break through. But when we drew near to the place of preaching, to which
all the boats and canoes were pointing, the scene described before was
completely renewed. Their singing and whistling, and laughing and
bawling, filled my mind with amazement and perplexity. I took occasion
to warn them of the sin and danger of such conduct, and exhorted them to
consider by whose authority they were required to 1 remember the
Sabbath-day to keep it holy.’ My warning and exhortation were not
altogether thrown away; but there was not much reformation, till the
gentlemen belonging to the army favoured us with their absence, which
they did when sailing ceased to be a pleasure, by the coolness of the
weather. As they were the main cause of the evil, when they retired,
those who had been excited by them were easily restrained. On the return
of summer there was a visible alteration for the better. In the
meantime, however, I often thought that my sermons did more harm by
occasioning profanation of the Sabbath, than good by communicating
instruction.”
The place where the
third Sabbath’s preaching took place was at the lower end of the Middle
River at Mr. Alexander Fraser’s, near where Mr. Samuel Fraser’s house
now stands. This was the site first chosen for a church, which it was
supposed would accommodate all sections of the congregation. This idea
was soon abandoned, and two churches were erected. It may be mentioned
that in the partial intercourse he had had with the people during these
two weeks, he had already won the hearts of many. Even children had
become attached to him. The following, simple as it is, will show this,
as well as illustrate the kindness of his manner. On his way back from
Truro in company with Thomas Fraser, the elder, at the lower part of the
Middle River he met four boys. lie asked Fraser, “What boys are these?”
“Oh, they are some of your congregation, and bad boys they are,” was the
reply. “ , that’s because they have had no minister to teach them, but
they will do better after this.” He then spoke to them, asking each his
name, and enquiring regarding their respective families, and telling
them to come and hear him preach next Sabbath, and pay attention to what
he said, and he was sure that they would hereafter be good boys. He
talked in this kind way to them till he completely won their hearts, and
they were all eagerness to hear him preach. The preaching took place
under the shade of a large elm-tree, and they listened with intense
interest, lie at that time gained a place in their affections which he
never lost. One of these boys, who related the circumstance, was John
Douglass, so well known through the church as Deacon Douglass.
“As I had not yet seen
the Middle River, I took an opportunity of visiting it this week. It is
the smallest of the rivers, and had only eleven families on it—four of
them emigrants from Dumfries, the rest Highlanders. Here I became
acquainted with Robert Marshall, a man worthy of being had in
everlasting remembrance. He and his family suffered every thing but
death in Prince Edward Island, by hunger and nakedness; for though they
had plenty of clothes of all kinds when they came there, he had to part
with every article of them that could possibly be spared for provision.
Soon after he came to Pictou, he lost a most amiable consort, and for
some time had a great struggle to bring up his family; but lie was
filled with the joy and peace of believing, and abounded in hope, not
only of everlasting happiness, but of hearing the joyful sound of the
gospel in Pictou. He was afterwards an elder, and a great comfort to me;
but for many a day he had to go to hear sermon in an old red coat which
an old soldier had given him, and a weaver’s apron, to hide the holes
and rags of his trousers. He had, I believe, the poorest hut in Pictou;
but many a happy night did I enjoy in it. Robert Marshall was eminent
for honesty and plainness, for charity, liberality of sentiments, and
public spirit. He was very useful to the young generation, teaching, and
warning, and directing them ; and he would reprove the greatest man in
the province as readily a.s the least, for any plain violation of the
law, as profane swearing, or travelling on the Sabbath. In time he got
over his poverty; but he had his trials as well as his comforts all his
days.
“It was not till the
nest time I visited the Middle River that I became acquainted with
Kenneth Fraser, an amiable Christian, whom I never met without a smile
on his countenance. At home he had been under the ministry of the Rev.
Thomas MacKay, in Lairg, Sutherlandshire. He remembered so many savoury
notes of Mr. MacKay’s sermons, that I could not but have a high opinion
of the character of both.
“It was no little
discouragement to me that I scarcely saw any books among the people.
