In the extreme
northwest of Canada and as far removed as possible from the early
settlements on the Atlantic seaboard, is a vast triangular-shaped tract
of territory, which, until the early forties, had not been penetrated by
the undaunted traders of the Hudson's Hay Company. This, at that time
unknown territory, is bounded on the south on the northern line of the
province of British Columbia, at a point on the extreme southwest by a
part of the littoral belonging to the United States Territory of Alaska,
on the west by the eastern line of the Territory of Alaska, on the north
by the Arctic Ocean and on the east by the 130™ meridian and the
northern ranges of the Rocky Mountains. The Yukon Territory contains,
approximately, an area of 190,970 square miles, 649 square miles of
which is covered by water.
Robert Campbell, the
founder of Fort Selkirk, 1838-1848.
In I838 one Robert
Campbell, in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company, had established a
trading post at Dease Lake, about ninety miles south of the boundary
line between the territory above defined and the province of British
Columbia. Dease Lake post was abandoned in the following year, and
Campbell was commissioned by Sir George Simpson, who was then the
resident Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, to explore the north
branch of the Liard to its source and to cross the height of land in
search of any river flowing to the westward.
Mr. Campbell writes:
'In pursuance of these instructions, I left Fort Halkett (on the lower
Liard) in May, with a canoe and seven men, among them my trusty Indians,
Lapie and Kitza, and the interpreter Hoole. After ascending the stream
some hundreds of miles, far into the mountains, we entered a beautiful
lake, which I named Frances lake, in honour of Lady Simpson. Leaving the
canoe and part of the crew near the southwest (sic) extremity of this
(west) branch of the lake, I set out with three Indians and the
interpreter. Shouldering our blankets and guns, we ascended the valley
of a river, which we traced to its source in a lake ten miles long,
which, with the river, I named Finlaison's lake and river.
From this point Dr. G.
M. Dawson says, 'Mr. Campbell struck across to the Pelly, which he then
named in honour of Sir H. Pelly, a governor of the company.'
While Campbell was
exploring this part of the Pelly, the members of his party, whom he had
left at Frances lake, had built, a house between the two arms of the
lake and established a post which was named Port Frances. In 1842 a fort
was constructed at Pelly banks, and in June, 1843, Campbell, accompanied
by two French Canadians and three Indians, descended the Pelly to its
continence with a river which Campbell called the Lewes. At this point
there was a large camp of Wood Indians, who told Campbell alarming
stories of the numerous savage tribes on the lower river. Campbell
decided to return to Pelly banks until he could obtain more reliable
information of the numbers and character of the people north of the
confluence of the Lewes and Pelly. From information obtained by hunting
parties, who were sent down the Pelly to obtain provisions and trade
with the Indians, Campbell was convinced that the danger was not so
great, as the Indians would have him believe, and early in June, 1848,
he again descended the Pelly, and established Fort Selkirk at the
confluence of the Pelly and Lewes rivers.
In 1842 Mr. J. Fell,
who some years later was in charge of the Hudson's Bay post on Peel
river, had descended the Porcupine for a considerable distance. In 1846
he again descended the Porcupine to its mouth, and saw the great river,
which the Indians in the vicinity called the Yukon. In the following
year Fort Yukon was established at the mouth of the Porcupine by Mr. A.
H. Murray, who was also in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company.
In 1850, Campbell
descended the river from Fort Selkirk to Fort Yukon, and thus proved
beyond all doubt that the Pelly and Yukon rivers were identical from
Fort Selkirk to the month of the Porcupine. On this trip Campbell
ascended the Porcupine and returned to Fort Simpson by way of the
Mackenzie.
Some seven or eight
years before the establishment of Fort Selkirk it appears that the
Russians had been exploring inland from the month of the Yukon, as the
following facts ascertained by Mr. Dawson will show: 'The estuary of the
Yukon appears to have been first explored by the Russian, Glasunoff, in
1835 to 1838, and the river was then named by the Russians the Kwikhpak,
which name according to Mr. W. H. Fall, is in reality that of one of the
channels by which it issues to the sea. The lower part of the river,
however, continued to he known under this name for a number of years,
and it is so called on the Russian map of Lieut, Zagoskin, made from
reconnaissance surveys which, in I812-43, he carried up as far as
Nowikakat.
Destruction of Fort
Selkirk, 1852.
