The Royal Mail Service,
like time and tide, waits for no man, and will brook no interference
with its ordained movements. No matter whether the round is along city
pavements, across sweltering deserts, through cavernous forests, over
frozen snow bound wastes, or by miasmic swamps, if the fiat has gore
forth that letters are to be delivered to, and collected from, the spot
beyond, the mail service must be maintained at all hazards. He who
enlists in the service, and undertakes to get the bag of correspondence
through, must be prepared to face any contingency; to surmount any
obstacle. The postman must complete his round.
It is one of the
outstanding features of British colonization or settlement and
developing work, that those engaged in pioneering shall not be denied
the postal privileges of civilization. The delivery and collection may
be erratic from causes over which man has no possible control, but the
frontier town accepts the inevitable without a murmur. Directly a little
settlement springs up in the remote wilderness the threads of the postal
service of the country are rewoven, so as to bring the new arrival
within the meshes of the net by mean3 of which letters are swung to and
fro.
Within the purlieus of
the city the postman's round is humdrum, but in the “rural districts,”
as the wilds are euphemistically called in official parlance monotony
gives way to romance and adventure. The round may be one of 200 miles
from end to end; its completion out and home may mean three weeks’ hard
travelling, over a trail which is scarcely recognizable, by any type of
vehicle that may be available, from a raft to horse’s back, and when
transport fails them “Shank’s pony” becomes the only alternative. The
elements may conspire together to defeat the most carefully laid plains
of the authorities and the grim determination of the man on the round—
but he must get through. It may rain as if presaging a second Deluge:
the forest fire may smoke every trace of animal life out of the bush,
converting the country into a scorching inferno; the blizzard may rage
in frigid fury, sucking the life out of all that comes within its rimy
embrace, blotting out the trail beneath a white blanket several feet in
thickness; the rivers may swell and bar the path with a frenzied rush of
white bubbling froth— but the mails, must go on.
It comes as a shock to
the city dweller with the postal service running like a clockwork
machine to strike the conditions which prevail in the wilderness. A
shack, decrepit and tumbling, which would be passed in disdain because
appearance tends to show that it has long since come of age, compels
earnest attention, for there, over the rhomboid shaped doorway are the
magic letters “G. R. Post Office.” Along the trail a slouching figure is
seen mushing with mechanical tread. He is a sorry-looking piece of
humanity when espied in the distance, and with his bag slung over his
shoulder, gives the impression of being a hobo who has struck a rich
vein of bad luck. You give him a cold hail, and the figure answers back
just as monosyllabically and freezingly. As he approaches you are
prompted to hold him up for conversation, but the stranger presses on,
answering questions as he proceeds; and then, as he swings his arm round
you catch sight of the badge “Mailman.” If the country happens to be so
far advanced as to boast a crude frontier road, ever and anon you may
hear the jangle of bells, and a light buggy comes reeling along at a
breezy pace. As the driver lurches by he gives you a nod, but never the
offer of a lift. He has His Majesty's mails aboard, and the bag of
letters is of far greater importance than a hundred pounds or so of
human flesh. Or, perhaps, you have hit the stage coach, as the
tumbling-to-pieces aggregation of rough wood slung on four wheels
without the intermediary of springs, is called. The chances are that: it
is packed to creaking point, with baggage and passengers, but there is
only one bag aboard which occupies the mind of the driver. This is under
his dickey, and he sits on it tightly to make doubly sure of its safety,
because it is the property of the Postmaster-General.
I met one of these
frontier postmen one day on his lonely “rural” round. The trail led
through a swiftly running creek, not very deep, because it could be
forded without one getting wet higher than the thighs, but tricky
because the boulders forming its bed were always about. The postman had
forded this creek safely times without number, but on this particular
occasion he fouled a large, slippery boulder, and before he realized
what had happened, he bad measured his length in the water, while the
mail-bag went careering downstream. With great difficulty he recovered
his charge, and when I came across him, he was seated before a roaring
fire, which he had kindled, drying his precious letters one by one. Some
two or three days later he crawled into the camp where I was staying,
and as he tendered the misives apologetically, explained what had
happened. The boys laughed heartily as they tore their respective
letters open, and although some fearful ejaculations were muttered as
frantic endeavour unravelled the pages stuck together, there was not the
slightest complaint. They thought themselves mighty lucky to have got
their letters at all under the circumstances; a vivid contrast to the
habitual growler in the city, who is ready to send a sour pago complaint
to the authorities because a letter happens to be delayed half a day
through inadvertence. In the wilderness it is far better that a message
from home should be delivered in a semi-mashed-potato state than not at
all.
