Before day-break
breakfast was ready, and proved to be a more tempting
meal than the supper of the night before. There were fine dry potatoes,
roast wild pigeon, fried pork, cakes, butter, eggs, milk, "China tea,"
and chocolate--which last was a brown-coloured extract of cherry-tree
bark, sassafras root, and wild sarsaparilla, warmly recommended by our
host as "first-rate bitters." Declining this latter beverage, we made a
hearty meal.
It was now day-break. As we were new comers, Root offered to convoy us
"a piece of the way," a very serviceable act of kindness, for, in the
dim twilight we experienced at first no little difficulty in discerning
it. Pointing out some faint glimmerings of morning, which were showing
themselves more and more brightly over the tall tree-tops, our friend
remarked, "I guess that's where the sun's calc'lating to rise."
The day had advanced sufficiently to enable us to distinguish the road
with ease. Our tavern-keeper returned to his work, and in a few minutes
the forest echoed to the quick strokes of his lustily-wielded axe. We
found ourselves advancing along a wide avenue, unmarked as yet by the
track of wheels, and unimpeded by growing brush-wood. To the width of
sixty-six feet, all the trees had been cut down to a height of between
two and three feet, in a precisely straight course for miles, and burnt
or drawn into the woods; while along the centre, or winding from side to
side like the course of a drunken man, a waggon-track had been made by
grubbing up smaller and evading the larger stumps, or by throwing a
collection of small limbs and decayed wood into the deeper inequalities.
Here and there, a ravine would be rendered passable by placing across it
two long trunks of trees, often at a sharp angle, and crossing these
transversely with shorter logs; the whole covered with brush-wood and
earth, and dignified with the name of a "corduroy bridge."
At the Nottawasaga River, we found a log house recently erected, the
temporary residence of Wellesley Richey, Esq., an Irish gentleman, then
in charge of the new settlements thereabouts. Mr. Richey received us
very courteously, and handed us over to the charge of an experienced
guide, whose business it was to show lands to intending settlers--a very
necessary precaution indeed, as after a mile or two the road ceased
altogether.
For some miles further, the forest consisted of Norway and white pine,
almost unmixed with any other timber. There is something majestic in
these vast and thickly-set labyrinths of brown columnar stems averaging
a hundred and fifty feet in height, perhaps, and from one to five in
thickness, making a traveller feel somewhat like a Lilliputian Gulliver
in a field of Brobdignagian wheat. It is singular to observe the effect
of an occasional gust of wind in such situations. It may not even fan
your cheek; but you hear a low surging sound, like the moaning of
breakers in a calm sea, which gradually increases to a loud boisterous
roar, still seemingly at a great distance; the branches remain in
perfect repose, you can discover no evidence of a stirring breeze, till,
looking perpendicularly upwards, you are astonished to see some
patriarchal giant close at hand--six yards round and sixty high--which
alone has caught the breeze, waving its huge fantastic arms wildly at a
dizzy height above your head.
There are times when the hardiest woodman dares not enter the pine
woods; when some unusually severe gale sweeping over them bends their
strong but slender stems like willow wands, or catches the
wide-spreading branches of the loftier trees with a force that fairly
wrenches them out by the roots, which creeping along on the surface of
the soil, present no very powerful resistance. Nothing but the close
contiguity of the trees saves them from general prostration. Interlocked
branches are every moment broken off and flung to a distance, and even
the trunks clash, and as it were, whet themselves against each other,
with a shock and uproar that startles the firmest nerves.
It were tedious to detail all the events of our morning's march: How
armed with English fowling pieces and laden with ammunition, we
momentarily expected to encounter some grisly she-bear, with a numerous
family of cubs; or at the least a herd of deer or a flock of wild
turkeys: how we saw nothing more dangerous than woodpeckers with crimson
heads, hammering away at decayed trees like transmigrated carpenters;
how we at last shot two partridges sitting on branches, very unlike
English ones, of which we were fain to make a meal, which was utterly
detestable for want of salt; how the government guide led us,
helter-skelter, into the untracked woods, walking as for a wager,
through thickets of ground hemlock,[2] which entangled our feet and
often tripped us up; how we were obliged to follow him over and under
wind-falls, to pass which it was necessary to climb sometimes twenty
feet along some half-recumbent tree; how when we enquired whether clay
or sand were considered the best soil, he said some preferred one, and
some the other; how he showed us the front of a lot that was bad, and
guessed that the rear ought to be better; how we turned back at last,
thoroughly jaded, but no wiser than when we set out--all this and much
more, must be left to the reader's imagination.
It was drawing towards evening. The guide strode in advance, tired and
taciturn, like some evil fate. We followed in pairs, each of us provided
with a small bunch of leafy twigs to flap away the mosquitoes, which
rose in myriads from the thick, damp underbrush.
"It will be getting dark," said the guide, "you must look out for the
blaze."
We glanced anxiously around. "What does he mean?" asked one of the
party, "I see no blaze."
The man explained that the blaze (query, blazon?) was a white mark which
we had noticed on some of the trees in our route, made by slicing off a
portion of the bark with an axe, and invariably used by surveyors to
indicate the road, as well as divisions and sub-divisions of townships.
After a time this mark loses its whiteness and becomes undistinguishable
in the dusk of evening, even to an experienced eye.
Not a little rejoiced were we, when we presently saw a genuine blaze in
the form of a log fire, that brilliantly lighted up the forest in front
of a wigwam, which, like everything else on that eventful day, was to us
delightfully new and interesting. We found, seated on logs near the
fire, two persons in blanket coats and red sashes, evidently gentlemen;
and occupying a second wigwam at a little distance, half-a-dozen axemen.
The gentlemen proved to be the Messrs. Walker, afterwards of Barrie,
sons of the wealthy owner of the great shot-works at Waterloo Bridge,
London, England. They had purchased a tract of a thousand acres, and
commenced operations by hiring men to cut a road through the forest
eight or ten miles to their new estate, which pioneering exploit they
were now superintending in person. Nothing could exceed the vigour of
their plans. Their property was to be enclosed in a ring fence like a
park, to exclude trespassers on their game. They would have herds of
deer and wild horses. The river which intersected their land was to be
cleared of the drift logs, and made navigable. In short, they meant to
convert it into another England. In the meanwhile, the elder brother had
cut his foot with an axe, and was disabled for the present; and the
younger was busily engaged in the unromantic occupation of frying
pancakes, which the axemen, who were unskilled in cookery, were to have
for their supper.
Nowhere does good-fellowship spring up so readily as in the bush. We
were soon engaged in discussing the aforesaid pancakes, with some fried
pork, as well as in sharing the sanguine hopes and bright visions which
accorded so well with our own ideas and feelings.
We quitted the wigwam and its cheerful tenants with mutual good wishes
for success, and shortly afterwards reached the river whence we had
started, where Mr. Richey kindly invited us to stay for the night.
Exhausted by our rough progress, we slept soundly till the morning sun
shone high over the forest.
[Footnote 2: Taxus Canadensis, or Canadian Yew, is a trailing evergreen
shrub which covers the ground in places. Its stems are as strong as
cart-ropes, and often reach the length of twenty feet.] |