After Campbell had
completed the great circuit of the Pelly-Yukon-Porcupiue-Mackenzie
route, he returned to Fort Selkirk, which was rapidly becoming a most
important trading post on account of its central location in the hunting
grounds of the different tribes of Indians on the Lewes, Pelly and
Yukon. The traders seem to have been on friendly terms with the Indians
in the vicinity of Selkirk, but there is no record of Campbell or any of
his parry ever having, up to this time, ascended the Lewes river to any
great distance or traded with the Indians in the regions nearer the
coast. About this time an unfortunate disaster happened to Fort Selkirk,
which misfortune seems to have closed Campbell's career in the Yukon.
Dr. Dawson presents the
facts as follows:—
'The several ruined
chimneys of Fort Selkirk still to be seen, with other traces on the
ground, are in themselves evidence of the important dimensions and
careful construction of this post. The Establishment consisted, 1
believe, in 1852, of one senior and one junior clerk and eight men. The
existence of this post in the centre of the inland or "Wood-Indian"
country had, however, very seriously interfered with a lucrative and
usurious trade which the Chilcoot and Chilkat Indians of Lynn Canal, on
the coast, had long been accustomed to carry on with there people;
acting as intermediaries between them and the white traders on the
Pacific and holding the passes at the headwaters of the Lewes with all
the spirit of robber barons of old. In 1852 rumour was current that
these people meditated a raid upon the post, in consequence of which the
friendly local Indians stayed by it nearly all summer of their own
accord. It so happened, however, that they absented themselves for a
couple of days, and at that unlucky moment the coast Indians arrived.
The post was unguarded by a stockade, and yielding to sheer force of
numbers the occupants were expelled and the place was pillaged, on the
21st August. Two days afterwards Campbell, having found the local
Indians, returned with them and surrounded the post, but the robbers had
flown. Being now without means of support for the winter, Campbell set
off down stream to meet Mr. Stewart and the men who were on the way back
from Fort, Yukon. He met them at the mouth of White river, and after
turning them back with instructions to arrange for wintering at Fort
Yukon, set out himself in a small canoe up the Felly river, crossed to
Frances lake, descended the Liard and arrived at Fort Simpson with the
tidings of the disaster, amid drifting ice, on the 2'lst of October.
Being anxious to obtain
Sir George Simpson's permission to re-establish Fort Selkirk, Campbell
waited only until the river froze, when he left Fort Simpson on
snowshoes, and travelled overland to Crow Wing, in Minnesota, where he
arrived on the 13th of March. On the I8th of April he reached London,
but was unable to obtain from the directors of the company the
permission he desired.
'In the autumn of 1853
one of ('ampbell's hunters arrived at Fort Halkett on the lower Liard,
by way of the Pelly and Frances. This is the last traverse of Campbell's
portage of which I can find any record, though it may doubtless have
been used by the Indians subsequently. From this man it was learnt that
the buildings at Fort Selkirk had been all but demolished by the local
Indians for the purpose of getting tin ironwork and the nails, he also
stated that the Chilkats, being unable to carry away all their plunder
in the preceding year, had taken merely the guns, powder and tobacco.
They had cached the heavier goods, which were afterwards found and
appropriated by the local or Wood Indians.'
This remarkable
journey, which was made by Campbell from Fort Selkirk to London, a
distance of about 9,700 miles, over three thousand of which he travelled
on snow-shoes in the dead of winter through a practically uninhabited
wilderness, is a splendid testimony of the intrepid spirit and
determined character of those adventurous traders and explorers, whose
unostentatious yet energetic services in the cause of commerce have done
so much to open up to civilization the vast natural resources of the
great Northwest. To undertake such a journey at that season of the year
would indicate the importance from a commercial standpoint which
Campbell attached to the trading post at Selkirk, and it must have been
a great disappointment to him when the directors of the company refused
to re-establish the fort. Upon his return, he took charge of the
Athabaska district, where he remained until I863, when he was appointed
to the company's post at Swan River. He left the service of the Hudson's
Bay Company in 1873 having been in its service forty years, and in 1880
removed to Strathelair, 'Manitoba, where he died in 1894.
In 1869 the Hudson's
Bay Company's officer was notified to leave Fort Yukon by the United
States government officers, as it had been ascertained that this post
was situated within United States territory. A post was then established
at Rampart House, but in 1890 Mr. J. H. Turner, of the United States
Coast Survey, found that this new post was also in United States
territory, and in the following year the Hudson's Bay Company
established a post twenty miles further up the Porcupine.
First Gold Discovery.
In I869 'minute specks
of gold' had been found in the Yukon by some of the Hudson's Bay
Company's men.
In 1873 one Arthur
Harper and a party left British Columbia to prospect on several rivers
in the Yukon Territory, and the result of this prospecting was summed up
by Harper in a conversation with Mr. Ogilvie as follows: 'Nothing on the
Nelson, prospects on the Liard, nothing on the Mackenzie, good prospects
on the Peel, some on thy Porcupine, and prospects everywhere on the
Yukon.'
