Halifax, Nova Scotia (Part 1)
Halifax, Nova Scotia (Part 2)
In the exact middle of
the peninsula of Nova Scotia a triangular piece of land juts out into
the Atlantic. To this second peninsula is attached a third, and upon
this narrow rocky strip, three miles long by a single wide, a century
and a half ago was founded the “Crunstadt of Canada.” East and wrest of
Halifax is the sea, but the sea subdued and serene: for on the one hand
is the world-famed Halifax harbour, and on the other the river-like
north-west arm. In the harbour a thousand ships may ride quietly at
anchor: it is always accessible: as it touches the upper end of the town
it narrows only to expand again into Bedford Basin—ten square miles of
peaceful marine haven. On the eastern slope of the little isthmus,
Halifax is built, the ground rising from the harbour’s edge, some two
hundred and fifty feet, to where is reared the great stone citadel, a
striking spectacle when viewed from the sea—to the ocean-borne traveller
striking and significant.
“Into the mist my
guardian prows put forth,
Behind the mist my virgin ramparts lie,
The Warden of the Honour of the North,
Sleepless and veiled am I”
Halifax has been for a
century and a half the chief naval and military headquarters of British
North America, and for some time the sole garrison of regular troops in
Canada. Its military spirit dates from its very birth.
There are greetings of every kind and degree in store for the traveller
in parts civilised, uncivilised, barbarous, and savage; greetings at the
portals of the city, effusive, boisterous, vociferous. There is one
time-dishonoured greeting that I could dispense with more freely than
all the rest, and it is that which awaits the incomer by rail to the
capital of New Scotland. Conjure up in your fancy seventeen shaggy,
wild-eyed men, in whose visages Celtic trails predominate, standing in a
row, brandishing their outflung fists, bawling at the top of their
voices, and only prevented from leaping upon the traveller and forthwith
tearing him to pieces by a too-slender wooden barrier—and you have the
spectacle which many a time and oft has confronted me at the Halifax
railway terminus. For a moment, not understanding the pleasant local
custom, with stunned faculties you stand regarding the line of raving
madmen, unable to distinguish the diabolical dissyllable they are
hurling at your head; and then a glimmering of the truth comes upon you,
your hand-bag and umbrella-case fall from your limp grasp, they are
caught up by one of the shrieking phalanx, by whom you are hustled into
an open victoria and driven at breakneck speed to a hotel. It is
pretended that the natives like this custom—that they have grown used to
it—that as the local poet sings:
“’Tis sweet to hear the
cabman’s honest bark,
Bay deep-mouthed welcome as we draw near home.”
One Scot, thrillingly
ingenious, declares that on arriving at Halifax he surrenders himself to
a wonderful illusion, one that I dare hardly mention because of its
audacity. He half-closes his eyes and imagines himself reinstated in his
rightful chieftainship in the fastnesses of his Highland ancestors, and
hears the clansmen shouting at him as they shouted at the returned
Malcolm Dhu: “Am faic. thu sin? Am faic thu sin? Tha mi ’dol do
Chualadh!” and other guttural acclamations, issued with such passionate
frenzy and strength of lung as transport him back to the land of his
fathers.
For otherwise is it with the newcomer by sea. The traveller steams into
a smooth and spacious harbour, and suddenly his gaze falls upon the city
bathed in sunlight, stretching up from the wharves to the citadel
crowned by the glorious flag that (with a few slight alterations and
additions) for a thousand years “hath braved the battle and the breeze.”
“I was dressing,” wrote Charles Dickens, describing his arrival at
Halifax seventy years ago, “about half-past nine next day, when the
noise above hurried me on deck. When I had left it over-night it was
dark, foggy, and damp, and there were bleak hills all round us. Now we
were gliding down a smooth, broad stream, at the rate of eleven miles an
hour; our colours flying gaily; our crew rigged out in their smartest
clothes; our officers in uniform again; the sun shining as on a
brilliant April day in England, the land stretched out on either side,
streaked with light patches of snow; white wooden houses; people at
their doors; telegraphs working; flags hoisted; wharfs appearing; ships;
quays crowded with people; distant noises; shouts; men and boys running
down steep places towards the pier; all more bright and gay and fresh to
our unused eyes than words can paint them. We came to a wharf, paved
with uplifted faces, got alongside and were made fast, after some
shouting and straining of cables; darted, a score of us, along the
gangway almost as soon as it was thrust out to meet us, and before it
had reached the ship, and leaped upon the firm, glad earth.
