| NO call sounded by the 
		pipes of this New Era is more insistent than that of the Canadian 
		Sea-coast. One sometimes wonders if Canadians as a whole even yet 
		realize the important gift bestowed, when Heaven, gave to Canada so 
		magnificent a coastline as that which the constant sword-play of land 
		and sea traces from Saint John, New Brunswick, to the 
		Newfoundland-Labrador Boundary? The man of Eastern Canada is "a study in 
		charts" worthy of basest attention. For it s here the Dominion rings up 
		the outside world. But to get the real 
		"lay of the land", the true spirit of its people, one must not be a 
		stay-at-home, a mere map-student only, but a follower of the Piper 
		leading by the longshore road through New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape 
		Breton, and Prince Edward Island. Canadians must be able to say, "these 
		are our Maritime Provinces", and say it with a pleasurable, personal, as 
		well as deep, national sense. And visitors from other lands must be able 
		to become personally possessive if they are to enjoy the life etched 
		quaintly enough of Grand Pre, of the Valley of the Gaspereau, of the 
		bonnie Hielands o' Cape Breton. One hardly sets foot in any part of this 
		long stretch, without being at once conscious that the sea invades all 
		the life of Bluenose land, that the marine spirit is here in a 
		beautiful, intimate sense, like the figurehead on a ship, both soul and 
		mascot of the "half-island". Sailing-vessels in 
		themselves, are genre crowding the Nova Scotia stage. Her earliest 
		discoverer came hither, over the sea, in the picturesque craft of a 
		Norse Dragon-ship. And the immediate chapters of her history, after 
		these half-shadowy voyages of the Norsemen, were written by Basque and 
		Breton fishboats and sail, drawn across the Atlantic Ocean in the wake 
		of Cod. Cod is still, more than 
		ever, King in Bluenoseland and bej'ond. Over all the vast stretch of the 
		Canadian "Maritime" his huge fleet holds sway. And what is so romantic 
		as a fleet-winged schooner speeding away under full sale on her voyage 
		to the Banks? Unless it be the one coming in, her decks almost awash, 
		with the full load? Oars and sails, and the tripping bows of the 
		Dragon-ships and Breton bateaux founded this long one of "Bankers" and 
		Dories--laid the foundation of Nova Scotia's talent for shipbuilding. 
		The "gift" which turned out the big square riggers from the Hantsport 
		and Parrsboro "ways" was a natural sequence of the maritime beginning of 
		this land, where thought turns so naturally to the sea, and to 
		sea-power. It was those wooden wind-jammers, wind-jammers with mere 
		boat-beginnings, which paved the way to the ocean-greyhounds which now 
		home true to Halifax and Saint John. Oh, the Maritimes is the life blood 
		of Nova Scotian and Newfoundlander. Halifax is the heart of 
		the Marine circulatory system. And serving Halifax with fish for 
		re-shipment, are 'enumerable little Havens and Outposts, all up and down 
		Saint Margaret's Bay, Spry Bay, the Gut of Canso, and along the vast 
		stretch reaching to Scuris, P.E.I., and Havre Aubert in Les Madeleiies. 
		And in each of these little Outports there is, of course, a family 
		behind every little "dory". The morning greeting among all these people 
		is not, "Good Day!" but, "How's Fish?" To these coastal families, 
		Halifax is not a mere cold city of business, but a "mother" to whom they 
		can turn with the catch, be it great or small, and ask bread. And so, in a morning 
		spent on the Halifax waterfront, the lifting fog reveals schooner after 
		schooner snugly riding against the old wet piers that artists love, or 
		idly floating into dock amid harbour reflections, weathered spars and 
		mildewed sails a-drip. Sometimes there is a clump of these schooners 
		hitched together, all discharging at the same time. So in a single 
		morning at a fish-receiving wharf here, we have chatted with skipper 
		from Newfoundland, skipper from the Madeleine Islands in the Gulf, and 
		skipper from. Prince Edward Island, and not moved from the one dock. Codfish overflows the 
		roofs n the final stages of the dr> ng, and lies upturned to the sun 
		almost under the shadow of city cathedrals. And here on the wharves is 
		an army of men and boys, the coopers and brine-mixers, moving about from 
		barrel to barrel of mackerel, mending leaks and otherwise putting them 
		in shape for trans-shipment; and over there, overflowing the basement of 
		some old warehouse, the half and whole drums, called-for by the cod 
		a-drying on the roof. Old scales are trundled back and forth to this 
		schooner and that, as the flying cod hurtles through the air, hurled by 
		some unseen hand at work in the hold of the "Nancy Ann", "The "Village 
		Leaf", or the schooner, "Passport." In sharp contrast to 
		the fish-schooners is the brig, brigantine, or barque, painted white, 
		with water-casks the last thing in paint and fancy designs on deck. She 
		is discharging hogsheads of molasses brought from Barbadoes or other of 
		the British West Indies. Molasses has played its part and commandeered 
		the sailing vessel of the Bluenose fleet from the earliest times. For in 
		the rationing of the sea-craft up and down the coast molasses was the 
