Queen of the West!—upon
thy rocky throne,
In solitary grandeur sternly placed
In awful majesty thou sitt’st alone,
By Nature’s master-hand supremely graced.
The world has not thy counterpart—thy dower,
Eternal beauty, strength, and mationless power.
The clouds enfold thee in their misty vest,
The lightning glances harmless round thy brow;
The loud-voiced thunder cannot shake thy nest,
Or warring waves that idly chafe below;
The storm above—the waters at thy feet—
May rage and foam, they but secure thy seat.
The mighty river, as it onward rushes
To pour its floods in ocean’s dread abyss,
Checks at thy feet its fierce impetuous gushes,
And gently fawns thy rocky base to kiss.
Stem eagle of the crag! thy hold should be
The mountain home of heaven-born liberty!
True to themselves, thy children may defy
The power and malice of a world combined;
While Britain’s flag, beneath thy deep blue sky,
Spreads its rich folds and wantons in the wind;
The offsprings of her glorious race of old
May rest securely in their mountain hold.
ON the 5th of
September, the anchor was weighed, and we bade a long farewell to Grosse
Isle. As our vessel struck into mid-channel, I cast a last lingering
look at the beautiful shores we were leaving. Cradled in the arms of the
St. Lawrence, and basking in the bright rays of the morning sun, the
island and its sister group looked like a second Eden just emerged from
the waters of chaos. With what joy could I have spent the rest of the
fall in exploring the romantic features of that enchanting scene ! But
our bark spread her white wings to the favouring breeze, and the fairy
vision gradually receded from my sight, to remain forever on the tablets
of memory.
The day was warm, and
the cloudless heavens of that peculiar azure tint which gives to the
Canadian skies and waters a brilliancy unknown in more favoured
latitudes. The air was pure and elastic, the sun shone out in uncommon
splendour, lighting up the changing woods with a rich mellow colouring,
composed of a thousand brilliant and vivid dyes. The mighty river rolled
flashing and sparkling onward, impelled by a strong breeze, that tipped
its short rolling surges with a crest of snowy foam.
Had there been no other
object of interest in the landscape than this' majestic river, its vast
magnitude, and the depth and clearness of its waters, and its great
importance to the colony, would have been sufficient to have riveted the
attention, and claimed the admiration of every thinking mind.
Never shall I forget
that short voyage from Grosse Isle to Quebec. I love to recall, after
the lapse of so many years, every object that awoke in my breast
emotions of astonishment and delight. What wonderful combinations of
beauty, and grandeur, and power, at every winding of that noble river.
How the mind expands with the sublimity of the spectacle, and soars
upward in gratitude and adoration to the Author of all being, to thank
Him for having made this lower world so wondrously fair—a living temple,
heaven-arched, and capable of receiving the homage of all worshippers.
Every perception of my
mind became absorbed into the one sense of seeing, when, upon rounding
Point Levi, we cast anchor before Quebec. What a scene!—Can the world
produce such another? Edinburgh had been the beau to me of all that was
beautiful in Nature—a vision of the northern Highlands had haunted my
dreams across the Atlantic; but all these past recollections faded
before the 'present of Quebec.
Nature has lavished all
her grandest elements to form this astonishing panorama. There frowns
the cloud-capped mountain, and below, the cataract foams and thunders;
wood, and rock, and river combined to lend their aid in making the
picture perfect, and worthy of its Divine.
The precipitous bank
upon which the city lies piled, reflected in the still deep waters at
its base, greatly enhances the romantic beauty of the situation. The
mellow and serene glow of the autumnal day harmonised so perfectly with
the solemn grandeur of the scene around me, and sank so silently and
deeply into my soul, that my spirit fell prostrate before it, and I
melted involuntary; into tears. Yes, regardless of the eager crowds
around me, I leant upon the side of the vessel and cried like a
child—rot tears of sorrow, but a gush from the heart of pure and
unalloyed delight. I heard not the many voices murmuring in my ears—I
saw not the anxious beings that thronged our narrow deck—my soul at that
moment was alone with God. The shadow of His glory rested visibly on the
stupendous objects that composed that magnificent scene; words are
perfectly inadequate to describe the impression it made upon my mind—the
emotions it produced. The only homage I was capable of offering at such
a shrine was tears—tears the most heartfelt and sincere that ever flowed
from human eyes.
I never before felt so
overpowering my own insignificance, and the boundless might and majesty
of the Eternal.
