New Scotland has an
advantage which Old Scotland cannot boast. It is as carboniferous as
Wales, and is a country of mines and miners. My first introduction to
Nova Scotia’s coal was made at Stellarton, in what are called the Pictou
coalfields. Coal has been mined hereabouts for upwards of a century, and
one of the very earliest railways on the Continent was that built from
the Albion mine to Pictou Landing, six miles away. That was in 1836-39.
The promoters of this miniature line of rail showed considerable
prescience in building it of a with then considered unusual, but which
has since come to be the “standard gauge.” Stephenson’s rival,
Hackworth, built the first engine used thereupon for over forty years,
and now considered a great curiosity. It was shown at the World’s Fair,
Chicago, and later at St. Louis.
About 1B25 an English company received, under certain terms from the
Crown, the right of working mines and minerals in Nova Scotia, and this
company shortly thereafter commenced spirited operations both at Pictou
and at Sydney in Cape Breton, restricting themselves to coal-mines and
ironworks from imported material. Previously coal came chiefly from
surface pits, and was of inferior quality. “The principal shaft,” we
read in the original prospectus of the company, “has been sunk to the
depth of two hundred and fifty feet below the surface, and steam power
has been applied for the usual purposes of draining and of raising
minerals. The veins of coal laid open by this procedure are of a quality
much superior to those formerly discovered. The coal is overlaid by a
decayed blackish shale; it is of jet-black colour, and contains a large
proportion of bitumen. Excellent coke is made from it, and for the
furnace it is highly esteemed. The Cape Breton coal is preferred for
household use on account of its producing less of the white or brown
ashes than that of Pictou.”
The lease was granted to the company for sixty years to work all
minerals belonging to the Crown, save in such tracks as had already been
reserved to others. One of these was then worked by the Annapolis Iron
Company, which was in fact the only competitor of the General Mining
Association. It was then, eighty years ago, observed that the mining
industry was proving of greater apparent benefit to the valley of the
East River than upon Pictou Town. “Good roads, increase of settlement,
numerous waggons and horses where none were previously kept, and a
market well supplied where none formerly existed, are outward and
visible signs indicative of the neighbourhood of two hundred well-paid
beef-eating and porter-drinking operatives.”
The result being then foreshadowed, New Glasgow and Stellarton sprang
into being formidable rivals to Pictou, which, from its marine
situation, has been almost sidetracked by the railway. Other mines
flourish in these parts, such as the Drummond and Acadia Collieries in
Westville, and the Vale Colliery at Thorburn. But the character of the
mines is the same here on this side of the Atlantic as that which
depressed the soul of John Ruskin and gladdened the heart of Samuel
Smiles.
Stay! I think this statement required some qualification. It would be
manifestly unfair not to take notice of the system here inaugurated by
which so many of the miners—nearly all the married ones—own their own
homes. And there is even an effort, and by the miners themselves, that
these homes shall be tasteful within and without, and that each shall
have his garden. Nothing has ever struck me so forcibly when
perambulating the mining districts of the Black Country of Wales as the
indifference with which men, immured for at least a third of their lives
in the darksome bowels of the earth, regard the amenities of the home
and its surroundings of lawn and flower and vine. More passionately
because of their long deprivation would one expect them to cling to the
superterrene light and colour of life, and the res pulchra demi. Far
otherwise is it, and all the more refreshing to see here a brawny
Cornishman hurrying from the pit, and after washing the grime from his
face and hands, employ the remaining hour of daylight in robing his bit
of turf and hoeing his patch of flower garden. Will a time come, we
wonder, when no human occupation shall be too strenuous, too sordid, for
a man to spend his leisured hours in decency and calm. No vain visions
have I of pitmen and navvies reading Tennyson in velvet smoking jackets
and slippers, or pit foremen in dress clothes sipping port wine; but I
do look forward confidently to the time, in England, when a man may,
without remark, boast the domestic virtues and enjoy the higher domestic
comfort, even though he engage in an occupation in which for so many
hours a day the wearing of a white shirt, or of any shirt at all, is
totally dispensed with. Some steps towards the realisation of this I
witnessed with my own eyes at New Glasgow, where a man who had been
broiling half-naked before a fiery furnace all day, was at twilight
seated in cool, clean raiment, in his own little parlour (very
tastefully furnished, too), playing one of Sousa’s marches on a pianola!
