“In journeyings often.”
2 Cor. xi. 26.
As we have now entered
upon his missionary journeys, which occupied so large a portion of his
attention from this time forward, it may be as well to give some general
account of the state of travelling at that time, and of his general mode
of procedure on such excursions. The following amusing account of the
state of travelling in the early settlement of the country first
appeared in the Recorder for 1827.
"Mr. H., the
improvement of our roads and bridges is one of the best, if not the very
best, which our Legislature has ever effected. The contrast is great
indeed between the state of the roads now, and at the beginning of this
century, twenty-six years ago. Many a story have I heard from my father,
Basil Wisewood, of the disasters which befell travellers in his time,
when there was only one road in the Province deserving the name, viz.,
that from Halifax to Windsor, and Annapolis. And with wonder I have
heard him tell, that the road cost as much as would pave it all over
with dollars. The people of the best settlements found their way to this
road or to one another by a blaze, that is, a mark made on the trunk of
a tree here and there, in the proper course, for the purpose of
directing travellers; but in the younger settlements, travellers had to
provide pocket compasses, and guessing their course, find their way
through the forest much in the same way as sailors do along the sea. By
the by, Mr. H., pocket compasses formed in those days a considerable
article of our infant commerce, though it is now ousted, and almost
forgotten.
“In going by the
compass the traveller sometimes, widely mistaking bis course, missed
entirely the intended settlement, and came in upon another, or missed
all settlements, and travelled on, till he lost all hope of seeing a
house, in which case he often believed the compass itself went wrong;
and discrediting it, he would wander he knew not whither. Sometimes the
traveller would be confounded desperately, for the compass needle would
obstinately refuse to traverse, and he could not know East from West,
North from South. I cannot recollect his description of its wonderful
vibrations and whirling, to the no small terror and amazement of the
traveller.
“Travelling by a blaze
was little better. lie told us strange things of losing the blaze, and
the impossibility of finding it again, of striking out a straightforward
course, independent of the blaze, and yet, by and by, coming upon their
own track again,—of the snow being so driven against the trees as to
hide the blaze, and causing frequent stops to rub it off,—of its being
so deep as to cover the blaze, and causing frequent stops to dig away
the snow in order to discover it—of travellers being benighted by such
stops, and lodging in the forest where they bad to kindle large fires on
the top of the snow, four or sis feet deep, and there (dismal to be
told!) one side next the fire was roasted, and the other frozen. I have
heard him tell of experienced travellers, who in such a case would
kindle two fires, at a proper distance from one another, and lie down
between them, and enjoy themselves luxuriously between two fires. In
those days swamps were avoided as intolerable. The steep mountain sides
were preferable, and hence there are still many hills on our roads which
might now be easily avoided.
“I have heard him tell
of great dangers and hairbreadth escapes from drowning in crossing
brooks and rivers swollen with unexpected rains; for in those days no
journey would be undertaken immediately after a heavy rain. He had
himself to wait different times for two or three days nearly fasting
until the subsiding of the water rendered the river passable. He told of
horses swagging in swamps almost to their ears, and of the great
difficulty of their riders. There were few taverns, but every man who
had a hut was hospitable.”
As we have given his
account of travelling in the early state of the country, we may give his
remarks upon the condition of the roads at the time be wrote:
“Such were the
difficulties of travelling in this Province within these forty years.
How great and how happy is the change now! Hills are levelled and
valleys are filled up; the crooked places are made straight, and the
rough places plain. A duke in bis coach and six may ride in safety from
end to end of the Province. This is saying much, but truth demands it. A
busy body, however, can still see many faults, and much need of
improvements. The best of our roads need to be made better, and much
more the worst, and many new ones are needed. They are in general
woefully soft in the spring and full, crying out for gravel or MacAdam.
The bridges too are sadly mismanaged, being made of green timber, which
cannot last. Were the timber seasoned for a year before it is used, how
much firmer and more durable would the bridges be!”
His picture of the
courses of the roads will be recognized as true, by many still living.
“It was not practicable
at first to lay off the proper courses of these great roads, for they
were imperfectly known, and the different settlements being connected
together by such blazes and footpaths, as suited themselves. It was best
at first to make improvements on these paths, so that travelling might
be safe. But it is time now to look to the interests of the whole
—especially of the extremes, who will have long journeys to the
metropolis, however straight the roads be made. To every alteration of
any consequence, opposition will be made. Every village, every man of
selfish views, every tavern keeper, every miller, and every blacksmith,
will be loth to see it taken farther from them. But the convenience of
individuals or villages are not to be compared with the accommodation of
the public. There are at present many deviations from this rule; but the
greatest I recollect is in the north road to the east, in its course
through that famous flourishing place, Pictou. Travelling some time aero
towards the east end of the Province, when I reached the brow of Mount
Thom, where the North coast, and the Eastern country arc first seen, I
stopped to view the scene. Bight before me I saw Pictou Harbour and the
ocean, and I think the skirts of the town. To the East and South, the
land extended further than my sight could carry. I saw instantly that
hereabouts the road to Merigomish and the East should part from the
Pictou road, and point toward the head of Mcrigomisli harbour; but I had
to follow the Pictou road, eight or ten miles farther to Blanchards.