At times it is a mighty
hard struggle to get the mail through. We struck one waggon road, and
were held up completely by the devastation wrought by a bush fire. For
half a mile the highway was littered with the trunks of huge trees,
which had crashed to the ground because the flames had undermined their
roots. While we were pondering upon the situation, the mailman in his
buggy came up. lie was not perturbed. He looked at the healthy maze of
trees, and then at his axe. A few seconds’ reflection convinced him that
it would lake him days to clear his way through, so he backed his buggy
into the bush, detached his mount, pulled out the bag of mails, hitched
them on the back of his animal, and shouldering the reins, trudged into
the scrub, following an Indian trail. It was a wide detour, but it led
right round the burnt area for a distance of fifteen miles, to the next
station, which he completed on foot, arriving at his destination about
six hours late. That was all the inconverience the bush fire had caused.
He spent the night at the post, made his collection-performed once every
three weeks--shouldered his bag, and tramped back to the spot where the
buggy had been abandoned temporarily. Once more his horse was harnessed
up, and with a whittle and a “git up,” he started off on the homeward
jaunt, as if bush fires and burnt fall were the very last obstructions
encountered on his journey.
There are plenty of
openings for those who wish to serve His Majesty the King in the humble
role of postmen through the “rural” districts. Periodically
advertisements are issued, calling for men and tenders for the delivery
and collection of letters over a certain distance. The scale of pay
varies. In some cases it will run to £10 per month; in others a higher
rate of wages prevails. It all depends upon the country to be served and
the difficult nature of the task.
For instance, in New
British Columbia I found that the postman started off from Quesnel with
his vehicle bound for Fraser Lake, following the frontier road, and
completing from twenty to thirty miles a day, the night being spent at
the stations of the Yukon Telegraph. The Telegraph cabins serve as
post-offices where stamps may be purchased, letters posted, and parcels
handed in. On the other Land, the Skena River was the highway for postal
communication so far as Hazleton, whence the mails were sent so far
south as Bulkley Cabin, a distance of about 100 miles. For points
between Bulkley on the one, and Fraser Lake on the other side, the
postman had to make a big cross-country jaunt from Bella Coola, a small
cove on the Pacific coast, and consequently the Telegraph cabin at Burns
Lake, which is mid-way between Bulkley and Fraser Lake, was in an
isolated position, and the mails were infrequent—but sure. I posted a
letter home at Bums Lake, while making the North-West Passage by land,
and then pushed on towards the Skeera River. I arrived home about eight
weeks after I left this cabin, and the letter I had posted followed me a
week later—but it reached its destination safely and soundly.
The authorities make a
point that all people engaged in pushing back the veil of the unknown
shall be supplied with a mail service. Accordingly, the very uttermost
camps of those engaged in railway surveying and construction receive
letters as close to a regular schedule as is humanly possible. The
letters are sent forward by train to the railhead. Here they are picked
up by the post-master of the end-of-steel town, and by him handed over
to the postman. The latter starts off on his trudge from camp to camp,
strung out over a distance of 150 miles. The general day’s round is
about twenty miles from one resident engineer's camp to another. He will
breakfast about seven at one camp, start out, reach the next in time for
the midday meal, and pushing on, stop in the succeeding camp for supper.
He will put up for the night at this point, hitting the trail again
about seven the following morning. He is well tended, receives
first-class meals, and a good shake down for the night, these
requirements being supplied free of cost, so that his £10 or thereabouts
is clear, unencumbered pocket money. On the outward jaunt he drops
letters only, collecting correspondence on his return trip.
The scene on the latter
occasion at a camp where the postman is pausing for meals is a busy one.
Every member of the community will be found writing as for dear life, so
as to complete his letter in time, because the postman makes no delays.
He discusses his meal and packs his bag at once, because he knows just
how long it is going to take him to reach the next camp in time for the
evening meal.
