For
a hundred years after tile Hudson's Pay Company had received its charter
from Charles II, it was content to transact its business at seven or
eight forts along the coast of the bay and a few posts not far inland;
but it neglected the vast interior and the enormous quantity of furs to
be obtained there. It was far otherwise with the enterprising traders
and the adventurous
coureurs des hois of Quebec; for they had
penetrated into the most distant parts of the territory claimed by the
English company and were drawing away a large part of its trade.
Between the years 1659 and 1663 Radisson and Groseilliers had found
their way west to the border of the prairies and north to Hudson Bay:
and when the chartered companies and the government of Canada compelled
these daring men to discontinue their trading trips into the uncharted
wilderness, their trails were taken up by others. We know that Duluth
had a fort on the Nepigon Lake in 1684, and it is quite likely that he
reached the site of the city which bears his name about the same time.
We are told that de Noyen, a Canadian from Three Rivers, spent the
winter of 1688 with Indians on an island in the Lake of the Woods and
that he left a detailed description of the route to it. De la Noue, who
had charge of a fort at Kaministiquia from 1717 to 1721, suggested that
a fort should be built on Rainy Lake. Such facts make it more than
probable that some of these early traders found their way to the prairie
country west of the posts which they occupied; and we know that a French
half-breed, named Joseph la France, went from Lake Superior to Hudson
Bay between the years 1739 and 1742, following the route which nature
seems to have designed for canoemen. He traversed that chain of rivers
and small lakes which connects Lake Superior with Rainy Lake, crossed
it, and descended Rainy River to the Lake of tha Woods; traversed this
beautiful sheet of water and went down the Winnipeg River; paddled down
the length of Lake Winnipeg; followed the connected waters which lead
from it to the Hayes River; and then followed that stream to the hay.
But there was no organized attempt to explore the great plains of the
west until it was made by a high-minded, intrepid citizen of Three
Rivers, whose name is one of the most illustrious in Canadian history.
The
small town of Three Rivers in Quebec is connected with the early history
of Manitoba and the west in many ways. It was the home of Groseilliers
and Radisson, the adventurers who were probably the first white men to
find their way from the Great Lakes, to the western plains and the
northern sea; it was the home of Duluth and De Noyen; and it was the
birth-place of one greater than any of these. In the latter part of the
seventeenth century the governor of this little walled town beside the
St. Lawrence was Rene Gaulthier de Varennes. and on the 17th of
November, 1685, a son was born to him who received the name of Pierre.
The l>oy received such education as could be obtained in the colony at
the time, and when only twelve .years of age became, a cadet in the
army. In 1701 he was a member of the force which de Rouville led on a
winter raid' against the New England settlements, and in the next year
he went with Subercase to attack St. John's, Newfoundland. In 1706 he
received an ensign's commission in a Brittany regiment then serving in
Planders and fought with it for three years in the "War of the Spanish
Succession. At Malqaquot he distinguished himself by many acts of
bravery, was wounded nine times, and left for dead on the field. He
recovered, however, and soon after quit the service to return to Canada
and engage in the fur trade. In a year or two he was married to the
daughter of a Canadian gentleman named Dandonneau, and made his home on
the island of Dupas in the St. Lawrence not far from Three. Rivers. Pour
sons were born to him, and all of them were to play a part in the
history of the west.
For
several years the father managed a trading post on the St. Maurice River
called La Gabelle; but in 1726 he was sent to take charge of a fort on
Lake Nepigon, where Duluth had been stationed forty-four years earlier,
and where Radisson had traded thirty years before that. This Pierre
Gaulthier de la Verendrye, to give him his full title, was a man of high
purpose, and for years he had brooded over the possibility of finding
that elusive water route to the western sea, which hail lured so many
dauntless explorers into the West and north; and perhaps the hope of a
chain* to engage in the search led him west to the Nepigon.
