THE present County of
Yarmouth, consisting of the Township of Yarmouth and the District of
Argyle, has seen several changes as regards its limits. In the year 1761
by order of Council, Yarmouth, Barrington and Liverpool Townships were
erected into the County of Queens. In 1784, by the same authority,
Yarmouth, Barrington and Shelburne Townships were erected into that of
Shelburne; and lastly, in 1836, the present Township of Yarmouth and
district of Argyle were erected into the County of Yarmouth. All that is
here said, refers to the County as it is now limited. And, in the
prosecution of this purpose, our first duty is to observe the position,
boundaries, and physical character of the Country whose history we are
tracing.
By reference to the Map1 it will be readily seen that the general form
of the County is that of a triangle, of which the Eastern boundary is
the Township of Barrington in the County of Shelburne, and the Northern
boundary the Township of Clare in the County of Digby: whilst the
South-western shore is washed by the waters of the Atlantic and the. Bay
of Fundy. All the Islands lying inside of a continuation of the County
limits, of which the outermost is the Seal Island commonly called the
elbow of the Bay of Fundy, are within the County. Those Islands are very
numerous. Several of them are settled; and some of them have no small
claim to be Galled beautiful. In Lobster Bay alone, there are said to be
the usual traditional 365. The largest in the County are the Seal
Island; the great Tusket Island and Surrette’s Island, lying at the
mouth of the Tusket River; Morris’ Island, in the. Ahuptic, or Argyle
harbour; Tinkham’s, Clement’s, and Crawley’s Island, in the Chebogue
harbour; and Bunker’s Island— which however is more properly a
peninsula, in the Yarmouth harbour.
The face of the whole County is greatly diversified; there being a happy
blending of wood and water, hill and dale. There are nearly one hundred
lakes, upwards of ninety of which have been fully explored; many of them
are very beautiful, reminding one who has seen both, of well known
English scenes.
The Rivers, which all rise in a North-easterly direction, run
sufficiently parallel to divide the County into tolerably distinct
Riverbeds. The most Easterly, as well as the smallest, is the Pubnico
River; a corruption of the Indian “Bogbumkook,” Proceeding in a westerly
direction, the next is the Argyle or Abuptic— (Indian “Pobbobteek.”)
The Tusket River is worthy of the Tourist’s time; for it is as varied
and picturesque in its surroundings, as it is well known for its Trout,
Salmon and Alewive fisheries. Any one in search of the beautiful in
Nature, who overlooks or despises the Tusket, with its pleasing falls
and continuous, yet ever varying chain of lakes, will be very likely to
go further and fare worse. Lake Vaughan, which lies above the first
falls, and where before 1755 was. a. flourishing French Acadian
settlement, is a beautiful sheet, of water; and the Carleton system of
lakes, viz.: Carle-ton, Sloan’s, Ogden’s and Parr’s, can not be
surpassed in Nova Scotia for general beauty.
The Salmon River (the Indian “Ponamagottij," or “place of frost fish,”)
lying still further to the westward, rises in the County of Digby; and,
like the rivers already,, and those yet to be named, is a pleasing
diversity of Lake and Stream. The Chebogue River (called by some Indians
Itebogue “Spring Water”—and by others Teceboke “Cold Water”) is smaller
than those yet referred to; but its harbour, dotted with islands and
fringed with good, marsh lands, has the honour of having sheltered the
first settlers, both French and English, who ventured on this, shore.
The Yar, commonly called the Yarmouth, on which stands the County town,
is somewhat larger than the Chebogue. The harbour is naturally poor; but
what, has been denied by nature, has been, and is still being;
supplemented by industry and perseverance. At its mouth stands the
Lighthouse erected in 1840; at the narrows, there has been recently
erected a Beacon, which was first lighted on the night of February 13,
1874: and a Breakwater, which with more or less success depending on the
stability of the work, prevents the harbour from being rendered
comparatively useless by the action of the sea, throwing the “ Bar” into
the channel.
Still further to the North-westward, is the Chegoggih (the Indian
Isegdgin or “Place for weirs”), which runs through a thriving and well
settled District. The last stream we are to mention, is the Beaver
River, in the meandering course of which are the Beaver, Darling’s,
Coggen’s, and Killani’s Lakes. Lake George, if we except the not very
well known Great Pubnico Lake, is the largest in the County; and the
second largest—Rossignol in Queens claiming the first place — in the
Province.