		"sweetening"; and old-timers to this day prefer it to sugar. In addition to her 
		fishing industry and tale of ships, Nova Scotia enjoys a pastoral side 
		no less rich in genre. Farms are here. In following the highways and 
		little by-paths rambling among apple orchards and gardens, potato fields 
		and hay meadows —paths etched in Spring by the pink flush of 
		apple-blossoms, or in autumn by boughs curling to earth under weight of 
		rosy Baldwins or creamy Bellefleurs—one follows everywhere hard on the 
		heels of romance. It s her hand that beckons into every little cottage 
		snugly tucked away in valley and glen; where every grandmother sitting 
		carding. spinning, hooking rugs, knitting or reading her daily portion 
		of Scripture, can keep you entertained with tales and the recounting of 
		interesting happenings and not go outside the range of the half-dozen 
		houses which have been her little world for more than half a century. Along these roads and 
		about these inland homes, friendly old willows mingle atmospherically 
		with tall and stately Lombardy poplars. It is or. these uplands of Nova 
		Scotia one follows the old Post-reads—roads that recall the dashing 
		coach of other days and still cross rivers by old covered-bridges, and 
		preserve the quaint, rambling old houses that served as Inns where 
		passengers of old sought refreshment, or spent the night, while waiting 
		to make connections with the coach to this or that objective. Sitting clown by the 
		roadside to rest, some old-timer driving a spar of oxen and urging them 
		along with an apple-bough goad, s sure to come along and enter into 
		conversation in that happy way which s half the charm of adventuring by 
		Nova Scotia highways. This old farmer-carter well remembers Harry 
		Killcup, the Robin Hood Jehu of the Post-road from Annapolis Royal to 
		Halifax. He relates how Harry was talking to a girl and didn't pay 
		attention to his horses, and drove them too near the edge of the bridge 
		and they fell over, dragging the coach with them. "The river was in 
		flood, too, but Harry managed to get the girl clear of the wreckage, and 
		saved her, but the young man, with whom she travelled, was drowned." It 
		sounds like a movie stunt in the cold light of to-day, whereas, in fact, 
		it was Victorian realism and a typical incident of the dashing times of 
		'the chaise in which Sam Slick engaged a permanent seat in that other 
		"chaise of Canadian literature" by which Judge Haliburton eventually 
		established his name in Canada's Hall of Fame. The events live very 
		graphically before you as recited by this old eye-witness; who, with 
		many a "gee" and "whoa there", again starts his oxen on the way. To the period of the 
		Post Road belongs that old landmark of time and the road, Grand Pre 
		Church, outstanding figure of the countryside in which dwelt Evangeline 
		and her people. In order to catch its romantic spirit, the time to see 
		Grand Pre church is in the evening, when there is just a wee flare of 
		daylight and a soft mist arises from the waters of Minas, shedding 
		itself like a diaphanous veil over the land, as one strolls up the 
		country-road that comes through the village from the North, under 
		willows and poplars, to the door of the old church and then rambles off 
		to the South between clover fields and stacks of hay; the hay resembling 
		Hottentot villages outlined against the ashes-of-roses sky. It is at 
		dusk, that the rather austere lines of window, tower and roof lose their 
		sharp, almost Quaker-like severity. It is at that hour that the old 
		stones of the graveyard become time-softened, ivory-tinted pages of 
		history assembled under the stately poplars. Inside the church, in the 
		strong, simple lines of its painted box-pews and high pulpit; in the old 
		gallery; and in the square windows with little panes, there is the 
		quaint atmosphere which clings especially to old churches of the early 
		Colonial Period. Sitting in these old 
		pews during service is to be carried away on the wings of history to a 
		pivotal point, whence to behold a Cyclorama of all Canada. To the left, 
		on this great canvas—Glooscap and Micmac; succeeded by crude Breton and 
		Portuguese fishermen in their strange bateaux; followed by stirring 
		panels of Annapolis Royal and Louisburg, contrasted against panels of 
		tenacious pioneer Scotch and English settlers; in the next, the clash 
		between France and England for supremacy, not alone in this sweet 
		countryside of Grand Pre, but in every other contained in the word 
		Canada. These are followed by a panel of united empire royalists—very 
		realistic this, because, in the village, you have just been looking at 
		an old oil-painting of Colonel Crane and fingering his fine old sword, 
		that never wavered in its allegiance. The other half of the 
		Cycle, begins the New Order. First, a symbolic figure of the stream of 
		emigration flowing through the Maritime Gate to the great Canadian West, 
		followed by prairie scenes and mountain peaks, mining scenes, cattle 
		scenes, tawny grain, and Trans-Canada trains, sisters of "Glooscap", and 
		"The Flying Bluenose". That, is Grand Pre Church—a link between the Past 
		and the Present. |