I encountered one or
two experiences of this adherence to system, even in the bush. The
engineer at one camp had not completed a report which he was anxious to
mail to headquarters. The postman had started off at his stated hour,
but the engineer, to catch the mail, had paddled a horse and ridden full
tear after the walking mailman, had handed over his letter, and
returned, making a twenty-mile ride. In another case an Indian was
pressed into service. The postman had about four hours’ start. But the
Indian, springing on to his cayouse, as he calls his pony, had sped off
under the incentive of a 5-dollai bill, if he caught the mailman. At
every constructional camp the Indian jerked out the query: “Mailman
gone?” Receiving an acquiescent grunt, he asked: “How long!” The
information forthcoming, the Red rider dug his spurs into the flanks of
his steed, clattered forward over deadfall, and crashed through creeks
as if the going were as easy as galloping over a green sward. But he
caught the mailman in the middle of his supper, handed over the letter,
hastily swallowed a meal himself, and then, jumping astride his mount,
tore off into the waning day, to notify the fact that the letter was
safely mailed, and to pick up his hard earned 5-dollar bill.
The postman, as a rule,
under these conditions, follows the best route open to him. He is not
supplied with any conveyance, so has to walk from point to point
shedding or accumulating his load as he plods through cutting, over
embankment, across swamp, slipping and sliding among boulders, fording
creeks, and braving rushing rivers as best he can.
The mailman’s lot is
facilitated so far as the conditions will admit. If he is forced to
proceed afoot, his load comprises first-class mail only—that is,
letter-packets. Newspaper's, books, and parcels are sent along at
irregular intervals. If a freighting team happens to be going in the
direction of certain camps, and has room aboard for a consignment of
heavier mail-matter, it takes it, but no delivery is guaranteed. Postal
packets, apart from letters, are regarded more in the light of luxuries;
it is the letter which receives such unremitting care, and for the safe
conveyance of which much hardship and toil are suffered. Of course, when
a frontier road, with rivers and creeks spanned by bridges, are open,
then the wheeled vehicle which is pressed into service carries all kinds
and descriptions of mail matter, the contract between the individual and
the Government being drawn up to this end. Even then the undertaking
only holds good throughout the summer months, when wheeled-traffic is
possible. In the winter different arrangements prevail, book packets and
parcels being held up five months or so in some cases.
On the waterways, so
far as possible, the mail is handled by the shallow draft steamboats,
which proceed up and down, the passing vessels being hailed by the
mailman through the intermediary of a flag. Even boats which are not
scheduled to stop at certain points for passengers or freight will halt
momentarily to pick up the mail.
Winter demands the
reorganization of facilities and methods for handling the mail, and this
is the period when the task of the authorities is beset with innumerable
perils and dangers. The rivers being frozen almost into solid blocks of
ice, navigation is out of the question. Delivery on foot is equally
impracticable. On the frontier road it may be possible to maintain a
service with horse-drawn sleds, when all descriptions of postal packets
may be handled with ease, but otherwise there is only one possible means
of keeping the service going—by dog trains.
The Government
concludes arrangements with private individuals who are in the
possession of well-equipped vehicles of this description, and the man is
left absolutely to his own devices to complete his undertaking. Rut it
is rough and exciting work. A train of huskies can handle a weight of
200 pounds, but this available weight has to be divided between the
mail-load and the requirements for the man upon his journev. As may be
supposed, nothing but letter packets are handled under these conditions.
While sometimes a single man will set out with his precious load, the
train more often comprises a party of three, each having a team and
train, and with the mail divided between the three sleds, while a fourth
man will go ahead on his snow-shoes to pick up the trail. This method is
preferable, because often the mailmen encounter obstructions or get into
such tight corners that extrication is only possible by combined
superhuman exertion, and would be quite beyond a mailman travelling
alone.
The dogs are powerful
brutes, lithe and active, and able to keep going, when the emergency
arises, upon the most slender fare. Their stamina is wonderful, equalled
possibly only by their ferocity, which occasionally finds an outlet when
the brutes rise in rebellion. Then lively times are witnessed. The
murderous whip is the only means whereby they can be made tractable once
more, but the process of subjugating their tempera is one of
considerable exertion on the part of the mailman. One of the boys who
ran one of these trains on the outskirts of Ontario for three successive
winters, concluded that he had the most unruly and vicious huskies that
ever were harnessed to a sled. When they got into their stride, they ate
up the miles one after the other in fine record-breaking form, but the
great trouble was to get them to start. Every morning there was a row.