“I suppose this Halifax would have appeared an Elysium, though it had
been a curiosity of ugly dullness. But I carried away with me a most
pleasant impression of the town and its inhabitants, and have preserved
it to this hour. Nor was it without regret that I came home, without
having found an opportunity of returning thither, and once more shaking
hands with the friends I made that day.”
“The town,” he goes on to say, “is built on the side of a hill, the
highest point being commanded by a strong fortress, not yet quite
finished. Several streets of good breadth and appearance extend from its
summit to the water-side, and are intersected by cross streets running
parallel with the river. The houses are chiefly of wood. The market is
abundantly supplied; and provisions are exceedingly cheap. The weather
being unusually mild at that time for the season of the year, there was
no sleighing; but there were plenty of those vehicles in yards and
by-places, and some of them, from the gorgeous quality of their
decorations, might have ‘gone on’ without alteration as triumphal cars
in a melodrama at Astley’s. The day was uncommonly fine; the air bracing
and healthful; the whole aspect of the town cheerful, thriving, and
industrious.”
Yet candour compels me to say that the impression made on the visitor by
Halifax viewed at close quarters is not as favourable as it might be.
One writer does not hesitate to call it “dingy and shabby”; and this
effect is without doubt attributable first to the material employed in
building the residential streets, and secondly to the utter neglect in
the whole Province of which it is the capital, of architectural beauty.
And herein Halifax shows not least its true British conservative
character, not to say its London and English provincial city character.
For given dull yellow brick as a material, I can show you miles upon
miles of Halifax in Camden Town and Bayswater, in Clerkenwell and
Bloomsbury. As the ballad in the “Arcadians” runs:
“When first I came to
London town,
I thought it dingy, old, and brown.”
I can show you
Halifaxes in Liverpool and Glasgow. Let no Londoner of the Georgian or
Victorian age, whose architectural taste is represented by Gower Street
and Smith Square, reproach the “Warden of the Honour of the North.” At
the very beginning an attempt was made to copy London; and St. Paul’s
Church, long the procathedral, was built in 1750 on the model of St.
Peter’s, in Vere Street, Piccadilly. Other houses were constructed on
that other Cockney model, which proceeds on the principle that a square
wall, with a horizontal upper edge, pierced at mathematical intervals
with oblong holes for windows, is a facade.
But an even more serious mistake—perhaps it was at first a necessity—the
founders of Halifax made, in which their successors and descendants have
persisted to the present day; a fundamental and essential mistake which
no amount of shaping, and forming, and painting will ever correct or
atone for—a mistake which, it is painful to have to record, it is
difficult to bring Haligonians to recognise as such—they built then and
build now their houses entirely of wood. Wooden houses may be cheap,
wooden houses may be easy to build, wooden houses may be painted to look
like stone or brick, but wooden houses are not for men, but children.
People who live in glass houses, we are told, shouldn’t throw stones;
and people who live in wooden can’t care for posterity, for it is
certain that posterity won’t care for them. It is not as if stone were
not cheap, or brick available—the Colonial showed from the first bis
improvidence and his distrust in his future, by building of wood, and
the result is what might be expected. Time has not dignified, but
detracted.
“A modern wooden ruin,” Haliburton told his fellow-countrymen, “is of
itself the least interesting and at the same time the most depressing
object imaginable. The massive structures of antiquity, that are
everywhere met with in Europe, exhibit the remains of great strength,
and though injured and defaced by the slow and almost imperceptible
agency of time, promise to continue thus mutdated for ages to come. They
awaken the images of departed generations, and are sanctified by legend
and by tale. But a wooden ruin shows rank and rapid decay, concentrates
its interest on one family, or one man, and resembles a mangled corpse
rather than the monument that covers it. It has no historical
importance, no ancestral record. It awakens not the imagination. The
poet finds no inspiration in it, and the antiquary no interest, It
speaks only of death and decay, and recent calamity and vegetable
decomposition. The very air about it is close, dank, and unwholesome. It
has no grace, no strength, no beauty, but looks deformed, gross, and
repulsive. Even the faded colour of a painted wooden house, the
tarnished gilding of its decorations, the corroded iron of its
fastenings and its crumbling materials, all indicate recent use and
temporary habitation. It is but a short time since this mansion was
tenanted by its royal master, and in that brief space how great has been
the devastation of the elements! A few years more and all trace of it
will have disappeared for ever. Its very site will soon become a matter
of doubt. The forest is fast reclaiming its own, and the lawns and
ornamented gardens annually sown with seeds scattered by the winds from
the surrounding woods, are relapsing into a state of nature, and
exhibiting in detached patches a young growth of such trees as are
common to the country.”