Canadians, rejoice in
your beautiful city! Rejoice and be worthy of her—for few, very few, of
the sons of men can point to such a spot as Quebec—and exclaim, “She is
ours!—God gave her to us in her beauty and strength!—We will live for
her glory—we will die to defend her liberty and rights—to raise her
majestic brow high above the nations!”
Look at the situation
of Quebec!—the city founded on the rock that proudly holds the height of
the hill. The queen sitting enthroned above the waters, that curb their
swiftness and their strength to kiss her lovely feet.
Canadians!—as long as
you remain true to yourselves and her, what foreign invader could ever
dare to plant a 1 hostile flag upon that rock-defended height, or set
his foot upon a fortress rendered impregnablo by the hand of Nature?
United in friendship, loyalty, and love, what wonders may you not
achieve? to what an enormous altitude of wealth and importance may you
not arrive? Look at the St. Lawrence, that king of streams, that great
artery flowing from the heart of the world, through the length and
breadth of the land, carrying wealth and fertility in its course, and
transporting from town to town along its beautiful shores the riches and
produce of a thousand distant climes. What elements of future greatness
and prosperity encircle you on every side! Never yield up these solid
advantages to become an humble dependent on the great republic—wait
patiently, loyally, lovingly, upon the illustrious parent from whom you
sprang, and by whom you have been fostered into life and political
importance; in the fulness of time she will proclaim your childhood
past, and bid you stand up in your own strength, a free Canadian people!
British mothers of
Canadian sons!—learn to feel for their country the same enthusiasm which
fills your hearts when thinking of the glory of your own. Teach them to
love Canada—to look upon her as the first, the happiest, the most
independent country in the world! Exhort them to be worthy of her—to
have faith in her present prosperity, in he / future greatness, and to
devote all their talents, when they themselves are men, to accomplish
this noble object. Make your children proud of the land of their birth,
the land which has given them bread—the land in which you have found an
altar and a home; do this, and you will soon come to lament your
separation from the mother country, and the loss of those luxuries which
you could not, in honour to yourself, enjoy; you will soon learn to love
Canada as I now love it, who once viewed it with hatred so intense that
I longed, to die, that death might effectually separate us for ever.
But, oh! beware of
drawing disparaging contrasts between the colony and its illustrious
parent. All such comparisons are cruel and unjust;—you cannot exalt the
one at the expense of the other without committing an act of treason
against both.
But I have wandered
away from my subject into the regions of thought, and must again descend
to common work-a-day realities.
The pleasure we
experienced upon our first glance at Quebec was greatly damped by the
sad conviction that the cholera-plague raged within her walls, while the
almost ceaseless tolling of bells proclaimed a mournful tale of woe and
death. Scarcely a person visited the vessel who was not in black, or who
spoke not in tones of subdued grief. They advised us not to go on shore
if wc valued our lives, as strangers most commonly fell the first
victims to this fatal malady. This was to me a severe disappointment,
who felt an intense desire to climb to the crown of the rock, and survey
the noble landscape at my feet. I yielded at last to the wishes of my
husband, who did not himself resist the temptation in his own person,
and endeavoured to content myself with the means of enjoyment placed
within my reach. My eyes were never tired of wandering over the scene
before me. '
It is curious to
observe how differently the objects which call forth intense admiration
in some minds will affect others. The Scotch dragoon, Mackenzie, seeing
me look long, and intently at the distant Falls of Montmorency, drily
observed,
“It may be a’ vera
fine; but it looks na’ better to my thinken than banks o’ white woo’
hung out o’er the bushes.”
“Weel,” cried another,
“thae fa’s are just bonnie; ’tis a braw land, nae doubt; but no’ just so
braw as auld Scotland.” “Hout, man! hauld your clavers, we shall a’ be
lairds here,” said a third; “and ye maun wait a muckle time before they
wad think aucht of you at liame.”
I was not a little
amused at the extravagant expectations entertained by some of our
steerage passengers. The sight of the Canadian shores had changed them
into persons of great consequence. The poorest and the worst-dressed,
the least-deserving and the most repulsive in mind and morals, exhibited
most disgusting traits of self importance. Vanity and presumption seemed
to possess them altogether. They talked loudly of the rank and wealth of
their connexions at home, and lamented the great sacrifices they had
made in order to join brothers and cousins who had foolishly settled in
this beggarly wooden country.