First they started fighting among themselves, letting pandemonium loose
in the heart of the wilderness. The mailman’s usual procedure was to
jump among them with his whip, letting it out right and left
indiscriminately in a determined endeavour to separate the brutes. Ten
minutes exercise of this weapon generally brought about the desired
result. Then came the difficulty of harnessing them up. One and all were
sullen, snarling, and evil-looking. The mailman had to keep both his
eyes and ears open, with whip handy to let fly at the slightest sign of
attack. They watched him to and fro like a coyote stalking the trail,
and he recognized that it was only the fear of the whip which kept them
submissive. The safer practice was for one man to harness up and pack
the sleighs, while the other stood by vigilantly watching the animals
with whip upraised, ready to bring the steel-like thong down with enough
force to cut through a brute’s back-bone.
Another mailman, who
ran the mail by dog train in the Yukon country, related how every
morning there was a tussle between him and the dogs. He had a long pull
of about 300 miles with his train, and sometimes went accompanied and
sometimes alone. Under the latter conditions the brutes thought they had
the upper hand— at least, they fought desperately to gain it. When they
were called to be harnessed up, they point-black refused to stir a
muscle. Even the threat of the whip did not provoke a blink. Every dog
in the team had to be lashed and thrashed before he would submit to
harnessing, and then when the whole train was ready they had to be given
another liberal dose of whip-lash before they would move. When they got
going there was no holding them in, and in favourable weather he was
hard put to it to keep up with them. Those huskies’ interpretation of
the word “kindness” was a sound thrashing of five minutes’ duration, by
the end of which time both animals and man were somewhat distressed.
As may be supposed, the
mail, being consigned to such a tender vehicle as a dog sleigh, and
having to be carried under such adverse conditions, suffers severely
from the ordeal at times. When a dog train gets into its stride, and the
snow has packed hard, it makes a good, healthy pace; but the heavy
carpet of snow conceals dangers untold, and the sled is not built to
withstand too prolonged or heavy a game of battledore and shuttlecock.
It bounces and lurches from side to side, although the mailman tries
valiantly to keep it steady. If it strikes a tree stump smartly it
shoots oft like an arrow shot from a bow glancing off at the most
unexpected angle, often to pull up against another stump on the opposite
side of the narrow pathway. Now and again the sled will give a shoot
into the air, and come down with a healthy crash to hit a tree stump a
fair end-on smashing blow. When 200 pounds is moving at the velocity of
four or six miles an hour and hits an immovable mass, something happens,
and it is not the tree which suffers; then the animals have to be
hitched up while the sled is beirg repaired as best the conveniences at
hand will permit.
Occasionally, as a
result of a collision, the contents get scattered to the four winds. One
of the boys related an experience which befell him during the previous
winter. He had an average load aboard, and had a clear 100 miles run in
front of Mm. The snow was hard, giving a surface like an asphalt
roadway, and the train was making fine time. He calculated that he would
pull into the shack serving as the night camping-place in excellent
time, and be able to get a good rest, which had been denied him for some
nights previously, owing to the thick heavy weather which had rendered
the going slow and arduous. They were sailing along, and he was humming
merrily at the prospect, when suddenly there was a crash, a lurch, the
sleigh flew into the air like a rocket, he measured his length on the
snow, and ploughed along for about three yards on his head. He picked
himself up and found himself being wreathed in what he thought were the
biggest snowflakes he had ever seen in his life; the sleigh had cannoned
a hidden obstruction with healthy force, had leaped into the air, and In
so doing the mail bag had been ripped up by a murderous snag. What he
thought were snowflakes were the letters from the bag! They were
scattered all round him like leaves.
“Three hours that smash
cost me,” he growled, as he related the episode. He hitched up the dogs
and then went very carefully over the ground searching for letters.
Some were caught in the
scrub, others were impaled on snags, while others were blown twenty feet
or more from the point of the smash. Fortunately the weather held up,
and there was very little wind, otherwise, as he significantly muttered,
“I guess some of the stiffs would be still wondering where their letters
had gone astray.” In his own mind, however, he did not think that a
single missive was lost.