Among the Indians who came west to trade at la Verendrye's fort was a
man named Ochagach, who lived on the Kaministiquia about a hundred miles
away. He gave the commandant of the post very interesting accounts of a
journey which he had once made to the west, of a great lake there, and
of a large river flowing out of it to the westward. He said that he had
paddled down this river until he reached a point where the tide rose and
fell, and that he had been told of a great salt lake or sea into which
it emptied. He had also heard that large ships came from some land
across this sea, and that on its shores were strange men who wore armor
and rode upon horses.
To
la Verendrye it seemed that, if these tales were true, the sea could be
no other than the long-sought western ocean and that if it were so near,
there should be little difficulty in finding a route to it. Inspired
with the desire to discover it. la Verendrye went to the governor of
Canada, the Marquis de Beau-harnois. in 1730 and outlined a plan for an
exploring expedition into the far west. He showed a rough map of the
route to be taken, which Ochagach had drawn on birch bark. His arguments
were seconded by the reports made by Father Gonor, who had established a
mission among the Sioux in 1727. FinallV la Verendrye was permitted to
leave his fort in order to take an expedition into the interior, but the
government could give him no money for the purpose. However, it gave him
a monopoly of the fur trade in the regions he might explore, and this
concession induced the merchants of Montreal to form a company to
promote the enterprise. La Verendrye put all his own money into it
Early in the summer of 1731 la Verendrye set out. He was accompanied by
three of his sons, Jean Baptiste, Pierre, and Francois, and by his
nephew, Christopher Dufrost de la Jemerayeir and Father Mesaiger joined
them on the way. They followed the usual route hy the Ottawa, Lake
Nipissing, French River. Lake Huron, and Lake Superior to the Grand
Portage of the Pigeon River. The long journey which they had made and
the unknown difficulties before them so discouraged some of la
Verendrye's men that they would not go further; he therefore camped for
the winter at Kaministiquia with these men and sent Jemeraye and one of
his sons forward with the remainder of the party. They penetrated the
forest for a hundred leagues, and having reached the outlet of Rainy
Lake, they built Fort St. Pierre near the present town of Fort Francis
and wintered there.
In
May, 1732, Jemeraye went back to Grand Portage with a good supply of
furs, and la Verendrye sent them to Michilimackmac in charge of one of
his sons; then he took the rest of his men westward. They set out on
June 8 and reached Fort St. Pierre on July 11. After a short stay at the
fort, la Verendrye and his men descended the Rainy River, accompanied by
about fifty Indian canoes. Some time was spent in exploring the
island-studded Lake of the "Woods, and then a site for Fort St. Charles
was selected about three miles up a stream near the Northwest Angle. The
fort was from an inclosure made with four rows of posts, from twelve to
fifteen feet in height, in the form of an oblong square, within which
are a few rough cabins constructed of logs and clay, and covered with
bark. Here the party spent the winter.
In
the spring of 1733 Jemeraye was sent back to Montreal to make a report
to the merchants who had fitted out the expedition and to secure
supplies for the coming year. Father Mesaiger accompanied him. La
Verendrye spent a part of the summer exploring the Winnipeg River,
preparatory to building a fort on it, if Jemeraye's success in Montreal
would warrant the expense. But the merchants there gave the expedition
rather meagre support, and the government still declined to aid it with
money; so a scanty supply of goods reached Fort St. Charles in the
autumn and only a small stock of furs could be purchased from the
Indians. In the spring of 1734 la Verendrye decided that he must go to
Montreal himself, if his enterprise was to be saved from ruin. Sending
his eldest son, Jean-Baptiste, to build Fort Maurepas at the mouth of
the Winnipeg River, and leaving Fort St. Charles in charge of Jemeraye,
he set out on his long journey and reached Montreal on the 25th of
August.
La
Verendrye was more than a mere trader. His was the vision of the
explorer and the imperialist. lie saw the vast western plains added to
the empire of France, its great rivers as her highways, and, beyond them
all. the western sea over which her ships would carry the commerce of
the Indies; but to his Montreal partners he must talk of the profits to
be made from the. trade in furs, else the money and goods to continue
his explorations would not be secured. His arguments prevailed, and he
received orders to continue his work and returned to the west with new
supplies.
