FROM an architectural
point of view Toronto is in every way worthy of her position as capital
of the leading Province of the Dominion. To Montreal only, of all the
cities of the Dominion, does she yield the palm in this respect—and that
too with a decided, though perhaps not decidedly expressed, opinion,
that the day is not very far off which will see the Queen City of the
West outstrip her Eastern sister in this as in her other claims to
supremacy. Already she is treading hard on the heels of the latter in
the race for the commercial leadership; and in point of population her
progress has been so marked as to give well-grounded hopes that Toronto
will, before many decades have rolled past, stand at the head of the
list of Canadian cities in this as in all other respects.
To the stranger
approaching the city, whether by land or by water, Toronto scarcely
offers much promise of what she has to show. It is only when the visitor
drives through her streets that he can form any adequate idea of her
beauties. From an artistic point of view the site on which the city
stands is an unfortunate one. The ground lies low, gradually rising as
it leaves the lakeshore, until the upward slope terminates in the ridge
which bounds the view on the north. And it is only from this ridge,
crowned b\ the residences of some of the wealthier citizens, that
anything like a comprehensive view of the city can be obtained. But this
point of vantage is little known, even to many life-long residents,
though the prospect from its summit is not unlike that to be obtained
from the mountain that keeps guard over Montreal. It is true that it
lacks the marked features of the latter, the broad St. Lawrence, spanned
by the Victoria Bridge, and the deep blue hills of Vermont in the far
distance. The out look from Toronto's little mountain covers an unbroken
background of shining water, except on an exceptionally clear day, when
the dim coastline on the other side of the lake is barely visible, and
towards the right the "pillar of smoke" which overhangs Niagara Falls is
most distinguishable. But it is the only spot from which a Bisgah-like
view of the entire city can be obtained, and this being the case it is
surprising that its advantages have not yet been utilized. Views of
Toronto, so-called, have hitherto generally been taken either from some
steeple or tower, from which only a limited portion of the city can be
seen; or from the bay or island—the result ;n the latter case being
merely a representation of the water front and the buildings in the
immediate vicinity, backed by a sprinkling of spires and chimneys. Yet
even viewed from the bay there are bits of perspective which are far
from being unattractive, notably the glimpse afforded of Spadina Avenue,
lined on either side by foliage and terminating in the buildings of Knox
College. Simcoe Street, with Erskine Church in the distance, is another
case in point.
Speaking of foliage it
will scarcely do to leave .unnoticed one of the special beauties of the
streets of Toronto—the trees. True we have no giant elms such as Oliver
Wendell Holmes loves; nor any historic oaks to delight the antiquarian
and move the poet's soul to song. But trees we have in plenty. It used
to be said that there was not a spot in London from which a tree could
not be seen. Surely there is scarcely a spot in Toronto's streets where
trees in abundance do not meet the eye. The chestnut is by long odds the
favourite, though the elm, the poplar, the oak, and Canada's own maple
are by no means wanting. The more fashionable thoroughfares are lined
with them, while the less pretentious by-ways, the home of the artisan
and the mechanic, give goodly promise of refreshing greenery in the near
future, even every bandbox of a cottage having before it its sapling or
two and its bit of boulevard.
The artist and the
aesthete would doubtless be no more inclined to go into raptures over
the arrangement of the streets of Toronto than over the selection of its
site. But the former, like the latter, is eminently convenient and
practical, and admirably suited to the requirements of a city of
commercial aspirations. As ,s the case with most modern cities, the
streets of Toronto run north and south, or east and west—a main artery
starting at the edge of the lake and extending due north for thirty
miles, from Lake Ontario to Lake Simcoe. Crossing Yonge Street at its
outset are the two great thoroughfares King and Queen Streets, and
nearly a mile further north Bloor Street, formerly the dividing line
between the city and the suburb of Yorkvnle, stretches away westward far
beyond the city limits into the open country. For convenience of
topographical description these tour streets may be accepted as dividing
the city into five great divisions. The first of these is that lying to
the south of King Street and extending as far as the waters of the bay.
The second would consist of the long torpedo-shaped strip extending from
the junction of King and Queen Streets at High Park, in the west, to the
point where they again converge on the banks of the Don, in the east.
The third would include the area east of Yonge, north of Queen and south
of Bloor, but extending beyond the extremities of the two latter streets
across the Don. The fourth would cover the corresponding district west
of Yonge Street; and the fifth the quondam Village of Yorkville, now
formig part and parcel of the city.