A thriving town is New Glasgow, and very beautiful when viewed from the
other side of the East River. Here are coal-mines, iron and steel works,
shipbuilding yards, glassworks, and other industries. Here, two miles
from the heart of the town, :s the headquarters of the Nova Scotia Steel
and Iron Company, the pioneer steelworks in Canada, with open-hearth
converters, the latest equipped rolling mills, steel hammers, &c.,
altogether employing 800 men. On the way thither I passed a cemetery
filled with the tombs of the early settlers, nearly all Highland names,
many h filing from Old Glasgow, who would probably be very much
astonished and highly gratified to-day at the prosperity and size of the
town they founded.
Mr. Cantley, the able manager, told me something about the operation of
the works for the first three months of 1910. Increases had been made in
practically every line of work in connection with the company, referring
by this to the coal mined, the coal shipped and outputs in the mills and
forges. The increase in the output of ingots from 17,508 tons for the
first quarter of the year 1909, to 20,372 tons for the corresponding
period of 1910, or an increase of practically 19 per cent.; an increase
in the amount of coal mined of 8 per cent., and of coal shipped 20 per
cent. Increases were also recorded in the forge department, steel
department, and in fact in practically every department; in addition to
that, the most important feature was that the average nett prices
obtained from steel sales for 1910 showed an increase of 2.01 dollars
per ton over the corresponding period of 1909,
As to the steel tonnage now on the books of the company, it amounted to
about 15,000 tons, which was all he cared to see on the order sheets of
the company for the present until prices had improved.
The population of New Glasgow is about 6000 souls, and an electric
tramway connects the town with Stellarton and Westville. The islands
around the town are particularly fine. From Fraser’s Mountain, an
eminence 350 feet high, one may form an excellent idea of the lie of the
country round about Pictou and Pictou Islands, the Strait of Canso as
far as Cape St. George, the far distant hills of Inverness, even the
extremity of Prince Edward Island. To the southward the eye meets the
fertile land dotted with churches and settlements, stretching thirty
miles away to the mountains of Antigonish. In the foreground courses
tortuously the glistening East River on its way to Pictou and
Northumberland Strait.
The town of Pictou is situate upon the north side of a capacious harbour,
into which three rivers empty, the harbour’s mouth being three miles
from the town. It is certainly very much in its disfavour that in winter
the basin is closed by ice and is therefore inaccessible between
December and April. Pictou was once the second town in the Province,
to-day it has been left far behind; yet it enjoys a peculiar old-world
character of its own, and is the most Scottish town in all New Scotland.
In this district the French had made certain settlements before the
Peace of 1763. On the conquest of New France these were deserted, and
their farms were again overgrown with forest. In 1765 one Doctor
Wearherspoon became the leading spirit of the Philadelphia Company, and,
obtaining an extensive grant in the Pictou district, sent hither a
number of Maryland families. By way of bounty each of these received a
farm-lot, and a supply of provisions.