Leaving Montreal on June fi, 1735, la Verendrye reached Fort St. Charles
on September 6. He found the place in sore straits. Provisions were
exhausted, and the men had taken to hunting to supply themselves with
food. He spent the winter there, doing the best he could under the
circumstances, but unable to extend explorations into the west. In the
spring the party was without goods or provisions. La Verendrye sent two
of his sons to Fort Maurepas, and on June -4 they returned with sad
news, for la Jemeraye was dead, worn out with the labors ami hardships
which he had undergone. Ilis death was a great blow to la Verendrye, for
no one could have given him more loyal and enthusiastic support than his
nephew had done.
Another blow soon followed. It was necessary to send a party to Michili
mackinac to hurry forward supplies, if the explorers were to be saved
from starvation during the approaching winter. Led by Jean-Baptiste and
accompanied by Father Aulneau, the party set out on June 8 in three
canoes. That night they camped on an island about twenty miles from Fort
St. Charles. In the early morning a band of Sioux, intent on avenging an
injury done them by the Chippewas, crept up to the French party and
poured a shower of arrows upon it. The leader, the priest, and others
fell, and the remainder seized their guns and attempted to defend
themselves in a retreat to their canoes. Bui the Indians were too strong
for them, and those who were not shot down were driven into the lake and
drowned.
La
Verendrye. remained at Fort St. Charles during the autumn and winter,
but when spring came, he had not even the necessities of life, and was
compelled to go to Montreal again. The journey took most of the summer,
and he spent the winter in Canada, On June 18, 1738, he turned his face
westward once more, carry ing what was necessary to continue his
enterprise, and reached Fort, St. Charles on September 2. During his
absence his two sons had managed affairs there and had maintained very
friendly relations with the natives.
The
autumn was unusually line, and la Verendrye determined to push his
explorations further into the west. Leaving his second son, Pierre, in
charge of Fort St. Charles, and taking the third, Francois, and the
fourth, Louis, who had just joined the expedition as its cartographer,
he went down the "Winnipeg River to Fort Maurepas, paused there a day,
and crossed Lake "Winnipeg to the mouth of the Red River. He ascended
the river to its junction with the Assiniboine, and it was probably on
September 26, 1738, that the intrepid French explorer landed on the site
of the future capital of Manitoba to select a place for a trading post.
Two bands of Crees were camped at the junction of the rivers, and after
a conference with their chiefs, la Verendrye secured their promise to
trade with the French rather than the English. When these Crees learned
that la Verendrye intended to ascend the Assiniboine, they attempted to
dissuade him. "You will find yourself among the Assiniboines," said one
of the chiefs, "and they are a useless people, without intelligence, who
do not hunt the beaver, and clothe themselves only in the skins of
buffalo. They are a good-for nothing lot of rascals, and might do you
harm."
La
Verendrye went forward, and on October 3 he landed and began the
construction of a fort in which to pass the winter. In his journal he
says, "My fourth fort is Fort de la Reine, on the north bank of the
Assiniboine River;" and he adds, "From Fort de la Reine there is a nine
mile portage leading to Lac des Prairies." Lac des Prairies is now Lake
Manitoba and Fort de la Reine, named in honor of the queen of France,
stood on or close to the present site of Portage la Prairie. Before the
fort was completed a band of Assiniboines came to visit la Verendrye,
who found them not less ready to trade than the Crees. The knives, awls,
and other steel tools which he gave them were very highly prized.
As
soon as Port de la Reine had been started, la Verendrye. sent some of
his men under de Louviere hack to the mouth of the Assiniboine to build
a fort there to retain the trade of the Crees in the neighborhood. The
post was erected 011 the south bank of the Assiniboine close to its
mouth and was named Port Rouge, an appellation which survives in the
name still given to that portion of the city of "Winnipeg. Port Rouge
was abandoned after a year or two, as it was found more convenient to
conduct trade with the Crees from Port Maurepas. It seems to have been
more than sixty years before another trading post was established on the
site of the present commercial centre of Manitoba.