Harper and his party
prospected for some distance up the White river, but not being
successful they descended the river to St. Michaels, where some of them
entered the service of the Alaska Commercial Company, then trading in
the valley.
The Alaska Commercial
Company for many years subsequent to the retirement of the Hudson's Bay
Company had a practical monopoly of the trade of the Yukon, carrying
into the country and delivering at various points along the river,
without regard to the international boundary line or the customs laws
and regulations of Canada, such articles of commerce as were required
for the prosecution of the fur trade, and latterly of placer mining,
these being the only two existing industries. With the discovery of
gold, however, came the organization of a competing company known as the
North American Transportation and Trading Company, having its
headquarters in Chicago and its chief trading and distributing post at
Cudahy. This company has been engaged in this trade for over three
years, and during the past season despatched two ocean steamers from
Seattle to St. Michaels, at the mouth of the Yukon, the merchandise from
which was at the last: mentioned point transhipped into river steamers
and carried to points inland, but chiefly to the company's distributing
centre within Canadian territory. Importations of considerable value,
consisting of the immediately requisite supplies of the miners, and
their tools, also reach the Canadian portion of the Yukon district from
Juneau, in the United States, by way of the Dyea inlet, the mountain
passes and the chain of waterways leading therefrom to Cudahy. Upon none
of these importations had any duty been collected, except a Bum of
J,248.80 paid to Inspector Constantine in 1894 by the two companies
mentioned above, and it is safe to conclude, especially when it is
remembered that the country produces none of tlie articles consumed
within it except fresh meat, that a large revenue wis being lost to the
public exchequer under the then existing conditions.' (Extract from
report of Deputy Minister of Interior, 1895)
Dr. Dawson states that
the first white man who crossed from the coast to the headwaters of the
Lewes was one George Holt, who did some prospecting in 1878.
In 1880 a party of
nineteen men organized at Sitka, crossed the Chilkoot pass to Lake
Lindenian, and descended the Lewes to the mouth of the Hootalinqua,
which they descended for some distance.
In 1881 a party of four
miners crossed the Chilkoot pass and descended the Lewes as far as the
mouth of Big Salmon. This party ascended the Big Salmon, and found gold
in the river bars along the course of the stream.
In 1882 two prospecting
parties ascended the Pelly to Hoole canon.
In 1885 mining was
commenced on the Stewart river, and in 1886 the greater part of the
mining population was mining on this stream, as much as $100 a day being
made to the hand.
In 1886. Cassiarbar, 27
miles below Hootalinqua, was discovered, and actively worked the same
summer. In the same year coarse gold was discovered on the Fortymile
river, about 23]2 miles from its mouth and near to the boundary line. In
1887 it was estimated that about 250 miners were working in the Yukon,
200 being on Fortymile creek and 50 prospecting and mining on the upper
Yukon and its tributaries.
In 1887 an expedition
was organized by the government to explore that portion of the Northwest
Territories which was drained by the Yukon river. This expedition was
placed in charge of Dr. G. M. Dawson. To Mr. William Ogilvie was
assigned the work of conducting! instrumental measurements and
astronomical observations in connection with the determination of the
position of the first meridian which, by the Treaty of St. Petersburg,
is designated as the boundary line from the vicinity of .Mount St. Elias
to the Arctic ocean.
Dr. Dawson entered the
interior by the Stikine, Telegraph creek and Dease lake, which
practically the same route covered by Campbell in 1840, nearly fifty
years before. He ascended the Frances river and crossed Campbell's
portal to the headwaters of the Pelly, which he descended to Fort
Selkirk. He then ascended the Lewes, crossed the Chilcoot pass and
readied the coast at the head of Lynn canal. Dr. Dawson's report of his
exploration in 1887 throws a flood of light on the country through which
lie traversed, he gives an excellent description of the Pelly river and
its tributaries, and also a full description of the geological and
general features of the country.
In the same year Mr. R.
G. McConnell commenced at the continence of the Dease and Liard, and
made an extensive survey of the Mackenzie valley to Fort MacPherson.
McConell then crossed to the Porcupine, the course of which he followed
to its confluence with the Yukon, which he ascended to the site of old
Fort Selkirk.