More unfortunate was
the result of another accident. The mailmen reached camp dead beat from
battling with a fierce blizzard for over ten hours. It had been
exhausting work getting the dog train along that day, and even the
animals bore signs of the fight with the elements. The men fed the dogs,
piled up a huge fire, prepared their supper, and before it was completed
they fell asleep. When they woke in the morning they sat, up, looked
round for the laden sleighs, and then rubbed their eyes. The vehicles
were nowhere to be seen! They could not have been stolen in the night,
since the dogs would have given the alarm. What had happened? They
jumped hastily to their feet and rushed to the place where the sleds had
been stacked. The truth was soon told. Being dead-tired they had not
noticed that the vehicles and their precious freight had been left
standing near the fire. The flames being fanned that way by the wind
first had scorched and then had consumed them. Not a letter was left,
only small heaps of ashes, some charred leather, and a few screws and
nails!
Another dog train mail
had a very narrow escape. The party were cutting across a frozen river.
The ice appeared safe enough, for there was not a smirch on the white
covering. The train was about halfway across when the dogs in the front
vehicle gave a loud, frenzied yelp and jumped madly forward; they were
up to their girths in water. The mailman on snowshoes let out with his
whip, and the whole safely cleared the hidden danger; but the following
sleighs did not fare so well. They crashed into the hole left by the
first vehicle, and the dogs were soon swimming madly for their lives, in
danger of being dragged down by the laden vehicles. The mailmen grabbed
the sleighs, and smartly whipping out their jack-knives cut the
mail-bags loose, throwing them clear of the hole, and hacked the traces
in twain to give the dogs a chance. One man slipped through the ice, but
shooting out his arms kept his head above water and was pulled out
shivering with the cold. Two sleighs were lost, but the dogs and mails
were saved. The party, in crossing the frozen river, had stumbled upon
an unseen crack in the ice, and but for the presence of mind of the
mailmen a nasty accident would have had to be chronicled. All they lost
was two sleds, a greater part of their outfit, and half of their
provisions. Regaining the bank they hastily improvised a sled and pushed
ahead. Fortunately they were only about thirty miles from their
destination when the accident occurred.
One of the hardest
stretches of country over which the mails have to be handled at present
in Canada is the winter pull from the inland terminus of the Yukon and
White Pass Railway to Dawson City. During the summer months the waterway
is the channel along which the Royal Mail flows to and fro, but in the
winter, when the Yukon River is gripped in ice, the mails have to be
sent overland. And over what a road! In the summer the mails could not
go that way even if there were no other available because pack animals
would sink to their girths in a slime more tenacious than glue; because
the road traverses wicked muskeg and tundra for practically the whole
distance between the two points. Subterranean springs innumerable, the
thawed snow, and the melting glaciers transform the whole ground into a
kind of soddened sponge, where horses cannot get a foothold, and where
wheels slip out of sight.
When the ground is
frozen hard and is covered with snow, the surface offered for the sleigh
is excellent, but now and again everything is thrown sixes and sevens by
a warm spell which catches the passing traffic at a heavy disadvantage.
Also the grades are fierce, ranging from 1 in 5 to 1 in 10. So heavy is
the travelling that the sleighs carrying the mails have to be drawn by
six horses, and these have to be changed every twenty-two miles, three
relays being made in the course of a single day’s travelling lasting
about twelve hours. The road is well defined so far as this task is
practicable in such a country, though at times it is wiped out of
existence by playful antics of Nature, and it costs the Government a
neat little sum every year to keep it open. At intervals of every twenty
miles there are convenient shacks— memories of the “blood-freezing days
of ’96” when the North-West Mounted Police were keeping law and order,
so far as Canada was concerned, in the Klondyke.
This stretch of mail
road is considered to be about the worst in the whole Dominion.
Certainly it would be difficult to find one more arduous and
exasperating. When first opened, dog trains sufficed to meet the
situation, but the traffic during the winter between the two posts
developed to such a degree that to-day only horses can cope with it. One
is able to mail a letter from London to the Klondyke for a penny, but
every missive must be carried at a dead loss between Whitehorse and
Dawson, owing to the demands upon twenty-four horses, and with hay at
£20 per ton!
The mailman’s life is
decidedly varied and exciting, but apparently there appears to be no
difficulty in getting an adequate supply of right men for the work. It
certainly constitutes a means of earning a respectable living in Canada,
and one which has many decided attractions for men of the true British
temperament. |