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In order to reach Victoria, tho
capital of British Columbia, from Vancouver, it is necessary to
undertake a short sea voyage of about 84 miles, the run generally
occupying about five hours. Although the route is practically
land-locked—and it may be mentioned by the way that the scenery is
very beautiful—the passage can be a fairly rough one, as many of the
passengers on the little top-heavy boat which made a voyage in
October last (1894) experienced. The vessel at times rolled and
pitched in rather an alarming way, and there were not many
passengers who felt inclined to enjoy the motion on one or other of
the decks. However, Victoria was at last reached, and a very
English-like place it is. Its streets and shops are full of life,
and the suburbs are very pretty, and if it is not as solid looking
as Vancouver, it has other charms of its own, which the mainland
city cannot emulate. Victoria has a population of about 20,000, and
dates its growth from the gold craze which was rife in British
Columbia between 30 and 40 years ago. It has the advantage of being
near Esquimault, the headquarters of the Pacific Squadron of Her
Majesty’s Navy, and bluejackets are consequently frequently seen in
the streets. There is also a considerable Chinese quarter, which is
both interesting and instructive, and very dirty, but it is a place
to which all visitors go out of curiosity. Chinese and Japanese
curios, and textiles of all descriptions, are on sale, but probably
better stocks can be seen in Regent Street, and at prices rather
lower than the Heathen Chinee is apt to ask, although he is by no
means accustomed to get what he demands at a first interview.
The fortifications at Esquimault are
being much strengthened, and in the near future it will be a very
strong place. The Canadian Government is providing the money
necessary for the earthworks, while the Imperial Government provides
the armaments. Considerable secrecy is being observed as to the
works that are in progress, and no one is permitted on the ground
without a special order from the officer in command.
It is stated that a Russian Prince,
who recently arrived in the country, strolled out very early one
morning with a Russian officer, ostensibly for a walk. Perhaps it
was not altogether by chance that he found himself in the
neighbourhood of Esquimault, but, in any case, he had not gone very
far before he was pulled up by a sentry, and was prevented from
inspecting the fortifications—which was probably the object of his
peregrinations.
Considerable jealousy exists
between Victoria and Vancouver. You must never expect a Victorian to
say anything good of Vancouver, or vice versa; but surely there is
room enough for two cities like Vancouver and Victoria in British
Columbia. Vancouver Island is as large as Great Britain; it has
extensive coal measures, abundance of timber, as well as much
mineral wealth. A good deal of the land, when cleared, will be
available for agriculture, and will grow anything that a temperate
climate will produce. It is probable, therefore, that in tho future
Victoria will greatly develop. It will never, perhaps, be as
important as Vancouver, in view of the fact that the latter is the
terminus of the railway, a great shipping port, and tho possible
landing place of the Pacific cable, and bearing in mind also the
development of the mineral resources of the mainland which must take
place in the near future, and for which Vancouver is the natural
source of supply.
There are many walks and drives in
the neighbourhood of Victoria, and wherever you go charming views of
the Sound, and of the islands which are scattered over it, are to be
seen, while the magnificent snowy peak of Mount Baker is always
visible. Both Victoria and Vancouver have good public parks. The
former is known as Beacon Hill Park, and is very prettily arranged,
but of course it cannot compare with the Stanley Park of Vancouver,
which is practically a piece of the primeval forest. The principal
drive is round the park on the seashore, and is nine miles long. The
trees are very large, and the foliage of the undergrowth most
brilliant. On a fine day the drive is something to be remembered.
While we were in British Columbia
agricultural shows were very frequent, and it gave us an opportunity
of forming an idea of what the country could produce. We visited
shows at Victoria, as well as at New Westminster, and there were
also some smaller gatherings in the interior. An agricultural show
in Canada is not confined to agriculture—in fact, it is a general
exhibition, and includes everything. The object is, of course, to
give a holiday to the people of the neighbourhood, and the
attendance is always pretty numerous, especially when horse racing
forms a part of the proceedings, which is generally the case. From
an agricultural point of view, the exhibits were excellent,
especially so far as regards fruit and vegetables. Apples, pears,
plums, grapes, and all the other fruits, were of largo size and most
excellent in appearance, and the same remarks apply also to the
vegetables. Fine specimens 'A hops were also on show, and the other
exhibits, while not perhaps directly connected with agriculture,
gave an excellent idea of the energy and industry of the exhibitors. |
