Oh Nature! in thy
ever-varying face,
By rocky shore, or ’neath the forest tree,
What love divine, what matchless skill, I trace!
My full warm heart responsive thrills to thee.
Yea, in my throbbing bosom’s inmost core,
Thou reign’st supreme; and, in thy sternest mood,
Thy votary bend in rapture to adore
The Mighty Maker, who pronounced thee good.
Thy broad, majestic brow still bears His seal;
And when I cease to love, oh, may I cease to feel!
MY husband had long
promised me. a trip to Stony Lake, and in the summer of 1835, before the
harvest commenced, he gave Mr. Y-, who kept the mill at the rapids below
Clear Lake, notice of our intention, and the worthy^old man and his
family made due preparation for our reception. The little girls were to
accompany us.
We were to start at
sunrise, to avoid the heat of the day, to go up as far as Mr. Y-’s in
our canoe, re-embark with his sons above the rapids in birch-bark
canoes, go as far up the lake as we could accomplish by daylight, and
return at night; the weather being very warm, and the moon at full.
Before six o’clock we were all seated in the little craft, which spread
her white sail to a smart breeze, and sped merrily over the blue waters.
The lake on which our clearing stood was about a mile and a half in
length, and about three quarters of n mile in breadth; a mere pond, when
compared with the Bay of Quinte, Ontario, and the inland seas of Canada.
But it was oar lake, and, consequently, it had ten thousand beauties in
our eyes, which would scarcely have attracted the observation of a
stranger.
At the head of the
Katchawanook, the lake is divided by a long neck of land, that forms a
small bay on the right-hand side, and a very brisk rapid on the left.
The banks are formed of large masses of limestone; and the
cardinal-flower and the tiger-lily seem to have taken an especial fancy
to this spot, and to vie with each other in the display of their
gorgeous colours.
It is an excellent
place for fishing; the water is very deep close to the rocky pavement
that forms the bank, and it has a pebbly bottom. Many a magic hour, at
rosy dawn, or evening grey, have I spent with my husband on this
romantic spot; our canoe fastened to a bush, and ourselves it upon
ensnaring the black bass, a fish of excellent Savour that abounds in
this place.
Our paddles soon
carried us past the narrows, and through the rapid water, the children
sitting quietly at the bottom of the boat, enchanted with all they heard
and saw, begging papa to stop and gather water-lilies, or to catch one
of the splendid butterflies that hovered over us; w and often the little
Addie darted her white hand into the water to grasp at the shadow of the
gorgeous insects as they skimmed along the waves.
After passing the
rapids, the river widened into another small lake, perfectly round in
form, and having in its centre a tiny green island, in the midst of
which stood, like a shattered monument of bygone storms, one blasted,
black ash-tree.
The Indians call this
lake Bimikdkoon, but I do not know the exact meaning of the word. Some
say that it means “the Indian’s grave,” others “the lake of the one
island.” It is certain that an Indian girl is buried beneath that
blighted tree; but I never could learn the particulars of her story, and
perhaps there was no tale connected with it. She might have fallen a
victim to disease during the wanderings of her tribe, and been buried on
that spot; or she might have been drowned, which would account for her
having been buried away from the rest of her people.
This little lake lies
in the heart of the wilderness. There is but one clearing upon its
shores, and that had been made by lumberers many years before; the place
abounded with red cedar. A second growth of young timber had grown up in
this spot, which was covered also with raspberry-bushes—several hundred
acres being entirely overgrown with this delicious berry.
It was here annually
that we used to come in large picnic parties, to collect this valuable
fruit for our winter preserves, in defiance of black-flies, musquitoes,
snakes, and even bears; all which have boon encountered by berry-pickers
upon this spot, as busy and as active as themselves, gathering an ample
repast from Nature's bounteous lap.
And, oh ! what
beautiful wild shrubs and flowers grew up in that neglected spot! Some
of the happiest hours I spent in that bush are connected with
reminiscences of “Irving's shanty,” for so the raspberry-grounds were
called. The clearing could not be seen from the shore. You had to
scramble through a cedar-swamp to reach the sloping ground which
produced the berries.
