I found amongst my fellow passengers a great many
Canadians who were returning from a round of gaieties connected with the
Coronation of King George V and Queen Mary.
There is no difficulty in distinguishing Canadians from
tourists or intending settlers, for even though they may have been only
a short time in Canada, they seem at once to acquire a great affection
for their adopted home, and would soon enlighten one as to their
nationality, if it were doubted, especially if one spoke of them, or to
them, as Americans for instance, a Canadian on board, in the course of
conversation, said to me “I can’t think why the people in England will
insist on calling me an American; I told them 'I am not an American! I
am a Canadian!” although he certainly gave me the impression of being an
American; later on I found that he had been in Alberta only four years
and that his parents still lived in Chicago, which had been his home.
An officer of the Canadian Artillery (Militia) said to
one of his men, who bore an unpronounceable name: "I hear you are a
Russian?” "No, sir, I’m not! I am a Canadian, from Halifax!" "Oh,”
replied the officer, “I was told that you came from Moscow, and that
your father was an officer in the Imperial Army there!” "Ah! If you ask
me where my native place is, certainly, Russia, but I’m not a Russian,
I'm a Canadian, a properly naturalized Canadian!” And this man had
translated his name from “Femcapapfor” to "Esther,” as being easier to
pronounce, and as near the meaning of his own name as he could possibly
get in English. I have no doubt that the change was made to make him
appear of true Canadian nationality, although to the French Canadian of
Nova Scotia, many of whom are unable to speak English, his accent would
sound strange and foreign, particularly as Mr Femcapapfor himself spoke
ten different languages.
We also had on board a party of Boy Scouts, bound for
home after a real good time in England, and some of the Canadian
riflemen who had been over for the National Rifle Association Meeting at
Bisley, very proud that their comrade Clifford had won, and was taking
the King’s Cup with him to Canada.
The majority, however, were journeying to the Dominion
for the first time; women going out to marry lovers who had preceded
them; or settlers seeking a new home in the land of promise.
Having in mind the tales one hears as to the
unpreparedness of the average settler, and the unsuitable way in which
he clothes himself, I was astonished to see how well and fittingly
dressed they were for their long journey and the life before them.
Families of four or five, including babies in arms, one infant being as
young as two months old, all were carefully tended and looked after. I
wondered how these mothers had been able to manage during the first two
days, when freedom from sickness was exceptional. I was condoling with
one mother, and found that she had had no trouble; children were ill
only just a very short time, she said, and supposed it was because they
were too young to think about themselves. I felt I should like to know
exactly how far a Christian Scientist would have been ill in the same
circumstances; the two ideas seemed remarkably similar, and a comparison
would have been interesting.
Altogether we were a motley crowd. elderly folk and
maidens, young men and children, Britishers, Americans. Canadians,
& Japanese.
A lady on board, wearing the braided coat of an officer,
is called the "matron of the ship," and gives special attention and help
to young girls going out alone; she advises them, and often puts them in
the way of obtaining situations, and gives them letters of introduction
to people in the towns to which they have booked.
Our commander is exceedingly courteous and kind, but our
intercourse with him is very limited. He lives almost entirely in his
very comfortable quarters on the bridge deck, and is not often seen
about the ship.
Concerning clothes; there is very little need for
dressing; one may go in to luncheon and even dinner in ordinary deck
clothes, only at a concert, or on some special occasion, does a smart
high frock or blouse appear. It is good to find that comfort is the
first consideration, and one need take but very little for a voyage like
this, but very warm wraps are an absolute necessity.
When we left England we were wearing the thinnest of
clothes; two days after we were in heavy wraps, warm headgear and rugs;
on the third day it was very cold, as we were nearing the region of
icebergs and there was a slight fog, for fog seems inseparable from
icebergs.
As for entertainment, there is always something to be
seen or done. To-day we have seen whales and the sporting of shoals of
porpoises; to-night a concert is to be held in the second-class saloon,
tor which the Scouts sell programmes and make themselves generally
useful; on the third deck the passengers have been amusing themselves
with games, and have ended by dancing to the strains of a concertina.
The games are interesting and amusing, deck billiards being, usually,
the favourite; then the Scouts have to be paraded, and the ship’s staff
inspected daily, when each person must be at his respective, post.
The concerts given in the evenings were sources of much
pleasure, and one could not but remark how, during these concerts,
everything connected with Canada, whether in the songs or speeches, was
applauded; the Scouts' national songs especially so. To such an extent
was this carried, that, as an Englishwoman, I felt a little bit "out of
it”; however, after the Scouts had sung their own chorus and the ”Maple
Leaf,” they finished up with our grand old National Anthem, and all was
well again.
I must say I was impressed when I heard them sing the
“Maple Leaf,” very seriously and heartily,
God Save Our King, and Heaven Bless the Maple Leaf for
Ever.
In talking to some of these Canadian youths afterwards, I
found them intensely loyal, so loyal as would astonish most English
people, who are, I fear, more inclined to apathy in such matters.