For
a long time the French explorer had been receiving from the natives who
came to trade with him accounts of a great Indian nation that occupied
the country through which the upper Missouri flows. These Indians were
called the Mandans, and la Verendrye was very anxious to visit them; so,
although it. was late in the autumn when Fort de la Reine was completed,
he started on the long journey to the Missouri country. He took one of
his sons, de la Marque, who had come west to serve as his lieutenant,
twenty Frenchmen, and four Indian guides. They had travelled a day or
two when they received an urgent invitation to visit a band of
Assiniboines some distance of? the line of march. Unwilling to lose so
much time but anxious to secure the friendship of the Indians, la
Verendrye finally consented to go to their village. The party was well
received, the usual presents were made, and the Indians promised to
trade with the French.
The
next evidence of the Indian's friendship proved rather embarrassing to
la Verendrye, for he was assured that the band would accompany him to
the country of the Mandans and that word of their coming bad already
been sent forward. He could not prevent this migration, and so the whole
band, about six hundred in number, began the march next morning.
Progress was slow, because the Indians often halted to hunt buffaloes,
and it was late in November before la Verendrye met the first party of
Mandans and exchanged presents with them in token of friendship. After
some, delay he went forward to one of their fortified villages and was
well received. These people did not appreciate the visit of such a large
band of Assiniboines, and contrived to scare them back to their own
country by stories of the approach of a large force of hostile Sioux.
The Assiniboines managed to carry off a large part of the presents which
la Verendrye had brought for the Mandans, and so honors might be
considered even between the unwilling hosts and their self-invited
guests.
La
Verendrye noted many interesting facts about the Mandans and their
customs, and he tried to obtain from them information about the country
west of theirs and the possibility of crossing it to the western ocean;
but he was unable to gain much knowledge about these matters, as his
interpreter had deserted him. So he left two Frenchmen to learn the
Mandan language and gain all the information possible; then, with the
rest of his men, he set out on the return journey. The mid-winter trip
proved very trying, and Fort de la Reine was not reached until the 11th
of February, 1739.
In
May la Verendrye sent his men from Fort de la Reine to Grand Portage to
bring up the season's supply of goods. Nothing had been sent to that
point, however, and the men went on to Miehilimackinac. No goods had
been sent there for them, and their furs were seized for an alleged debt
due by la Verendrye.
Under the circumstances his men carried a very small amount of supplies
when they came hack to Fort de la Reine in October. During the summer
Indians from the northern shore of Lake Manitoba had asked that trading
posts be established in their district, and two of his sons had been
sent to find suitable sites; but when the father found that he would
have no goods to stock these posts, he was obliged to postpone their
erection.
He
spent the winter of 1739 in his fort on the Assiniboine, and m the
spring he set out once more for Montreal, hoping to induce the merchants
to forward the supplies which he needed so much. He had sunk his own
fortune <n the wester . enterprise, had spent nine strenuous years in
the work, and had lost a son and a nephew in its prosecution: and now he
found himself involved in lawsuits over his management of the business.
He had the sympathy and aid of the governor, however, and finally
succeeded in getting a new stock of goods. In the spring of 1741 he left
Montreal, accompanied by Father Coquart. La Verendrye reached Fort de la
Reine on October 13th, but the^priest did not arrive at that point until
1743.
The
two men whom la Verendrye had left with the Mandans returned to Fort de
la Reine late in the autumn if 1739 with tales of a race of Indians
living by a western sea, among whom bearded white men dwelt. They had
heard these stories from a band of western Indians which had visited the
Mandans and from which guides to the sea might be obtained. Pierre had
gone to the Mandans in the summer of 1740, hoping to secure these
guides; but he was not successful, and returned the next summer.