“The capital of Nova Scotia,” wrote a traveller in 1856, “looks like a
town of cards, nearly all the buildings being of wood. There are wooden
houses, wooden churches, wooden wharves, wooden slates, and if there arc
sidewalks these are of wood also. I was pleased at a distance with the
appearance of two churches, one of thorn a Gothic edifice, but on nearer
inspection found them to be of wood, and took refuge in the substantial
masonry of the really handsome Province Building and Government House."
“At least,” retorted a Nova Scotian upon a Yankee critic, “we don’t go
in for wooden nutmegs.”
“You’re not smart enough,” was the retort, “your very beads are of
wood.”
“I fear,” remarked a distinguished Episcopal visitor on being shown the
city, “your people are not orthodox. They make an idol of wood.”
“My Lord,” was Sir Robert Weatherbeys witty rejoinder, “we attach little
importance to material things. For remember,
The heathen in their
blindness,
Bow down to wood and stone.”
On Citadel Hill, the
crowning height of Halifax, are to be seen obsolete fortifications,
begun by the Duke of Kent, and as time went on altered and improved to
keep pace with the rapid advances of scientific warfare. In and around
Halifax there is now a thoroughly modern system of fortifications; and
improvements and additions to these works are continually being made.
The prominent points on the shores and the neighbouring islands are
completely equipped with modern quick-firing and disappearing guns, and
other forms of defence are not neglected.
The annual naval and military manoeuvres, of which Halifax used to be
the scene, were a great source of interest, and attracted throngs of
tourists. One saw the North Atlantic Squadron anchored peacefully in the
harbour. Suddenly there rang out the shrill boatswain’s whistle, and
there ensued a vision of crews swarming up the rigging, the loosening of
sails, the hoisting of anchors, and then, in a few moments, the stately
fleet steamed majestically down past the city and out to sea. For “war”
had been, declared, and the fleet which thus went out to meet the enemy,
will itself be the “enemy” on its return, and a fierce bombardment be
expected unless the pretence that it is blown to fragments by submarines
and torpedoes be successful. Meanwhile, the military authorities at the
citadel were on the qui vive. The militia was called out, the garrison
were at their guns or at the look-out, the submarine and torpedo
engineers were busy laying surface mines and inspecting sunken mines and
booms. The tension continued through that day and the ensuing night,
until at daybreak the booming of cannon on the York Redoubt announces
the approach of the enemy and the beginning of the attack. In all this
and the attendant military review's and sham-fights the whole of Halifax
participated, and the glory of the manoeuvres ended in a ball at
Government House.
A change has come over the Imperial aspect of me Province since the
Dominion Government took over the naval and military defences of Halifax
from the Mother Country. I found Halifax, with its citadel crowned
slopes, its wooden houses, its tree-lined avenues bathed in glowing
summer sunshine, but Haligonian society with no sunshine in its heart.
“Where are the tars of yester-year?” the belles of Halifax seemed to be
saying. “Where are the gallant captains, commanders, lieutenants,
sub-lieutenants, and middies with whom we waltzed, and flirted, and
played tennis, and acted and boated within the North-west arm?” I was
prepared for this, but not for a similar complaint with regard to the
British Army. For on parade, at church, at the Halifax club, were not
the regulation uniforms denoting the British officer as much in evidence
as ever? “Oh, those!” was the supercilious rejoinder of one fair damsel,
lying bark in a canoe on the shores of Bedford Basin; “they don't count.
They're Canadians.”
To me these officers in their spick-and-span khaki, touched with
scarlet, were indistinguishable from the Simon-pure insular breed. But
trust a fair Haligonian to know the difference. I was reminded of the
saying of a recent Lieutenant-Governor of Nova Scotia, who did not seem
very effusive in his welcome of one who wore his Majesty’s uniform, just
arrived at Government House. “I’m sorry the fellow was offended; but
nobody interests me who reaches Nova Scotia by land."
And, indeed, it is only recently that many Nova Scotians have taken
kindly to the term Canadian as applied to themselves, resembling in this
respect the British Columbians of the pre-Confederation and
ultra-conservative school.
It certainly has made a difference, perhaps only temporary, to the tone
of Halifax society this substitution of a Canadian for the old Imperial
establishment. Nor is the idea of a Canadian Navy taken seriously. One
had only to mention the Niobe and the Rainbow to excite a smile.