Before entering upon
any detailed description of these arbitrary districts, it will be well
to take a cursory glance at the mam thoroughfares which form their
boundaries, leaving fuller accounts of their principal architectural
features to be dealt with later.
To King Street be given
the/>as. It is more aristocratic, more frequented and more
business-like— in so far, at feast, as its central portion is
concerned—than any of its sisters. It can also lay claim to greater
antiquity, having been the first thoroughfare of the future city —the
village street of Muddy little York. King Street extends almost the
entire length of the city, from High Park to the Don, where it joins
Queen Street and, after crossing the bridge over the river, becomes the
Kingston Road. It is on King Street, from York Street to Church, that
the fashionable stores are situated; and here that, of a fine afternoon
from three till six, the fashionables and would-be fashionables of the
city most do congregate to display their charms and then attire,
affecting especially for that purpose the south, or "dollar" side. It is
in this portion of the street that are situated the Rossiu House, for
many years one of the leading hotels, and the principal dry-goods,
millinery and jewellery stores, on the south side; while on the north
side are the offices of the Canadian Pacific, Railway Company, in the
building erected and formerly occupied by the ill fated United Empire
Club; the stately building of the Mail Printing Company, which suffered
to a considerable extent by fire on the 24th of May last; the less
pretentious and older Globe office, the scene of the shooting of the
Hon. George Brown ; besides restaurants and stores, the latter of a more
staid appearance than the fashionable shops across the way, and devoted
to the sale of the necessaries rather than of the luxuries of life. On
the north-east corner of King and Church Streets stands the Anglican
Cathedral of St. James, and a little further eastward, on the south
side, the St. Lawrence Hall and Market. This part of the street is
almost entirely given up to the farmers and those who supply their
wants; here the jewellery and millinery stores give place to emporiums
for the sale' of substantial clothing, seeds and agricultural
implements, and to hotels of the class chiefly frequented by the farming
community. Beyond the St. Lawrence Hall King Street East -s utterly
commonplace. Probably the malaria which is known to infest this portion
of the city is an obstacle to its progress and prosperity. West of
York-Street, as far as Spadina Avenue, King Street still presents
noteworthy features, more especially St. Andrew's Church, Upper Canada
College and Government House. Beyond the avenue this end of the street
is as dead, as deserted and as colourless as the opposite extremity.
Yonge Street ranks next
to King in importance as a business thoroughfare, stretching from end to
end of the city- and even far beyond as a country road—and, forming the
dividing line between East and West Toronto, it might be compared to the
backbone of the city, while the lesser thoroughfares that intersect it
form the r bs. From the Esplanade to King Street it is lined by handsome
buildings, chiefly occupied as banks, insurance offices and wholesale
business houses, one of its most prominent features being the Custom
House on the the corner of Front. Above King Yonge Street is not rich m
architectural specimens, though here and there a lofty building of
recent construction towers above its neighbours. Until, say within the
last ten years, the structures lining this portion of the-thoroughfare
were of the plainest description—mainly two-story buildings of the
ordinary brick-and-mortar or rough-cast type. But of late several
handsome stores have been erected, notably the Arcade, just finished, a
row of retail stores just above Queen Street on the west side, and
another row on the opposite side just below Wilton Avenue. Unpretentious
as its buildings are, however, Yonge Street is no whit behind King
Street as to the amount of business transacted—if it does not even
surpass its more fashionable sister m this respect. Along its whole
length as far as Bloor Street, and for several hundred yards beyond this
point, it presents an almost unbroken succession of stores, taverns and
restaurants.
()iieen Street, another
important retail business thoroughfare, presents a sing ilar combination
of splendour and squalor, which cannot fail to strike the observant
peripatetic. It presents, side by side, some of the finest buildings and
some of the most wretched hovels in the city. Osgoode Hall, one of the
noblest architectural monuments to be found m Toronto, is jostled by the
miserable slums of St. John's Ward and the low dives of York Street.
Shaftesbury Hall, another imposing structure, is surrounded by
contemptible shanties and vis-a-vis'd by the tumble-down rookeries of
Jew dealers in second-hand furniture and cast-off clothing. "Trinity
College and the Lunatic Asylum are more fortunately situated, though the
contrast they
ST. ANDREWS' CHURCH.
offer with the
structures in their immediate vicinity is sufficiently striking. By far
the larger portion of the business of Queen Street is transacted west of
Yonge, the dead-alive condition of the eastern section being the very
antithesis of the bustling, business-like air that pervades the section
between Spadina Avenue and Bathurst Street. Still further westward Queen
Street runs through the suburb of Parkdale, which has hitherto
persistently resisted all attempts to induce it to follow the example of
its sister suburbs and takes its fortunes with those of the city. A
feature worth noticing at this end of Queen Street is the subway—now
nearly completed— that goes beneath the railway tracks at what used to
be an exceedingly dangerous crossing.