The
arrival of his stores enabled la Verendrye to carry out his plan of
building new forts in the north, and in the autumn of 1741 he sent his
son to build a fort on the shore of Lake Manitoba and another on Cedar
Lake near the mouth of the Saskatchewan. The former was called Fort
Dauphin, the latter Fort Bourbon. La Verendrye himself says, "From Fort
de la Reine there is a nine mile portage to the northeast, reaching to
the Lake of the Prairies. The south side of the lake is followed to the
outlet of a river that comes from the great prairies, at the foot of
which is Fort Dauphin, the fifth establishment, built at the request of
the prairie Crees and the canoe Assiniboines. There is a trail from
there to Fort Bourbon, which is the sixth establishment. But the road is
not advantageous. The custom is, on leaving Fort Maurepas, to pass along
the north of Lake Winnipigon to its first strait, where a crossing is
made to the south, from island to island, then the land is coasted along
to the river aux
Biches, where Fort Bourbon stands near a lake
of the same name. From Fort Bourbon to the Paskoyac (Pasquia) river is
thirty leagues." A fort was built on the Paskoyac not long after, and
one of la Verendrye's sons followed the Saskatchewan River to its forks.
A small post was built on the Red River not far from the present town of
Selkirk about this time, but it was soon abandoned.
In
the summer of 1742 la Verendrye sent his sons, Pierre and Francois, with
two men from Fort de la Reine, to make another visit to the Mandans.
They set out on April 29. and on reaching the Missouri, crossed it and
kept on to the southwest until they; found themselves close to the
Bighorn Mountains. They were most anxious to cross the range, believing
that the sea which they sought must lie closc beyond; but the Indian
tribes in that region were at war and the Frenchmen were compelled to
turn back. They spent some time in exploring the country now included in
the states of Wyoming and Montana, taking possession of it for France.
At length they turned their steps eastward and reached Fort de la Reine
on July 2, 1741
In
spite of the noble achievements of la Verendrye and his sons their
enemies in Canada made the prosecution of their discoveries more and
more difficult. Pierre was recalled from the west in 1745 and given a
commission in the army under Legardeur de Saint-Pierre; Francois seems
to have been recalled to serve under the same officer; and in 1746 la
Verendrye himself was summoned to Montreal to answer charges made
against him. The brave and energetic man, who had spent fifteen years of
his life in unselfish service to his country, was deprived of his
position, and de Noyelles was appointed to direct the work of
exploration and trade, no one of the Verendrye family being left to take
part in it except young Louis who had charge of Fort St. Charles. De
Noyelles does not seem to have gone further west than Kaministiquia and
to have given little attention to the business committed to his charge.
The forts fell into ruins, and the Indians began to take their furs to
the English posts in the far north.
In
1747 la Verendrye's son, Francois, seems to have returned to his work in
the west. lie repaired Fort Maurepas and Fort de la Reine, and in 1749
he began preparations to ascend the Saskatchewan to its sources. The
Indians assured him that it rose in very lofty mountains, and that
beyond them was a great lake whose water could not be drunk; but it was
necessary to await supplies from Montreal before making the ascent of
the river. The year 1749 seemed to promise a change in the fortunes of
la Verendrye, for his sons had received promotions, he himself had been
decorated with the cross of St. Louis, and had been appointed once more
to conduct the exploration of the west. But in the midst of preparation
for resuming his work death overtook him, and he passed away on December
6, 1749.
It
would have been wise and just to give the position made vacant by the
death of the great explorer to his soil Francois, who had spent nearly
twenty years in exploring the west; but it went to de Saint-Pierre
instead. The young Chevalier de la Verendrye generously offered to serve
under this man, but was not allowed to do so. De Saint-Pierre seems to
have owed his appointment to the notorious intendant, Bigot, and to have
been more anxious to secure profit out of the fur trade for himself, his
patron, and la Jonquiere, the governor, than to extend la Verendrye's
explorations. lie started for the west on June 5, 1750, taking M. de
Niverville with him as his lieutenant. The party reached Fort St.
1'ierre on September 29, and ma
King short stays there and at Fort St.
Charles, went down to Fort Maurepas. There the party was divided, some
of the men going to the Saskatchewan with de Niverville, the others
going to Fort de la Reine with de Saint-Pierre.
It
was too late in the autumn to traverse Lake Winnipeg in canoes, and de
Niverville's men were obliged to go by land to Fort Bourbon and then to
follow the river bank up to Fort Paskoyac. There was no provision in the
fort, and they were on the verge of starvation most of the winter. In
the spring de Niverville received orders to follow the Saskatchewan to
its sources and to build a fort at the foot of the mountains. He was too
ill to go himself, but he sent ten men to carry out the undertaking.