The officers may turn
out to be good fellows, but they will need all their tact, good looks,
and gallantry to overcome the prejudice the fair Haligonians feel
towards them as delegates from Ottawa instead of from the British
Admiralty. As for the military, I heard many complaints as to how their
men had received their appointments at Ottawa, but none as to how they
do their work. And what is better still, they have earned the respect of
the British "Tommies,” who still form 90 per cent, of the garrison,
better paid and better fed than they were under the Imperial regime. And
yet such pay and feeding hardly serves to attract the native-born, very
few of whom are ready to enlist, so that the garrison is conspicuously
undermanned.
But Halifax is a charming place to live in for all that. It has so long
been a naval port and a garrison town, that the family ties between its
people and those of England continue to be very numerous. Commercial
relations between the two countries have grown to such an extent that
the natives have now all that is admirable in English business circles
and polite society. A visitor, if given the entree of the best society,
must perforce carry away the most kindly recollections of his visit.
Whatever his nationality, few places will make more strenuous efforts to
give him the greatest enjoyment. And the attractions for the visitor are
many, both in and around the town. A favourite drive is along the Point
Pleasant Road and up the North-wrest Arm. A most attractive place is
this North-west Arm, and the drive, especially when continued past
Melville Island and as far as the Dingle, is a most enjoyable one.
Attending divine service on the day following my arrival, I tried to
listen to the reverend gentleman expatiating in a patriarchal, and, I
thought, somewhat ungallant way on the duties of women. My eye roved
over the interior of the sacred edifice, which is, in many ways, the
most interesting in Canada. One of the very first undertakings of the
infant colony a century and a half ago was to provide themselves with a
place of worship, and in the original plan of the town one square was
reserved for a site. They applied to the British Government, who
referred it to Lord Halifax, who attended service at St. Peter’s, Vere
Street, Piccadilly. His lordship sought out the architect of St.
Peter’s, got the plans, and sent them out to Nova Scotia. There the
frame and other materials were imported from Boston, and in less than a
year the colonists were attending service within an exact replica of the
London church, which they named St. Paul’s. For many years it was used
by successive bishops as a cathedral, including both the Inglises,
father and grandfather of Sir John Inglis of Lucknow. Richer than any
other church in Canada is St. Paul’s in mural tablets, and as our eye
sweeps the four walls it encounters many historic names. One of these is
that of Governor John Parr, the friend and comrade of Wolfe.
I wish I could speak in praise of Halifax’s new cathedral, to which
reference will be found elsewhere in these pages. I wish I could plead
that as I saw it, merely in process of construction, it would be
impossible to render judgment upon it. For to me the whole principle
upon which such structures are built is a wrong one. Even the architects
have been impelled to issue a kind of manifesto, in which the following
interesting statement occurs :—
“Perhaps the greatest disadvantage we of the western world are compelled
to undergo in our buildings, in the vast majority of cases at any rate,
is the sordid meanness or cheap tawdriness of the surroundings. This
condition is so marked in certain portions of America as to quite
dishearten the conscientious architect at the. very inception of his
task. Many noble buildings there are such as would become beautiful
situations abroad that here seem contemptible, at odds with their
environment.”
It is true they hasten to disclaim such surroundings for Halifax, but go
on to say—
“Amid such surroundings any attempt at such glittering splendours as are
gathered in, say, the Basilica of Saint Mark at Venice, or such sombre
glories of carving and metal as are everywhere present in the cathedral
of the debonair city of Seville, would be wholly out of place. Even the
unruffled sunlit calm of the English cathedrals may hardly be attempted,
much less attained. The city is a northern one, the land one of long
winters and deep snows, and over all blows the keen air of the salt sea,
that singles out each unprotected bit of masonry, every weak cranny of
construction, for attack. Only the hardest and must enduring of
materials can undergo such a searching test as the old builders of the
town well knew, and much that gives charm to similar buildings of the
old world must be frankly dispensed with; the parapets for one, that in
every period of the Gothic style as built abroad, heavy and castellated
in early work, pieced and lace-like in later times, are almost an
integral feature, for these would form pockets for great piles of
drifted snow lhat melting in the spring would surely creep up and into
the slates and woodwork of the roof And the heavy floors of irregular
flags that so charm the traveller abroad, must perforce be abandoned,
for these should rest upon solid earth, and only in a land where the
forces of frost are but puny can this be done, while the same force it
is that forbids the employment well, of other architectural details that
involve care, labour, and expense. I have never heard a more ingenious
and disingenuous defence of flimsiness, the whole truth being that
Halifax would have liked a first-rate cathedral, but did not like to
spend the requisite sum upon it. If these architects had gone to Russia
and Northern Germany, not to mention Old Scotland, I dare say they would
find that a cold climate is not altogether antagonistic to sound and
even elaborate masonry and even to permanence. The whole point ’s
contained in their conclusion, in which it is confessed:
“The cost of the mediaeval cathedrals was lightly met by the people of
the past, but the funds which would be incurred in erecting even such a
lifeless and soulless replica as we are only capable of to-day, would be
far beyond the capacity of any diocese to gather together.”