There I parted with it by a great angle, crossed the West Biver, and
after some time ascended a mountain long and steep, more so I believe
than any other in the Province. When I passed the steep and reached the
clear land a little higher, I had a fine prospect to the South and East;
and on my right hand, I saw a long level tract through which the road
might have come, so as to escape the hill and be much shorter. Then I
began a long descent, squinting down the stream till I came to the mill,
where I crossed the Middle River on a good bridge; and immediately
turned up the river on the road by which the Middle River people go to
Halifax by Upper Stewiacke, so that here I was travelling nearly back
about a mile. I then turned to the East River and crossed it, but
instead of keeping right on to the bead of Merigomish harbour, I had to
go two miles down the river to New Glasgow, on the road which leads to
Pictou, where, had I kept it eight miles farther, I would have met the
road which I left at Blanchards so far behind. I turned off at New
Glasgow, and begun to ascend another mountain for about two miles, and
when I reached its top, I saw on my right hand another long level tract,
where the road would have been much shorter, and escaped the mountain
wholly. Descending thence by a long and gradual slope, I found upon
enquiry that the course of the road led into Merigomish harbour, two or
three miles below its head. Therefore it turned again to the right, and
at last gained the desired point, the head of Merigomish harbour.
“Pausing here, I could
not but smile at the sagacity of Pictou people as road makers, and pity
those who have to travel so many needless miles. Many a shilling must
they leave in the Pictou taverns, and many a cold blast must they endure
along its mountains, which aright direction of the road would save-.”
Reverting, however, to
the state of travelling at the commencement of his career, we observe
that as remarked above be often travelled long distances, where there
was no road at all, and where he and his fellow-travellers were obliged
to shape their course by a pocket compass, and this through the forest.
In these cases, of course, the travelling was all on foot. This involved
great toil. The forests of Nova Seotia do not present the appearance
which we have seen in some other parts of America, where the trees are
far apart, and the ground so level that a carriage might be driven
between them. But the trees generally are close together, with a
considerable undergrowth of small bushes. From the thinness of the soil
in many places, they abound in windfalls. The roots of these carry up
the soil, which again falls and forms little hillocks known in this
country as cradle hills. The difficulty of passing through a forest of
this kind was increased by the irregular surface of the country. Almost
every part of the Province is traversed by hills, the sides of which are
sometimes steep—deep ravines intersect the path of the traveller,—while
the valleys present much ground that is low and boggy, and thus wet at
all seasons of the year. But from the amount of snow falling, and the
slowness with which it melted, even the very driest were scarcely dry
even at midsummer. Under these circumstances, the traveller was obliged
to brush through a thick undergrowth of bushes, sometimes to climb over
or creep under a windfall, and again to spring from one root to another
over boggy spots. At one time lie was obliged to toil up a steep ascent,
at another to cross a brook by a single fallen tree, on which it
required the whole skill of a rope daneer to preserve his equilibrium,
and which was not always successful in preventing his having a thorough
wetting in it, while again he might be seen clambering up its banks, by
laying hold of the bushes with which it was lined. In this work Doctor
MacGregor, in the days of his strength, was remarkably active, rivalling
those born in the forest. As one of my informants said, he never saw any
person from the old country so smart in going through the woods.
We may remark here,
that while the forest added to his toils, his natural sense of beauty
was often charmed, and his admiration for the glories of nature excited
by its magnificence and grandeur. Woods still cover a great part of Nova
Scotia, but along any of the lines of travel, there is now to be seen
only comparatively small trees, and these commonly second growth. All
the woods fit for timber, except in remote districts, has been taken to
market; but then the forest was the undisturbed growth of ages. Trees
then met his view, which must have been standing when Columbus embarked
on his first voyage for the Western world. These appeared in the most
promiscuous style. “Many varieties,” says MacGregor, “of the pine,
intermingled with birch, maple, beech, oak, and numerous other tribes,
branch luxuriantly over the banks of lakes and rivers, extend in stately
grandeur along the plains, and stretch proudly up to the very summits of
the mountain. It is impossible to exaggerate the autumnal beauty of
these forests; nothing under heaven can be compared to its effulgent
grandeur. Two or three frosty nights, in the decline of autumn,
transform the boundless verdure of a whole empire into every possible
tint of brilliant scarlet, rich violet, every shade of blue and brown,
vivid crimson, and glittering yellow. The stern, inexorable fir tribes
alone maintain their eternal sombre green. All others in mountains or in
valleys burst into the most glorious vegetable beauty, and exhibit the
most splendid and most enchanting panorama on earth.”