Those who spoke English had, indeed, a few, which they had brought with
them from their former abodes, but scarcely one of them had got any
addition to his stock since. Almost all of them had a Bible; and it was
to be seen with some of the Highlanders who could not read. There was no
school in the place. Squire Patterson had built a small house, and hired
a teacher for a few months, now and then, for his own children. In three
or perhaps four other places, three or four of the nearest neighbours
had united and hired a teacher for a few months at different times; and
this was a great exertion. What was more discouraging, I could not see a
situation in Pictou where a school could be maintained for a year, so
thin and scattered was the population. Besides, many of the Highlanders
were perfectly indifferent about education, for neither themselves nor
any of their ancestors had ever tasted its pleasure or its profit. But
afterwards
I found that children
made quicker progress in the small and temporary schools with which the
people were obliged to content themselves, than they did at home in
their large and stationary schools : and I found it easier than I had
thought to rouse the Highlanders to attend to the education of their
children, so far as to read the Bible. I made it a rule to inculcate
this duty upon parents when speaking to them about baptism. There are
now sixty schools iu Pictou district; but in almost all of them the plan
continues of hiring a man by the year or half-year.”
We may add here some
notes, which we have deciphered from his short-hand MS., of an address
delivered by himself some years after, in which he describes the state
of Pietou on his arrival, and its condition subsequently.
“1. In Pictou not a
loaf could be afforded of our own wheat. There was no mill to grind, now
we have plenty of mills, and plenty of loaves. We had an imitation flour
by the hand-mill, but of oat-mills we had not a semblance, but now we
have oat-mills and oatmeal so good, it should not be to come from
Scotland.
“2. There was not a
foot of road in the district, and for carriage, neither sleighs nor
gigs. The chief of the travel was by canoes, or along the shore when the
tide was out, and most disagreeable it often was, especially in crossing
brooks and guts, where we had often to go afoot, but in very soft
ground. There was a path from the West to the Middle River, and from the
Middle River to the East, but no path from any of the rivers to the
harbour. See the difference now. We have roads that princes might be
proud of. We had not a dozen of horses.
“3. There was not a
merchant in the district, nor any who commonly kept goods for sale, or
made the third of his living by the sale of goods. Little schooners came
round in the summer with some necessary articles, to which the people
repaired in their canoes, and got a few things for which they exchanged
a little produce. Sometimes John Patterson got a few pounds worth more
than he needed, and afterward sold them. But see what stores we have
now. None among us can tell their number, and some of them would make a
decent appearance in any town whatsoever. We had scarcely any tradesmen
of any kind. We had weavers, and tailors, but I would not see a chaise
for a wonder.
“4. In this town there
was not a single house for years after I came here. The town was some
years without a single inhabitant, then there was a shed with one
family, then another with it, and so on till it became what we see it
now. Not a man in Pictou would believe that ever we should see a room
like this in which we are now assembled. Now Pictou deserves the name of
a town. It is fast increasing, and some of the houses deserve the name
of palaces when compared with what we possessed then.
“5. There was no
school, now we have scores of them. Now we have a Seminary of education,
superior to some of the American colleges. There was no minister, now we
have eleven of them. As for lawyers there was such good neighbourhood
amongst us, that we never expected to need a lawyer or a court-house,
but we have now gotten much use for both. We have also a printing press.
“6. As for our
population, Pictou did not then contain five hundred souls. If
Merigomish be included, I suppose they would amount to a few more souls
than five hundred, now they amount to twenty-five times the number
then.”
An individual who
arrived in Pictou in the year following, and traversed the eastern part
of Nova Scotia, thus describes the state of matters then: “In 17S7 there
were only four or five horses from Salmon River to Antigonish. There was
not one inhabitant on the Cape Breton side of the Gut of Canso, and but
one on the Nova Scotia side. In 1788 there was one house at Ship Harbour.
I may add that from Pictou to Coeaigne, there were but four or five
families at River John, and Mr. Waugh and his family at Tatamagouche,
some refugees at Wallace, and but one family at Bay Verte. At Miramiehi
there were but five families.”
The overseer was James
MacDonald, afterward an elder, and long one of his most intimate
companions and steadfast supporters, who died in the year 1857 at the
age of over 100 years. He used to tell that he was the first man to
welcome Dr. MacGregor to Pictou. When fur in his dotage, describing the
scene to us, when the Doctor came forward, and told them that he was the
minister fur Pictou. he said, “Wasn’t we rejoiced?” The opening of the
road at this time, however, was only cutting down the trees along a
narrow avenue, just wide enough for the passage of a single traveller.
The stumps were not removed, neither was the ground levelled.
This incident, trivial
as it may appear, illustrates one feature of the character of the
inhabitants of Nova Scotia, and probably of all new countries, compared
with those of older ones. In the latter, a person would consider himself
as doing a favour to a body of labourers, or any poor people, by giving
them the remains of his feast; but where the necessaries of life arc so
abundant as in Nova Scotia, there is no class of the community to whom
the offering of such would not be apt to be considered somewhat in the
light of an insult, in the same way as it was by these Highlanders. |