Following these came thirty families from the Scottish Highlands, who
were landed here in the good ship Hector, late in 1773, without
sufficient food to carry them through the winter, with the natural
result that they nearly starved, many making their way across the forest
primeval to the Basin of Minas for assistance. But the settlement
struggled on; it was later joined by further families from Dumfries, and
gained a great addition to its numbers in 1784, after the American
Revolution, by the immigration of many disbanded troopers, who, however,
being rather wild and dissolute, greatly shocked the simple-minded,
God-fearing pioneers. Not until 1786 did the first pastor, Dr. M'Gregor,
arrive to administer to the flock and to preach the Gospel in Gaelic. In
the decade following several other ministers arrived at Pictou and the
district put forth a great store of grain and godliness. More shiploads
of Highlanders landed in Pictou Harbour, and an Academy was founded,
which flourishes to this day. But the corner-stone of the first house in
Pictou town was not laid until 1789. Once started the growth to a
village and then to a town was rapid. It became the resort of coasting
vessels from all parts of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the quantity of
oil and fish brought thither annually being large, the exports to the
West Indies increased proportionately. More than a century ago at least
100 ships left Pictou loaded with timber for Great Britain, worth,
together with other exports, £100.000. Houses of well-to-do merchants
went up—houses of stone —which are as staunch to-day as the day they
were built. “The air of the place,” wrote a traveller nearly ninety
years ago, “strikes a stranger’s eye as peculiarly Scotch. Keen-looking
fellows in bob-tailed coats, a la Joseph, of many colours, stand in
knots about the streets discussing in broad Scotch or pure Gaelic the
.passing topics of the day; while in the distance, a long scarlet robe
floating gaudily in the wind, as if in mockery of the sedate air of the
student who bears it, carries us back to the classic prey nets of
Aberdeen or Glasgow. The Academy, to which these students to the number
of about fifteen belong, is an ordinary wooden building neatly painted
outside, but not yet finished within, and contains nothing remarkable if
we except the learned professor and his little museum consisting
(chiefly) of native animals.”
At the northern and eastern parts of the town are suburban residences
with spacious grounds enclosed with hedges of English hawthorn, from
whence a commanding view can be had of the Straits of Northumberland and
the blue waves of the great St. Lawrence Gulf.
On clear days the shores of Prince Edward’s Island are distinctly
visible; and out beyond the harbour light, Cape St. George and the
distant outline of Cape Breton’s rocky coast can be seen jutting out
into the wide Atlantic.
Many years ago a dreadful catastrophe happened to a small mail steamer,
the Fairy Queen, plying between Pictou and Prince Edward Island. Through
the captain’s carelessness she sprang a leak and went to the bottom. The
captain and the crew succeeded in escaping to Pictou in the boats, which
were spacious enough to have held all on board. On landing they related
a tale of the disaster, believing that no human voice would ever reveal
the true story of their cowardice and cruelty. It chanced, however, that
although many perished, including a promising British officer and five
young ladies, one of whom was bound for England to be married, a few
passengers floated off on the upper deck and ultimately, after many
hardships, reached land in safety. Along the coast they struggled to
Pictou, there to raise a voice from the dead to strike terror and
remorse into the hearts of the cowardly captain and crew. The captain
was arrested for manslaughter, but, although the popular wrath was
great, managed to escape the punishment he merited.
As time wore on in Pictou the Highland bonnet, slouching like a
night-cap on the heads of the first generation of settlers, disappeared,
to give place to native straw in summer and fur in winter. But the
kilts, banned in the old land, sprang up at clan gatherings, and the
bagpipes and the Highland ballads and Highland spirit are in vogue to
this day.
The morning was warm and balmy as I strode along the harbour front, past
the cottages and villas of wood and stone, to a point of land called the
Battery at Pictou. Several mounted cannon were pointing seaward, and a
weatherbeaten man, with his back towards me, shaded his eyes as he gazed
intently in the same direction. When he became aware of my presence, he
turned and bade me good morning. “Waiting for my molasses ship from
Jamaica,’ he said, jerking his thumb outward. “I thought I saw her in
the offing, but I guess I was mistaken.”
We fell to talking about fish, and molasses, and mining. He had been
interested in a mine in Newfoundland, and knew something of the ways of
Yankee company promoters. He had speculated in many things, but found
West Indian produce safest.
“Do you see that building across their—with the tall chimney and the
wharves in front of it, and the rails running down to the wharves?”
I said I did.
“Would it surprise you if you found that chimney built of rubble, with
no outlet top or bottom?”
I said it would surprise me very much indeed.