The mill at the Clear
Lake rapids was about three miles distant from our own clearing; and
after stemming another rapid, and passing between two beautiful wooded
islands, the canoe rounded a point, and the rude structure was before
us.
A wilder and more
romantic spot than that which the old hunter had chosen for his
homestead in the wilderness could scarcely be imagined. The waters of
Clear Lake here empty themselves through a narrow, deep, rocky channel,
not exceeding a quarter of a mile in length, and tumble over a limestone
ridge of ten or twelve feet in height, which extends from one bank of
the river to the other. The shores on either side are very steep, and
the large oak-trees which have anchored their roots in every crevice of
the rock, throw their fantastic army far over the foaming waterfall, the
deep green of their massy foliage forming a beautiful contrast with the
white, flashing waters that foam over the chuta at least fifty feet
below the brow of the limestone rock. By a flight of steps cut in the
banks we ascended to the platform above the river on which Mr. Y-’s
house stood.
It was a large,
rough-looking, log building, surrounded by barns and sheds of the same
primitive material. The porch before the door was covered with hops, and
the room of general resort, into which it immediately opened, was of
large dimensions, the huge fire-place forming the most striking feature.
On the hearth-stone, hot as was the weather, blazed a great fire,
encumbered with all sorts of culinary apparatus, which, I am inclined to
think, had been called into requisition for our sole benefit and
accommodation.
The good folks had
breakfasted long before we storied from home, but they would not hear of
our proceeding to Stony Lake until after we had dined. It was only eight
o’clock A.M., and we had still four hours to dinner, which gave us ample
leisure to listen to the old man’s stories, ramble round the premises,
and observe all the striking features of the place.
Mr. Y-was a Catholic,
and the son of a respectable farmer from the south of Ireland. Some few
years before, he had emigrated with a large family of seven sons and two
daughters, and be as fond of field sports, and greatly taken with the
beauty of the locality in which he had pitched his tent in the
wilderness, he determined to raise a mill upon the dam which Nature had
provided to his hands, and wait patiently until the increasing
immigration should settle the townships of Smith and Douro, render the
property valuable, and bring plenty of grist to the mill.
He was not far wrong in
his calculations; and though for the first few years, he subsisted
entirely by hunting, fishing, and raising what potatoes and wheat he
required for his own family, on the most fertile spots he could find on
his barren lot, very little corn passed through the mill.
At the time we visited
his place, he was driving a thriving trade, and all the wheat that was
grown in the neighbourhood was brought by water to the ground at Y-’s
mill.
He had lost his wife a
few years after coming to the country; but his two daughters, Betty and
Norah, were excellent housewives, and amply supplied her loss. From
these amiable women we received a most kind and hearty welcome, and
every comfort and luxury within their reach.
They appeared a most
happy and contented family. The sons, a fine, hardy, independent set of
fellows—-were regarded by the old man with pride and affection. Many
were his anecdotes of their prowess in hunting and fishing.
His method of giving
them an aversion to strong drink while very young amused me greatly, but
it is not every child that could have stood the test of his experiment.
“When they were little
chaps, from five to six years of age, I made them very drunk,” he said;
‘'so drunk that it brought on severe headache and sickness, and this so
disgusted them with liquor, that they never could abide the sight of it
again. I have only one drunkard among the seven; and he was such a weak,
puling crathur, that I dared not try the same game with him, lest it
should kill him. ’Tis his nature, I suppose, and he can’t help it; but
the truth is, that to make up for the sobriety of all the rest, he is
killing himself with drink.”
Norah gave us an
account of her catching a deer that had got into the enclosure the day
before.
“I went out,” she said,
“early in the morning, to milk the cows, and I saw a fine young buck
struggling to get through the rail fence, in which having entangled his
head and horns, I knew, by the desperate efforts he was making to push
aside the rails, that if I was not quick in getting hold of him, he
would soon be gone.” “And did you dare to touch him?”
