The country in the neighbourhood of
Edmonton, within a radius of 30 or 40 miles from the town, has
become fairly well settled within the last three or four years, the
result, of course, of the extension of railway facilities. On the
day after our arrival at Edmonton we drove out about 25 miles,
through St. Albert, going by the Western road and returning by the
Eastern road, which gave us an opportunity of travelling over an
extensive area of the prairie. St. Albert is about 10 miles from
Edmonton, and quite a flourishing little settlement exists there,
having grown up about the conventual establishment and schools which
are attached to the Palace of the local Roman Catholic prelate,
Bishop Grandin, a man known and respected throughout the North-West
Territories. It was surprising to us to see how the country had
settled up in such a comparatively short time, and not easy to
believe that the comfortable-looking farms, excellent fences, and
comparatively well-used trails, had all sprung into existence since
1890. In fact, the district looks much older than many parts of
Manitoba, and even of Ontario, that have long had the benefit of
railway communication. The
drive from Edmonton through St. Albert took us in a north-westerly
direction, but on the following day we wont almost due north, our
particular object being to visit the Indian Reserve at Stoney
Plain—a drive out and home of about 30 miles. On this road there is
not so much settlement, owing partly to a large stretch of the
country being reserved for the Indians. For a few miles, however,
out of Edmonton, and until we reached the boundary of the Reserve,
settlers’ houses were frequently visible, patches of ploughed land
were crossed, and cattle and horses and other evidences of the
settler were seen. On our arrival at the Reserve we were hospitably
welcomed by the resident Agent, Mr. De Cazes. The buildings of the
Agency occupy a picturesque position on rather high ground, by the
side of a pretty lake, on which large numbers of wild fowl were
disporting themselves when we arrived. Although our visit was rather
late in the season, and the garden was not at its best, we saw
enough to convince the most sceptical of the fertility of the soil
and the salubrity of the climate. There were still some turnips and
cabbages in the ground, and on measuring three of tho former they
wore found to be 24 inches, 32 inches, and 34 inches respectively;
while a cabbage, which would not be cut for some weeks, had a
circumference at that time of 45 inches—that is, round the heart
alone, leaving the outside out of consiiteration. Potatoes and
onions and other roots and vegetables were large in proportion and
prolific in yield, and it is interesting to know that all the work
in the garden is done by the Indians. The red men in this Agency,
known as the Lapotac Reserve, seem to be in a very flourishing
condition: most of them live in comfortable and substantial houses,
which they have been stimulated to erect by the tact and judgment of
the Agent. They also do some cultivation, own quite a number of
cattle, horses and implements, and are practically self supporting.
They are also making considerable progress from an industrial point
of view, and were beginning to make cloth and other woollen goods—a
fact very creditable to Mr. De Cazes. At certain times of the year
many of the band go away hunting in the Northern country, and often
manage to make a good deal of money by the furs they sell.
Altogether, the Indians seem to be very happy and contented, and we
saw several of them driving home from church soon after our arrival,
from which it will be gathered that our visit was made on a Sunday.
We drove back to Edmonton in the cool of the evening, and are not
likely soon to forget the glorious colouring that was everywhere to
be seen. The foliage was beginning to change, and showed a variety
of colour; part of the sky was of various hues, from blue to violet;
while the setting sun threw a golden haze over everything. The
rabbits were out feeding in thousands; and we also saw two or three
wolves, which, however, were of the prairie type—the coyote—and ran
away at our approach.
On the following day we visited Fort Saskatchewan, the headquarters
of the North-West Mounted Police in the district. It is situated
about 12 miles from Edmonton, on the banks of the river, and, in
order to see as much of the country as possible, on our outward
journey we skirted the north bank, crossing at the fort, returning
by the south bank through what is known as the Clover Bar district.
Here again we found plenty of evidences of settlement and progress,
which confirmed what we had seen previously in other parts of the
district— that is, the suitability of the Edmonton country for
farming operations of all kinds. We were not surprised, therefore,
at the enthusiasm displayed everywhere by the farmers, and were also
able to understand how it was that the British tenant-farmer
delegates who visited the country in 1893 became so enamoured of
this part of Alberta.
While at Edmonton, we had the
pleasure of a conversation with Father Lacombe, one of the noble
band of clergymen which have passed the best parts of their lives in
the North-West in endeavouring to civilise the Indians and to bring
the blessings of religion into their lives. Father Lacombe has been
in the country for the last thirty or forty years, long before it
was transferred to the Dominion—in fact, when he first went there,
it was the happy hunting ground of the Indian, and both small and
large game were plentiful, the buffaloes roaming over the prairies
at that time in millions. In the early days he had many adventures
among the Indians, being present at several battles between the
different tribes; and, if- he would, he could tell many an exciting
story of hairbreadth escapes in his endeavours to promote peace
among them. It is to be hoped that some day Father Lacombe will
publish his reminiscences. It would surely be a most exciting and
interesting book, for he probably knows more of the Red Man than
anyone living, His influence with the Indians has long been great,
and there can be no doubt that the Government owe much gratitude to
the reverend father, for it was largely owing to his exertions that
the powerful tribes of the Bloods and the Blackfeet kept aloof from
the Riel troubles of 1885.
Our return journey by train to
Calgary was comparatively uneventful, but we had the opportunity of
conversations with many American farmers and others who had been
visiting the Edmonton country, with the view of making it their home
later on. One and all, they seemed to be pleased with what they had
seen, and no doubt their satisfactory reports will lead to
considerable accession of population in the coming spring. |