“I suppose it would astonish you also to know that only one ship had
ever been at that wharf, and no engine or truck on that railway, and no
men ever at work in that swelter?” When I had duly satisfied my
companion that these things stood in need of some explanation, he
volunteered one.
“That yonder’s the relics of the Pictou Copper and General Mining
Company, Limited—capital, Lord knows how many thousands of pounds! When
I was in England they told me that for these cinematograph exhibitions
they get up sample fires, imitation explosions, intentional railway
collisions, and collapse old buildings merely on purpose to photograph
’em. Well, that there’s a dummy copper-mine, got up on purpose to
photograph, and I’m bound to say the photograph looked darn well in the
prospectus. There it all was, and nobody who saw it could get away from
it— engine puffing away on the rails, hired for a day from the
Inter-Colonial Railway; smoke pouring out of the chimney —they had lit a
bushel of brown paper on top; schooner at the wharf, also hired for the
occasion—and dang me, sir, there never was a more realistic thing! The
capital was raised in no time. People here in Pictou, who weren't in the
secret, expected all manner of things. Then the Boston promoters lit out
for home, and they ain’t been seen or heard of since. There’s their
dummy establishment—I guess you could buy it for a hundred pounds—and
there are a lot of people somewhere, in some corner of the earth, who,
when they hear the very name Pictou, turn pale and grind their teeth.”
I could not refrain from inquiring whether this was an incident of
frequent occurrence.
“I know where it’s happened before and since. Lord bless you, these here
Maritime Provinces, including Gaspe, are a perfect hunting ground for
that sort of thing. Now, down at Chignecto . . .”
But it is needless to retail all the ensuing conversation, or the
instances with which my friend on the Battery at Pictou illustrated it.
It suffices to say that every wild-cat scheme engineered by astute and
unprincipled financiers from across the border, damages to the extent of
its operation, multiplied by ten, the good name and the prospects of New
Scotland. All should be alert to inquire into the bona fides of all
schemes ostensibly directed to the exploiting of their locality, because
the failure of such is certain to redound to that locality’s, nay, the
whole Province’s, disadvantage.
The best house in Pictou—perhaps the best-built private one in New
Scotland—is Norway House, which, together with 200 acres of farm land
adjoining, is the property of Lord Strathcona. Seventy or eighty years
ago it was built of stone brought from Scotland, and, as I mention
elsewhere, is an excellent specimen of the kind of house that is popular
with Canadian insurance companies. I only wish that Lord Strathcona
could be induced to work this farm, instead of allowing it to lie
fallow, if only because it would in active able hands be an effective
advert sermon for the agricultural possibilities of this part of New
Scotland.
The town is the seat of Pictou Academy, which deserves a passing
mention. The academy was established for the purpose of affording to the
children of Dissenters, excluded from the honours of King’s College
(Windsor), those literary and scientific requirements which might
qualify them for the learned professions. The corporation consists of
twelve trustees, the choice for whom, in virtue of an annual Government
grant, has to be ratified by the governor. They are required to be
Presbyterians or members of the Anglican body. As, however, no religious
tests are required of the students, the academy is attended by youths of
all denominations. The curriculum is a sound one, and from the first
Pictou began to send forth what the Province sadly needed, a race of
qualified schoolmasters. Some very eminent Canadian scholars have been
educated at Pictou, including Professor Dawson and Principal Grant.
