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To simply rush through the North-West
Territories in a railway carriage, as the train speeds on its way to
the Rocky Mountains, not only becomes monotonous after a time, but
is unsatisfactory to the inquiring mind in more ways than one. If a
traveller wishes to form any accurate idea of the progress of the
country, and of the people settled there, it is absolutely necessary
to get a team and drive away from the railway. This enables one to
see both the farms and the farmers, and to gain reliable information
of the manner in which the country is being developed. At many
places two or three days can be profitably spent in that fashion,
and it is a charming variety to railway travelling, comfortable and
convenient though the latter may be. This letter and the following
ono will describe briefly a three days’ trip from Regina.
Starting from Regina one afternoon in
September, we made, in the first place, for the Indian Reserve known
as “Muscow-petungs,” situated in the Qu’Appello Valley, about 30
miles north-east of the capital. For the first half of the journey
the country, which slopes gradually to the north, is slightly
undulating prairie, and is fairly settled, farmhouses being always
in sight from the trail. The settlers consist chiefly of persons
from the Old Country, with a sprinkling of Germans and
Scandinavians. For the rest of the journey, the land is covered with
small bush, from 10 to 15 feet high, consisting chiefly of scrub oak
and poplar, the undergrowth being composed largely of wild flowers
and fruits. This portion of the district of Assiniboia is much more
undulating than that nearer Regina, and we came across a few farms
in very picturesque locations. The land is fairly good, there is an
abundance of wood, and plenty of shelter, the last-named being no
unimportant matter in view of the winds that are common on the
prairie. Most of the settlers were complaining of the drought, in
consequence of which their crops were not so good as they might have
been. Still, a Canadian farmer is not easily discouraged, and always
looks forward to the next year as likely to be more prosperous than
the previous one. Of course, his expenses, in any case, are not very
great. He has no rent to pay; taxes are light, even if any have to
be paid at all in out-of-the-way districts; he can raise almost all
his requirements on his farm; and, if he is careful, there is no
need for him to run seriously into debt, even in a bad year.
We arrived late in the evening at
the Reserve, and, although quite unexpected, were hospitably
received, entertained, and put up for the night, by the Agent, who
has passed many years in the service of the Indian Department, and
is thoroughly acquainted with everything pertaining to the red man.
After supper we had a long and interesting talk with our friend in
regard to Indian affairs, as to the advance the red man is making in
the ways of civilisation, and the future of the race. This problem
will, however, more properly form the subject of a special letter
later on. There are three tribes attached to the Agency we visited—Muscow-petung’s,
already mentioned, “Pie-a-Pot’s,” and “Pasquah’s.” The names given
are those of the head chiefs of the tribes. All the reserves are
located in the Qu’Appelle Valley, and on some of the finest land in
the country. We visited all the tribes, but very few of the Indians
were “at home,” nearly all of them, as well as the women and
children, being away gathering hay, having contracted for the supply
required by the North-West Mounted Police. We met several of them
taking the hay into Regina as we drove out, and it is interesting to
know, on the authority of the Commandant of the Police, that the
best hay they get is that obtained from the Indians. In the reserve
of which we aro writing, the Indians are nearly self-supporting, and
earn almost enough money to keep themselves, requiring very little
assistance from the Government either in the way of food or
clothing. It is needless to say that this is the object of the
policy of the Government, but it follows necessarily that its
success depends a good deal upon the tact and judgment of the Agents
placed in charge of the Indians, who are in many cases like a lot of
children. Many of the Indians have purchased agricultural machinery,
chiefly mowers, rakes and carts, on their own account, and also own
the ponies and cattle they use in their work.
In the summer the Indians much
prefer to live in their tents, which are now made of canvas, instead
of hide, as was the case when the buffalo was plentiful. In winter
most of them take up their quarters in small wooden huts which they
have erected. The buildings are primitive, both in their structure
and accommodation, but in some of them attempts at decoration have
been made in the way of wall-papers of florid designs. The furniture
is also exceedingly rough, even in eases where it is found at all,
but in every one of the huts useful stoves are placed, for heating
and cooking purposes. In the summer all the huts are fastened up and
deserted for the tents: indeed, many of the Indians prefer the
latter in winter, although the cold is sometimes intense. While it
may be stated generally that the Indians have progressed in many
ways, they certainly do not seem to appreciate the merits of
cleanliness, and it may be that this circumstance has much to do
with their preference for the tent over other forms of residences.
The tent can be readily moved when the small live stock becomes too
abundant, which is not the case with a more substantial structure!
After leaving the Reserve, we drove
along the valley in the direction of Fort Qu’Appelle, an old Hudson
Bay post, but now a small settlement, in which stores of various
kinds may be found, as well as two or three hotels, livery stables,
flour mills, and other industrial establishments. The scenery on
this drive of about 20 miles is of a very picturesque description.
The valley is about 200 feet below the level of the prairie, and
varies from one mile to two miles in width. The cliffs, if they may
be so termed, on either side of the valley, take very curious forms
and shapes, and it is rather odd that the side with the northern
exposure is covered with small bush, while the northern side of the
valley, with a southern exposure, is quite bare of trees of any
kind. Settlers’ houses are seen all along the road, and cattle
grazing is the principal vocation of the farmers. In addition,
however, to their work, they are able to obtain any amount of
shooting and fishing, and they seem to indulge largely in sport—no
doubt chiefly for the purpose of food. The Qu’Appello Valley was
formerly a very favourable district with immigrants, and most of the
free-grant land is probably now appropriated. We stayed tho night at
the Indian Industrial School, about two miles cast from Fort
Qu’Appello—thanks to the kindness of the Rev. Father Hugonnard, who
has charge of the institution. |