So much for the great cathedral of Halifax!
Our fellow-citizens in the densely-settled heart of the Empire, you are
just beginning to realise the century-old ideals of those in the outer
marches. You are just beginning to see the significance of Canadian
loyalty— regarded as loyalty to the race, “Because,” as Mr. Kipling once
wrote to a friend of mine, a Newfoundlander, “the Empire is Us—We
ourselves: and for the white man to explain that he is loyal is almost
as unnecessary as for a respectable woman to volunteer the fact that she
is chaste.”
As the solidarity of the British race—we ourselves— increases, we can
take a greater interest in Colonial origins— we can be entertained by
seeing how each colony reached the same political
goal—self-government—by a different path.
As Annapolis Royal is the cradle of Canada, so Halifax may be called the
cradle of Colonial self-government. Urged by this sentiment, Sir
Sandford Fleming, the late engineer-in-chief of the Canadian Pacific
Railway, and a most notable Imperialist, not long since conceived a
truly original and interesting idea. Imperial ideas are not yet so
common that significance may be disregarded by any Briton. At his
beautiful house on the North-west Arm — that salt-water inlet once
called the Sandwich River— the keen-eyed, gentle-voiced octogenarian
explained to me his scheme, which has already touched the imagination of
the Colonies.
“Whatever,” said he, “may be the latitude and longitude of each
community enjoying the freedom, the justice, the protection, the
privileges, and advantages that spring from the British system, they
must be mutually interested in this.” Helped by the Canadian Club of
Halifax, he undertook to erect a memorial tower within the precincts of
the city, for the purpose of commemorating the origin here of
representative government, and all the benefits which have sprung from
it. A few months ago the Lieutenant-Governor of Nova Scotia laid the
foundation stone of this memorial tower on an ideal site in a pleasant
park of one hundred acres, given by Sir Sandford, on the one hundred and
fiftieth anniversary of the day upon which the first Provincial Assembly
was opened at Halifax. Every autonomous portion of the Empire will
contribute a commemorative tablet, and the interior of this lofty
granite campanile will be a museum bearing upon Colonial history.
I found Nova Scotia very much interested in the question of technical
education. Here, as elsewhere, people do not always grasp the details
and possibilities of their own trades and the old gibe at the fishermen,
“How many fins has a cod”? leaving him perplexed and gasping, has its
application to other callings as well.
The Nova Scoria Technical College, which was established by the
Provincial Legislature in 1906, is a college of applied science and
engineering, and the boast is made for it that it “stands at the head of
the first complete system of technical education to be established by
any Province or State on the continent.”
The college offers thorough courses in civil, electrical, mechanical,
and mining engineering. There is a full free scholarship of a value of
seventy-five dollars offered for each county in the province, except
Halifax and Cape Breton counties, which have two each. The opportunity
is now placed within the reach of every boy in the province who has the
ambition and talent to acquire a thorough high class training as an
engineer. I paid a visit to the college, which is perhaps the finest
building in Halifax, and had an interesting chat with the Principal, Mr.
Sexton, who is young, ardent, and competent.
“The college,” he told me, “aims to serve the industrial life of the
province in every possible way. Nova Scotians will be trained to develop
the great natural resources of the province, and to captain the Nova
Scotian industries of the future, industrial research will be carried on
in the laboratories of the college to solve the problems of the mines
and manufactures, and all assistance will be granted towards our
industries on a thoroughly scientific basis.”
The college is closely affiliated with Acadia, Dalhousie, King’s, Mt.
Allison, and St. Francis Xavier colleges. Students in engineering secure
there their preliminary two years’ general training in science,
mathematics, language, &c., and pursue their last two years of
specialised professional work at the Technical College.