Forty-three miles by railway from Stellarton is Antigonish (accent,
please, on the last syllable). A century ago Antigonish was called
Dorchester, in honour of Sir Guy Carieton, first Lord Dorchester,
Governor of Canada. But the district round about had the Indian name
long before that. The first white inhabitants were a few Acadian
families at Pomquet, Tracadie, and Au Bouche, whose descendants are
still to be found at St George’s Bay. Just after the American Revolution
a number of officers and men of the Nova Scotia Regiment, under
Lieutenant-Colonel Hierlihy and Major Monk, got grants of land here, and
immured themselves for several winters without roads of communication to
any other part of the Province. After a dozen seasons or so they were
joined by Scottish immigrants from the Isles and the Highlands. They
found the agricultural country far superior to any they had ever known,
and indeed one of the best in New Scotland. Upon the rearing and export
of horses, horned cattle and sheep, grain, butter, and pork, they
quickly prospered; and the production of shingles and stones, when the
large timber was exhausted, was carried on upon a large scale. The shire
town of Dorchester or Antigonish was described nearly a century ago as
“one of the prettiest villages in the eastern section of Nova Scotia,
and the neatness and simplicity of its appearance amply compensates for
the absence of bolder scenery.” Judging from that description, I do not
think Antigonish has greatly changed. My train brought me there about
midnight, and a buggy driven by the landlord himself brought me along a
wide street, with majestic elms, through whose dark foliage the moon
sent spangled rays of light, to a quaint little inn. It is true the
quaintness of the inn, architecturally speaking, hardly corresponded
with its name: the Queen Hotel (how they love these high-sounding
titles! I have a recollection of a certain Chateau Frontenac at
Rimouski, P.Q., where they gave me a single sheet to my bed), and the
quaintness was in directions rather disconcerting. For instance, when
morning came, I was suddenly aroused by the apparition of an uncouth
figure in my room. He was in the act of closing a closet door, from
which he had apparently just emerged. I sprang up. “What do you want?” I
demanded.
“Nothing,” returned the intruder calmly.
“But what are you doing in my room? I locked the door last night.”
“What am I doing in your room? How else do you think I am going to get
out of mine?” He jerked his thumb in the direction of the closet In an
aggrieved manner, as if I had meanly suggested his climbing out of the
window in order to pursue his daily avocations. All the same, I do not
think highly of these peculiar inn-keeping arrangements; nor do I hold
that the employment of the title of Majesty on a long sign-board can
altogether atone for their primitive simplicity.
Before I leave the inn at Antigonish I am tempted to recall another
trifling association. A traveller, commercial or otherwise, will have
noticed throughout Nova Scotia, as in the American States, that all
servants perform their functions, with rare exceptions, in a singular
spirit of protest, as if they were really not enjoying themselves in the
most becoming and most appropriate of all feminine relies, to wit, the
handmaiden of man. It is really most provoking of the dear creatures!
More especially is this uncomfortable spirit manifested towards
strangers. My belief is that a too profuse native chivalry is at the
bottom of it. You have noticed the scorn and independent air of the
British barmaid? her affability and condescension when addressed by her
familiars under the names of “Flossie,” “Beryl,” or “Sadie?” Well, then,
you have put your finger on that which vexes the traveller’s soul here.
Only please note that the British barmaid is a very superior being, and
the Nova Scotia hotel-waitress is, as a rule, a foolish, ignorant one.
Yet her resentment of strangers rightfully commanding her services is
the same.
She was rather a comely wench, was the handmaiden at Antigonish, but
sadly spoilt, and a shrewish wrinkle marred her brow. She showed her
sense of my coming down late to breakfast by conducting me to a seat
where a great draught blew.
“Ye’ll sit there,” she said.
“Oh no, thank you. I will sit here,” I rejoined pleasantly, taking a
seat by the wall. She paused in angry astonishment. A smile curled her
lip. “Oho,” she seemed to say to herself, “I’ll teach you, my fine
gentleman.” I ordered fish. “There’s no fish.” “Very well. I’ll have
eggs, boiled in the shell three and a-half minutes, dry toast and
coffee.” With a toss of her head the damsel slowly disappeared. In
something under twenty minutes she re-entered, bringing a tray upon
which reposed a large cup of weak tea, a plate of fried eggs, and some
very bilious-looking buttered toast. These having been noisily and
carelessly deposited before me, I turned over a fresh page of my
newspaper and observed nonchalantly, “Please remove all this stuff, will
you, and bring me what I ordered—boiled eggs, boiled for three and
a-half minutes in the shell, coffee, and some dry toast. Look sharp,
please.” She did look sharp—sharp and shrewish, yet with a something
almost of consternation withal. I met her glance with a smile. For ten
seconds we confronted one another—a ludicrous situation. Then, gathering
the breakfast back again upon the tray, the poor girl departed. When she
reappeared she was quite cheerful—the novelty of the experience had, it
seemed, taken her fancy. She waited upon me with alacrity. So far from
diminishing I multiplied my wants, preferring them with punctilious
courtesy. We parted friends, and at luncheon she greeted me with smiles.