“If I had had Mat’s gun
I would have shot him, but ho would have made his escape long before I
could run to the house for that, so I went boldly up to him and got him
by tho hind legs; and though he kicked and struggled dreadfully, I held
on till Mat heard me call, and ran to my help, and cut his throat with
his hunting knife. So you see,” she continued, with a good-natured
laugh, “I can beat our hunters hollow—they hunt the deer, but I can
catch a buck with my hands,”
While we were chatting
away, great were the preparations making by Miss Betty and a very
handsome American woman, who had recently come thither as a help. One
little barefooted garsoon was shelling peas in an Indian basket, another
was stringing currants into a yellow pie-dish, and a third was sent to
the rapids with his rod and line, to procure a dish of fresh fish to add
to the long list of bush dainties that were preparing for our dinner.
It was in vain that I
begged our kind entertainers not to put themselves to the least trouble
on our account, telling them that we were now used to the woods, and
contented with anything; they were determined to exhaust all their
stores to furnish forth the entertainment. Nor can it be wondered at,
that, with so many dishes to cook, and pies and custards to bake,
instead of dining at twelve, it was past two o’clock before we were
conducted to the dinner-table. I was vexed and disappointed at the
delay, as I wanted to see all I could of the spot we were about to visit
before night and darkness compelled us to return.
The feast was spread in
a large outhouse, the table being formed of two broad deal boards laid
together, and supported by rude carpenter’s stools. A white linen cloth,
a relic of better days, concealed these arrangements. The board was
covered with an indescribable variety of roast and boiled, of fish,
flesh, and fowl. My readers should see a table laid out in a wealthy
Canadian farmer’s house before they can have any idea of the profusion
displayed in the entertainment of two visitors and their young children.
Besides venison, pork,
chickens, ducks, and fish of several kinds, cooked in a variety of ways,
there was a number of pumpkin, raspberry, cherry, and currant pies, with
fresh butter and green cheese (as the new cream-cheese is called), maple
molasses, preserves, and pickled cucumbers, besides tea and coffee—the
latter, be it known. I had watched the American woman boiling in the
frying pan. It was a black-looking compound, and I did not attempt to
discuss its merits. The vessel in which it had been prepared had
prejudiced me, and rendered me very sceptical on that score.
We were all very
hungry, having tasted nothing since five o’clock in the morning, and
contrived, out of the variety of good things before us, to make an
excellent dinner.
I was glad, however,
when we rose, to prosecute out intended trip up the lake. The old man,
whose heart was now thoroughly warmed with whiskey, declared that he
meant to make one of the party, and Betty, too was to accompany us; her
sister Norah kindly staying behind to take care of the children.
We followed a path
along the top of the high ridge of limestone rock, until we had passed
the falls and the rapids above, when we found Pat ant1 Mat Y-waiting for
us on the shore below, in two beautiful new birch bark canoes, which
they had purchased the day before from the Indians.
Miss Betty, Mat, and
myself, were safely stowed into one, while the old miller, and his son
Pat, and my husband, embarked in the other, and our steersman pushed off
into the middle of the deep and silent stream; the shadow of the tall
woods, towering so many feet above us, easting an inky hue upon the
waters.
The scene was very
imposing, and after paddling for a tow minutes in shade and silence, wo
suddenly emerged into light and sunshine, and Clear Lake, which gets its
name from the unrivalled brightness of its waters, spread out its azure
mirror before us. The Indians regard this sheet of water with peculiar
reverence. It abounds in the finest sorts of fish, the salmon-trout, the
delicious white fish, maskenoned, and black and white bass. There is no
island in this lake, no rice beds, nor stick nor stone to break its
tranquil beauty, and, at the time we visited it, there was but one
clearing upon its shores.
The log hut of the
squatter P-, commanding a beautiful prospect up and down the lake, stood
upon a bold slope fronting the water; all the rest was unbroken forest.