In the district south
of King Street almost the entire wholesale trade of Toronto is
concentrated, as well as the greater part of its heavier manufacturing
industries—the former grouped especially in the immediate vicinity of
Yonge Street, the latter scattered over the outlying districts. Crossing
Yonge Street at right angles are, in order from the Bay upwards, Front,
Wellington and Colborne Streets, the two first-named lined with imposing
structures erected by private enterprise, the last narrow, dirty and
gloom\, but all three "full of business," as will' be seen when we come
to speak of Toronto's financial and mercantile institutions. In the
eastern half of this division are the City Hall, the St. Lawrence Hall
and Market, the Northern Railway Station, the Drill Shed, the Gas Works,
a great distillery, a brewery or two, and several factories. The extreme
end of this eastern section is a dreary wilderness, into which no man
ever seems to venture except the aborigines, and in which all the refuse
of the city seems to accumulate. It has already been hinted that the
unsavoury reputation it bears from a sanitary point of view is probably
at the bottom of its want of prosperity. Certain it is that if the
curious pedestrian wishes to see the abomination of desolation standing
at his very gates he need only take a stroll through this unsavoury
region of a Sunday morning. West of Yonge Street, and running parallel
to it, Bay and York Streets are almost entirely given up to business,
the succeeding streets being as exclusively reserved for private
dwellings. At the foot of York Street stands the Union Station—the
centre of nearly all the railways of the Province—surrounded by hotels,
both great and small. West of the Union Station are the freight sheds,
and from this point westward a large slice of this section is
monopolized by railway tracks, cattle sheds, round houses, immigrant
sheds, etc. To the north of the freight sheds are the Parliament
Buildings, and still further north Government House. At the extreme
western end of this division are the Central Prison, the Exhibition
Buildings, and the Old and New Forts. The Esplanade, with its numerous
tracks, forms the southern boundary of the division, and is fringed with
elevators, wharves, coal-yards, and boat-houses.
Between King and Queen
Streets lies one of the most important sections ot the city. Not only
does it embrace a large portion of the retail trade of the better class,
but being the habitat of the minor courts of law, it is much affected by
lawyers, whose offices cluster thickly about Adelaide, Church, and
Toronto Streets. The latter thoroughfare—a somewhat ambitious title for
a street not much over fifty yards long—is perhaps the busiest in the
city; it certainly is so for its size. It is the immediate approach to
the Post-office from the south, which perhaps accounts for a portion of
the activity manifested; but apart from this it is, from end to end,
emphatically a business street, lined with large and costly buildings,
which are chiefly occupied by lawyers, financial and insurance companies
and brokers. On the south side of Adelaide Street, to the west of
Toronto Street, stands the Court-house and County building, of which the
less said the better: and further on, on the north-east corner of
Adelaide and Church, the Public Library, formerly the Mechanics'
Institute. On Couit Street, an alley leading from Toronto to Church,
stands the Police Court building, a wretchedly inadequate structure,
which also contains a police station and fire hall. From Church Street
eastwards there is little to interest the, stranger; the streets, which
higher up become broad and beautiful thoroughfares, being, below Queen
Street, squalid and unpicturesque. To the west of Yonge, on Adelaide
Street, is the Grand Opera House, and just beyond this, running parallel
with Yonge, Bay Street, formerly Bear, near the north-west corner of
which stands a portion of Duel's brewery, in which the reformers of 1837
used to hold their meetings previous to the outbreak of that year. The
next street to Bay is York, which in this portion bears perhaps a worse
reputation than any other street in the city. Its low dives life the
resort of all the worst characters of both sexes, and it is in this
vicinity that illegal liquor-selling and midnight brawling have their
fullest swill. The street itself has possibilities in the way of making
a handsome thoroughfare, but its broken sidewalks, tumble-down shanties,
and frowsy second-hand stores give it at present an appearance as
unenviable as its reputation. Nothing less than a clean sweep of the
ricketty tenements that cover it would be necessary to prepare the way
for its regeneration and purification. For some distance beyond York
Street this section is characterless —colourlessly respectable; but
proceeding eastwards, and more especially on the further side of Spadina
Avenue, the evidences of comfort decrease, the dwellings are of a more
humble class, and we are once more among the homes of the less fortunate
citizens.