As he passed through
the forest in its original grandeur he often felt awed as if passing
amid the stately pillars of the temple of nature.
“This is the forest
primeval.
The murmuring pines and the hillocks,
Bearded with moss, and in garments indistinct in the twilight,
Stand little Druids of old, with voices sad and prophetic,
Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosom.
Loud from its rocky caverns the deep voiced neighbouring ocean
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest.”
When emerging into some
open space he beheld the forest stretching before him over hill and
valley, in the various shades of green and summer luxuriance, or in the
richer glories of autumn, he would stop to gaze and call the attention
of his companions to the scene, who, however, saw in the forest only an
impediment to their industry, and a hindrance to the progress of the
country, and knew no duty with regard to it, but to remove it from the
surface of the earth as speedily as possible.
The danger of losing
the course, while traversing the forest, is more common than most
persons would imagine; and what is singular, a person losing his way is
most likely to come back upon his own track, or to the very spot from
which he set out. To obviate this danger the first step in the march of
improvement was to blaze, as it was termed, the course between different
places. This consisted merely in taking a chip off each side of trees at
short distances apart along the line of travel. By taking a chip off
each side the person going in either direction has something to guide
him. Looking forward he sees before him the tree from which a chip has
been taken, and making his way to it, by a glance ahead sees the next
tree that is blazed, and so onward. By habit a quickness is acquired in
discovering the course, which in ordinary circumstances enables a person
to proceed with considerable ease and rapidity. But in other cases,
there are considerable difficulties, which he has amusingly sketched in
the extract given above.
The next step was to
make a road, as it was called. This, however, consisted merely in
cutting out the trees on the line of travel, sufficiently to form a sort
of bridle path. The stumps wore not removed, nor was the ground levelled
or thrown up. This, however, enabled the traveller to proceed on
horseback. This was so much gained, but if any modern thinks, that this
scoured more rapid locomotion, he only betrays his ignorance of the
subject. A good walker would not only keep up with a traveller on
horseback, but often get ahead of him. The ground was generally soft,
and sometimes so deep, that the horse could scarcely carry his rider;
and from a peculiar instinct of the species, one horse would always
place his foot in the track made by his predecessor, so that the road,
so called, got into deep holes, in regular order where each stepped. In
the course of a year or two the young trees began to grow up— the stumps
that had been left in the ground began to send up sprouts, and the
branches of the trees alongside the road, began, in utter disregard of
all laws regarding His Majesty’s Highway, to extend across the path
prepared for his lieges. So that the traveller was in danger, either of
being brushed from his saddle, or, at all events, of being rudely
scratched by the branches, unless he was expert enough to parry them off
as he advanced, which if there had been any rain just previous, would be
sure to afford him the benefits of a shower bath. So thick would they
grow, that travellers approaching from opposite directions, would
sometimes not perceive one another until they were just in contact.
In winter, travelling
became attended with some additional difficulties. The snow fell in the
forests to the depth of three or four feet, and we have beard well
authenticated instances, where towards spring it was measured and found
to be actually over six and even seven feet deep. Of course travelling
with horses was then out of the question. And the only mode of
travelling was by snow shoes. As remarked by Mr. Clarke, of Amherst,
“the untrodden snow bank was his railroad—the snow shoe the only car
upon which he was mounted,—while of his earthly house, the collar beam
bore along his entire baggage.”
The use of snow shoes
was adopted by the early settlers from the Indians. They consisted of a
wooden frame of an oval shape, but with the ends elongated to a point,
about two feet long and about one wide. Across this leathern thongs were
stretched at equal distances, and others again crossed at right angles,
interlacing them so as to form a network. In this way such a broad
surface is presented under the feet, that a traveller can easily pass
over snow of ordinary firmness without sinking. But this mode of
travelling was at times very laborious. When the snow was very soft, the
snow shoes sank in it and became clogged, or when it was very hard, they
were apt to slide. But the chief difficulty was for strangers to become
accustomed to their use. Such persons are sure to trip themselves every
few steps, and to roll helplessly in the snow. To travel with ease upon
them requires a peculiar tact, which is only acquired by practice, and
some never become expert at this mode of travelling. It is necessary to
walk with the feet wide apart, otherwise the snow shoes strike one
another, and trip the unfortunate pedestrian; and each foot must be
lifted up in a peculiar manner, with the toes as high as the heel, or
the whole foot together, otherwise the forward point will catch in the
snow, with the same result. But when expertness is acquired, it becomes
an easy mode of communication. Old persons have assured me that in their
youth they would travel a long distance in that way, with greater ease
to themselves, if the snow were suitable, than they could the same
distance on the best road they ever saw.