We had proceeded about
a mile on our pleasant voyage when our attention was attracted by a
singular natural phenomenon, which Mat Y-called the battery.
On the right-side of
the shore rose a steep, perpendicular wall of limestone, that had the
appearance of having been laid by the hand of man, so smooth aiid even
was its surface. After attaining a height of about fifty feet, a natural
platform of eight or ten yards broke the perpendicular line of the rock,
when another wall, like the first, rose to a considerable height,
terminating in a second and third platform of the same description.
Fire, at some distant
period, had run over these singularly beautiful terraces, and a second
growth of poplars and balm-of-gheads, relieved, by their tender green
and light, airy foliage, the sombre indigo tint of the heavy pines that
nodded like the plumes of a funeral-hearse over the fair young dwellers
on the rock.
The water is forty feet
deep at the base of this precipice, which is washed by the waves. After
we had passed
the battery, Mat
Y-turned to me and said, “That is a famous place for bears; many a bear
have I shot among those rocks.”
This led to a long
discussion on the wild beasts of the country.
“I do not think that
there is much danger to be apprehended from them,” said he; “but I once
had an ugly adventure with a wolf, two winters ago, on this lake.”
I was all curiosity to
hear the story, which sounded doubly interesting told on the very spot,
and while gliding over those lovely waters.
“We were lumbering, at
. ’ie head of Stony Lake, about eight miles from here, my four brothers,
myself, and several other hands. The v inter was long and severe;
although it was the first week in March, there was not the least
appearance of a thaw, and the ice on these lakes was firm as ever. I had
been sent home to fetch a yoke of oxen to draw the saw-logs down to the
water, our chopping being all completed, and the logs ready for rafting.
“I did not think it
necessary to encumber myself with my rifle, and was, therefore, provided
with no weapon of defence but the long gad I used to urge on the cattle.
It was about four o’clock in the afternoon when I rounded Sandy Point,
that long point which is about a mile a-head of us on the left shore,
when I first discovered that I was followed, but at a great distance, by
a large wolf. At first, I thought little of the circumstance, beyond a
passing wish that I had brought my gun. I knew that ho would not attack
me before dark, and it was still two long hours to sundown; so I
whistled; and urged on my oxen, and soon forgot the wolf—when, on
stopping to repair a little damage to the peg of the yoke, I was
surprised to find him close at my heels. I turned, and ran towards him,
shouting as loud as I could, when he slunk back, but showed no
inclination to make off. Knowing that he must have companions near, by
his boldness, I shouted as loud as I could, hoping that my cries might
be heard by my brothers, who would imagine that the oxen had got into
the ice, and would come to my assistance. I was now winding my way
through the islands in Stony Lake; the sun was setting red before me,
and I had still three miles of my journey to accomplish. The wolf had
become so impudent that I kept him off by pelting him with snow balls;
and once he came so near that I struck him with the gad. I now began to
be seriously alarmed, and from time to time, shouted with all my
strength; and you may imagine my joy when these cries were answered by
the report of a gun. My brothers had heard me, and the discharge of a
gun, for a moment, seemed to daunt the wolf. He uttered a long howl,
which was answered by the cries of a large pack of the dirty brutes from
the wood. It was only just light enough to distinguish objects, and I
had to stop and face my enemy, to keep him at bay.
“I saw the skeleton
forms of half-a-dozen more of thorn slinking among the bushes that
skirted a low island; and tired and cold, I gave myself and the oxen up
for lost, when I felt the ice tremble on which I stood, and heard men
running at a little distance. ‘Fire your guns!’ I cried out, as loud as
I could. My order was obeyed, and such a yelling and howling immediately
filled the whole forest as would have chilled your very heart. The
thievish varmints instantly (led away into the bush.
“I never felt the least
fear of wolves until that night J but when they meet in large bands,
like cowardly dogs, they trust to their numbers and grow fierce. If you
meet with one wolf, you may be certain that the whole pack is at no
great distance.”
