THE Earl of Southesk, who travelled in the
North-West years ago, speaks of the country as the 'pleasant
Saskatchewan country.' No description could be more apt, until you
arrive at the mountains, when of course the scenery is magnificent. From
Winnipeg' to Edmonton the aspect of the country for hundreds of miles
has a great sameness; it is gently undulating, and studded with clumps
of poplars and spruce firs, and gives the impression of peacefulness and
rest, with a sense of neatness and cultivation, as if the traveller were
in the outlying parts of an old English park, too far from the house to
receive particular attention. All the scene gives a picture of pleasant
freedom. The calm blue sky overarching vast distances in the daytime;
the sunrise, pompous and glorious, with rich golden colours variously
mingled with the blue of the sky, gives an idea of sweet majesty; and in
the eventide the sunsets are unsurpassed for graceful splendour. In sky-scape,
or the varied scenery of the heavens, few skies in the world can surpass
these, and, as nature is full of harmony, not only to the ear but also
to the eye, the impression is unique and pleasant, and it is not to be
wondered at that the natives of the Saskatchewan love their land, and
return to it from their journeyings with gladness. Besides the vastness
of the scenes above and below, on the banks of brooks and rivers, there
are innumerable broken, hilly spots, filled with vegetation, generally
well wooded, where poets might make homes of beauty and rest. It is as
if Nature had said: 'The plains are made for agriculture, and the toil
of brave hands; but I have also made spots where the thinkers of a
nation may live to idealize the common life, and thus make a perfect
nation.'
On ascending to the mountains, the hills are
steeper, and the views are more extensive, but there is much the same
vegetation. Only in some places do the Rockies show their full height,
because of the gradual ascent for hundreds of miles. Yet they seldom
disappoint the beholder. When the sun is shining, and the mists are
lifted to reveal God's splendour, they entrance the attention, and charm
the mind to reflection on the awful silent forces which of old placed
them there, and now seem to guard them continually, by night and day, by
summer and winter, through long ages as men reckon time, saying to every
mood of the human spirit, 'One day is with the Lord as a thousand years,
and a thousand years as one day.' The name of the mountains rather jars
upon the mind, and the inexperienced traveller might expect to see a
bare and almost repulsive scene when he beholds them. The 'Rockies,'
however, are as beautiful as any of the great mountain ranges which the
world possesses--certainly as seen from a distance. The impression they
make is that of graceful majesty. I can imagine the mountains of India
as being more gorgeous in the lower scenery, but not as of a majesty
more graceful in the higher regions.
The far West country has hill and dale,
gentle brooks, flowing rivers, broad plains, and magnificent mountains;
and these indicate great natural advantages, and almost illimitable
possibilities for that portion of mankind which may make it a home, and
help on the march of human history.
The geology of our country speaks of immense
changes which have been preparing an abode for man, and is in itself a
prophecy of certain fulfilment. Our soil is of unexcelled richness;
beneath it are almost boundless coal-beds; gold is washed down from the
mountains in sufficient quantities to make a paying industry. Our wheat
is equal to any grown in the world, when proper care is used in its
cultivation. Around us are lakes stocked with an abundance of fish.
There are indications of salt, petroleum, and kindred substances, such
as naphtha, etc. Iron, probably in abundance, is evident over large
distances, as I have proved, from the Eagle Hills to the Mountain Fort,
and also in the Edmonton district, over a country hundreds of miles in
extent.
Then, as to home-life, and the possibilities
of it in the Saskatchewan, we have many advantages, with, of course, our
drawbacks. We have no ants or insects which eat up our furniture and our
books, as there are in Africa; no loathsome reptiles to destroy, as in
South America; we have innocent pests in our gardens and fields, such as
the gopher and the mole, but what are these in a new land which only
contained hunters for many ages? The climate is extreme in summer and
winter; during the other parts of the year it is healthy and very
pleasant, and fitted to produce and sustain a manly race. Our seasons
are much the same as in England, only we are in extremes; our latitude
somewhat corresponds with that of Great Britain, yet our seasons are
later, because we are far to the west. Our springs are late in coming,
because the nights are cold while the days are warm; when they do come
it is with a rush, as if Nature hastened to make up for lost time. Then,
at the end of May, and during June, the roses bloom in wild luxuriance,
and fill the air with fragrance. The saskatoon and wild cherry-trees are
covered with their white blossoms, and charm the sight on all sides;
then come on, in their course, innumerable wild flowers--asters and
others decking the earth everywhere with graceful loveliness. Then our
autumns--who can picture them with their gaudy colours, their
dreaminess, as if they were bestowing a benediction on the departing
summer; their warm days, and cool evenings, and long nights; after the
work of the day the gentle firelight giving invitation to gentle
friendships, and the quietude of family life?