Doctor MacGregor, of
course, had his difficulty in acquiring expertness in a mode of
conveyance so entirely new to him, but being active on his feet he after
a time became quite expert at it. The Indians to whom he had been very
kind, and of whose skill in guiding their way through the intricacies of
the forest he sometimes gladly availed himself, made him a present of a
pair, nicely ornamented, which he retained all his days. As the hard
leathern soles of his boots cut the thongs of the snow shoes, it was
necessary to use moccasins. These were made of green hide taken from the
lower legs of the os, or more commonly of the moose. These last they
purchased from the Indians, who had a way of making them soft and
pliable by rubbing them between their hands. Let not my lady readers be
shocked at the idea of our writing the biography of a man, whose nether
extremities were encased in “shanks,” as they were termed, or moccasins
of untanned hide. We are describing not a modern, refined, kid-gloved
man-milliner of a preacher. We are describing a veritable man of labour,
and one who bent himself to his work in the true spirit of endurance.
Behold him then equipped for his journey. His boots are taken off and
deposited in his knapsack, which was generally carried by one of his
companions, his feet are encased in the afore described moccasins, over
his legs are drawn what were called “Indian leggins,” a sort of overall
made of blue cloth, with a red stripe down each side, and fitting
closely about the feet and strapped down, while the faithful racket
(snow shoes) that is to bear him safely onward, is fastened to his feet
by leathern thongs round the ancles; and whether you count him fit for
your drawing-rooms or not, he is fully equipped to go on his errand of
mercy to seek out the solitary dweller in the wood, and to gather the
lost sheep of the desert into the Redeemer’s fold.
These journeys were not
without danger, as he experienced. Travellers often became benighted,
and though they might be provided for encamping in the woods, yet at
other times they lost their way and, becoming exhausted, were unable to
kindle a fire in those days when lucifer matches were among the
undiscovered wonders of the Nineteenth Century, or running short of food
were unable to reach their intended destination, and perished. That this
was no imaginary danger will appear from the subsequent history, but
especially from the following entry in Halliburton’s history, for the
year 1795: “The Rev. Mr. Lloyd, Missionary at Chester, loses his way in
a snow storm, while on his route through the woods to Windsor, and is
frozen to death.”
In summer the easiest
way of travelling was along shore, or along the edges of rivers. But
this had its difficulties. The shore was often encumbered with drift
wood, or piled up with stones, which, however interesting to a
geologist, were very awkward for the pedestrian. In some places the tide
rose so high that it was necessary to clamber up steep banks to get
along. At other places the ground was soft and boggy, particularly at
small creeks, which often rendered it necessary to make a long circuit
to go round the head of them, and greatly increased the distance
travelled.
But oftentimes these
waters must be crossed, which was frequently a work of considerable
difficulty. His narrative affords examples of the principal modes by
which it was accomplished. The smaller rivers could commonly be forded
on horseback, but pedestrians sometimes adopted the somewhat school-boy
mode of walking on stilts, which were kindly provided, pro bono publico,
by good Samaritans, and left at the banks of the stream for the
convenience of travellers. But soon bridges were constructed of rough
logs, on which travellers were sometimes in as great danger as when
there were none. The broader and deeper streams required to be crossed
in canoes, sometimes the birch bark canoe of the Micmac Indian being
employed, at other times the kind more commonly used by the whites,
which consisted of a single tree hollowed out.
It may seem an attempt
to impose upon the credulity of our readers, but we have heard of
persons crossing creeks of some width on cakes of ice. A minister of our
church, still living, can tell of such an adventure. Travelling early in
the spring, he and his companions came to a creek, which he saw no means
of crossing. The ice having been broken up, several cakes were lying
along the shore. His companions launched one of these cakes, and got
upon it, having first cut two poles as means of propulsion. They called
upon him to join them, which he did, only after a good deal of
persuasion, when they commenced “poling,” as it is termed, their frail
bark across the watery element, and safely reached the other side. We
have not heard an instance in which Dr. MacGregor crossed a stream in
this manner, but it is more than likely that he did so, and at all
events the incident shows the sort of shifts to which it was then
necessary to resort.
Besides the crossing of
rivers and creeks, a work of still more danger was the crossing the sea
in his voyages to Prince Edward Island, Cape Breton, and New Brunswick.