We were fast
approaching Sandy Point, a long white ridge of sand, running half across
the lake, and though only covered with scattered groups of scrubby trees
and brush, it effectually screened Stony Lake from our view. There were
so many beautiful flowers peeping through the dwarf, green bushes, that,
wishing to inspect them nearer, Mat kindly ran the canoe ashore, and
told me that he would show me a pretty spot, where an Indian, who had
been drowned during a storm off that point, was buried. I immediately
recalled the story of Susan Moore’s father, but Mat thought that he was
interred upon one of the islands farther up.
“ It is strange.” he
said, “ that they are such bad swimmers. The Indian, though unrivalled
by us whites in the use of the paddle, is an animal that does not take
readily to the water, and those among them who can swim seldom use it as
a recreation.”
Pushing our way through
the bushes, we came to a small opening in the underwood, so thickly
grown over with wild Canadian roses, in full blossom, that the air was
impregnated with a. delightful odour. In the centre of this bed of
sweets rose the humble mound that protected the bones of the red man
from the ravenous jaws of the wolf and the wild oat. It was completely
covered with stones, and from among the crevices had sprung a tuft of
blue harebells, waving as wild and free as if they grew •among the bonny
red heather on the glorious hills of the North or shook their tiny bells
to the breeze on the broom-encircled commons of England.
The harebell had always
from a child been with me a favourite flower; and the first sight of it
in Canada, growing upon that lonely grave, so flooded my soul with
remembrances of the past, that in spite of myself, the tears poured
freely from my eyes. There arc moments when it is impossible to repress
those outgushings of the heart—
“Those flood-gates of
the soul that sever,
In passion's tide to part for ever.”
If Mat and his sister
wondered at my tears, they must have suspected the cause, for they
walked to a little distance, and left to the indulgence of my feelings.
I gathered those flowers, and placed them in my bosom, and kept them for
many a day; they had become holy, when connected with sacred home
recollections, and the never-dying affections of the heart which the
sight of them recalled.
A shout from our
companions in the other canoe made us retrace our steps to the shore.
They had already rounded the point, and were wondering at our absence.
Oh, what a magnificent
scene of wild and lonely grandeur burst upon us as we swept round the
little peninsula, and the whole majesty of Stony Lake broke upon us at
once, another Lake of the Thousand Isles in miniature, and in the heart
of the wilderness ! Imagine a large sheet of water, some fifteen miles
in breadth and twenty-five in length, taken up by islands of every size
and shape, from the lofty naked rock of red granite to the rounded hill,
covered with oak-trees to its summit; while others were level with the
waters, and of a rich emerald green, only fringed with a growth of
aquatic shrubs and flowers. Never did my eyes rest on a' more lovely or
beautiful scene. Not a vestige of man, or of his works was there. The
setting sun, that cast such a gorgeous flood of light upon this
exquisite panorama, bringing out some of these lofty islands in strong
relief, and casting others into intense shade, shed no cheery beam upon
church spire or cottage pane. We beheld the landscape, savage and grand
in its primeval beauty.
As we floated among the
channels between these rocky picturesque isles, I asked Mat how many of
them there were.
“I never could
succeed,” he said, “in counting them all* One Sunday, Pat and I spent a
whole day in going from one to the other, to try and make out how many
there were, but we could only count up to one hundred and forty before
we gave up the task in despair. There are a great many of them; more
than any one would think—and, what is very singular, the channel between
them is very deep, sometimes above forty feet, which accounts for the
few rapids to be found in this lake. It is a glorious place for hunting;
and the waters, undisturbed by steam-boats, abound in all sorts of fish.
“Most of these islands
are covered with huckleberries; while grapes, high and low-bush
cranberries, blackberries, wild cherries, gooseberries, and several
sorts of wild currants grow here in profusion. There is ono island among
these groups (but I never could light upon the identical one) where the
Indians yearly gather their wampum-grass. They come here to collect the
best birch-bark for their canoes, and to gather wild onions. In short,
from the game, fish, and fruit which they collect among the islands of
this lake, they chiefly depend for their subsistence. They are very
jealous of the settlers in the country coming to hunt and fish here, and
tell many stories of wild beasts and rattlesnakes that abound along its
shores; but I, who have frequented the lake for years, was never
disturbed by anything, beyond the adventure with the wolf, which I have
already told you. The banks of this lake are all steep and rocky, and
the land along the shore is barren, and totally unfit for cultivation.