As yet the capabilities of our soil and
climate have not been properly tested, so as to show what fruits and
flowers and shrubs will thrive best in our gardens; for, as yet, out of
the towns gardens are seldom made around our dwellings: the farm reaches
up to the doorstep, and almost invades the house. In the country we are
at present a slovenly people, and a taste for flowers is at a discount;
the work is so hard and incessant for the men, and the women are so
occupied with their poultry, and their cows, and their butter-making,
and their housework, that they are all too much engaged to work
leisurely in a garden, or even to enjoy the luxury of one. Hence, our
log-houses are bare places, and their surroundings are commonplace
beyond description. But although we may not manage orchards on a large
scale, there seems to be no reason why, in the future, the hardy apples
should not grow, as our climate is not more severe than Quebec, where
the finest apples are grown with ordinary care. So with plums and some
kinds of pears; probably, also, the hardier grape-vines may ripen around
our dwellings in the days to come. Anything which grows in Northern
Russia ought to grow here, for the conditions are much the same as those
from St. Petersburg to the Sea of Okhotsk. We have many delicious wild
fruits which, with cultivation, serve for summer and winter use.
Preserves are made of our wild cranberries, strawberries, gooseberries,
black and red currants. The wild raspberry especially is a fine fruit,
useful both in summer and in winter-time. The saskatoon is a delicious
berry for summer use, and, when served with cream and sugar, makes a
dessert fit for a queen. These fruits may all be had in most years for
the picking, so kind is Nature to our first necessities.
Some of the people have grown the cultivated
strawberry. In my garden the rhubarb plant comes to perfection, and the
different red currants live, and often bear enormous crops. Potatoes,
peas, beans, asparagus, cabbages, etc., and the small salads grow here
as well as in any country, and the simplest home need not be without an
abundance of them. A little care will grow the herbs of Europe, such as
mint and thyme, but parsley must be sown year by year. Simple annual
flowers remind us of the sweet cottage gardens at home, the
sweet-williams flourish, and sow their seed as they have opportunity,
and the pinks and carnations thrive with a little trouble. There is a
hardy candytuft, with an exquisite white blossom, which is not willing
to leave our gardens when we have once placed it there; the English
marigolds willingly sow themselves without any protection; and the
pansies come up and flower early in the springtime, and all through the
summer.
Our many shrubs, when in flower, would grace
a lawn in England, and, if trained, they would rival the hawthorn, which
we have wild here, or the laurel. For years the common lilac has
blossomed with me, and once or twice the white lilac, but the latter is
always sickly, and comes to very little, perhaps because the moles eat
the roots. As for roses, I have tried to grow them until I became very
discouraged, and I fear the labour will be in vain unless they are newly
planted year by year.
In many cases I do not blame the climate so
much as the insects and vermin for the failure in my experiments. I
planted the Canadian sugar-maple seed, with many other tree seeds, and
the maple seed grew; but the saccharine matter attracted one insect
after another, and they ate the leaves as fast as they could grow. I
raised some fine Austrian fir-trees from seed, and brought them on
splendidly through two winters, but in the third winter the wild rabbits
ate them all up in one night, and thus my hopes of rearing this
beautiful tree, as a magnificent ornament to our North-West, were
destroyed. In a catalogue issued by a Toronto firm of experienced
nurserymen they say, in speaking of hardy shrubs for hedges: 'The Osage
orange would make an excellent hedge, but it is too tender for the
climate around Toronto.' But I have reared here, and still have, the
Osage orange thriving as if it were native to the soil, and it has never
had protection, nor does it in the least require it. When hedges are
wanted in the North-West, this will prove the tree for that purpose,
being quick of growth, prickly, dense; and it can be pruned to any
extent; it is also very handsome in its foliage. Besides the above, I
expect, from present appearances, to cultivate as shrubs the syringa,
the privet, and the guelder rose.
As for the common clovers, they are not
likely to be used much in the North-West for hay; they flower in the
garden, but are of slender growth, and soon die out; however, the
timothy, in low rich situations, makes good crops and seldom fails. With
me the Bokhara clover has lived for years, and sown itself; it is able
to survive our winters, and it would yield large crops several times in
the summer. Farmers should give it their attention, for seedsmen
recommend it, and it is certainly adapted to our North-West. It is, I
have observed, also excellent for bees, which delight in its white
flowers, and would make exquisite honey from them.
Some of these matters may prove useful and
interesting to a large class of immigrants, and those contemplating
emigration, who have the home feeling, and who, in going to another
land, wish to make homes and enjoy them. With many this is a great
motive in crossing the sea, and beginning life afresh; they wish to keep
their children around them, and to take with them some of the graces and
refinements of civilization, and I hope I have made it evident that
this, however difficult, is certainly possible. |