They were successful, and during the summer they constructed Fort la
Jonquiere, which is supposed to have stood near the present city of
Calgary. De Niverville remained at Fort Paskoyac until 1758, when it was
abandoned and he returned to Canada.
De
Saint-Pierre went from Fort Maurepas to Fort de la Reine. It had not
been occupied after the sons of la Verendrye left it and was without
provisions. De Saint-Pierre's party passed a hard winter there, and in
the spring he went to Grand Portage for supplies. He returned in
October, and five weeks later he set out for Fort Paskoyac but did not
reach it. Food was scarce that winter, and the nineteen men under de
Saint-Pierre, as well as the Indians in the vicinity of the fort, were
often menaced by starvation. The starving Indians became desperate, and
one day in February, when fourteen of the Frenchmen were out hunting,
the natives made an attempt to seize the fort.
De
Saint-Pierre tells the story thus: "On the 22nd of February, about nine
in the forenoon, I was in the fort with five Frenchmen. I bad sent the
rest of my men to get provisions, as I had been without any for some
days. I was quiet in my room, when two hundred armed Assiniboines came
into my Fort. These Indians were, in a moment, scattered through all the
houses; several, without arms, came into my place, the others remained
in the Fort. My men came to notify me of the appearance of the Indians.
I hastened to them. I told them plainly that they were very daring to
come in a crowd, thus armed, into my Fort. One of them made answer, in
the Cree language, that they had come to smoke. I told them that such
was not the manner to do things and that they would have to retire at
once. I thought that the firmness with which I had spoken to them had
intimidated them, especially as 1 had put four of the most insolent
Indians out, without saying a word. I felt at once at home; but, in a
moment, a soldier came to inform me that the guard-room was full of
Indians, and that they had taken possession of the arms. 1 hastened to
the guard-room. I asked those Indians, through my Cree interpreter, what
were their intentions, and, at the same time, I prepared with my little
troop for battle. My interpreter, who deceived me, said that the Indians
had no had intentions, and, at the same moment, an Assiniboine orator,
who had unceasingly delivered beautiful harangues, told my interpreter
that, in spite of him, the tribe wanted to pillage and kill me. No
sooner had I learned their determination than I forgot about the
necessity of taking their arms. I seized hold of a burning brand. I
burst in the door of the powder magazine; I smashed two barrels of
powder over which I waved my burning torch, making it be told in a
positive tone to the Indians, that I would not perish by their hands and
that in dying I would have the glory of making them suffer the same
fate. The Indians saw more of my torch than they heard of my words. They
all flew in haste to the gate of the Fort, which they fairly shook in
their hurry. I soon dropped my torch and was not. slow in closing the
gate of my Fort. The peril which I had happily escaped, by thus placing
myself in danger of destruction, caused ne a great anxiety concerning
the fourteen men whom I had sent after food. I kept a good watch on my
bastions; I saw no more of the enemy, and, in the evening, my fourteen
men arrived without having met with any misadventure."
The
remainder of the winter passed quietly, and in the spring the Indians
came hack with protestations of friendship, in which de Saint-Pierre had
little confidence. However, when he and his men set out for Grand
Portage on July 24th, he left Fort de la Reine in charge of the Indians,
who promised to guard it until his return. Four days after the
commandant's departure the savages burned his fort as the most effective
means of keeping intruders out of it.
On
September 29, as he was coming down the "Winnipeg River on his return
trip, de Saint-Pierre learned of the destruction of Fort de la Reine;
and so he seems to have taken his goods and provisions to Fort Rouge and
to have spent the winter there. He was recalled to Canada in 1753, and
de Niverville went with him. Governor Duquesne sent out the Chevalier de
la Corne to take charge of the trading posts in the west, and by his
orders a fort was erected on the Saskatchewan, a little below the forks,
during 1756. This post, Fort la Corne, was the last fort built by the
French in the west. In a short time it and all the forts built under la
Verendrye's direction were abandoned and soon fell into ruins. |