Dr. Dawson, writing of
the geographical data obtained and the length of route travelled by
Messrs. Ogilvie and McConnell and himself, says: 'Mr. Ogilvie's
instrumentally measured line from the head of Lynn canal to the
intersection of the Yukon or Pelly by the 141st meridian, will form a
sufficiently accurate line for further surveys. In addition to this, we
now have an instrumental survey of the Stikine from its mouth to the
head of navigation (Telegraph creek), which is connected with Dease lake
by a carefully placed traverse. This is eon-tinned by a detailed running
or track survey following the lines of the Dease, Upper Liard and Pelly
rivers, and connecting with Mr. Ogilvie's line at the mouth of the
Lewes, the total distance from the mouth of the Stikine to this point,
by the route travelled, being about Oil miles. Adding to this the
distance from the mouth of the Lewes back to the coast at the head of
Lynn canal (377 miles) the entire distance travelled by us during the
exploration amounts to 1,322 miles.
Discovery of the
Klondike Gold Fields.
In 1894 Robert
Henderson and two other miners prospected the gravels at the mouth of
the Felly, where they rocked out $54.00 in fine gold. They came down to
the mouth of Indian river, which Henderson ascended alone, and
prospected on Quartz and Gold Bottom. Having found good prospects on
Gold Bottom, Henderson and a party of five returned to this creek in the
spring of 1S95, staked claims and commenced to work. During the summer
of 1S9G Henderson prospected on Gobi Bottom Creek, eventually made a
trip to Ladue's trading post at Ogilvie to obtain supplies, and
returning to Gold Bottom by way of the Klondike river, he came upon a
number of Indians fishing in the Yukon river at its confluence with the
Klondike. Living with the Indians was one George W. Carmack, whom
Henderson invited to stake on Gold Bottom. A few days afterwards Carmack
and two Indians arrived at Gold Bottom, and staked claims near to where
Henderson and his party were working. Returning across the divide by way
of Bonanza, Carmack and the two Indians did some prospecting, and found
rich prospects on what is now Discovery Claim on Bonanza creek. Carmack
staked Disc overy and No. 1 below; 'Charlie,1 an Indian, No. 2 Below,
and 'Tagish Jim' the other Indian, No. 1 above. Before loa\ing Gold
Bottom, Carmaek told Henderson that he would send an Indian to inform
him if rich prospects were discovered. Carmaek, however, did not fulfil
his promise, and he and the Indians at once proceeded to Fortymile,
which was the recording office at the time, and filed their applications
with Inspector Constantino. Cp to this time the majority of the miners
in the territory had been working on Fortymile, but as soon as the
discovery on Bonanza became known all the miners in the Fortymile
district stampeded to the new strike, and in a short time Bonanza creek
was staked from end to end. "Meantime Henderson and his party were
working on Gold Bottom, and did not hear of the new discovery until the
whole creek had been staked. Extensive prospecting at once commenced on
Bonanza and its tributaries, and in a short time many of the stakers
began to realize the marvellous wealth which their claims contained.
As soon as the news of
the rich strike reached the outside world, thousands of gold seekers
immediately started for the Klondike. Probably never before in the
history of gold mining camps has there been such a rush of people from
almost every vocation in life, as was seen in that irresistible stream
of fortune-seekers, who climbed the Chilkoot pass and pressed on to Lake
Lindeman, where the most rude boats and other flimsy craft were
constructed for the journey of 500 miles down the Yukon river to Dawson.
One of the saddest events in the history of this great stampede occurred
one morning on the trail between the summit of the Chilkoot pass and
Sheep Camp. For some distance between these two points the trail leads
along the bottom of a steep mountain, and a long line of gold hunters
were laboriously toiling along this stretch of the journey, some bearing
their heavy burden of supplies in packs and some on sleds, when suddenly
a huge mass of snow came sliding down the mountain side, striking the
line of travellers and burying between 50 and 60 men. Those who had
escaped the catastrophe at once commenced to dig for their comrades,
very few of whom were rescued, and some of the bodies were not found
until the snow melted in the spring. Such is an instance of the dangers
which confronted in the early days the thousands who had contracted the
gold fever, and who were unaware of the innumerable hardships to be
encountered on the journey to the new diggings.
In the spring of 1890
nearly all the creeks in the Klondike district had been staked; and in a
few years this remarkably rich district produced millions of dollars.
Though rich gravels were discovered on Gold Run, Hunker, Dominion and
Sulphur, and much gold has been and is being taken from those creeks,
yet no creek has been discovered that can be compared in richness with
Bonanza and its tributaries. Creek claim No. 10 Eldorado (a tributary of
Bonanza) containing an area of four acres, alone produced $1,500,000.
Creek claim No. 17 Eldorado, containing an area of 0 '4 acres, produced
$1,300,000. The richest gravels so far discovered in the district,
however, are gradually being worked out, and several large companies are
acquiring, under the placer mining law, large numbers of claims on the
different creeks, for the purpose of operating on a large scale by
dredges and the hydraulic process. |