There was then no steamer to carry the traveller with regularity and
despatch. In his later years, sailing packets plied between Nova Scotia
and Prince Edward Island, but in his early career, it was only
occasionally that he could obtain even a sailing vessel to transport him
across; while very commonly he made these voyages of forty, sixty, or it
might be a hundred miles in open boats, some of them being large
half-decked boats built expressly for such voyages. Like his Master
crossing the sea of Galilee, his only accommodation was the humble
fishing boat, in which darkness and peril must alike be encountered.
On one occasion coming
either from Prince Edward Island, or Miramichi in a schooner, he was
overtaken by a violent storm, so that even the crew felt a little
alarmed. They were at sea over Sabbath, and the storm having somewhat
abated, he read to them the 107th Psalm, and preached on our Saviour
stilling the storm.
The only other
circumstance regarding the physical state of travelling which we deem it
necessary to notice, is the poor accommodation to which he was obliged
to submit. A hearty welcome he was almost certain to receive, but his
fare was often of the humblest kind, while a hard couch, the scanty
covering of which ill-protected him from the cold, was his only bed. In
fact such privations as we have already described as endured in Pictou,
he suffered when travelling abroad, with this difference however, that
at home his visiting was principally iu winter, while his travelling
abroad was generally in summer. But whatever privations were in his way
he cheerfully endured. Not only so, but we have heard of his purposely
staying with poor people, when he might have had better accommodation
elsewhere. On one occasion a man having travelled with him from Bedceue
to Lot Sixteen, Prince Edward Island, the Doctor lodged in his house,
although the man had to borrow a loaf and candle from one of his
neighbours. This he did, though the man scarcely asked it, and though he
might have been comfortably provided for elsewhere; because he knew it
would be a gratification to the poor man.
On these journeys he
acted almost literally on the divine injunction, certainly in the spirit
of it, “Provide neither gold, nor silver, nor brass, in your purses, nor
scrip for your journey, neither two coats, neither shoes, nor yet
staves, for the workman is worthy of his meat.” He used to say that he
had gone from home with a supply of money in his pockets, and had come
back with them empty, but that at other times he had left with them
empty or but scantily supplied, and he had returned with them full.
Generally he took just a little to provide against emergencies, but
otherwise he set forth trusting that his Master would provide for him.
In this he was not disappointed. The people were everywhere hospitable,
they provided fur his wants, and brought him on his journey, and even
made collections, which they gave to him. In this way his expenses were
moderate. He used to say that he had travelled all the way up above
Fredericton, in New Brunswick, a distance of about 300 miles and back,
at an expense of only twenty shillings.
Feeling the importance
of his work, he was accustomed on leaving to solicit the prayers of the
pious among his flock. On his way leaving he has frequently called at
the hut of Robert Marshall, and said, “I have just called in to ask you
to pray for me when I am away.”
In these journeys he
generally had companions—and so much was his company valued, that men
who did not show much regard for religion, who accompanied him on some
of his journeys often declared, that they were more than repaid by the
pleasure of his conversation, both for their time and trouble. He kept
up an incessant stream of edifying conversation. Much of this was
directly on religious subjects, and whatever subject came up he would
give it a religious turn. Reflections of a pious nature were finely
interspersed with conversation on ordinary topics, and this so naturally
as showed them to be the spontaneous effusion of a heart occupied with
sacred things, and whose religion mingled with the whole current of its
thoughts and emotions. But much of his conversation, particularly on
long journeys, was of a more general character, embracing a very wide
range of topics. At one time he might be found instructing them in the
mysteries of nature—at another, relating anecdotes of a light and
cheerful character, and again when conversation flagged, renewing its
interest by singing songs, either in English or Gaelic.
In the places which he
visited, his stay was necessarily short; sometimes a week, or, at most a
fortnight, being all the time he could spend in a single settlement. But
he made the most of his time, being employed night and day, with
scarcely relaxation enough for sleep. He, of course, preached on the
Sabbath day, and from the destitute condition in which he found the
people as to the gospel, his preaching was generally upon the great
central truths of the Christian system. To show this it is only
necessary to refer to the general character of his texts. They were such
as the following: “I count all things but loss for the excellency of the
knowledge of Christ Jesus, my Lord.” “Look unto me, and be ye saved, all
ye ends of the earth, for I am God, and beside me there is none else.”
“Be ye reconciled to God,” &c.
From the carelessness
and indifference prevalent among the people, be found it necessary to
labour, especially, to bring them to a sense of their guilt, and need of
pardoning mercy. This he endeavoured to do, not by general declamation
about human guilt and depravity, not by references to mankind at large,
but by references to themselves, and the enumeration of particulars in
their own conduct. He described in the plainest terms their evil
passions, anger, wrath, envy, &c.; their evil speaking, lying, Sabbath
breaking, drunkenness, &c., but from these rose to a higher exhibition
of their sinfulness by pointing out their relation to God, and showing
their alienation from his character, and total disregard of his claims.