Girls, who were
scarcely able to wash a floor decently, talked of service with contempt,
unless tempted to change their resolution by the offer of twelve dollars
a month. To endeavour to undeceive them was a useless and ungracious
task. After having tried it with several without success, I left it to
time and bitter experience to restore them to their sober senses. In
spite of the remonstrances of the captain, and the dread of the cholera,
they all rushed on shore to inspect the land of Goshen, and to endeavour
to realize their absurd anticipations.
We were favoured, a few
minutes after our arrival, with another visit from the health-officers;
but in this instance both the gentlemen were Canadians. Grave,
melancholy-looking men, who talked much and ominously of the prevailing
disorder, and the impossibility of strangers escaping from its fearful
ravages. This was not very consoling, and served to depress the cheerful
tone of mind which, after all, is one of the best antidotes against this
awful scourge. The cabin seemed to lighten, and the air to circulate
more freely, after the departure of these professional ravens. The
captain, as if by instinct, took an additional glass of grog, to shake
off the sepulchral gloom their presence had inspired.
The visit of the
doctors was followed by that of two of the officials of the
Customs;—vulgar, illiterate men, who, seating themselves at the cabin
table, with a familiar nod to the captain, and a blank stare at us,
commenced the following dialogue:—
Custom-house officer
(after making inquiries as to the general cargo of the vessel):—“Any
good brandy on board, captain?’
Captain (gruffly):
“Yes.”
Officer: “Best remedy
for the cholera known. The only one the doctors can depend upon.”
Captain (taking the
hint): “Gentlemen, I’ll send you up a dozen bottles this afternoon.’’
Officer: “Oh, thank
you. We are sure to get it genuine from you. Any Edinburgh ale in your
freight?”
Captain (with a slight
shrug): “A few hundreds in cases. I’ll send you a dozen with the
brandy.”
Both: “Capital!”
First officer: “Any
short, large-bowled, Scotch pipes, with metallic lids?”
Captain (quite
impatiently): “Yes, yes; I’ll send you some to smoke, with the
brandy.—What else?”
Officer: “We will now
proceed to business.”
My readers would have
laughed, as I did, could they have seen how doggedly the old man shook
his fist after these worthies as they left the vessel. “Scoundrels!” he
muttered to himself; and then turning to me, “They rob us in this
barefaced manner, and we dare not resist or complain, for fear of the
trouble they can put us to. If I had those villains at sea, I’d give
them a taste of brandy and ale that they would not relish.”
The day wore away, and
the lengthened shadows of the mountains fell upon the waters, when the
Horsley Hill, a large three-masted vessel from Waterford, that we had
left at the quarantine station, cast anchor a little above us. She was
quickly boarded by the health-officers, and ordered round to take up her
station below the castle. To accomplish this object she hud to heave her
anchor; when lo! a great pine-tree, which had been sunk In the river,
became entangled in the chains. Uproarious was the mirth to which the
incident gave rise among the crowds that thronged the decks of the many
vessels then at anchor in the river. Speaking trumpets resounded on
every side; and my readers may be assured that the sea-serpent was not
forgotten in the multitude of jokes which followed.
Laughter resounded on
all sides; and in the midst of the noise and confusion, the captain of
the Horsley Hill hoisted his colours downwards, as if making signals of
distress, a mistake which provoked renewed and long continued mirth.
I laughed until my
sides ached ; little thinking how the Horsley Hill would pay us off for
our mistimed hilarity.
Towards night, most of
the steerage passengers returned, greatly dissatisfied with their first
visit to the city, which they declared to be a Hithy hole, that looked a
great deal better from the ship’s side than it did on shore. This, I
have often been told, is literally the case. Here, as elsewhere, man has
marred the magnificent creation of his Maker.
A dark and starless
night closed in, accompanied by cold winds and drizzling rain. We seemed
to have made a sudden leap from the torrid to the frigid zone. Two hours
before, my light summer clothing was almost insupportable, and now a
heavy and well-lined plaid formed but an inefficient screen from the
inclemency of the weather. After watching for some time the singular
effect produced by the lights in the town reflected in the water, and
weary with a long day of anticipation and excitement, I made up my mind
to leave the deck and retire to rest. I had just settled down my baby in
her berth, when the vessel struck, with a sudden crash that sent a
shiver through her whole frame. Alarmed, but not aware of the real
danger that hung over us, I groped my way to the cabin, and thence
ascended to the deck.
Hero a scene of
confusion prevailed that baffles description. By some strange fatality,
the Horsley Hill had changed her position, and run foul of us in the
dark. The Anne was a small brig, and her unlucky neighbour a heavy
three-masted vessel, with three hundred Irish emigrants on board; and as
her bowsprit was directly across the bows of the Anne, and she anchored,
and unable to fix herself from the deadly embrace, there was no small
danger of the poor brig going down in the unequal struggle.