It is a great pity that the tendency to spoil and pamper girls in menial
situations, especially when they are pretty, is not confined to Nova
Scotia. It does not make them any the happier, but is, on the contrary,
productive of a good deal of unhappiness and discontent. A little less
familiarity on the part of those served and a little more attention to
business on the part of those serving would be far better. Less than a
century ago one could chuck the inn chambermaid under the chin and call
her “ my dear” without loss of dignity, eliciting only a prim and
grateful curtesy. It is different now. C--
An attractive little town is Antigonish. The houses, built on low
ground, are shaded by trees, while the hills rise on all hands. Here is
the seat of the Roman Catholic Bishop of Antigonish, St. Ninian’s
Cathedral, and St. Francis Xavier College. Chiefly of Highland
extraction is the community—the names of the chief clans so abound that
in the case of the Macdonalds and Frasers it is usual to mention the
Christian names or initials to indicate certain leading individuals. One
hears of “E. M.,” and “J. S.,” and “D. C.” in common conversation.
Gaelic here is still spoken, especially amongst the older folk, and for
the benefit of these latter sermons are occasionally preached in the
cathedral; which building is of stone and capable of seating 1200
persons. As I recall the taming of the shrewish maidservant at
Antigonish I must not omit mention of my encounter with one whom I was
informed was the Episcopal body-servant and factotum. A more
astonishingly grotesque individual I have never set eyes upon in my
life. Somewhat portly, you only saw fragments of his puffy, white face,
owing to a thick growth of beard, which left a space of about two inches
between it and a pair of bushy eyebrows. Beard and eyebrows had been
red, but were now dyed a startling blue-black, which looked purple in
the sunlight. His aspect was truly farouche.
“Is his lordship at home?”
“Ah!”
“Will you take him my card?”
“Eh?”
The factotum was engaged in climbing into a buggy. He stared for a
second at the proffered card, crossed himself, gathered up his reins,
said “Gaw!” to his steed and drove away, leaving me standing there. I
watched him until he had turned the corner, thinking what a weird and
beautiful pirate this beady-eyed purple-wiskered joker would have made —
what a loss to the comic opera stage.
“Eh, ye’ll no see his reverence the day,” murmured an old woman in my
ear, and so I came away.
The College of Saint Francis Xaver is an educational institution, of
which not only Antigonish, but also the whole eastern section of Nova
Scotia is greatly proud. Students come hither from nearly all parts of
Canada and America. The number in attendance is increasing from year to
year, and the accommodation is becoming taxed to such an extent that a
further addition to the present commodious building has been found
necessary. The number of students at present is over one hundred and
fifty. Besides the College, and to some extent affiliated with it, is
Mount St. Bernard’s Seminary, attended by about seventy young ladies
from many of the counties in the Province, and from beyond it. Although
both are Roman Catholic, I found that students of all denominations are
welcomed, and no better illustration of the broad-mindedness that
prevails is the fact that at least two of the Professors at the College
are Protestants. Besides these two institutions of higher education,
Antigonish boasts two well equipped “separate schools” of three
departments, each conducted by competent and experienced teachers.
It was prize-giving day amongst the young lady pupils at the seminary,
and I had an opportunity of seeing “sweet girl graduates” from all parts
of Nova Scotia, and also from the other provinces. I cannot say that
they were very beautiful or very graceful, but I am sure that they were
very good. And amongst themselves they were very merry, and spoke of
their failures in this or that “exam” with resignation. Many of these
girls, I was told, were destined to be teachers.