But this was only probing the wound, that he might apply the balm which
is in Gilead. His exhibitions of man’s sinfulness were only the dark
ground, on which to exhibit in brighter colours the glories of Christ as
a Saviour.
From the ignorance of
the people too, he was led to seek the greatest simplicity of speech.
His language was the very plainest; and where he was preaching a single
sermon, not knowing whether his hearers would ever hear another, he
aimed, not at preaching a systematic discourse, but in saying what was
most impressive. For the purpose of rousing the careless he scrupled not
to employ a strong epithet, even though to some it might give offence.
Doctor MacCulIoch, in a
little work called “William and Melville,” thus describes him as he
appeared on one of these excursions: “In the course of the evening the
clergyman arrived. Few of the older Presbyterians of these Provinces are
strangers to the apostolic enterprise and exertions of Doctor MacGregor.
At a period when Nova Scotia presented to a clergyman only toil and
privation, he resigned the endearments of the land of his fathers, and
cast in his lot with the benighted and solitary inhabitants of the
forest. Aroused to activity by the vigour of youth, and burning with
desire to promote the best interests of man, be traversed the pathless
solitudes in every direction—not to collect the hire of the labourer
from the people of the wood, but to share their hardships, and to soothe
their sorrows by the tidings of salvation. Wherever a prospect of
usefulness opened, he disregarded fatigue and outbraved danger, that the
lost sheep of the desert might be restored to the fold. In one of these
excursions of mercy he had now arrived at the cottage.
“In the opinion of
Melville the appearance and manner of the clergyman were little
calculated to produce an impression in his favour. With the homely garb
of the country, he combined a plain simplicity of language which
indicated neither literary nor scientific acquirements. In the course of
the evening, however, Melville was agreeably disappointed, by
discovering, under this unassuming exterior, an extent of information
and good sense which he had not anticipated. The clergyman’s capacities
of directing the conversation particularly attracted his attention.
Whatever topic was mentioned, he appeared constantly to keep in view
that he was the minister of Christ, and by the well timed introduction
of some striking and affectionate remark, he imperceptibly turned the
thoughts of the company to the grave ends of human existence. Though
Melville had no desire for religious instruction, he found it impossible
to listen without being pleased.
“In theceottage, the
succeeding day was1 a Sabbath to the Lord. Mercy and truth had met
together; and there was joy in the wilderness and solitary place. The
clergyman’s discourse was rather a general exhibition of divine truth,
than the regular discussion of a particular topic. He viewed his hearers
as the servants of God, and the subjects of his law. Adverting to the
precepts of religion as a transcript of rectitude, lie showed them the
immutable nature of this standard of righteousness. Bringing them to its
test, he subjoined an impressive exhibition of the great misery and
utter helplessness of man ; and then turned them to the Saviour as their
sole relief. In simple but glowing language, he delineated the love and
grace of the Redeemer; and affectionately soliciting from them the
submission of faith at the footstool of money, he pressed upon their
minds the value of a religious life, and cheered them with the gospel,
in its blessed consolations and glorious results.
“As the clergyman
proceeded, the elevation of his feelings reached the hearts of his
hearers; his sentiments, combined with the mellowed tones of his voice,
were like showers that water the earth. It was a time of refreshing from
the presence of the Lord.”
There was something
very solemn in such work. He sometimes went to people, among whom would
be found persons twenty years of age, who had never heard a sermon. He
had only the opportunity of addressing them once or twice, and then a
year or perhaps two or three must elapse before he could again visit
them. Need we wonder that his whole soul was roused to the deepest
earnestness of appeal, and that he sought, in the simplest language he
could command, to explain the way of life, and that he besieged the
throne of grace for their salvation?
There was also much
that was pleasant. In every settlement there were persons, who
remembered with interest the privileges they had enjoyed in the more
favoured lands from which they had come, who “wept when they remembered
Zion.” To such his visits were green spots in their earthly pilgrimage,
the remembrance of which they cherished as among the purest of their
earthly joys. And to others, his preaching had all the attraction of
novelty,—and drawn by curiosity, his impressive manner at once riveted
attention, and they listened with eagerness to the marvellous story of
the cross as something entirely new.