Unable to comprehend
what was going on, I raised my head above the companion ladder, just at
the critical moment when the vessels were grappled together. The shrieks
of the women, the shouts and oaths of the men, and the barking of the
dogs in either ship, aided the dense darkness of the night in producing
a most awful and stunning effect.
“What is the matter?” I
gasped out. “What is the reason of this dreadful confusion?’
The captain was raging
like a chafed bull, in the grasp of several frantic women, who were
clinging, shrieking, to his knees.
With great difficulty I
persuaded the women to accompany me below. The mate hurried off with the
cabin light upon the deck, and we were left in total darkness to await
the result.
A deep, strange silence
fell upon my heart. It was not exactly fear, but a sort of nerving of my
spirit to meet the worst. The cowardly behaviour of my companions
inspired me with courage. 1 was ashamed of their pusillanimity and want
of faith in the Divine Providence. I sat down, and calmly begged them to
follow my example.
An old woman, called
Williamson, a sad reprobate, in attempting to do so, set her foot within
the fender, which the captain had converted into a repository for empty
glass bottles; the smash that ensued was echoed by a shriek from the
whole party.
“God guide us!" cried
the ancient dame; “but we are going into eternity. I shall be lost; my
sins are more in number than the hairs of my head.” This confession was
followed by oaths and imprecations too blasphemous to repeat.
Shocked and disgusted
at her profanity, I bade her pray, and not waste tho few moments that
might be hers in using oaths and bad language.
“Did you not hear the
crash?” said she.
“I did; it was of your
own making. Sit down and be quiet.”
Here followed another
shock, the vessel heave and tremble; and the dragging of the anchor
increased the uneasy motion which began to fill the boldest of us with
alarm.
“Mrs. Moodie, we are
lost,” said Margaret Williamson, the youngest grand daughter of the old
woman, a pretty girl, who had been the hello of the ship, flinging
herself on her knees before me, and grasping both my hands in hers. “Oh,
pray for me! pray for me! I cannot, I dare not pray for myself. I was
never taught a prayer.’ Her voice was choked with convulsive sobs, and
scalding tears fell in torrents from her eyes over my hands. I never
witnessed such an agony of despair. Before I could say one word to
comfort her, another shock seemed to lift the vessel upwards. I felt my
own blood run cold, expecting instantly to go down; and thoughts of
death, and the unknown eternity at our feet, flitted vaguely through my
mind.
“If we stay here, we
shall perish" cried the girl, springing to her feet. “Let us go on deck,
mother, and take our chance with the rest.”
“Stay,” I said; "you
are safer here. British sailors never leave women to perish. You have
fathers, husbands, brothers on board, who will rot forget you. I be such
you to remain patiently here until the danger is past.” I might as well
have preached to the winds. The headstrong creatures would no longer be
controlled. They rushed simultaneously upon deck, juntas the Horsley
Hill swung off, carrying with her part of the outer frame of our deck
and the larger portion of our stern. When tranquillity was restored,
fatigued both in mind and body, I sunk into a profound sleep, and did
not wake until the sun had risen high above the wave-encircled fortress
of Quebec.
The stormy clouds had
all dispersed during the night; the air was clear and balmy; the giant
hills were robed in a blue, soft mist, which rolled around them in
fleecy volumes. As the beams of the sun penetrated their shadowy folds,
they gradually drew up like a curtain, and dissolved like wreaths of
smoke into the clear air.
The moment I came on
deck, my old friend Oscar greeted me with his usual joyous bark, and,
with the sagacity peculiar to his species, proceeded to shew me all the
damage done to the vessel during the night. It was laughable to watch
the motions of the poor brute, as he ran from place to place, stopping
before, or jumping upon, every fractured portion of the deck, and
barking out his indignation at the ruinous condition in which he found
his marine home. Oscar had made eleven voyages in the Anne, and had
twice saved the life of the captain. He was an ugly specimen of the
Scotch terrier, and greatly resembled a bundle of old rope-yarn; but a
more faithful or attached creature I never saw. The captain was not a
little jealous of Oscar’s friendship for me. I was the only person the
dog had ever deigned to notice, and his master regarded it as an act of
treason on the part of his four-footed favorite. When my arms were tired
with nursing, I had only to lay my baby on my cloak on deck, and tell
Oscar to watch her, and the good dog would lie down by her, and suffer
her to tangle his long curls in her little hands, and pull his tail and
ears in the most approved baby fashion, without offering the least
opposition; but if any one dared to approach his charge, he was alive on
the instant, placing his paws over the child, and growling furiously. He
would have been a bold man who had approached the child to do her an
injury. Oscar is the best plaything, and as sure a protector as Katie
had.