Above Queen Street—with
the exception of Yonge, Church, Parliament, Spadina Avenue, and other
thoroughfares of a similar type—the business character of. the city
disappears. Private houses are now the rule, and shops—barring the
ubiquitous corner grocery and the tavern— the exception. In the section
lying east of Yonge Street are some of the finest residences ir the
city. In this particular, Jarvis Street, with its costly mansions,
carefully tended grounds, and luxuriant shade-trees, stands pre-eminent.
Sherbourne Street and some of the cross-streets— notably Carlton and
Wellesley—are not far behind; while nearly the whole section, and
notably that portion lying north of Wilton Avenue, is neatly laid out in
blocks of private houses of a superior class. The streets are well paved
and broad, the situation elevated, the air pure, and these many
advantages have caused this portion of the city to be regarded as one of
the most desirable positions for private residences. In fact, the whole
district has within the last ten years been built over with amazing
rapidity, so that it is fortunate that two breathing-spaces, the
Horticultural Gardens and Riverside Park, have been secured to the
residents. In this section, towards its north-east corner, are the
General Hospital, the Medical Schools, St. James' Cemetery and the
Necropolis. Among its public buildings it also numbers the Normal
School, Boys' Home, Gals' Home, and Collegiate Institute, besides a
number of handsome schools, and, across the Don, the Jail. Its eastern
boundary is Greenwood's side-line, running north from the Kingston Road
just below Leslieville. The other section of this division. —that to the
west of Yonge Street, extending to the western boundary of the former
suburb of Brockton—presents a fantastic melange of poverty and wealth,
of ramshackle shanties and princely residences, of gross ignorance and
high culture. Immediately adjoining Yonge Street, and extending to the
Queen Street Avenue, is the notorious St. John's Ward, at once the negro
quarter, the Five Points, and the St. Giles' of Toronto. This
description at least applies to its southerly half; its northern portion
contains many elegant residences and handsome streets. But below the
Yonge Street Avenue, Chestnut, Centre, and Elizabeth Streets bear a
reputation that is only excelled in unsavouriness by that of York
Street, and equalled by that of William Street to the west. In the
"Noble" Ward—so called presumably on the Incus a non lucendo pr nciple—are
Osgoode Hall, the House of Industry, the Hospital for Sick Children, and
Shaftesbury Hall, lo the north-west of it lie the Queen's Park and
Provincial University, with the spacious grounds surrounding the latter
stretching northwards to Bloor Street and westwards to St. George. In
the immediate vicinity of the University, and lying to the south, are
the. School of Practical Science,
Meteorological
Observatory, and Wycliffe Hall, the latter a Church of England Divinity
School of the Evangelical type. To the east of the Park, on St. Joseph
Street, it St. Michael's (R.C.) College, and north of the University, on
Bloor Street, McMaster Hall, the Baptist Theological College. All the
above mentioned institutions are either connected with or affiliated to
the University. Crossing the Queen Street Avenue, a noble drive shaded
by chestnut trees, another region of respectability is reached. That
portion of this district which lies between Queen Street and College
Street is well built up with a substantial and in many cases superior
class of residences. Above College Street the land is more open, but
building operations are in constant progress. Knox College, the
Presbyterian Theological Hall, stands at the head of Spadina Avenue,
which is probably the widest, and might be one of the finest
thoroughfares in the city. Architectural! speaking, however, it is
beneath contempt, if we except one or two recent additions. From Spadina
Avenue to Pellwoods Avenue all is dead commonplace. In this vicinity is
Claremont Street, that has of late acquired an unenviable reputation in
connection with a settlement of recently mported Irish paupers who
achieved some notoriety during the latter portion of 1883. Then come the
Bickford grounds and those of Trinity College, spreading north as far as
Arthur Street, above which the land is entirely open. From Trinity
College to the western limits the ground has of late years been rapidly
broken, and a class of private houses erected very similar to those that
cover the north-eastern portion of the city.
North of Bloor Street
lies the beautiful suburb of Rosedale and the former suburb of
Yorkville, the latter now forming a part of the city and known as St.
Paul's Ward. Its western section is laid out in well kept avenues, in
which not a few residences of the better class have been erected. Bloor
Street, on both sides, is also well endowed in this respect. To the
north of Yorkville lie Mount Pleasant and St Michael's cemeteries and
the waterworks basin. The only features in this section specially
deserving of mention are the former town hall and the Magdalen Asylum. |