Where the people were
sufficiently organized, he sometimes dispensed the sacrament of the
Lord’s Supper. On these occasions the ordinance was accompanied with all
the services then usual in Scotland, and the scene presented was such as
we have described as exhibited ou similar occasions in Pictou. There
were the same “solemn assemblies” from Thursday till Monday, the .same
crowds gathering from surrounding settlements, the outward circumstances
of meeting, under the blue vault of heaven, by the murmuring stream, or
under the shadow of the green wood, were the same, but to all this was
added the novelty of the scene. In many instances the young had never
seen the ordinance dispensed, and wonder mingled with their other
feelings as they instinctively enquired, “ What mean ye by this
service?’’ while to the old it was deeply affecting, as recalling
similar scenes in their native land. Involuntarily their minds reverted
to the stern mountains, or the peaceful valleys of Scotland or Ireland,
in which they had spent their youth. Tender recollections crowded upon
them of the lonely glen in the Highlands, the sunny dale of the
Lowlands, or the green fields of Ulster, where they and their fathers
had met to keep the feast, of the gathering of the various groups from
mountain and glen, of the minister from whose lips they first heard the
words of eternal truth, and of the times of refreshing from the presence
of the Lord, which they had there enjoyed. Long had they been ready to
say as David, “When we remember these things we pour out our souls in
us, for we had gone with the multitude; we went with them to the house
of God, with the voice of joy and praise, with a multitude that kept
holy day.” But now that God had visited them in a distant land, and
these hallowed scenes were renewed to them in the wilderness, they wept
for joy, and their feelings found expression in the language of David,
when bringing the ark to Jerusalem: “Lowe heard of it at Ephrata; we
found it in the fields of the wood. We will go into his tabernacles; we
will worship at his footstool. Arise, O Lord, into thy rest; thou and
the ark of thy strength. Let thy priests be clothed with righteousness,
and let thy saints shout for joy.”
We are not certain but
the very spots selected for preaching added to the interest of these
solemnities. In some places there were churches, but in others his
preaching was in barns or private dwellings, but just as frequently in
the open air, sometimes on the hill side under the shelter of the
forest, whose long shadows stretched across the multitude; or by some
brook whose soft murmur mingled with the psalm of the worshipper, as if
man and inanimate nature were combining their voices in one anthem to
their Creator; or in the intervales, where the overhanging banks shaded
them from the noonday sun. We have never preached in such circumstances,
nor sat in an assembly of this kind, without feelings such as we never
had in worshipping in any temples made by human hands. With him, too,
such were more impressive from his drawing many of his illustrations,
like the great Teacher, from the objects of nature around, and he
reached the height of impressiveness as he closed his labours, by
appealing to the rocks, the trees, the hills, or where within sight, to
the burying ground, the green graves, as witnesses against his hearers
in the day of judgment.
As he left his stand,
not pulpit, for such a thing he commonly possessed not, it was only to
enter upon an unceasing round of travelling, preaching, and religious
conversation. Where the people had been originally Presbyterians, and
retained the habits of their forefathers in Scotland or Ulster, one of
the modes of instruction found most effectual, was by diets of
examination. The whole inhabitants of a settlement would gather on such
an occasion, and in the course of catechizing, opportunities were
afforded to explain more particularly what was not clearly understood,
and of taking a wider view of the system of divine truth.
From his narrative it
will be seen that he was often called upon to administer the ordinance
of Baptism, particularly to children, sometimes twenty or thirty being
presented at one service. He however never dispensed it as mere form,
but only after thoroughly examining the parents, carefully instructing
them in the nature of the ordinance, and earnestly pressing upon them
the important obligations resting on them. But he was often called to
baptize adults, and his ministry afforded not a few examples of the
apostolic practice of baptizing households. Thus we have heard of his
baptizing the husband and wife and seven children at the same time. And
the following case recorded by himself, shows how the similarity of his
circumstances with those of the apostles produced an example of ‘‘going
down into [or to] the water.” “Being once,” he says, “on a missionary
excursion, I agreed with several parents to baptize their children next
day at public worship, but neither I nor they took thought to provide a
vessel for the water. The preaching was in the open air, by the side of
a brook, and when I desired the parents to present their children for
baptism, there was no vessel. This, however, was no serious difficulty.
Anyone in the congregation might say, 1 See here is water in the brook,
what doth hinder the children to be baptized there V As far as the brook
was in view of the congregation, no part of it was deep enough for
immersing the children and no part too shallow for sprinkling them. They
were sprinkled.”
Sometimes, also, he
preached on week-days in settlements around, so that there were journeys
on which he preached every day of the week. But his time on week-days
was chiefly occupied in teaching from house to house. The advantage of
this was that it gave him an opportunity of more direct dealing with
individuals. He especially addressed himself to heads of families,
because he was commonly asked to baptize their children, which he
sometimes did to the number of seven or eight, and he wished to impress
upon them a sense of their responsibility, and to lead them to the
faithful discharge of the duties of family religion, not only for their
own sake, but as the means which God commonly employs for the salvation
of the young. “Believe on the Lord Jesus Christ, and thou shalt be
saved, and thy house” And his discourse being conversational, an
opportunity was afforded for them to state their perplexities, and for
him to remove them.