Daring the day, many of
our passengers took their departure; tired of the close confinement of
the ship, and the long voyage, they were too impatient to remain on
board until we reached Montreal. The mechanics obtained instant
employment, and the girls, who were old enough to work, procured
situations as servants in the city. Before night, our numbers were
greatly reduced. The old dragoon and his family, two Scotch fiddlers of
the name of Duncan, a Highlander called Tam Grant and his wife and
little son, and our own party, were all that remained of the seventy-two
passengers that left the Port of Leith in the brig Anne.
In spite of the earnest
entreaties of his young wife, the said Tam Grant, who was the most
mercurial fellow in the world, would insist upon going on shore to see
all the lions of the place. “Ah, Tam! Tam! ye will die o’ the cholera,”
cried the weeping Maggie Thy heart will brak if ye dinna bide wi
me an the bairnie.” Tam was deaf as Ailsa Craig. Regardless of tears and
entreaties, he jumped into the boat, like a wilful man as he was, and my
husband went with him. Fortunately for me, the latter returned safe to
the vessel, in time to proceed with her to Montreal, in tow of the noble
steamer, British America; but Tam, the volatile Tam was missing. During
the reign of the cholera, what at another time would have appeared but a
trifling incident, was now invested with doubt and terror. The distress
of the poor wife knew no bounds. I think I see her now, as I saw her
then, sitting upon the floor of the deck, her head buried between her
kness, rocking herself to and fro, and weeping in the utter abandonment
of her grief. “He is dead! he is dead! My dear, dear Tam! The pestilence
has seized upon him; and I and the puir bairn are left alone in the
strange land.” All attempts at consolation were useless; she obstinately
refused to listen to probabilities, or to be comforted. All through the
night I heard her deep and bitter sobs, and the oft-repeated name of him
that she had lost.
The sun was sinking
over the plague-stricken city, gilding the changing woods and mountain
peaks with ruddy light; the river mirrored back the gorgeous sky, and
moved in billows of liquid gold; the very air seemed lighted up with
heavenly fires, and sparkled with myriads of luminous particles, as I
gazed my last upon that beautiful scene.
The tow-line was now
attached from our ship to the British America, and in company with two
other vessels, we followed fast in her foaming wake. Day lingered on the
horizon just long enough to enable me to examine, with deep interest,
the rocky heights of Abraham, the scene of our immortal Wolfe’s victory
and death; and when the twilight faded into night, the moon arose in
solemn beauty, and cast mysterious gleams upon the strange stern
landscape. The wide river, flowing rapidly between its rugged banks,
rolled in inky blackness beneath the overshadowing crags ; while the
waves in midchannel flashed along in dazzling light, rendered more
intense by the surrounding darkness. In this luminous track the huge
steamer glided majestically forward, flinging showers of red earth-stars
from the funnel into the clear air, and looking like some fiery demon of
the night enveloped in smoke and flame.
The lofty groves of
pine frowned down in hearse-like gloom upon the mighty river, and the
deep stillness of the night, broken alone by its hoarse wailings, filled
my mind with sad forebodings,—alas! too prophetic of the future. Keenly,
for the first time, I felt that I was a stranger in a strange land; my
heart yearned intensely for my absent home. Home! the word had ceased to
belong to my present—it was doomed to live for ever in the past; for
what emigrant ever regarded the country of his exile as his home? To the
land he has left, that name belongs for ever, and in no instance does he
bestow it upon another. “I have got a letter from home!” “I have seen a
friend from home!” I dreamt last night that I was at home!” are
expressions of every day occurrence, to prove that the heart
acknowledges no other home than the land of its birth.
From these sad reveries
I was roused by the hoarse notes of the bagpipe. That well-known sound
brought every Scotchman upon deck, and set every limb in motion on the
decks of the other vessels. Determined not to be outdone, our fiddlers
took up the strain, and a lively contest ensued between the rival
musicians, which continued during the greater part of the night. The
shouts of noisy revelry were in no way congenial to my feelings. Nothing
tends so much to increase our melancholy as merry music when the heart
is sad; and I left the scene with eyes brimful of tears, and ray mind
painfully agitated by sorrowful recollections and vain regrets. |