These jolly Boy Scouts have had the time of their lives,
and are getting very excited now that they are nearing home. There are
only about forty of them here on board, the chief body having returned
much earlier. These few, left behind by the main body, have been taken
all over England, have been to Ireland, Scotland, and even to the Isle
of Man; every moment of their time has been so variously occupied that,
I fear, it has been almost too much for them to have remembered half
they have seen and heard; they have fared right royally.
It is quite a fair walk round the ship’s deck, up one
side and back the other, the “Royal Edward” being 540 feet from bow to
stern. I believe that she and her sister ship, the "Royal George,” were
built for the Mediterranean service, and it was intended that only
first-class passengers should be carried; this explains the very
splendid state-rooms, which, except for position, are much the same
throughout the ship; there are also special suites of rooms, consisting
of bed, sitting, and bath rooms.
I am told that the company are building ships on similar
lines to supplement the service of these boats, which, for comfort,
attendance, and a good table, are second to none. Many passengers
compared the "Royal" with other better known lines, usually not to the
advantage of the latter. These boats, besides a general overhauling, had
to have one deck taken away before a voyage was made across the
Atlantic.
This voyage seems particularly short to those, who, like
myself, love the sea, for the journey across, from Bristol to Belle
Isle, takes but four days, then one day in the Gulf of St Lawrence, and
two days up the river, past Quebec to Montreal, sees us at our
destination.
It is curious to a person to find that each day lengthens
by forty-eight minutes, so that watches have to be corrected to that
extent every day. I have no doubt that, later on, this will be
simplified, and that perhaps the time, as now in France, will be
Greenwich time everywhere.
I hear that, to those who are going on the railway
journey out West, time is scheduled in the time-tables from one to
twenty-four hours; thus, eleven-thirty o’clock p.m. would be
twenty-three thirty o’clock.
Sunday is our first really beautiful day, the sun is
quite hot, the sea calm and of the deepest blue. It is worth enduring
two or more days of sea-sickness to enjoy such a day as this, and one
wishes that the voyage could continue indefinitely.
Divine service was held this morning in the "First”
saloon, and was read by the ship’s doctor, Dr Evans. The service was
simple and impressive, the singing very good, and the unthought of risks
of sea-travel were brought to our minds by the special prayer to the
Almighty to “Protect this ship, and all in it, from the danger of the
elements.”
Later, in the afternoon, a service conducted by a
Salvation Army official was held on the “third” deck, and to it, I
should think, every one came. It was all very primitive, and the dear
old familiar hymns, “Nearer to Thee,” “Lead Kindly Light,” and “There is
a Green Hill,” were sung unaccompanied, but with a fervour and
heartiness that brought tears to the eyes of many.
As an epilogue to the service, Canadians told their
experiences of earlier days, and bade those seeking a home in the new
land, take good heart, for, with perseverance and "gut," they would not
fail to secure a bright future for themselves and their loved ones.
We passed our sister ship, about sixty miles away, this
morning, and communication was made by “wireless.”
Any news that is at all interesting is put on the notice
board, and it is wonderful what a variety of news reached us.
The notice board is quite a centre of interest, for here
are all announcements of sports, concerts, articles lost or found, and
even notice of a baby show.
We were ahead of the scheduled time by several hours, and
were expecting to pass Belle Isle and Newfoundland on the following day,
when great excitement was caused by the sighting of an iceberg, probably
twelve or fifteen miles away. Field glasses are at once in use, and,
through them, the berg looks like a huge white ship, very high out of
the water, hawing three distinct pinnacles glistening white in the sun.
This was followed by another, this time a little nearer;
it was judged to be about a quarter of a mile in length, and locked just
a solid, square block of ice.
Later, we again got into a group of icebergs, dotted
about; some were of the most fantastic shape, and of varying size. They
are well known to be a source of danger to shipping, particularly when
they have melted down nearly to the water’s level, for there is still
the huge water-logged mass under water; we all but struck one of them at
about 3 a.m., but our engines were promptly reversed, and we escaped. I
fortunately managed to secure some fairly good photographs of several of
the bergs we passed.
Since writing the above, the terrible tragedy of
the Titanic proves how dangerous these icebergs are.
I was told that one of these large ice bergs was sighted
not long since, with three bears upon it tramping round and round; poor
beasts, they were no doubt finally starved to death.
When these ice blocks are first separated from the ice
fields, they are three parts underwater to one part above; later, when
they get thoroughly waterlogged the ratio increases, and they become
seven times deeper under water then they are above it.
One must needs feel compassion for the man in the "crow’s
nest,” a look-out, high up on the front mast. When he sees anything he
rings a bell to call the captain’s attention to whatever it may be. It
must be bitterly cold aloft in the “crow’s nest” in this region of
icebergs and fog-bank, for even below, on deck, plenty of warm wraps are
an imperative necessity. |