In the houses in which
he lodged, the neighbours would gather to listen to him, so that his
conversation was often prolonged far into the night, while breakfast
would not be over the next morning, till some would again be round him.
And as he travelled to another settlement, many parted from him with
tears, while the young and the vigorous sometimes accompanied him either
on foot or on horse-hack, to the next place of labour, to listen to his
conversation by the way,—or to hear his discourse there. So incessant
were his labours that it was amazing how he could go through them with
so little rest. But at any interruption he would fall asleep, and he had
learned to sleep in any position, or in any circumstances, so that
sometimes he was found sleeping on horse-back, while his horse leisurely
pursued his journey—sometimes lying like his Master, in the hinder part
of a boat, with the hard stones of the ballast for his couch, and the
rail for his pillow, while again he would snatch a few minutes’ repose
on his chair, while those around him imagined him studying. Yet even
with the slight refreshment obtained in such ways, he started up to
resume his work with new vigour.
The effect of such a
visit even for a few days, among a people in a condition so destitute,
was much greater than at first sight would be supposed. It has been said
that he never visited a place, on such a mission, where saving results
did not follow. Believers, whose souls had long languished in the
spiritual drought reigning around them, were refreshed, and the things
that were ready to die were aroused into new life; souls not altogether
regardless, but who had been, as it were, feeling after God, and with
some degree of anxiety looking to their immortal interests, were guided
in the way of peace, and were filled with joy in believing; while many
careless were aroused to seek the Lord. On such occasions there was a
real revival of religion—not what is often understood in America by that
term— the getting up a mere animal excitement by means fitted to excite
weak nerves,—but solemn impressions of the truth, the mind, eager
inquiries after the way of life, and personal acceptance of the Saviour.
The number of individual cases of this kind resulting from his labours,
the great day alone can disclose.
But the most known
result was commonly the inducing an anxiety to have the ordinances of
the gospel regularly dispensed, and for that purpose, leading them to
make efforts to obtain the services of a minister of the gospel. Where
this was obtained within a reasonable time, the result was the formation
of a congregation. He planted, and by visits for some years would water,
and where a faithful labourer followed him, he reaped an abundant
increase; but with his own sphere of labour requiring more of his
attention, and new spheres claiming his sympathy, he was unable to build
where he had laid the foundation; and when, as was too often the case,
no faithful minister was obtained, the movement died out, or, at least
it became the scene of the labours of other denominations. “Herein is
that saying true, one soweth and another reapeth.” “That both he that
soweth, and he that reapeth may rejoice together.”
In this work he came to
take great delight. He saw the settlers every where as sheep scattered
upon the mountains with none to care for their souls—he met among them
the most cordial reception—every one who had any respect for religion,
and others feeling their ignorance and their need of instruction, alike
feeling the sentiments, if not adopting the language of the Prophet,
“How beautiful upon the mountains are the feet of him that bringeth good
tidings, that publisbeth peace, that bringeth good tidings of good, that
publisheth salvation !” He saw men listening with eagerness to the word
of life, and saw that word having free course and glorified among them.
This, his “joy therefore was fulfilled.” And we believe that it had a
good effect upon himself and his preaching. From early life he had been
pious, and in his first preaching he preached the truth, preached it
clearly, and with some degree of earnestness. But it was the sight of
the destitute condition of the settlers, as “sheep wanting a shepherd,”
and perishing, with none to care for their souls, that stirred his
spirit within him, kindled all the ardor of his nature, and filled him
with consuming: zeal for their salvation, and made his preaching of that
earnest and rousing character, by which it was afterwards characterized.
In this way his labours
extended over the then settled parts of Eastern Nova Scotia, and of New
Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. The most of the older Presbyterian
congregations throughout this extent either originated with him or were
cherished by him in their infancy. From the year 1788 till the year
1820, a period of over thirty years, scarce a year elapsed without one
or more missionary journey, such as we have described, so that he might
adopt the language of the apostle, which we have adopted, as descriptive
of his life: “In journeyings often, in perils of waters, in perils of
robbers, in perils by mine own countrymen, in perils by the heathen, in
perils in the city, in perils in the wilderness, in perils in the sea,
in perils among false brethren j in weariness and painfulness, in
watchings often, in hunger and thirst, in fastings often, in cold and
nakedness. Beside those things that are without, that which cometh upon
me daily, the care of all the churches.” |