A Catholic newspaper is published at Antigonish called The Casket. I
enjoyed a chat with the editor, a quiet, enlightened man, who aims at
“restraint and accuracy,” a journalistic motto which one wishes were
only more prevalent. The Casket is an excellent little paper, and a
relief from the journalistic horrors elsewhere.
Eight miles from Antigonish is the mouth of the harbour, with a wide
sandy beach, much used for bathing, and a number of Antigonians have
summer cottages there. But the gem of the district is Lochaber Lake, on
the road to Sherbrooke, distant some dozen miles. The lake is five miles
in length, very narrow, and a pretty road runs along the shore the whole
distance. On the whole the roads are capital hereabouts, and the
landscape scenery well worth seeing.
The banks on either side of this lake rise from it abruptly to a
considerable height, but without rocky precipices. The water is as clear
as a spring, and very deep. It is the last body of water in the district
to freeze, and even in January frequently shows a ripple over miles of
its limpid surface. How often has the Highland emigrant, home-sick for
the heather, sat by its banks and dreamt of the old land and the old
faces, ere he or she set out for the new land to see “Lochaber no more”!
Which reminds me that while at Pictou I was taken to see the shanty of
an old Highland woman, once well known to travellers by coach, Nancy
Stuart of the Mountain. Many stories are still told of Nancy, her sons
and her dogs—as well as the “Oiche Whaith Chuibh. Eran-naehd luibh” with
which she parted from any who had ever been in the Highlands.
The views throughout the whole of this part of the peninsula are superb.
Standing on the top of Sugar-Loaf Mountain, which is close to Antigonish,
one obtains a spectacle that is well worth climbing to gain. Gaspereau
Lake, also close at hand, is situate 500 feet above sea-level, and is a
great resort for wild geese and ducks. Here is a famous centre for
partridge shooting. These birds, nobody’s preserves, are often seen in
dense coveys close to the railway.
If we follow the line of this lake—the St. Mary’s road, we cut right
across the eastern end of the peninsula, and come to Sherbrooke, a few
miles from the Atlantic, at the mouth of the St. Mary’s River.
Sherbrooke is the headquarters of a busy fishing community, and there is
some gold mining carried on hereabouts.
Journeying eastward twenty miles by rail from Antigonish we reach
Tracadie, close to a good harbour, opening into St. George’s Bay. There
is an Indian reserve in the neighbourhood, but the place is famous for
its monastery of Our Lady of Petit Clanvaux, which was founded in 1820.
The members of the community are Cistercian Monks, commonly called
Trappists, from their obedience to the rule of a Trappe, the founder of
the order. The life of a Trappist is consecrated to prayer, manual
labour, and silence. The ordinary hour of rising is two o’clock in the
morning, except on Sundays and feast days, when the hour is half-past
one. The remainder of the morning, or rather the night, is spent in
chanting the offices of the church, in meditation, and other religious
duties. The fast is broken by a light meal at 7.30 in the summer, and
11.30 in the winter, the latter season being kept as a Lent. The Monks
never eat meat, fish, or eggs, and it is only of recent years that
butter has been allowed in the preparation of the vegetable food. The
discipline is strict in all other respects, for the Trappist life is the
most rigorous of all the monastic orders. Conversation, when necessary,
is carried on by signs, except in addressing the abbot.
Besides their own manual labour, the monks furnish considerable
employment to others who assist them in their work, and they are
excellent farmers. In their religious duties they seek to make
reparation for the sins of the outside world. Despite what seems a
severe life they enjoy excellent health, and as a rule live to a great
age. All their life, however, is a preparation for death. The burial
place is close to the monastery, where it is continually in sight. When
a monk dies, he is buried in his habit, uncoffined; and when the grave
is filled in another grave is opened to remind the survivors that one of
them must be its tenant in his appointed time.
There is also a convert of Sisters of Charity at Tiacadie. |