The frequent falls on the rivers indicate considerable variations in the
land level. But it would scarcely be true to say that the County is
hilly; still less true that there are any Mountain ranges. There are
high land ridges, on which are the best timber trees in the County,
running approximately North and South, parallel with the several
riverbeds. With regard to the
QUALITY OF THE SOIL, it must be confessed that there are other more
fertile districts in Nova Scotia. In the opinion of competent judges a
comparatively small proportion of the land is capable of profitable
cultivation, although the question of profit is evidently one intimately
bound up with the amount of capital and skill brought to bear on the
land. In this direction, the Agricultural Societies have done, and are
still doing, a most excellent work. Even within the last ten years the
minds of those most nearly concerned, have undergone a beneficial change
on the important branches of drainage, manuring, improved implements,
and the raising of good stock. In addition to the timber lands referred
to, there are considerable tracts of fair marsh lands in the County,
about 500 acres of which are dyked, producing heavy crops of hay.
Excepting small patches at Eel Brook and the Wedge, the only dyked lands
in the County are the Salt Pond and the Chegoggin Marsh.
The Salt Pond before 1799 was simply flatshut in that year it was dyked
by twenty-five proprietors at an expense of £270. It contains 165 acres,
and was originally divided into eleven shares. A well authenticated
story tells how, after this work had been done, and the fine grass was
waving where before there had been but water, that an Indian who had
been away in the Eastern part of the Province, came here, as had been
his wont, to shoot ducks. His exclamation when he saw it, illustrates, I
think, the relation of the races — “What, white man turn water into
ground!”
The Chegoggin MMksh which contains 320 acres had been dyked early in the
history of the settlement, possibly in Acadian times; but the work had
been rendered practically useless, by the enormous beach of pebbles that
the westerly winter gales threw in upon the Sluices. The river being
thus shut up, forced a new opening for itself; and, in 1810, it was
again closed by a good dyke, with substantial Sluices; and the abatteau
was protected by a long pier running out seaward. From
A GEOLOGICAL POINT OF VIEW, there is but little to be said which may not
be equally truly spoken of the whole of the western shore. The
prevailing rock is clay slate, with a general South-westerly strike.
Here and there, as for instance at Little River, Plymouth and Argyle,
obtrusive boulders of Granite are to be met with : and, I believe, all
the Islands have a granite base. Throughout the whole County, quartz
veins may be traced; and in some places, as at Cranberry Head, in such
quantities as to have given reasonable hopes of a remunerative yield to
the miner. The Yarmouth gold mining and quartz crushing company have
opened a mine at that place on a lode averaging eighteen inches. Gold
has been found there, and has been made into “bricks.” The only question
is whether the gold produced does not cost, as much as, or more than, it
is worth. But we are by no means rich in minerals when compared with
other parts of Nova Scotia. Plumbago is found on the Tusket Wedge. It is
turned up when plowing; and, although small in quantity, it is said to
be excellent in quality. No endeavour, however, has been made to
ascertain the extent of the deposit. A peculiar purple sand is found in
abundance on the eastern shore of Lake George. It is of the colour of
the amethyst, and like it, it is silicious.
Hitherto no traces have been found, worth mentioning, of fossil remains.
Infusorial earth has been found in pretty large quantities in Ohio. When
quite dry, it looks and feels like magnesia, and can scarcely be
distinguished from it. When wet or damp, it feels more like dough or wet
clay. It is composed of silicious shells of very varied forms, so small
as to be seen only through a powerful microscope, and so fine as not to
scratch delicately polished silver.
With regard to the
CLIMATE of this County, it is but just to say that although humid and
very variable, it is described by the most competent medical
authoritities as healthy above the average. We are indeed at the extreme
end of the Province; but we are not extreme in temperature: for the
mercury seldom falls below zero in the winter, or rises above 80° during
the summer. Every few years (as in 1865-6 and 1873-4,) the mercury may
descend to five or six below; but the mean annual temperature, day and
night, is 48°. The most noticeable feature in the Climate is the
liability to sudden changes; twenty-four hours sometimes sufficing to
produce a difference in the thermometer of 40 degrees. With regard to
the
NATURAL HISTORY of Yarmouth there is little to be said in addition to
the fact that whatever applies to the Province generally, applies
equally to this County particularly. I believe I am correct in saying
that there is no plant nor insect, no bird nor animal found here, that
is not found elsewhere. There is, as might reasonably have been
expected, a large proportion and variety of sea fowl, and a small
proportion and limited variety of forest birds: although it is a curious
fact, that the English woodcock is rapidly increasing. Our insular
position, together with our numerous inland lakes, adequately account
for those facts. Civilization has well nigh banished several valuable
species from the County. The days are gone when a local merchant can
send ninety-five moose skins to the Boston market, as one did a hundred
years ago. |