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Next morning early our four-horse team
was ready, and we started off on our drive from Wetaskiwin to
Edmonton. The country is very much of the same character as that we
passed through the day before, but not so well settled. Still, we
were never out of sight of houses, and we mot several immigrants,
with their waggons and outfit, prospecting for land. There are many
rivers and lakes on the way, and any amount of sport can be obtained
by those who wish for it, and almost everybody does, as ducks,
chickens, and rabbits are agreeable varieties in the way of food to
bacon and pork and canned incats. We stopped at midday to rest our
horses, and to have lunch, but the place had better, perhaps, not be
named, for reasons which will be understood after an interview which
we had with a settler is recounted. While the horses were having a
rest we wandered off along the shore of a neighbouring lake to see
if we could get a few ducks. In the course of our wanderings through
the bush (the land in the neighbourhood of the place is well
timbered) we met a settler on his way to a well for water. He
appeared to be a gentlemanly young fellow, and stated subsequently
that his case was like a number of others. He was of good family,
but, when his father died, the money left was not sufficient to keep
the family going, and they all had to turn out and do for
themselves. This young man had made his way to the North-West; and
we went to look over his domain. The house he had put up himself. It
was small, and fairly clean for bachelor quarters, but he told us he
was beginning to feel tho loneliness of his life. His farm gave one
the impression that he thought rather more of his loneliness than of
work, for only a few acres were under cultivation. We had to part,
however, at last, and, after having said good-bye two or three
times, which rather gave one the impression that he had not said all
that he wanted to say, as we were strolling leisurely down the hill
he burst out with something of this kind:—“I say, when you get back
to England, I wish you would do me a good turn. If you hear of any
lady who is tired of single blessedness, and would like to come out
here, I wish you would put me in communication with her. I am not
particular about age or about looks, and more important than either
would be the possession of a little money.”
Early in the afternoon we arrived at
South Edmonton, so named because it is on the south side of the
river Saskatchewan. This is comparatively a new place, and must not
be confounded with the old Edmonton, which is on the north side of
the river. The Saskatchewan at this place is about 250 feet below
the level of the road, and the cliffs are rather precipitous.
Consequently, the descent in a four-in-hand, especially after the
weather has been at all wet, is quite a performance in its way, only
equalled by the ascent on the other side, after having ferried
across the rapid stream. However, we managed the trip in safety; but
several times in the course of our long drives we felt that the
places through which we went in a four-horse team would have
startled many members of the Four-in-hand or Coaching Clubs.
Edmonton was formerly a Hudson Bay Post, but for many years has been
an important settlement, notwithstanding its distance from the main
line of the Canadian Pacific Railway. In the last few years,
especially since it has had railway communication, it has developed
immensely, and bids fair to become an important place. There is
considerable rivalry between it and South Edmonton, and no doubt the
difficulty of crossing the river may prove an advantage to the
latter place. It is not surprising, therefore, that Edmonton is
moving heaven and earth to get a bridge across the river, and
possibly this may be arranged in time, although there are
engineering difficulties in the way.
The Edmonton district is admirably
adapted for general agriculture and dairying, with good soil, a fine
climate, and a prospect of fair markets, especially in British
Columbia. It has the advantage also of plenty of coal, which crops
out on the river banks quite near the town, is easily mined, and is
sold at a very low price. Then gold is found on the bars or benches
on the river bottom, and the industry is followed by a good many
men, yielding from $2 to $5 per day or more. The town is really a
lively sort of place, considering everything. The shops or stores
are good of their kind and numerous, and they seem to do a fair
business. The streets are wide, and tho roads are all right in fine
weather. Most of the buildings are of wood, but they look fairly
substantial, and there are many very pretty residences in tho
neighbourhood. We were fortunate in meeting Inspector Snyder, of the
North-West Mounted Police. We learnt a great deal about the
neighbouring country from him, and were enabled through his courtesy
and assistance to see very much more of it than would otherwise have
been possible. In fact, we spent three or four days very pleasantly
in driving north, east, and west of the town, interviewing farmers,
and seeing the country and its possibilities. But a description of
these days may be left for a further letter. |