The arrangement of dividing the work between the affiliated colleges and
the Technical College prevents unnecessary duplication of equipment and
expense, obviates educational waste, and is another tribute to the
genius of Nova Scotia in education.
The motto of the Technical College not only indicates its fundamental
aspiration, but is an interesting tribute to the new Gaelic spirit.
“Science for the common weal.”
“Ealin air son math coitcheann sluaidh.”
Under the Technical College is a whole system of secondary technical
schools in practically every industrial centre in Nova Scotia.
There are technical schools for coal miners, technical schools for
stationary engineers, technical schools for artisans, technical schools
for fishermen, and a Royal Commission on technical education was touring
the entire Province at the time of my visit.
When it was first built, the Halifax dry dock was the largest in North
America, and is to-day one of the largest commercial docks. It received
at the outset a substantial subsidy from the city of Halifax, and was
also allowed exemption from taxes for a period of fifteen years. But
despite this help, the dock gave little employment, the number of
vessels repaired being comparatively small. The Dominion Government at
last realising the importance of such docks as this, granted a bonus to
dry docks in various parts of Canada, the docks being, for the purposes
of the Act, divided into two classes. The largest docks—constituting the
first class—get a bonus of 32 per cent, for thirty-five years. But
Halifax does not benefit under this Act, for its dock is only 585 feet
long, instead of the 650 feet that is required. The boats in the
Canadian trade are fast becoming of greater length.
Canada was only in her infancy when the Halifax dock was built, and the
large increase in commerce is shown by the pay roll of the Dry Dock
Company, which last year paid out eighty thousand dollars in wages. But
the capacity of the dock will not now meet the requirements, and it is
felt that an extension to 800 feet will be necessary to take the whole
trade of the Atlantic coast. To do this, an immense coffer dam would
have to be built in order to extend the dock seawards, involving an
expenditure of about a million dollars and a closure of fourteen months,
with men working night and day.
But if Halifax is to
retain importance it should have a dock which can take and repair the
largest ship that sails in the Canadian trade. And this will be the more
necessary if Halifax is to be the headquarters for the fast boats of the
C.P.R., the Allan Line, the Grand Trunk Pacific, and the Canadian
Northern Railway.
On the whole a comfortable, tranquil, pleasant, city is Halifax,
somewhat qualified, I am inclined to add, by Grafton Street, a unique
thoroughfare where bedizened women, negroes, Indians, Chinese, Acadians,
and Irish congregate in a sort of extra-barrackian squalor. Such a
spectacle is familiar in garrison towns in the tropics, but here in
Canada its incongruity is almost disconcerting.
Apropos of negroes, one sees a great many of these in and about Halifax,
and in other parts of the Province.
They came hither, of course, in large numbers from the American Southern
States in the ante-bellum slavery days. Nova Scotia was then the
favourite asylum of coloured refugees, and their descendants I do not
think have degenerated. On the whole they form a dirty, good-humoured,
retrograde feature of the population. Eighty years ago Great Britain
awarded, on account of their ancestors, the refugees, a donation to
America of one million sterling, as compensation to the American
planters whose slaves were carried off in order to enjoy the comforts of
political freedom and physical starvation under the British flag in Nova
Scotia, an award long and properly ridiculed by its beneficiaries, the
Americans.
I suppose I need hardly mention that the Nova Scotian negroes are fully
as “religious” as their American brethren.
It was in 1796 that between five and six hundred Maroons were brought
here from Jamaica. In that island they had been wild and desperate
rebels. Descendants of the original African slaves, they had escaped and
made their home in the glens and caves of the mountains, sallying down
to rob and plunder the white settlements and deriding all attempts at
capture. At length a number of Cuban dogs were requisitioned to hunt
down these outlaw Maroons, who, panic-stricken at this, surrendered, and
were ordered to be carried to Nova Scotia. At Halifax they were lodged
in tents on the outskirts of the town, but were later transferred to
Preston, where the Jamaican Government granted them a sum of money
towards their support. The experience of a few winters showed how
utterly helpless they were, and the bulk of them were ordered off to
Sierra Leone.
Years ago I talked with an aged Sierra Leone darkey, who, though unable
to read or write, and had relapsed into many of the savage ways of his
ancestors, yet asked after Halifax with affection. “Me member him well,”
he said, “me born there. Me go back some day.” That was twenty years
ago, and my sable Haligonian has probably long been gathered to his
fathers. Albeit, not all the Maroons left for Africa. Some remained, and
their descendants occasionally muster in great force about the city,
especially on market days, and they may also be seen brooding about the
wharves. |