“Had we time to run up
a few miles further, I could have showed you some places well worth a
journey to look at; but the sun is already down, and it will be dark
before we get back to the mill.”
The other canoe now
floated alongside, and Pat agreed with his brother that it was high time
to return. With reluctance I turned from this strangely fascinating
scene. As we passed under one bold rocky island, Mat said, laughingly,
“That is Mount Rascal".
“How did it obtain that
name?”
“Oh, we were out here
berrying, with our good priest, Mr. B-. This island promised so fair,
that we landed upon it, and, after searching for an hour, we returned to
the boat without a single berry, upon which Mr. B- named it "Mount
Rascal. ”
The island was so
beautiful, it did not deserve the name, and I christened it “Oak Hill,”
from the abundance of oak-trees which clothed its steep sides. The wood
of this oak is so heavy and hard that it will not float in the water,
and it is in great request for the runners of lumber-sleighs, which have
to pass over very bad roads.
The breeze, which had
rendered our sail up the lakes so expeditious and refreshing, had
stiffened into a pretty high wind, which was dead against us all the way
down. Betty now knelt in the bow and assisted her brother, squaw
fashion, in paddling the canoe; but, in spite of all their united
exertions, it was past ten o’clock before we reached the mill. The good
Norah was waiting tea for us. She had given the children their supper
four hours Ago, and the little creatures, tired with using their feet
all day, were sound asleep upon her bed.
After supper, several
Irish songs were sung, while Pat played upon the fiddle, and Betty and
Mat enlivened the company with an Irish jig.
It was midi] ght when
the children were placed on my cloak at the bottom of the canoe, and we
bade adieu to this hospitable family. The wind being dead against us, we
were obliged to dispense with the sail, and take to our paddles. The
moonlight was as blight as day, the air warm and balmy; and the
aromatic, resinous smell exuded by the heat from the balm-of-gilead and
the pine-trees of the forest, added greatly to our sense of enjoyment as
we floated past scenes so wild and lonely—isles that assumed a
mysterious look and character in that pitching hour. In moments like
these, I ceased to regret my separation from my native land; and, filled
with the love of Nature, my heart forgot for the time the love of home.
The very spirit of peace seemed to brood over the waters, which were
broken into a thousand ripples of light by every breeze that stirred the
rice blossoms, or whispered through the shivering aspen-trees. The
far-off roar of the rapids, softened by distance, and the long, mournful
cry of the night owl, alone broke the pines of the night. Amid these
lonely wilds the soul draws nearer to God, and is filled to overflowing
by the overwhelming sense of His presence.
It was two o’clock in
the morning when we fastened the canoe to the landing, and Moodie
carried up the children to the house. I found the girl still up with my
boy, who had been very restless during our absence.
My heart reproached me,
as I caught him to my breast, for leaving him so long; in a few minutes
he was consoled for past sorrows, and sleeping sweetly in my arms.
A CANADIAN SONG.
Come, launch the light
canoe;
The breeze is fresh and strong:
The summer skies are blue,
And ’tis joy to float along;
Away o’er the waters,
The bright-glancing waters,
The many-voiced waters,
As they dance in light and song.
When the great Creator spoke,
On the long unmeasured night,
The living day-spring broke,
And the waters own’d His might;
The voice of many waters,
Of glad, rejoicing waters,
Of living, leaping waters,
First hailed the dawn of light.
Where foaming billows glide
To earth’s remotest bound
The rushing ocean tide
Bolls on the solemn sound;
God’s voice is in the waters;
The deep, mysterious waters,
The sleepless, dashing waters,
Still breathe its tones around. |